A customer gave me a kit that he bought over 20 years ago when he visited Japan. He said he would love to see it fly and would like to be there for the maiden flight. Tough assignment... but since the customer is always right I have to build it.
Please note the beautiful custom spun aluminum cowl.
It appears to be about 35 inch span. Trust me, it will be overpowered.
Marutaka apparently was bought up by Royal quite a ways back.
Will start it when the Chica is ready for covering. Gotta keep making balsa dust!!
Frank
This Kit looks good ;D
Can't wait to see the process of building,
then to see it in the air, :o
Aluminum cowling sounds interesting for CG :-\
BJ,
re: "Aluminum cowling sounds interesting for CG :-\ "
The cowl is probably a dollhouse cooking pan with the bottom cut out. :D
Frank
Just had to confirm that the plane was 4 channel... with ailerons. Pulled out the plans. Yep! Good.... but then Cadez will probably pressure me into adding flaps.
May just add flaps for the fun of it.
Holy sh... I thought this was going to be easy. This plane will be real work. It is built like a .60 size airplane with liteply formers, stringers and sheeted fuse. No instructions. Just two parts drawings.
I thought this customer was being nice to me giving me this kit. He was probably trying to punish me.
Followed the first 7 steps of a build project per Bruce's PT 19 thread:
Photo 1 Clean the workbench off and find the project
Photo 2 Found the project
Photo 3 Make sure it is the right project
Photo 4 and 5 Make sure all the parts are there and identify the kit's inspection certificate so you know who to blame when you can't find a part
Photo 6 Get prepared to lay out plans on work bench surface and to protect them from messy over-glue. I use waxed paper.
Photo 7 Determine what part of the plane to build first - I'm going to start with the fuselage. Review and consider plan instructions.
I may modify this kit significantly. Thinner sheeting, reduce the amount of sheeting, adding stringers. Adds a whole new dimension to Bruce's comment "Review and consider plan instructions. (Unlike Frank, I will likely follow them.)"
Stay tuned. Check my pulse periodically. ;D If you notice a change in me at Wednesday's meeting, sign me up for Anger Management courses. 8)
Frank
Re: Anger Management:
How would you feel if these were the only instructions you had??
Photo 1) The extent of the construction instructions. That's it. That's all. A more detailed construction summary would be "glue all the wood pieces together in the correct place, sand, cover, install the electronics, go fly. Thank you for buying Marutaka" ;D
Photo 2) the fuse pieces. All are liteply. Two formers have already broken. I re-inforced them with balsa.
ARRGGGHHH! ::)
Frank
Excellent! Another photo session in the making! 8)
Andy
Frank,
What a cool little kit, I love the spun cowl!
Always a drag when the little pieces break, but once joined together it will all be good...if not, I can lend you my brick..LOL ;D
Glenn,
Thanks... but I will probably need the rest of your driveway as well. ;D
Frank
...well... every journey starts with a single step.
Started with the bulkheads/firewall. Required a fair amount of digging since the cut-outs for the stringers were semi-circular and the longerons were square. The old square peg and round hole trick.
Photo 3- the fuse as it stands after the first attempt. Life was made much easier when I cut the two balsa cross pieces to keep the firewall sides up against the formers. These were just force-fit. The stringers were rubber banded together at the back so the Formers can be inserted once this assembly dries.
Photo 4- close-up of the glued nose area. The balsa spreaders are clearly visible.
Photo 5- close-up of Former 7 showing the rounded slots. All of them need to be made square.
Gotta put the project aside so I can prep for tomorrow's Pilots Meeting.
Frank
Back to building after last night's Pilots Meeting
Photo 6 - had to put re-inforcements on all the formers after two broke. Also, when inserting them between the two stringers, they would bend so I put 3/16 square pieces across them.
Photo 7- The formers were all glued in place and held with rubber bands while the glue dried. No attempt was made to cut them to length. Easier to do when the glue is dry.
Photo 8- Photo from the top.
Photo 9- more stringers in place, ends trimmed.
Photo 10- The two wing saddle pieces. Marked Port and Starboard.
Photo 11- Held under the tap to wet them. Then slipped a wet paper towel in between them so more moisture soaks up the exterior side to make them bend. They will bend away from the wettest side. They get glued in once the main fuselage is dry.
Frank
Photo 12- side view of the middle fuselage sheeting. Both port and starboard were done at the same time. Only the bottom of the sheet was glued. It is pinned to dry. This way when I go to bend the wood, the bottom will stay in place. I will let this dry overnight and then pull the top part of the sheeting in place. I do both sides at the same time so the fuse stays straight.
Photo 13- view from the top. It shows that the top of the sheeting is not attached to anything. Also showing is the outline of the top front hatch for battery and plug access (behind the firewall). Also the motor mount box has the top and bottom closed for strength. Also put a floor under the battery hatch so the battery stays in one place and the Velcro can be stuck to a flat surface.
Power: have decided to power it with an E-Flite 450 purchased at last Wednesday's Club Auction. This motor is longer than the second option which is a Supertigre .10 out runner. The .10 is quite a bit shorter and easy to install. Will make the final motor decision prior to the maiden flight once I have a chance to weigh the final model. It may have the flight qualities of an aerodynamic brick. ;D
Yes, am planning on a 3 bladed prop for scale-like looks... also bought at the Club Swap Meet.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on January 11, 2018, 09:23:27 PM
Back to building after last night's Pilots Meeting
Photo 6 - had to put re-inforcements on all the formers after two broke. Also, when inserting them between the two stringers, they would bend so I put 3/16 square pieces across them.
Photo 7- The formers were all glued in place and held with rubber bands while the glue dried. No attempt was made to cut them to length. Easier to do when the glue is dry.
Photo 8- Photo from the top.
Photo 9- more stringers in place, ends trimmed.
Photo 10- The two wing saddle pieces. Marked Port and Starboard.
Photo 11- Held under the tap to wet them. Then slipped a wet paper towel in between them so more moisture soaks up the exterior side to make them bend. They will bend away from the wettest side. They get glued in once the main fuselage is dry.
Frank
Frank, If I had not known before I could tell you are a sailor. Port and Starboard wing sadles, LOL!
Rob,
re:"Port and Starboard wing sadles, LOL!"
Left and right is a direction. Port and Starboard is an orientation... relative to the pointy end of a boat or an airplane.
Sorry to be picky and detailed. Heck, Andy must be starting to rub off on me. Oh no! ;D
Frank
Back to work,
Photo 14- side view of the fuse with the midsection, turtle deck and half of the top sheeting done. The plane looks like a pin cushion!
The small structure under the plane is the cut-out section for the battery hatch on the top deck. Once the top sheeting has dried in front of the cockpit, I will cover the hatch.
Photo 15- Top view of the pin cushion. I could not bend the wood over the top stringer as per the plans because balsa does not bend that much in such a short distance. I glued a piece of wood (approx 1/4"sq) onto the top stringer and butted the sheeting up to its two sides. Once dry, I will plane/sand it does and round it off nicely.
Note: in the sheeting and stick work- no attempt was made to make ends line up. All pieces were left long, even in the cockpit area. Once everything is in place, it will be trimmed properly and symmetrically.
Tomorrow- the hatch and bottom sheeting.
Frank
Just did the hatch.
Photo 16- shows the hatch in place. The wood was cut to size over the removable hatch. The hatch frame was pinned in the correct orientation and height. Waxed paper was slipped into the hatch ends (front and back) so glue would not get onto the fixed fuselage parts, just the hatch structure. The wood was soaked with water to make it bendable and 5 minute epoxy applied, more pins to hold it in place.
Photo 17- Shows the top of the turtle deck detail. The sheeting was supposed to go over the top and meet flat at a seam on top of the small stringer. I glued the 1/4" square piece on top, cut the fuse sides so they meet the sides of the stringer and glued them in place. The balsa sticks out on top of the sheeting but it will be made level when sanded and nicely rounded. This is the part I referred to in photo 15. You can also see in this photo why I did this. The starboard side sheeting (left side in the photo) split and had to be glued. That's when... and why... I added the 1/4" square piece on top.
Quote from: Frank v B on January 13, 2018, 08:31:41 PM
Rob,
re:"Port and Starboard wing sadles, LOL!"
Left and right is a direction. Port and Starboard is an orientation... relative to the pointy end of a boat or an airplane.
Sorry to be picky and detailed. Heck, Andy must be starting to rub off on me. Oh no! ;D
Frank
Now I am confused. aren't most planes pointy on both ends? :)
Rob,
re: "Now I am confused. aren't most planes pointy on both ends? :)"
I know you sometimes fly backwards when you crash. Do you also walk backwards? You clearly have orientation issues.;) Everything has a leading edge and a trailing edge.
Start walking backwards faster! ;D
Your buddy,
Frank
Keep working Frank!!
Photo 18- Popped the battery hatch. Only one corner was stuck and had to cut it free but everything else was protected by the waxed paper.
Photo 19- what the hatch looks like when it is closed.
Photo 20- Attached the bottom sheeting. Like the top, I glued one edge first and let it dry, then later I will wet the balsa to make it curl, then trim and glue it.
Photo 21- Looking down the belly*. I glued a wider stick onto the bottom (keel) so the sheeting can be cut up to it and then sanded. It will stop the splitting problem.
Frank
* no Rob, not an official term but refers to "the belly of the beast". 8)
Wow, that is coming very nicely. Interesting construction with the skeleton being constructed first and then sheeted. As I will show on the Mosquito build, Half crutches are constructed, sheeted then joined together and hopefully straight.
Looking good!
Thanks Glenn.
The fuse in this kit can best be described as a Guillow's Rubber Band Kit which is then sheeted. The fuse is only 23" long but takes as much time as a .60 size airplane. The nicest part of a small plane is that balsa filler can cover up bigger mistakes. Will still need half a truckload of the stuff. ;D
Frank
Nice work, Frank!
Thanks Michael,
I think I will shrink the size of the photographs as the project progresses... so you can't see all the gaps and mistakes. 50/50 rule applies*. Will need the half truckload of filler.
Frank
* 50/50 rule- if you can't see it at 50 mph at 50', don't worry about it. ;)
Last touches on the fuse:
Photo 22- side view of fuse with aluminum cowl slipped in place. First sanding of filler, tail piece added and shaped.
Photo 23- Top view of fuse. Looks cool!
Now to set the fuse aside and build the wing.
Wow Frank
that look so good
nice job...
Now Ve start da Ving.
Weird construction technique. The main spar is one piece of slotted plywood from gull wing to gull wing. Then glued 3x3 mil upper and lower wing spar on this plywood main spar. Then slip in the ribs. Impossible to pin this wing down in any way.
Photo 24- one half of the wing. The colourful rubber bands were to hold the spars in place while the 5 minute epoxy dried.
Photo 25- the whole wing. The ribs are just fitted in place (no glue) to determine how to build a straight wing without a building board.
A head scratcher. :P :-X :-\ :o :( >:(
Frank
Hey Frank
Your build looks great, get it finished and bring it to Orangeville for the May/June race.
I saw another Corsair listed for sale on RC Canada, it had a 35" wing span and was kitted by Sterling. It might be a control line model, you could pick it and fly control line with Rick and Cory. The Brantford guys fly some control line at their club.
See you at Kitchener Swap Meet.
Ken
Very interesting wing construction. I built a Topflite Corsair years ago and I believe it had tabs on ribs to allow it to be built on a board. It was still a bear to construct.
Yours is looking great!
After a day sick in bed.... and silence for all Temac members, it is back to building a model airplane
Photo 26- Right side (starboard) of the wing Slowly pulling everything together. None of the ribs have been glued on the main spar yet. Started out with gluing the leading and trailing edge against the two outer ribs of each section then once the 5 minute epoxy dried, glued the rest of the ribs to the leading edge, let that dry, then the trailing edge let that dry and then do it over again on the second half.
Back to my old rule of thumb "build one half of the wings and then make exactly the same mistakes on the second half (chord, span, etc.) and it will fly fine."
Photo 27- the whole wing. The second half is slowly catching up to the decisions/mistakes made on the first half.
It looks like very little was done but this was about a dozen separate mixes of 5 minute epoxy.
Today's topic:
How to straighten a crooked wing
How to make symmetrical mistakes.. but not those ones! ;D
Took out all the pins from the leading and trailing edges and guess what? a Crooked wing.... about 1/2" of wash-in. Dangerous, unflyable.
Pinned the root of the wingtip section to the building board via a rubber band. Used scrap trailing edge balsa to prop up the leading and trailing edge so root is at zero/zero. Then propped up the trailing edge at the wing tip with a scrap piece of trailing edge balsa to give it about 1/4" wash-out (trailing edge higher than leading edge). A total shift of about 3/4". Cut and trimmed the top leading edge sheeting and glued it in place. Held by the two rubber bands at the ends and pins in the middle. When this dries, the wing should at least be straight. Then I will install the bottom leading edge sheeting and pin it to the board again while it dries.
Whatever the result of this wing straightening, I will duplicate it on the other wing half. At the covering stage I will be able to give it some more was-out by twisting the wing while it cools.
Sorry Bruce. No "T" pins. Note how I cut back on the pretty pink pins ;D
Quote from: Frank v B on January 13, 2018, 08:31:41 PM
Rob,
re:"Port and Starboard wing sadles, LOL!"
Left and right is a direction. Port and Starboard is an orientation... relative to the pointy end of a boat or an airplane.
Sorry to be picky and detailed. Heck, Andy must be starting to rub off on me. Oh no! ;D
Frank
Bummer!! 8)
Andy
Quote from: Frank v B on January 19, 2018, 08:23:58 PM
Today's topic:
How to straighten a crooked wing
How to make symmetrical mistakes.. but not those ones! ;D
Took out all the pins from the leading and trailing edges and guess what? a Crooked wing.... about 1/2" of wash-in. Dangerous, unflyable.
Pinned the root of the wingtip section to the building board via a rubber band. Used scrap trailing edge balsa to prop up the leading and trailing edge so root is at zero/zero. Then propped up the trailing edge at the wing tip with a scrap piece of trailing edge balsa to give it about 1/4" wash-out (trailing edge higher than leading edge). A total shift of about 3/4". Cut and trimmed the top leading edge sheeting and glued it in place. Held by the two rubber bands at the ends and pins in the middle. When this dries, the wing should at least be straight. Then I will install the bottom leading edge sheeting and pin it to the board again while it dries.
Whatever the result of this wing straightening, I will duplicate it on the other wing half. At the covering stage I will be able to give it some more was-out by twisting the wing while it cools.
Sorry Bruce. No "T" pins. Note how I cut back on the pretty pink pins ;D
Please see http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6455.msg41987.html#msg41987
If you insist on using "unmanly pins" you will get "unmanly curves" in your wings! For heavens sake, heed the admonitions of our sagely CFI!! 8)
Andy
Sorry Bruce. No "T" pins. Note how I cut back on the pretty pink pins ;D
Frank ...its ok to use pins of colour as pink is just a colour ;)
Back to work.......
Photo 28- shows the close-up of the port wing half. The leading edge is closest to the camera. The leading edge sheeting trick worked and the wing is now straight. The bottom leading edge sheeting has not yet been done. The photo shows the landing gear block in place (below the rectangular balsa doubler). The original design was just the landing gear block sitting in between the two ribs with a plywood rib doubler on each rib. Not enough, especially since I know who will be flying this thing.
Have added the balsa triangle re-inforcement at the leading edge to brace the landing gear.
Have added triangle braces at the trailing edge where it splits and the aileron starts. Without braces, this would be a very weak area.
Photo 29 a close-up of the center section with all braces in place and drying.
Bruce, please note how large the photos open up when you click on them. Just for you. If you still have problems seeing them I will add a Braille setting. ;)
Sheeting the center section.
It was very obvious that each wing bay had to be sheeted individually because of the compound curves.
The original plan was to put the top and bottom on at the same time and glue them from the trailing edge up to the high point in the rib (spar), let it dry, then draw it together at the front and glue it in place. Problem was the clamps kept sliding off the leading edge. Ended up glueing the entire piece onto the wing (top and bottom), then wrapping it with green tape to hold it in place. There are 3 wraps of tape to hold it in place. The first wrap would not stick because I had to soak the balsa to allow it to bend. Tape does not like moisture.
Photo 30- view from the bottom of the wing. You can see the landing gear blocks in place here. Bruce: the photo is a little blurry. It should normalize after two beers. :D
Photo 31- two sides done and allowed to dry. The one clamp is to keep the sheeting flat on the rib.
Photo 32- My new favourite piece of woodworking equipment- Roger Mason's carbide stick. It makes sanding so fast, accurate and easy. It has a fine and course end... just like the man himself. ;)
Now the tedious centre sheeting. Doing a section at a time, top and bottom at the same time. Wet the wood, spread the glue, hold the wood, wrap tape around the wing to make it hold. There are three rows of tape on this section with 3 loops each. Each loop was pulled progressively tighter to make it follow the contours of the ribs.
The wing servo plates were installed, the servo wires fed through each rib. The servo was glued in place with 5 minute epoxy. Yep, I tested them first. Only the arms will protrude through the bottom of the plate.
The servos were repurposed from Michael's black Spitfire wing he sold at the TEMAC Swap meet. Michael, your plane lives on. Thank you for signing the Aviation Donor Card. :D
Photo 33 top view of the wing sheeting just completed. The servo is glued in place, the servo arm slot has been cut.
Photo 34- bottom view of the wing- shows the servo slot.
Hey
@Frank v B,
You should just keep going with the green tape. You've almost got the whole wing covered! ;D
Your good friend,
Andy
Interesting, in that the grain of the sheeting is not lengthwise.
Re: Interesting, in that the grain of the sheeting is not lengthwise.
Simply put, that's Frank. I am sure he will have a really good reason for it though. I can wait to hear it. ::)
Michael- re: "Interesting, in that the grain of the sheeting is not lengthwise."
I only made one small modification in the leading edge to reduce the cut pieces by four. Enough cutting and fitting already. See photo instructions.
Bruce:
re: "I can wait to hear it. ::)"
Please do not read the above....but hold your breath and keep waiting!
Frank (who else?)
I didn't criticize; I simply noticed something unusual.
Hey Andy!!
re:"You should just keep going with the green tape. You've almost got the whole wing covered! ;D"
Brilliant!
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on January 23, 2018, 09:50:02 PM
Hey Andy!!
re:"You should just keep going with the green tape. You've almost got the whole wing covered! ;D"
Brilliant!
Frank
Thanks Frank. Like you, I am more than just a pretty face!! ;D
Andy
Quote from: Michael on January 23, 2018, 05:06:29 PM
Interesting, in that the grain of the sheeting is not lengthwise.
I agree it looks odd as it's not the usual way, but I assume it's because those areas of the wing require the sheeting to follow compound curves as the inverted gull shape created curves span-wise. The curve span-wise is likely tighter than cord-wise... so it's easier to align the gain that way.
While I'm here... I'll just add that the build looks AWESOME Frank!
Quote from: piker on January 24, 2018, 10:27:21 AM
Quote from: Michael on January 23, 2018, 05:06:29 PM
Interesting, in that the grain of the sheeting is not lengthwise.
I agree it looks odd as it's not the usual way, but I assume it's because those areas of the wing require the sheeting to follow compound curves as the inverted gull shape created curves span-wise. The curve span-wise is likely tighter than cord-wise... so it's easier to align the gain that way.
While I'm here... I'll just add that the build looks AWESOME Frank!
Now, that's a good explanation!
Michael, what did Rob say? Did you really understand that? ???
Now Frank says he is partly following instructions. (A first) I noted they are pictorial in nature - big help eh Frank
@Frank v B ?
Yes, I understood.
Normally, wing sheeting is applied with the grain perpendicular to the curve of the surface.
Since that section of the wing likely also has a partial curve lengthwise, or even a compound curve, the designer probably felt it would better suit the construction of that part of the gull-wing to have that portion of sheeting in the unusual direction.
Have kept building but kept quiet.... How interesting can gluing another piece of sheeting be?
Done since the last post
- finished the sheeting of the wing
- installed the wing dowel
- installed the leading edge doublers and trailing edges .
- hinged the ailerons
- installed the wingtips
- made the stabilizer and elevator halves
Next major steps:
- make tail cone around the fin/stab
- sanding, filling and final sanding
- radio and motor installation
- landing gear.
Motor
Have pretty well decided on the Supertigre .10 3 cell electric motor Approx 275 watts. The real reason- it can swing a 3 bladed prop and it is much lighter than an E-Flite 480..... and.... I happen to have one! :D
Frank
I wonder if Frank's head will swell up if I tell him how beautiful this build looks. I think he should cover it in clear film (e.g. Saran wrap) to preserve the beauty of his fine woodworking craftsmanship!
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on January 28, 2018, 05:54:42 PM
I wonder if Frank's head will swell up if I tell him how beautiful this build looks. I think he should cover it in clear film (e.g. Saran wrap) to preserve the beauty of his fine woodworking craftsmanship!
Andy
@Andy Hoffer ,
@Frank v B I preferred the painters tape... Andy, what did Frank bribe you with to say such kind words?
Re:
"Have kept building but kept quiet.... How interesting can gluing another piece of sheeting be?"I didn't think it was possible. Obviously the activity keeps your interests. :-*
Andy and Bruce,
You are waaayyyy too kind, complimentary, encouraging, friendly, praiseful, lauditory, fawning, respectful, cordial, thoughtful, amicable, nice, generous, kind-heated, benevolent, kindly, tender-hearted, cruel.
Shortly my E-GO will be an E-WENT. 8)
Frank
ps: Bruce, shouldn't you be leaving shortly to go and inspect the wall at the US/Mexican border?? Make sure there are smoke detectors in the tunnels under the wall. ;D
Quote from: Frank v B on January 28, 2018, 10:06:28 PM
Andy and Bruce,
You are waaayyyy too kind, complimentary, encouraging, friendly, praiseful, lauditory, fawning, respectful, cordial, thoughtful, amicable, nice, generous, kind-heated, benevolent, kindly, tender-hearted,[/s] cruel.
Shortly my E-GO will be an E-WENT. 8)
Frank
ps: Bruce, shouldn't you be leaving shortly to go and inspect the wall at the US/Mexican border?? Make sure there are smoke detectors in the tunnels under the wall. ;D
Look out boys. Frank found his Thesaurus!! 8)
Andy
@Frank v B , I don't plan on getting any closer to that border than being at least 30,000 feet above it. It isn't like the wall of China where you can actually see it from above either, you know. For that reason, I don't even care if I have a window seat.
@Andy Hoffer and I know that you had to push back your true feelings about us, before finally calling us 'cruel'. Thanks Frank.
[You are waaayyyy too kind, complimentary, encouraging, friendly, praiseful, lauditory, fawning, respectful, cordial, thoughtful, amicable, nice, generous, kind-heated, benevolent, kindly, tender-hearted,[/s] cruel.] [/b] :-*
PS - Frank, 'praiseful' isn't a word in my dictionary and lauditory is spelled with an 'a', not an 'i'. (And I thought my dollar store thesaurus and dictionary wasn't that accurate. Also when I use the FORUM, it also has a free spell check feature.) ;D
Oh so now it has become an English lesson. All I can say is:
"I dun care what you sink about my kommand of the Henglish language. I am a foreigner and stepped off the bote a mere 55 years ago. Dare is only so much you can lurn reading the back of cereal bockses while going to a university.
....And Andy, about the "thesaurus". When did this become a palaeontology lesson?" ;D
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on January 29, 2018, 10:05:21 PM
Oh so now it has become an English lesson. All I can say is:
"I dun care what you sink about my kommand of the Henglish language. I am a foreigner and stepped off the bote a mere 55 years ago. Dare is only so much you can lurn reading the back of cereal bockses while going to a university.
....And Andy, about the "thesaurus". When did this become a palaeontology paleontology lesson?" ;D
Frank
As long as there are old fossils around, there will be paleontology (if not proper spelling)!!! 8)
Andy
OK Ynda ;D
Darn, spell-check did not work.
Frank
Now back to the build....
- sanded the leading edge and wingtips. Note the pen marks indicating the high point of the leading edge and wingtip balsa.
- installed the hardpoints to hold the cowl in place. 3 screws do the trick.
- installed the SuperTigre .10 out runner. It has a 30 amp ESC. Found a cool 3-bladed Zinger of approximately the correct diameter (8x6)
- did the bottom of the wing round contour in the mid-section, including the leading edge dowels. Note the ink marks showing where the landing gear blocks are hidden under the sheeting.
Sitting here absorbing and learning so intently. I did not realize the Thesaurus was still around, I thought they were wiped out during the "Cretaceous Period"!! ;D
Sweet build Frank! Any thought to the colour scheme?
Glenn
Glenn,
Poor Mr. Roget and his ancient book.
I had to laugh today reading the Star. An article by Dave Feschuk had a spelling mistake in it (underlined). What is a "FOWRAD"? I guess it is better to be a "Fowrad" than on "The Fence". :)
As far as colours are concerned, I am partial to the dark blue/light blue one of the Pacific Theatre. At some point I will leaf through my airplane books.... after I take stock of the covering colours I have in inventory.
Frank
Making the tail fillets. The little filler pieces between the fin and the stab in line with the curvature of the fuselage:
1) Made a "T" section using wood the same thickness of the fin and the stab. Let it dry completely
2) Cut the "T" section to the correct length of the opening and glue in place with 4 small dabs of 5 minute epoxy. Once sanded, these pieces have to be cut apart.
3) Add the rough fillets. Each one was attached with three small dabs of 5 minute epoxy.
Once the epoxy dries, everything is sanded to shape and then cut apart with an X-Acto #11 blade. What is left are 2 perfectly fitting fillets. Make sure you mark "left" and "right"... or "port" and "starboard" if you are Andy. :)
Frank
Shaping the tail fillets:
1) shaped the inserts with a razor plane
2) I have marked the spacer pieces with black magic marker
3) the two tail fillets finished. Ta Da!
Total elapsed time for shaping and cutting- 5 minutes.
Frank
The fillets can also be hollowed out and used as salt and pepper shakers!! As shown in the 4th photo, they are conveniently premarked with "S" and "P". That
@Frank v B guy is a master of multi-purpose balsa!! :D
Andy
Now that Andy has decided he wants both pepper and salt with his balsa dust, we will continue the build....
- installed the servos for elevator and rudder
- filled in the wingtips at the leading and trailing edge... 8 fillers... tedious
- added the landing gear by cutting the groove and drilling the retainer holes
- added the pilot... so the plane flies better.
Sanded everything smooth. Ready for covering.
Frank
Now to answer Glenn's question on colour. I went to my two books of cool prop planes.
Objective:
- To me a Corsair is best remembered in dark blue. Preferred dark blue on the bottom as well to make it visible in the cloudless warm summer sky (dreaming!).
- wanted some form of contrasting colour up front.
Found the perfect subject. It even has an arrow on the starboard wingtip (called "Andy's Arrow") to remind me of the direction of flight.
Frank
Blue and yellow, ... I like it.
Started the covering. Found a new roll of Midnight Blue Ultracote. Good enough for me.
Started with the wing. Get the most frustrating part out of the way first!
Step 1- first thing to do when covering the wing is to cover the aileron inside corners with small pieces of covering. If you don't, it will show bare wood. Notice in the photo that I pulled the aileron out with the CA hinges attached. I cover the wing in its entirety first, then use the bare aileron to find the hinge slots in the trailing edge. Once I have cut those, I can cover the aileron.
Step 2- A normal wing is covered in 4 pieces (2 top, two bottom). This wing was done in 18 separate pieces because of the gull wing and the round center section on the bottom. Arghhh!!
Step 3- Had to put the aileron horns on with the servos centred since they are being buried in the wing. Once in, the servo arm screw cannot be accessed. Notice that the covering is not shrunk yet. Never do it until the entire wing is covered. This way you can control wing warps.
Tomorrow will be spent finishing the wing and ailerons.
There is a finish line.... somewhere.... like there is a Spring... sometime. ;D
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 02, 2018, 10:24:43 PM
There is a finish line.... somewhere.... like there is a Spring... sometime. ;D
Frank
It's in the corn, so don't cross it. Just land short!! 8)
Andy
It is starting to look like an airplane. Everything is covered except for the elevator and fin/rudder. Nothing has been shrunk yet.
- have to deal with the tail wheel. The plans show a fixed tail wheel but there really are only two options: i) a fully operational tail wheel with a tiller bar at the rudder or ii) a castoring tail wheel. Will tinker with it tomorrow.
- the elevator joiner dowel is covered with carbon fibre and 5 minute epoxy. I put waxed paper around it and used red electrical tape to hold it over night. I was starting to get concerned as the motor increased in size and the weight increased. The elevator halves are held together with a 1/8" dowel. If it twists under load it will be difficult to handle.... if it breaks, it will be life altering.
Oops. Forgot to include Andy's salt and pepper shaker in the photo.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 03, 2018, 11:02:22 PM
- the elevator joiner dowel is covered with carbon fibre and 5 minute epoxy. I put waxed paper around it and used red electrical tape to hold it over night. I was starting to get concerned as the motor increased in size and the weight increased. The elevator halves are held together with a 1/8" dowel. If it twists under load it will be difficult to handle.... if it breaks, it will be life altering.
Frank
Would 1/8" carbon fibre rod be an option to replace the wooden dowel?
Attentive Student Hoffer
Andy,
Yep.... but that would have required thought on my part. ;) The real problem is gluing the carbon rod to the balsa. Sometimes the joint is not solid when using epoxy and I cannot use CA. This whole thing only took 5 minutes and it should be plenty strong.... until the crash investigation report is published! ;D
Here is what I did:
- took the waxed paper off and cut back the excess carbon fibre around the dowel. First photo.
- applied 5 minute epoxy around the center part of the dowel and wrapped 3 wraps of carbon veil around it. Second and third Photo.
- wrapped a small strip of waxed paper around the dowel and a wrap of electrical tape to hold the waxed paper while the glue cures.
Photos will follow later because apparently you have to charge rechargeable camera batteries once in a while. :P
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 04, 2018, 11:31:50 AM
Photos will follow later because apparently you have to charge rechargeable camera batteries once in a while. :P
Frank
Hmm... This concept may have application to your TX and flight batteries!!! 8)
Andy
Finished the tail wheel issue. Drilled a hole through the bottom and through the stab. Slipped in a piece of brass tubing and glued it in place. Bent wire to make the tail wheel assembly and put it through the brass tube. Bent the tiller arm.
I will cut a slot horizontally through the bottom of the rudder and insert a metal tube so it can slip over this tiller.
The photo shows the tail wheel assembly below the fuselage, the stab and elevator in place, the tiller arm above the brass tube at the top of the fuselage.... and Andy's salt and pepper shakers glued and covered and ready for installation.
Also completed- wing attachment bolt drilled and tapped, ailerons installed permanently, fin covered, fuse covering removed where the fin glues to the fuse.
Just attached the fin. I cut the covering from where the fin needs to be glued, added 5 minute epoxy and used two pins to hold it in place (fore and aft). Then taped a plastic rectangle to the fin and rudder to make sure the fin is at 90 degrees. Note that the corner of the triangle has been cut out to allow for the fuselage.
Andy's salt and pepper shakers are glued and heat sealed in place.
@Frank v B and
@Andy Hoffer Re:
Then taped a plastic rectangle to the fin and rudder to make sure the fin is at 90 degrees. Note that the corner of the triangle has been cut out to allow for the fuselage.Frank you are much to fastidious. I wouldn't have cut out the corner of the triangle. I would have cut a slot into the salt and pepper shakers on each side of the fin and used another triangle on the other side to ensure that side was also at 90 degrees too. Further, making the triangles permanent allows for equal drag occurring on both sides, minimizing the amount of trim you would have to use to compensate for having a triangle on only one side. And when the plane crashes, the fin will likely remain in place in its 90 degree attitude, saving lots of time on the rebuild. I hope that is clear. :-\
Quote from: Frank v B on February 05, 2018, 09:36:37 PM
Andy's salt and pepper shakers are glued and heat sealed in place.
It is comforting to know that my salt and pepper shakers are securely mounted in the safest part of
@Frank v B's plane and will provide a visible marker for recovery of the
plant plane. I am most honoured to be in the tail gunner position.
Andy
Quote from: bweaver on February 05, 2018, 11:56:13 PM
@Frank v B and @Andy Hoffer Re: Then taped a plastic rectangle to the fin and rudder to make sure the fin is at 90 degrees. Note that the corner of the triangle has been cut out to allow for the fuselage.
Frank you are much to fastidious. I wouldn't have cut out the corner of the triangle. I would have cut a slot into the salt and pepper shakers on each side of the fin and used another triangle on the other side to ensure that side was also at 90 degrees too. Further, making the triangles permanent allows for equal drag occurring on both sides, minimizing the amount of trim you would have to use to compensate for having a triangle on only one side. And when the plane crashes, the fin will likely remain in place in its 90 degree attitude, saving lots of time on the rebuild. I hope that is clear. :-\
@bweaver is truly a natural aeronautical engineer. I am awestruck by the depth of his insights! 8)
Andy
Andy,
re: "I am most honoured to be in the tail gunner position."
The safest place. That's where the black boxes are located.
Bruce:
re:"I would have cut a slot into the salt and pepper shakers on each side of the fin".
That's how I built them until I realized the shakers were below the rudder and not the fin.
re: "Further, making the triangles permanent allows for equal drag occurring on both sides, minimizing the amount of trim"
I guess this plane will have leftist tendencies. If I would have built this plane to crash and not to fly I would have covered it in a Glad bag. :)
Frank
It's starting to look like a plane!
photo 1 - shows the aluminum tube cut into the rudder
photo 2 - shows the carbon veil around the bottom of the rudder, covered in waxed paper and held tight with masking tape.
photo 3 - shows the rudder in place on the plane.
Ready to bring to the meeting tomorrow.
still to be done:
- control linkages
- radio/esc hook-up
- battery hatch hold-downs (magnets)
- decals
- canopy
- a thousand small details.
TA DA!
Inspired by
@Frank v B's wonderful Corsair build, I decided to scratch build a really scale pilot this week. I even put a hatch on top to facilitate brain upgrades to accommodate new technology, like 2.4 GHz radios. It's almost ready for covering, and should look a lot like Frank when I finish with the paint!! 8)
Andy
Andy,
Too much. ;D ;D ;D
I'm sure I'll stop laughing by the time the Pilots Meeting starts tonight..... heck, that's 7 hours from now!!! :D :D
Frank
ps: re: "I even put a hatch on top to facilitate brain upgrades" Can you upgrade a vacuum? ;D
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on February 07, 2018, 09:40:22 AM
Inspired by @Frank v B's wonderful Corsair build, I decided to scratch build a really scale pilot this week. I even put a hatch on top to facilitate brain upgrades to accommodate new technology, like 2.4 GHz radios. It's almost ready for covering, and should look a lot like Frank when I finish with the paint!! 8)
Andy
@Andy Hoffer If you haven't started the covering and you are truly trying to make it resemble
@Frank v B, use a Glad bag as Frank had recommended earlier to ensure it won't fly. I can't wait to see the facial rendition of Frank, but Andy with the subject matter you are wishing to resemble, you will have to use Picaso's style of painting and further modelling. A very ambitious project Andy. I am looking forward to seeing further posts as your project proceeds.
Oh, just about forgot to mention, for realism the 'upgrade feature will be unnecessary.
Quote from: Frank v B on February 07, 2018, 10:14:49 AM
Andy,
Too much. ;D ;D ;D
I'm sure I'll stop laughing by the time the Pilots Meeting starts tonight..... heck, that's 7 hours from now!!! :D :D
Frank
ps: re: "I even put a hatch on top to facilitate brain upgrades" Can you upgrade a vacuum? ;D
Sure! S&P balsa dust! It's
got to be a great improvement!! 8)
Andy
Quote from: bweaver on February 07, 2018, 10:42:50 AM
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on February 07, 2018, 09:40:22 AM
Inspired by @Frank v B's wonderful Corsair build, I decided to scratch build a really scale pilot this week. I even put a hatch on top to facilitate brain upgrades to accommodate new technology, like 2.4 GHz radios. It's almost ready for covering, and should look a lot like Frank when I finish with the paint!! 8)
Andy
@Andy Hoffer If you haven't started the covering and you are truly trying to make it resemble @Frank v B, use a Glad bag as Frank had recommended earlier to ensure it won't fly. I can't wait to see the facial rendition of Frank, but Andy with the subject matter you are wishing to resemble, you will have to use Picaso's style of painting and further modelling. A very ambitious project Andy. I am looking forward to seeing further posts as your project proceeds.
Oh, just about forgot to mention, for realism the 'upgrade feature will be unnecessary.
Absolutely prescient,
@bweaver. We are
so on the same wavelength!!
Andy
Hey
@bweaver ,
Do you think I've got
@Frank v B's complexion right? I opted for a semi-transparent finish to let the beauty of his inner self shine through!!! 8)
Andy
@Andy Hoffer You are well on the way to mastering this one, especially considering the subject matter you have selected. ;)
(And I thought you were just another pretty face.) This Andy has talents we don't know about yet.
Andy,
The world will be fine as long as you stay away from self-replicating. The world can only use... and stand... one of you. ;)
Frank
Frank had the model at tonight's meeting. It's really nice, and it feels much lighter than one might have thought, given the complicated building structure.
That's another model we're all looking forward to seeing in the air.
Thank you Michael. A balsa build is really satisfying.... when finished. :D
Your Sig Kobra looks great and should be a rocket. It will be interesting to see what the EF-1 motor will be like. It should still have lots of vertical despite the 8x8 speed prop because of the watts/lb (800 watts, 3-3.5 pound airplane).
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 07, 2018, 10:10:22 PM
Andy,
The world will be fine as long as you stay away from self-replicating. The world can only use... and stand... one of you. ;)
Frank
I couldn't agree more. I would burn out if I had to do battle with myself. And then who would there be to look after
you?!! 8)
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on February 08, 2018, 12:17:43 AM
Quote from: Frank v B on February 07, 2018, 10:10:22 PM
Andy,
The world will be fine as long as you stay away from self-replicating. The world can only use... and stand... one of you. ;)
Frank
I couldn't agree more. I would burn out if I had to do battle with myself. And then who would there be to look after you?!! 8)
Andy
Why, Bruce of course! Frank could never be neglected. :P
Back to some serious building.
In the spirit of improved safety, this Corsair has a safety feature as of tonight. Eyes on the tarmac. Charlie the pilot now has a servo embedded in his shoulders and will look left and right for me while taxiing.
Safety is one of our main objectives. ;D
The seat still has to be modified so he sits a little lower in the cockpit. Have to accommodate the servo that now sticks below.
Frank
photo 1 - eyes to port
photo 2 - eyes to starboard
photo 3 - eyes down the runway.
photo 4 - Charlie, post surgery
Very nice touch! Bravo!
Andy
Andy,
re:"Very nice touch! Bravo!"
I'm waiiiiiiting. There's got to be a "but" missing. This sounds way too much like a compliment. 8)
Bruce,
There is something wrong with our friend Andy. Should I take him to a doctor... or veterinarian? ;)
Frank
ps: this weekend I will be putting the finishing touches on it including "Andy's arrow" on the starboard wing. Will post a photo.
Quote from: Frank v B on February 09, 2018, 05:45:34 PM
Andy,
re:"Very nice touch! Bravo!"
I'm waiiiiiiting. There's got to be a "but" missing. This sounds way too much like a compliment. 8)
Bruce,
There is something wrong with our friend Andy. Should I take him to a doctor... or veterinarian? ;)
Frank
ps: this weekend I will be putting the finishing touches on it including "Andy's arrow" on the starboard wing. Will post a photo.
You just can't be nice to some people!! 8)
Andy
@Andy Hoffer regarding your statement:
You just can't be nice to some people!! 8)Andy, who's side are you on?
Be nice to the rest of us! Put your self in my place... Nothing like sitting down to enjoy my morning java and checking out the forum updates, when I come to your reply. Expanding the
@Frank v B s postage stamp size photograph image was a startling sight. :o
At least now I know the sights today can only get better...
Edit: Just had to add that my brother in-laws comment while looking over my shoulder, when he saw the expanded image was, "what's that?" not "who is that?"
Quote from: bweaver on February 10, 2018, 09:45:18 AM
@Andy Hoffer regarding your statement: You just can't be nice to some people!! 8)
Andy, who's side are you on? Be nice to the rest of us! Put your self in my place... Nothing like sitting down to enjoy my morning java and checking out the forum updates, when I come to your reply. Expanding the @Frank v B s postage stamp size photograph image was a startling sight. :o
At least now I know the sights today can only get better...
Edit: Just had to add that my brother in-laws comment while looking over my shoulder, when he saw the expanded image was, "what's that?" not "who is that?"
You are so right
@bweaver! I have truly been remiss. I hope this shows that I am trying to be nice to you too. I would never want you to feel neglected!! 8)
Respectfully yours,
Andy
Andy,
Bruce's photo looks like the red Baron sans spiked helmet. The picture is great. :D
I am so glad we love model airplanes and don't belong to an equestrian club or pigeon racing club. Imagine what you would do to those club members.
Frank
RE:
You are so right @bweaver! I have truly been remiss. I hope this shows that I am trying to be nice to you too. I would never want you to feel neglected!! 8)
Respectfully yours,
Andy
Thanks
@Andy Hoffer , at least the picture selected of me was much nicer than the one you selected of
@Frank v B. I guess as a photographer you have to put up with what ever subject matter you are working with. Come to think of it, that may not say much for the both of us. :-[
Quote from: bweaver on February 10, 2018, 05:46:18 PM
RE: You are so right @bweaver! I have truly been remiss. I hope this shows that I am trying to be nice to you too. I would never want you to feel neglected!! 8)
Respectfully yours,
Andy
Thanks @Andy Hoffer , at least the picture selected of me was much nicer than the one you selected of @Frank v B. I guess as a photographer you have to put up with what ever subject matter you are working with. Come to think of it, that may not say much for the both of us. :-[
Well, you gotta love Photoshop. It can mitigate a whole multitude of sins!! 8)
Andy
Update:
Nothing worth a picture or two but last night and this morning started the million item detail list. Gnawing away at it:
- installed the servos permanently, installed the pushrods, pushrod braces and adjusted the lengths.
- installed the ESC, drilled cooling holes in the firewall and motor box.
- made the control horns for the ailerons (plywood and carbon veil, will show photos later)
- applied the USAF decals.... and Andy's Arrow.
- properly seated the battery hatch and installed the hold-down magnets.
- Adjusted Charlie's seat (cut a servo slot) so he sits at the proper hight in the cockpit.
At the last Pilot's Meeting both Michael and Cadez suggested the cowl be left as spun aluminum and not painted. Will do!
Have to go put a coat of paint on my living room windows*, then I'll report back.
Frank
* my defence of "Sunday is supposed to be the day of rest" did not work. Get back to work. Yes Dear!! :(
Quote from: Frank v B on February 11, 2018, 11:05:49 AM
Update:
Nothing worth a picture or two but last night and this morning started the million item detail list. Gnawing away at it:
- installed the servos permanently, installed the pushrods, pushrod braces and adjusted the lengths.
- installed the ESC, drilled cooling holes in the firewall and motor box.
- made the control horns for the ailerons (plywood and carbon veil, will show photos later)
- applied the USAF decals.... and Andy's Arrow.
- properly seated the battery hatch and installed the hold-down magnets.
- Adjusted Charlie's seat (cut a servo slot) so he sits at the proper hight in the cockpit.
At the last Pilot's Meeting both Michael and Cadez suggested the cowl be left as spun aluminum and not painted. Will do!
Have to go put a coat of paint on my living room windows*, then I'll report back.
Frank
* my defence of "Sunday is supposed to be the day of rest" did not work. Get back to work. Yes Dear!! :(
@Frank v B,
I really think my Arrow deserves a photograph, if only to prove that you have it pointing in the right (i.e. correct - not to be confused with starboard) direction!! I would not want my name to be associated with anyone else's "backward" tendencies - I prefer my own!! 8)
Respectfully (well, sort of) yours,
Andy
Quote from: Frank v B on February 11, 2018, 11:05:49 AM
Update:
Nothing worth a picture or two but last night and this morning started the million item detail list. Gnawing away at it:
- installed the servos permanently, installed the pushrods, pushrod braces and adjusted the lengths.
- installed the ESC, drilled cooling holes in the firewall and motor box.
- made the control horns for the ailerons (plywood and carbon veil, will show photos later)
- applied the USAF decals.... and Andy's Arrow.
- properly seated the battery hatch and installed the hold-down magnets.
- Adjusted Charlie's seat (cut a servo slot) so he sits at the proper hight in the cockpit.
At the last Pilot's Meeting both Michael and Cadez suggested the cowl be left as spun aluminum and not painted. Will do!
Have to go put a coat of paint on my living room windows*, then I'll report back.
Frank
* my defence of "Sunday is supposed to be the day of rest" did not work. Get back to work. Yes Dear!! :(
@Frank v B ,
His name is "Bruce", a.k.a
@bweaver . And
he is
definitely worth a picture!! You've got to start paying attention, and due homage, to our CFI. 8)
Andy
Andy, you fight it out with Bruce on the pilot's name. ;D
Update:
Photo 1- shows the plywood horns for the ailerons. The plywood horn on top of Andy's Arrow (fly this way, stupid :D) is after the epoxy dried. Cut two pieces out of 1/32" plywood and glued them together with a bit of carbon veil in between. The one to the left of the arrow was sanded and ready to be use.
Photo 2- shows the aileron horn installation- The servo tester was connected and set on "centre". The aileron was taped in the neutral position and a slot was cut in the aileron. The pushrod was made to the correct length and the horn was glued into the aileron. It is now automatically centred.
Photo 3- shows the battery hatch. Installed balsa crossbars in the fuselage and on the hatch. Once dry, holes were drilled and the magnets installed. Note the ESC in the fuselage beside the battery box.
Photo 4- shows the servo installation for the rudder and elevator. Notice that the rudder servo had to be raised with two pieces of lite ply so the pushrod could clear the balsa cross piece for Charlie's seat. Used plastic horns for these surfaces.
Quote from: Frank v B on February 11, 2018, 02:18:38 PM
Andy, you fight it out with Bruce on the pilot's name. ;D
Update:
Photo 1- shows the plywood horns for the ailerons. The plywood horn on top of Andy's Arrow (fly this way, stupid :D) is after the epoxy dried. Cut two pieces out of 1/16" plywood and glued them together with a bit of carbon veil in between. The one to the left of the arrow was sanded and ready to be use.
Photo 2- shows the aileron horn installation- The servo tester was connected and set on "centre". The aileron was taped in the neutral position and a slot was cut in the aileron. The pushrod was made to the correct length and the horn was glued into the aileron. It is now automatically centred.
Photo 3- shows the battery hatch. Installed balsa crossbars in the fuselage and on the hatch. Once dry, holes were drilled and the magnets installed. Note the ESC in the fuselage beside the battery box.
Photo 4- shows the servo installation for the rudder and elevator. Used plastic horns for these surfaces.
Hey
@Frank v B,
Neophyte Hoffer here:
1. Why do the aileron control horns need to be so beefy (2 x 1/16" 3-ply + veil = 1/8" 6-ply? I would have thought 1/16" 3-ply would provide more than adequate strength.
2. Will the ESC have enough cooling squeezed into that tiny space?
Attentively yours,
Andy
Andy,
great questions:
The horns- went back and looked and I was mistaken (not the first time in my life!). They were made from a double 1/32" plywood because I did not have 1/16. The carbon was in the middle... because I had it. Your conclusion:"I would have thought 1/16" 3-ply would provide more than adequate strength." is absolutely correct. The correction to "1/32" has been made to the previous post.
The cooling- I had the same concern but the cowl is a huge air funnel and the interior structure is open. Will maiden it without the canopy because it is a huge cooling exhaust under Charlie's butt (read as "heated seating"). If it runs cool, it will be left this way, if it runs hot, I will cut exhausts in the bottom of the fuselage behind the wing.
Until the model is weighed and everything is plugged into a watt meter, I have no idea how many amps it draws on the 30 amp ESC. If it draws 20 amps, it will be cool, if it draws 30 amps then..."Houston, we have a problem". Math class comes later (watts/lb).
On both questions: Operating principles: "Don't make a decision until you have to" and "belt and suspenders". Remember who will be flying this contraption. ;D ;)
Frank
Finished!!!!
Just finished installing everything, programming the TX (throws, reverse, dual rates), installing the receiver and binding it, hooking up the servos, connecting Charlie.
Math Class: Now Students, sit down please.
Total weight 33.2 oz (2.08 lbs)
Total watts Zinger 8x6 3 blade 180 watts
Total watts Graupner 9x7 3 blade 260 watts
Total max continuous of the motor 320 watts
Total max burst 370 watts
Calculations:
Battery 3S 2200 25C Venom Power, motor Supertigre .10 out runner
Zinger 8x6 3 blade 86 watts/lb
Graupner 9x7 3 blade 125 watts/lb
Max continuous 153 watts/lb
Max burst 178 watts/lb
Better than I thought. Will maiden it with the Graupner 3 blade. It will draw 23 amps max on the 30 amp ESC. It should not get too hot since most flying is done at 70-80% throttle.
MaidenFest here we come.
The result is better than I thought. A tough but rewarding project.
Will assemble it tomorrow, pretty it up and will post a "finished" photo.
Thanks for bearing with this post. :P
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 11, 2018, 09:07:54 PM
Finished!!!!
Just finished installing everything, programming the TX (throws, reverse, dual rates), installing the receiver and binding it, hooking up the servos, connecting Charlie.
Math Class: Now Students, sit down please.
Total weight 33.2 oz (2.08 lbs)
Total watts Zinger 8x6 3 blade 180 watts
Total watts Graupner 9x7 3 blade 260 watts
Total max continuous of the motor 320 watts
Total max burst 370 watts
Calculations:
Battery 3S 2200 25C Venom Power, motor Supertigre .10 out runner
Zinger 8x6 3 blade 86 watts/lb
Graupner 9x7 3 blade 125 watts/lb
Max continuous 153 watts/lb
Max burst 178 watts/lb
Better than I thought. Will maiden it with the Graupner 3 blade. It will draw 23 amps max on the 30 amp ESC. It should not get too hot since most flying is done at 70-80% throttle.
MaidenFest here we come.
The result is better than I thought. A tough but rewarding project.
Will assemble it tomorrow, pretty it up and will post a "finished" photo.
Thanks for bearing with this post. :P
Frank
Way to go,
@Frank v B !!
Could you explain exactly what happens at "
Max Burst"??!!!! I seem to recall hearing about the consequences of someone's appendix
bursting, and it was rather unpleasant! I would hate to see Pilot Charlie become the victim of control inputs over which he has no control!!
Andy
Andy,
"Burst" is defined as max power it can take for 15-20 seconds.... or it will do just that! :D
As Mike H. would say..."the white smoke of surrender".
The "bends" of the air, crossing the "line" in sand, the "don't go there" of model aviation, the beyond Max!, The police's "Do not cross", A skydiver's "beyond terminal velocity" or Ededge's fork in the duplex outlet. A shocking experience ;D
Frank
Oh, I get it: another agricultural planting in the corn!!
Thanks
@Frank v B ! :D
Andy,
re: "Planting"
We all have our specialties. We don't build airplanes. We farm them. :)
Frank
The photos of the finished plane. Ready for the first flight. Only the canopy was pinned in place. It will not be used during the maiden for cooling reasons. Charlie is sitting in the pilot's seat. Andy's arrow is clearly visible on the starboard wing "fly this way, stupid"
Looking at the photos, I will paint the rudder and elevator control horns blue. The white plastic sticks out like a sore thumb.
Thanks for participating in the build by your visits to this post.
Next up- covering the Chica. See the post at http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html.
Frank
Bravo!!
That is a really beautiful build!
One suggestion, keep your elevator throw to a minimum.
Look forward to seeing the maiden of this little gem. Have you shown the original owner of the kit yet?
Glenn
Nice build Frank. I have been following your posts in silence. Seemed like a lot of work, but the end result was worth it. Looking forward to seeing it fly!
I must confess... it does look very nice and I am also looking forward to see it fly. I have enjoyed the build.
Keep smiling
@Frank v B . ;D
Nice work, Frank! A very cool looking plane!
Good luck with the test flight!
Quote from: Frank v B on February 12, 2018, 08:47:10 PM
The photos of the finished plane. Ready for the first flight. Only the canopy was pinned in place. It will not be used during the maiden for cooling reasons. Charlie is sitting in the pilot's seat. Andy's arrow is clearly visible on the starboard wing "fly this way, stupid"
Looking at the photos, I will paint the rudder and elevator control horns blue. The white plastic sticks out like a sore thumb.
Thanks for participating in the build by your visits to this post.
Next up- covering the Chica. See the post at http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html.
Frank
Charlie needs to pay attention to where the camera is!! In most of these photos he appears to be turning the other cheek, and he also appears to be an unwilling subject who needs to show a little bit of the respect due his masterful creator!! I will have to have a chat with him when I see him. He will not get away with this behaviour when
I photograph him!
He is detracting from an otherwise gorgeous aircraft! >:(
Andy
Dear Temac members:
re: Andy's "I will have to have a chat with him when I see him. He will not get away with this behaviour when I photograph him!"
Our club mate Andy now wants to talk to dolls in model airplanes and affect and influence their behaviour. Please read about it in his upcoming book "The Taming of the Crew". ;D
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 12, 2018, 08:47:10 PM
The photos of the finished plane. Ready for the first flight. Only the canopy was pinned in place. It will not be used during the maiden for cooling reasons. Charlie is sitting in the pilot's seat. Andy's arrow is clearly visible on the starboard wing "fly this way, stupid"
Looking at the photos, I will paint the rudder and elevator control horns blue. The white plastic sticks out like a sore thumb.
Thanks for participating in the build by your visits to this post.
Next up- covering the Chica. See the post at http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html.
Frank
If your landing attitude is similar to that displayed in the last photo, no one will even notice the white plastic control horn back plates!! 8)
Andy
Andy,
re: "If your landing attitude is similar to that displayed in the last photo"
That photo is so all members will know what the bottom of the plane looks like so they can help me recover the plane from the farmer's field... after one of my typical landings. :)
Frank
Thanks Oscar, Glenn, Rob D., Bruce and Piker for the comments.
Glenn, thanks for the "elevator" advice. So it behaves like a Mustang. I coach people to set the throws on a Mustang* as low as they dare.... then reduce it a further 30%. A short-coupled airplane. I will heed your advice the same way.
Also, I painted all control horns and LG plates blue. Looks a lot better. Worth the 5 minutes!
Regarding Glenn's question of whether the customer who gave it to me has seen it. No he has not. He and his wife are in Florida to the end of the month. I did send him a "Finished" note and he replied.
On Monday, February 12, I wrote to him:
Norman,
The punishment project is finished. :-)
You can see the whole post and a lot more photos on our TEMAC website http://temac.ca/smf/index.php?topic=6459.msg42340#msg42340
It has been a challenge but the finished product should fly fine.
Safe home
Frank
His reply that same evening:
"Great job.I can hardly wait to see it fly!"
Frank
* I have built/owned 7 Mustangs.!
Quote from: Frank v B on February 14, 2018, 05:53:19 PM
* I have built/owned 7 Mustangs.!
So it took 7 tries to get the throws right?!! ;D
Andy
Dear Charlie,
Now that
@Frank v B is totally consumed with his Cheeky build, we can have a good discussion about your future, and doing everything we can to ensure it is a long and prosperous one. You need to know that however well-intentioned he may be, the guy who will be sending the radio signals to your receiver is not quite as capable a pilot as you. While
you can look left, right or forward to maintain situational awareness of things like corn, trees, and the ground,
@Frank v B's field of view is severely limited when he is flying. He will be totally focused on you and your plane, so these other hazards may not come into his field of view until inertia precludes a safe outcome. So, you really need to familiarize yourself with the canopy release, and the ejection seat if
@Frank v B has been kind enough to furnish one for you. Your life may (will likely) depend on them. Here is a link to your POH which will make for some good, thought-provoking bedtime reading. In particular see Section IV, p. 52.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwid5JT_tLDZAhVl4YMKHeXfB0cQFggpMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jasonblair.net%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2015%2F06%2FPilots-Manual-for-F4U-Corsair-Aviation-Pubs-1977.pdf&usg=AOvVaw28CrRAkG0gxQ2RiHLffKGN
You may also want to talk to our CFI,
@bweaver , for some other survival hints (like going AWOL before the maiden flight!). Bruce is a great guy with a wealth of knowledge on such matters, and has an extensive background in fighter combat, albeit in aircraft which are a little less robust than yours, but fighters nonetheless.
Hope to see you for photos on maiden day, both before and after your flight. Better you than me!!! 8)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Andy Hoffer
Dear Mr. Hoffer,
Thank you for the cautionary note and your interest in protecting my health..... from that Frank guy.
I talked to him tonight regarding the two safety issues you pointed out.
Frank has confirmed that there will be no canopy for the maiden flight so I don't have to worry about the quick release. The canopy will probably fall off by itself before I break ground. I know who built it!
I have insisted he add an ejection seat so he promised to build one tonight and install it tomorrow. I will send you a photo tomorrow.
Life's a ***** when you draw short straw as a test pilot.
Mr. Hoffer. May you have a good and safe year at Rogo Field.
Charlie
Test Pile-it
Mr Hoffer,
My plane is now equipped with a bright red ejection seat handle. I am right handed so it is in easy reach. It blows both the cockpit hold-down bolts and starts the ejection sequence. Thank you in advance for saving my butt.
Charlie
RCAF kmag*
* kiss my a.. goodbye! :)
Dear Charlie,
I am so glad that you have made such good progress with
@Frank v B on the canopy/ejection seat release. I think he is genuinely striving for continual self improvement. But you really need to push him a bit further on this: there are supposed to
TWO safety release handles (to prevent inadvertent release of the cabin), one on either side of the cabin structure, as shown on p. 52 of the POH (excerpt attached below).
@bweaver can provide pre-flight instruction on how to use these and what to expect if you have to part company with your aircraft.
Let me know how you make out on this.
Ever watching your back,
Andy Hoffer
Dear Mr. Hoffer,
Now I've got to talk to him again and ask him for a favour. I'll approach him on the basis of it being family day today.
Gonna be tough.
Wish me luck.
Charlie
Dear Mr. Hoffer,
I talked to him.... and survived! He made a good point. If he installs double eject handles, what happens if I get shot in one arm and cannot simultaneously pull the levers? I have opted for one handle, not to go against the good judgement and abilities of the designers at Voight, but I know who built this plane. ;D
He started thinking when I said I preferred the plane to eject from me and not me from the plane. I am sure Mr. Newton will have something to say about breaking one of his rules but it will keep Frank busy going around in circles. ;) Reminds me of the Pink Panther break-in scene (at 0:55 run time but worth watching the first 1:20 as a lead-in).
Forever grateful,
Charlie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNUNwlex-VE
Quote from: Frank v B on February 19, 2018, 10:20:22 AM
Dear Mr. Hoffer,
I talked to him.... and survived! He made a good point. If he installs double eject handles, what happens if I get shot in one arm and cannot simultaneously pull the levers? I have opted for one handle, not to go against the good judgement and abilities of the designers at Voight, but I know who built this plane. ;D
He started thinking when I said I preferred the plane to eject from me and not me from the plane. I am sure Mr. Newton will have something to say about breaking one of his rules but it will keep Frank busy going around in circles. ;) Reminds me of the Pink Panther break-in scene (at 0:55 run time but worth watching the first 1:20 as a lead-in).
Forever grateful,
Charlie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNUNwlex-VE
Thanks so much Charlie! My sides will be aching for a week!!!
Andy