Frank's 1/2A Taylorcraft build- stick build

Started by Frank v B, March 23, 2018, 10:44:03 PM

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Andy Hoffer


Frank v B

Andy,

re: "I can help you"

I am beyond help!  ... and loving it. 8)

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

#17
Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

#18
Details....

Photo 00- One weakness in the design is the key for the fin that slots into the top of the fuselage.  The wood grain runs parallel to the top of the fuselage.  Wood always splits along the grain, not across it*.  The bottom of the rudder has the same problem.  The tail wheel attaches to it.  A quick solution: drill 1/16" diameter holes in the wood and shove a round toothpick with glue into the wood.  Cut off the excess once dry.

Photo 01- line the fuse on the inside with 1/16 balsa.  I substituted light balsa for the heavier stuff that came with the kit.

Frank

* unless you drill the plane into the ground.  Then balsa will break every which way, regardless of the grain direction.  Andy can teach this course entitled: "Aiding and abetting gravity.  How to vapourize balsa" :)  Andy is off for a few days because he is trying to feed matzah balls to the Easter Bunny.  ;)
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

#19
Joining the fuse sides...

Photo 02- The main former glued in place.  Supported by a triangle for squareness.  Let it dry.
Photo 03 - joining the 2 fuse halves.  Note: I do the two main formers first.  They are at the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing.  By not joining the nose or the tail end, there is no stress on the fuselage.  It can be built true and square.  Once dry, then the tail is drawn together and glued, then the nose around the firewall (still to be installed).
photo 04- Trueing the fuse.  A triangle is put up to the fuselage at the back to make sure the two sides are true to each other.  You need to start square to end square.

Yes, I have switched to 5 minute epoxy so I can build during household chores.  Will be back in an hour or two.

The words "5 minute epoxy" and "in an hour or two" should make flames come out of Bruce's nostrils. 8)


Frank

ps: Andy.  Just in case you are analyzing the items in the background and periphery... in photo 02 just above the orange Home Depot contractor's pencil is a label reading "Venco".  All Dutchmen know that is salted liquorice and is one of the essential food groups.
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

joining the tail end of the fuselage:

Main steps
- mark the centreline at the base of the two main formers
- draw a datum line on your building board.
- pin the fuselage middle to the datum line
- draw the tail end together with glue and clamps.  Make sure the joint is over the datum line.
- check that the front former is on the datum line (it is off the building board).

Photo 05- fuse placed over the datum line.  You can see the magic marker lines on the bottom of the two formers.

Photo 06- tail end glued and clamped over the datum line

Photo 07- top view of the cabin at the wing location.

Back to doing chores. :(

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

piker

Looking great, Frank!  This is going to be a pretty little plane.

Thanks for the detailed description. 

Frank v B

#22
Thanks Piker. Your Tricks with Sticks (Cadet Senior) inspired me to build it.

Have been back at it a few times:

- filled in the cross braces after the fuselage halves were joined.
- installed a landing gear plate.  The original drawings had it sewn to the main Former at the windshield but I wanted this left open for radio access and ventilation.
- installed the firewall.  The original design was for an .049.  Am putting in a Supertigre 370 (over-powered).  The firewall had to move forward an inch.  Made the firewall by taking one of the two lite ply ones supplied and epoxying 1/32 plywood to both sides.  Incredibly strong.
- Decided to make the fuse top front from 1/16" balsa.  The large block in the photo was for this purpose.  Heavy wood.  No thanks.  Need this for a battery hatch.

Photo 09- shows the fuse from the front.  The motor is beside the fuse (a bell motor).
Photo 10- shows the fuse behind the wing area.  The balsa block was the one supplied for the top ahead of the windshield.  The green tape was to hold the back from pulling apart when the nose was pulled into the firewall.
Photo 11- shows the new plywood landing gear plate with balsa braces.

...letting it dry overnight.  The wing is next.

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

Andy Hoffer

Quote from: Frank v B on March 30, 2018, 10:35:41 PM
Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank

Actually, the real benefit @Frank v B 's of out-of-focus photos is that they obscure the zillion pin-hole perforations which allow the plane to dismember itself neatly in a controlled fashion on impact, regardless of the aircraft orientation (which could well be anything). This allows for multiple quick and easy reconstructions of the same hull.  In addition, Frank buys his 5-minute epoxy in the gallon size, proof of his comprehensive system of total quality management for his fleet.  There is method...... 8)

Andy

Andy Hoffer

Quote from: Frank v B on March 31, 2018, 03:30:27 PM
Joining the fuse sides...

Frank

ps: Andy.  Just in case you are analyzing the items in the background and periphery... in photo 02 just above the orange Home Depot contractor's pencil is a label reading "Venco".  All Dutchmen know that is salted liquorice and is one of the essential food groups.

Actually it was the renderings by Salvador Dali and Picasso on your work surface that caught my interest!

Andy

Frank v B

Andy,
re: Dali and Picasso

Warped!*

Frank

* nothing to do with wash-in or wash-out.
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

#26
Didn't have enough time to start the wings so sheeted the bottom of the fuse and installed the motor. 

In the photo of the motor you can see the punch marks on the main former where they wanted you to drill holes and sew the landing gear onto the former.

Also, found a couple of interesting colour combos for the finished look.

Just in case you are wondering why the green tape on to motor lead.  I write the max amps, max cell count and suggested prop size on each motor I have so I don't have to look for specs.  Especially important on Turnigy motors since they are only available for a year and then change their numbering and specs.

Frank

Unfortunately the red one is on skis.  Don't get your hopes up Andy.  I still do not like planes on skis. :D
"Never trade luck for skill"

Andy Hoffer

Quote from: Frank v B on April 01, 2018, 11:00:20 AM
Didn't have enough time to start the wings so sheeted the bottom of the fuse and installed the motor. 

In the photo of the motor you can see the punch marks on the main former where they wanted you to drill holes and sew the landing gear onto the former.

Also, found a couple of interesting colour combos for the finished look.

Just in case you are wondering why the green tape on to motor lead.  I write the max amps, max cell count and suggested prop size on each motor I have so I don't have to look for specs.  Especially important on Turnigy motors since they are only available for a year and then change their numbering and specs.

Frank

Unfortunately the red one is on skis.  Don't get your hopes up Andy.  I still do not like planes on skis. :D

There is absolutely no reason why you should choose the hands down best colour combination and equipment. 

Andy

Andy Hoffer

Quote from: Andy Hoffer on March 31, 2018, 11:07:34 PM
Quote from: Frank v B on March 30, 2018, 10:35:41 PM
Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank


Actually, the real benefit @Frank v B 's of out-of-focus photos is that they obscure the zillion pin-hole perforations which allow the plane to dismember itself neatly in a controlled fashion on impact, regardless of the aircraft orientation (which could well be anything). This allows for multiple quick and easy reconstructions of the same hull.  In addition, Frank buys his 5-minute epoxy in the gallon size, proof of his comprehensive system of total quality management for his fleet.  There is method...... 8)

Andy

Hmmm....

Hey @bweaver

Do you think @Frank v B understands this post?...............

Andy

Frank v B

Andy,

I fully understand.  But re: your "Method" comment..... there is no method.  Just madness!! 8)

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"