CL-415 group-build thread

Started by Michael, October 13, 2018, 04:37:51 PM

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electroflyer

    Hey Guys,

   Some excellent ideas being tossed out. I like Michael's carbon rod attachment and yes I am going to have some sort of restraining system to hopefully keep the floats secured to the aircraft even when they break free.

  I have constructed the two half frames. I did mine using 1/4" stock instead of the 3/16" square so it required a little change here or there. But the exterior outline is correct. Tomorrow I will start to join the two halves together and possibly start the keel assembly.

Rob Pike: question did you go with a scale keel or a more subdued design? the drawing shows both but has cuts for a flatter shape. What would you recommend?

  Glenn
 

piker

My CL-215 is loosely based on the Steve Gray plans from MAN many years ago.  The V on the bottom is flatter than scale, I believe, and I've always felt it made for easier take-off from water.  If you like, I can measure the V angle tonight, for reference...

Robert

Michael

Robert ...

Is your model's fuselage sheeted/fiberglassed/painted, or sheeted and open structure and film covered?
Michael

electroflyer

   Hi Robert,

  Yes, if you could measure that would be great. I do not think I will change the Hull shape as the pieces are cit and will be ready to install. It was more of a curiosity to see how a deeper "V" would affect the water performance. I am not looking to make water flight more difficult, just fun.
  In the meantime, two dimensional structures are now being joined to make a 3 dimensional shape and I stuck the tail in position for reference.
  This is a very fun build, especially since the small parts are mostly assembled and ready for final sanding.

  Here is what it looks like today.
 

piker

#49
Very nice, guys!

I just measured my old CL-215 hull and it has quite a shallow V.  147 total degrees just ahead of the step and the V increases gradually toward the nose where it gets steeper more rapidly as it turns up to the nose block. 

Michael, my fuselage is built old school with 1/8" balsa sizes over formers that I built from 1/8"x3/4" balsa to create the outer former shape.  The top sheeting is 1/16" balsa, the sheeting behind the step is 1/16" balsa.  The sheeting ahead of the step if 1/8" balsa, but when I refurbished the framework to recover the plane, I added 1/32 ply to the underside ahead of the step as the hull had taken a beating over the years.  My fuselage does not have a framed under structure, or any open areas.

Edit.  I realized I didn't finish the answer to Michael.  I didn't glass or paint mine.  It's simply covered over the balsa sheeting.

Robert

octagon

Well, work continues. I am quite enjoying the build as it allows improvisation. I have finished all the small subsections that have to be built and am thinking I will start the wing next, and leave my favourite  part, the fuse, to the last. I am wavering between Glenns idea of sheeting the entire structure and Michaels idea of a super light model. I am concerned that trying to cover all the surfaces with monocote would be a vexing job, and so am seriously things of sheeting and fibreglassing everything, and then being able to paint the whole thing. I guess I will have to make the decision soon. I have been using a wood stripper to turn 1/4 and 1/8 by 3 inches balsa into strips, and have saved a lot of money on wood (good if I decide to sheet everything).
What could possibly go wrong?

bweaver

It is great to watch the construction, consider your considerations and see the differences each of you are applying to your own aircraft.  Carry on...

(At the rate you are going, you will be done before the end of winter, then onto another project.)

piker

We have three fast and motivated builders egging each other on.  They'll probably be done before the end of December!!!

Michael

Opinions/advice needed.

The plans call for a pair of 860 kv motors capable of turning 11/7 props.

I already have 2 E-Flite 890 kv "450" motors that can turn (I've used these contra rotating) 9/3 3-blade props.

I am OK with these, or should I go to bigger motors?
Michael

octagon

Michael,
I asked Rob Pike and he uses eflite 32s on 4 s. Then again the Piker flies his water bomber like a stunt plane, LOL.
What could possibly go wrong?

electroflyer

  I plan on using a couple of Turnigy motors. Both are 790 Kv motors.

  Here is the planking going on to the bottom of the fuselage.

 

electroflyer

   Hi Michael,

  After checking the spec's on your motor and the fact that people claim to have used larger props, I would suggest that your motor choice would be fine, especially since you are doing a very light structure. The Eflite site does not report maximum amps for the motor, but if you experiment with two blade props I am sure you will find a size that gives best performance and will lead you to find a suitable scale three blade. I am not sure what the pitch of your three blade props are. If it is the 3" pitch I see in your last post, I would think that would be good for trolling...lol :D
 

Michael

Oops, should have said 9/7.

Anyway, I do plan on keeping it light.
Michael

electroflyer

  Here is the current state of my fuselage. The Keel section is covered and the right side of the fuselage is also sheeted.
  I require the left side to remain off until my elevator and rudder connections are set up.

  Glenn
 

piker