Toronto Electric Model Aviation Club Forum

Why not build another airplane!!  It has been a while.  I was shocked to find I had only 51 RC airplanes* in my shop when last week's photo contest was run.  Need one more to have a stable of aircraft so I can crash one per week and survive a whole year. ;D

This is the 1/2 A Taylorcraft from Micro-X.  38" span, 200 sq inches, and designed for an .049 gas engine.  Bought the kit from Ken Rawlins last year when he was weeding out his shop.

Photo 1- shows the cover of the box
Photo 2- inside the kit.  The ribs and formers are die-cut.  The thicker balsa for the fuse and wing tips are 3/16" balsa and need to be cut out.
Photo 3- the plan on my work table with wax paper over top.

So far have cut out the ribs and fuse parts.  Will start glueing on Sunday since I will be busy with family stuff on the weekend during the day.

The thought is to power it with an Astro geared .010 Mighty Micro bought from Michael several years ago.

Frank

* plus 2 R/C submarines, 2 R/C tugs, 2 R/C sailboats and a 34" PT109 in progress

Hi @Frank v B ,

While I fully endorse your decision to round out at your stable at "52", which was a superb vintage year for pilot nativity, I am terribly concerned that the aircraft you have selected is not suited to the anticipated mission.  Attention to the box cover indicates that while this Taylorcraft model performs "loops, spins, stalls, Immelmans and Cuban eights", the capability roster does not include the most important requisite maneuver, i.e. the "Van Beuren", more commonly known as the "face plant", "Post Hole" or "Hot Dogger Auger".

Please consider donating your model to someone who can provide the appropriate care and feeding of this wonderful aircraft, or at a minimum building it out of ballistic sponge rubber.  As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI, @bweaver , to avoid overstressing the airframe.

Most respectfully yours,

Andy Hoffer

Are your sure @Andy Hoffer  :o
This plane has sort of a pointy cowling.... good for digging deep into the terra-firma( :-* the earth)
and with the wheel pants that look like plows... this plane cold make some awesome furrows as it skims the surface trying to stay aloft  :'( 
It does have a solid  >:(  framing that looks like it could take it on any type of landing ;D

Re - @Frank v B s comment: Why not build another airplane!!  It has been a while.  I was shocked to find I had only 51 RC airplanes* in my shop when last week's photo contest was run.  Need one more to have a stable of aircraft so I can crash one per week and survive a whole year. ;D

Frank, it is unlikely that you can resist yourself to only bring one plane to the field once a week. Having said that, I am glad to see though that you are posting another aircraft building post outlining your construction techniques.  I have learned so much from them...  PS you also need to be considerate of Mayden Fest.

Re - @Andy Hoffer s comment: As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI, @bweaver , to avoid overstressing the airframe.

Overstressing the airframe, nothing - overstressing the CFI, absolutely.

Re - All of @BJROB s comments. You've got the ticket... I am glad to see someone else admires recognizes Franks abilities skills.

Andy,

re:"Attention to the box cover indicates that while this Taylorcraft model performs "loops, spins, stalls, Immelmans and Cuban eights""
I noticed a major omission when I took the picture.  Apparently it cannot do straight and level flight.  Neither can I. ;D

re: "As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI..."
Bruce is so wanting to change the word "Buddy box".  I am sure you can come up with other names.... like "Foe Box"

re: Bruce's "stress" comment.  Enjoy it Mr. CFI!! ;)  My job is to dish it out.  Your job is to take it in stride.

Frank

I think I have a solution which will put @Frank v B  at ease.  If we simply augment his prop spinner with the illustrated appliance, which is covered by a Technical Standard Order (TSO), we can then get the necessary Supplemental Type Certificate (STC) for the plane.  Then Frank can plant at will in full regulatory compliance, and save wear and tear on his props, accruing savings which will allow further aircraft acquisitions and masterful construction blogs. For extra peace of mind @bweaver can supervise the maiden flight as act as Frank's spotter to facilitate recovery.   8)

Andy

Andy,

re: " If we simply augment his prop spinner with the illustrated appliance"

That photo is of an ice auger for ice fishermen.  Clearly an implement you use for winter flying.  I don't fly in the winter for two reasons:
1) I am twice as sane than you are....... two times zero is still zero. 8)
2) real farmers don't plant in winter.  A spade would be more useful for me than an ice auger.

Frank

Let's build!

Hopefully you will see a few new tricks on the way.

A few decisions before we start gluing stuff... to our fingers.

1) am building with wood glue Lepage's Express glue- not 5 minute epoxy... for once.
2) the wood sticks in the kit are on the heavy side.  Will use it on the outside corners and new lighter stuff on the cross braces .... just because it feels good.
3) Will change it to 4 channel by adding ailerons.  Hope to show you how to add barn door (not strip) ailerons to a 3 channel wing.  That means reducing the dihedral as well.  Note: A 3 channel airplane uses dihedral to turn.  A 3 channel plane without dihedral will not turn.
4) the wing hold-down will be a nylon screw and not rubber bands as shown on the plan.
5) it will have wheels... to make furrows during low passes.  After all, we fly off a farm. ;D

Photo 87- cut the main longerons  and cross braces to length.  Two of the longerons have to be bent.  Did this by adding pins to the plans on the inside of the curve first before installing the wood strips.  Then bent the longerons around the pins and then added a few pins on the outside to maintain the bend.  Trick: when cutting the formers (vertical sticks), start with the most forward one first.  Why- if you cut wrong, you can always trim it for the second one closer to the tail because they get smaller.  If you start with the smallest one first, you have to scrap it.
Photo 88- Notice the top strip at the trailing edge of the wing is left long so the wood can bend and hold the bend.  The plans show it cut at the top of the upright at the training edge.  Also, the strip for the wing seat is left long at the leading edge of the wing just in case the pin splits the wood.
Photo 89- The cross braces have to be cut to points.  This is important to add strength.  Trick:To make the cut at the correct angle, lay the wood on top of the plans and make two cuts along the lines on the plans.  This forms a "X" as shown at the point of the XActo knife.  Cut along the X and you will have a point with perfect angles.
Photo 90- All the sticks in place.  Will let it dry overnight.  Note: I added the "X" brace behind the windows after the picture was taken.

Frank

Hi @Frank v B

I'm having trouble making out your Morse code with the pins.  Could you brighten the photos please.

Thanks!

Andy

Andy,

re: "I'm having trouble making out your Morse code with the pins."

Let me quote the RCAF*

" - - ..  - ... - .. -. .. -. . -.."  :)

RE: "Could you brighten the photos please."

Please use one of these.  See photo below. ;D

Your best friend.

Frank

* Royal Canadian Air Farce.

Building the second fuselage side:
1) remove all the pins and sand the fuse top so there are no glue bumps.  See photo 91
2) lay waxed paper over the first fuselage side and build the second fuse side directly on top.  Make sure the two halves match.... regardless of what the plans say.  Make all mistakes symmetrically and it will be fine. Photo 93
3) let dry overnight. Photo 94.

Quote from: Frank v B on March 26, 2018, 09:30:11 PM
Building the second fuselage side:
1) remove all the pins and sand the fuse top so there are no glue bumps.  See photo 91
2) lay waxed paper over the first fuselage side and build the second fuse side directly on top.  Make sure the two halves match.... regardless of what the plans say.  Make all mistakes symmetrically and it will be fine. Photo 93
3) let dry overnight. Photo 94.

Much better @Frank v B, except for the sneeze in Photo 91.   :D

Andy

Taking a stab at the stab.

Always start at the trailing edge..... because it has to be straight for the hinges to work properly.

Photo 95- start by putting a pin at each end.  Never in the middle.  Then push a metal ruler up to the wood and push against the pins.  This will make the trailing edge absolutely straight.  Then put pins in the middle and along the way to hold everything straight.

Photo 95- shows the pins in place.  Andy please note....all matching red pins.

Photo 96- shows the completed stab so it can dry overnight.  Note that I leave the ends long so I can nicely contour the corners when everything is dry.  No need to waste time during the building.
Total elapsed time... 15 minutes.

Frank

Quote from: Frank v B on March 29, 2018, 11:15:13 PM
Taking a stab at the stab.

Always start at the trailing edge..... because it has to be straight for the hinges to work properly.

Photo 95- start by putting a pin at each end.  Never in the middle.  Then push a metal ruler up to the wood and push against the pins.  This will make the trailing edge absolutely straight.  Then put pins in the middle and along the way to hold everything straight.

Photo 95- shows the pins in place. Andy please note....all matching red pins.

Photo 96- shows the completed stab so it can dry overnight.  Note that I leave the ends long so I can nicely contour the corners when everything is dry.  No need to waste time during the building.
Total elapsed time... 15 minutes.

Frank

Hi @Frank v B,

Much, much better!  But isn't the glue supposed to go on the wood instead of the work bench??  8)

Andy

Andy,

re: "But isn't the glue supposed to go on the wood instead of the work bench??  8)"


Lemme splain.  That is not glue.  This is an old person's solution to a problem.  Just cover up a problem with a new surface.

The damaged area you circled is the old sheet of drywall used as a building board.  It was the edge of the original drywall building surface...after 15 years of abuse.  The new surface is drywall taped on top of an Ikea door and is the new building surface.  It was for the RedEagle build class so I could build during the week and bring the board to the class.  The RedEagle was finished but the board stayed.  It nicely covered the old beaten up surface.  The edge you circled is butchered original drywall.
This is just like old people when they redecorate a house.  Three layers of paint and two layers of wallpaper...wallpaper to hold everything together.  I am building on the 3rd surface.  Two to go.  ;D

I am not changing it until it looks like the back of my RepairMobile. 8)

Frank

I can help you @Frank v B.

Andy

Andy,

re: "I can help you"

I am beyond help!  ... and loving it. 8)

Frank

Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank

Details....

Photo 00- One weakness in the design is the key for the fin that slots into the top of the fuselage.  The wood grain runs parallel to the top of the fuselage.  Wood always splits along the grain, not across it*.  The bottom of the rudder has the same problem.  The tail wheel attaches to it.  A quick solution: drill 1/16" diameter holes in the wood and shove a round toothpick with glue into the wood.  Cut off the excess once dry.

Photo 01- line the fuse on the inside with 1/16 balsa.  I substituted light balsa for the heavier stuff that came with the kit.

Frank

* unless you drill the plane into the ground.  Then balsa will break every which way, regardless of the grain direction.  Andy can teach this course entitled: "Aiding and abetting gravity.  How to vapourize balsa" :)  Andy is off for a few days because he is trying to feed matzah balls to the Easter Bunny.  ;)

Joining the fuse sides...

Photo 02- The main former glued in place.  Supported by a triangle for squareness.  Let it dry.
Photo 03 - joining the 2 fuse halves.  Note: I do the two main formers first.  They are at the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing.  By not joining the nose or the tail end, there is no stress on the fuselage.  It can be built true and square.  Once dry, then the tail is drawn together and glued, then the nose around the firewall (still to be installed).
photo 04- Trueing the fuse.  A triangle is put up to the fuselage at the back to make sure the two sides are true to each other.  You need to start square to end square.

Yes, I have switched to 5 minute epoxy so I can build during household chores.  Will be back in an hour or two.

The words "5 minute epoxy" and "in an hour or two" should make flames come out of Bruce's nostrils. 8)


Frank

ps: Andy.  Just in case you are analyzing the items in the background and periphery... in photo 02 just above the orange Home Depot contractor's pencil is a label reading "Venco".  All Dutchmen know that is salted liquorice and is one of the essential food groups.

joining the tail end of the fuselage:

Main steps
- mark the centreline at the base of the two main formers
- draw a datum line on your building board.
- pin the fuselage middle to the datum line
- draw the tail end together with glue and clamps.  Make sure the joint is over the datum line.
- check that the front former is on the datum line (it is off the building board).

Photo 05- fuse placed over the datum line.  You can see the magic marker lines on the bottom of the two formers.

Photo 06- tail end glued and clamped over the datum line

Photo 07- top view of the cabin at the wing location.

Back to doing chores. :(

Frank

Looking great, Frank!  This is going to be a pretty little plane.

Thanks for the detailed description. 

Thanks Piker. Your Tricks with Sticks (Cadet Senior) inspired me to build it.

Have been back at it a few times:

- filled in the cross braces after the fuselage halves were joined.
- installed a landing gear plate.  The original drawings had it sewn to the main Former at the windshield but I wanted this left open for radio access and ventilation.
- installed the firewall.  The original design was for an .049.  Am putting in a Supertigre 370 (over-powered).  The firewall had to move forward an inch.  Made the firewall by taking one of the two lite ply ones supplied and epoxying 1/32 plywood to both sides.  Incredibly strong.
- Decided to make the fuse top front from 1/16" balsa.  The large block in the photo was for this purpose.  Heavy wood.  No thanks.  Need this for a battery hatch.

Photo 09- shows the fuse from the front.  The motor is beside the fuse (a bell motor).
Photo 10- shows the fuse behind the wing area.  The balsa block was the one supplied for the top ahead of the windshield.  The green tape was to hold the back from pulling apart when the nose was pulled into the firewall.
Photo 11- shows the new plywood landing gear plate with balsa braces.

...letting it dry overnight.  The wing is next.

Frank

Quote from: Frank v B on March 30, 2018, 10:35:41 PM
Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank

Actually, the real benefit @Frank v B 's of out-of-focus photos is that they obscure the zillion pin-hole perforations which allow the plane to dismember itself neatly in a controlled fashion on impact, regardless of the aircraft orientation (which could well be anything). This allows for multiple quick and easy reconstructions of the same hull.  In addition, Frank buys his 5-minute epoxy in the gallon size, proof of his comprehensive system of total quality management for his fleet.  There is method...... 8)

Andy

Quote from: Frank v B on March 31, 2018, 03:30:27 PM
Joining the fuse sides...

Frank

ps: Andy.  Just in case you are analyzing the items in the background and periphery... in photo 02 just above the orange Home Depot contractor's pencil is a label reading "Venco".  All Dutchmen know that is salted liquorice and is one of the essential food groups.

Actually it was the renderings by Salvador Dali and Picasso on your work surface that caught my interest!

Andy

Andy,
re: Dali and Picasso

Warped!*

Frank

* nothing to do with wash-in or wash-out.

Didn't have enough time to start the wings so sheeted the bottom of the fuse and installed the motor. 

In the photo of the motor you can see the punch marks on the main former where they wanted you to drill holes and sew the landing gear onto the former.

Also, found a couple of interesting colour combos for the finished look.

Just in case you are wondering why the green tape on to motor lead.  I write the max amps, max cell count and suggested prop size on each motor I have so I don't have to look for specs.  Especially important on Turnigy motors since they are only available for a year and then change their numbering and specs.

Frank

Unfortunately the red one is on skis.  Don't get your hopes up Andy.  I still do not like planes on skis. :D

Quote from: Frank v B on April 01, 2018, 11:00:20 AM
Didn't have enough time to start the wings so sheeted the bottom of the fuse and installed the motor. 

In the photo of the motor you can see the punch marks on the main former where they wanted you to drill holes and sew the landing gear onto the former.

Also, found a couple of interesting colour combos for the finished look.

Just in case you are wondering why the green tape on to motor lead.  I write the max amps, max cell count and suggested prop size on each motor I have so I don't have to look for specs.  Especially important on Turnigy motors since they are only available for a year and then change their numbering and specs.

Frank

Unfortunately the red one is on skis.  Don't get your hopes up Andy.  I still do not like planes on skis. :D

There is absolutely no reason why you should choose the hands down best colour combination and equipment. 

Andy

Quote from: Andy Hoffer on March 31, 2018, 11:07:34 PM

Quote from: Frank v B on March 30, 2018, 10:35:41 PM
Building the rudder and fin.

The photo shows all the pieces in place and glued.  Again, the sticks were left long where there was no need to trim them.

The photo was taken as a close-up so Andy would not have anything to comment on in the background.  Now I am going to get a lecture about not-so-autofocus, shutter priority, depth of field and focal length. :D  He is retired now so we have to keep him busy.  Let's just amuse him. ;)

Frank

Actually, the real benefit @Frank v B 's of out-of-focus photos is that they obscure the zillion pin-hole perforations which allow the plane to dismember itself neatly in a controlled fashion on impact, regardless of the aircraft orientation (which could well be anything). This allows for multiple quick and easy reconstructions of the same hull.  In addition, Frank buys his 5-minute epoxy in the gallon size, proof of his comprehensive system of total quality management for his fleet.  There is method...... 8)

Andy

Hmmm....

Hey @bweaver

Do you think @Frank v B understands this post?...............

Andy

Andy,

I fully understand.  But re: your "Method" comment..... there is no method.  Just madness!! 8)

Frank

The start of the battery hatch. 

The front and back have been glued in and are drying.  One of the hatch ends near the cockpit has been done.  The hatch end is 1/16 less than the stationary part of the hatch.  Will cut everything else once the top has been sanded and properly contoured.

Cut a hole into the main former with a Dremel tool and sanding drum (not visible).  For air circulation and wiring purposes.

Frank

Reinforcing the front end:

Photo 15- doubling up on the sidewalls at the hatch so there is a flat space to put the magnets
Photo 16- inserting triangular stock in the nose so the fuse can be sanded round later on without weakening the structure.
Photo 17- attaching the magnets for the cowl.  Have inserted and glued the magnets in the fuse.  The magnets showing are on the outside of a sheet of wax paper.  The blue paint is so it transfers to the wood for the cowl in order to locate where two drill the holes for the  4 cowl magnets.
Photo 18- The paint from the fuse magnets has transferred to the wood for the cowl.  Drill there and it will match perfectly!
When glueing the magnets in place make sure you use wax paper to stop the wood from gluing to itself.  Note: the wood for the cowl is roughly sized.  Easier to sand when magnets are in place.
Photo 19- cowl is held in place to dry

Quickly... before the dinner guests come..

Photo 21- making the battery hatch.  Learned from the Corsair that a hatch is difficult to make by bending wood around a frame.  The curve is too tight at the edges.  In this case, I placed two oversize sticks at the edges (port and starboard) and a support in the middle.  Once this dries, the 3/32 balsa hatch top will be inserted between the two edges.  It will only have a very slight curve.   Most of the curve is sanded into the sticks at the edges.  Again, wax paper in place so the errant glue will not permanently attach the hatch.

Photo 22- Comparison of 2 hatch building methods.  A drawing of the head-on view of the hatch method I hated in the Corsair because it was difficult to make nicely.  The method in the Taylorcraft is a thousand times easier.  In the Corsair you had to be accurate.  In the Taylorcraft you sand everything accurate(ly).

Notice in the picture how large and how random the size is of the cowl front.  A larger overlap is easier to cut and then sand than a small one.
You can also see the bottom of the cooling/wiring hole in the main former.

Frank

Finished the battery hatch. 

Love the simplicity of the new method.  It took 5 minutes to shape it perfectly. 
Photo 23- shows the middle section pinned until the glue dries.  This was the second layer to help build it up a bit.  The wax paper is so the glue on the tongue and the magnets will not attach the hatch.
Photo 25- added a plywood tongue to the front of the hatch and added magnets to the back of the fuse.  Use the blue paint trick used earlier to locate the magnets on the hatch.
Photo 27- filler added to the hatch which I will let dry overnight.

Fuse off to the side so I can start the wing.

Frank

Start the wing.

Am adding ailerons to the wing.  This was a 3 channel design.  To get the size of the ailerons, I calculated the percentage of the span and chord on my E-Flite Taylorcraft.  Drew the ailerons on the plans in black magic marker.  They are 63% of span and 27% of chord.
Drawn on the plans.

Frank

Building the first half of the wing.  Port (left) side.  Note: I always build one wing half to completion so I can copy the same mistakes in the other wing half.  As long as all mistakes are symmetrical the plane will fly fine. ;D

Photo 29- The aileron requires 4 of the ribs to be cut. The top 3 ribs in the photo are already cut but not taped. The ribs on the inboard edge and outboard edges of the ailerons are full ribs.  The 4 ribs that the aileron cuts into have to be trimmed.  Have cut the wedges out but then taped the rib together.  The masking tape is to hold the ribs together while building the wing.  The green masking tape is attached in a "U" shape so there is no tape under the rib.  Once the wing dries, the tape will be removed and will dislodge the cut-out so a new leading edge and trailing edge can be inserted.

Photo 30- shows the tape on all 4 ribs taped plus the 2 small trailing edge riblets which will be the ends of the aileron.

Photo 31- the ribs are in place along with the lower main spar.

@Frank v B , you are now surpassing @octagon , in the 'speed category' with which you build.  ;D

Bruce, you are too kind.  Getting senile? 8) 8)  Just kidding. ;)

Cutting and building the aileron:

Photo 32 - removed the tape, cut the ribs along the score lines, installed the new aileron ends at the wing tip and inner edge.  Note that the aileron has not been cut free from the trailing edge.   This is so everything stays aligned.  Also, note the gap of the outboard aileron end piece.  The aileron needs to be smaller than wing slot because it will receive 4 thicknesses of covering.

Photo 33- shows the aileron leading edge installed on an angle and glued in place.  Yes, 5 minute epoxy.  The trailing edge of the wing is cut to length, ready to be installed.

Photo 34- the trailing edge of the wing installed.  Note that it was left wider (higher) than it needs to be.  Will sand it flush after it dries.

Frank

So.... I got a reminder from Andy that I better get back to building this plane.  His life must be getting boring. :D

I have an excuse.  Have spent my spare time on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and yesterday patching 4 storm damaged roofs for customers.  Below is proof.  The photos are of two roofs that didn't quite survive the storm last Thursday.

Frank

Back to my real purpose in life.  Getting balsa to fly!

Have been building but not posting.  Built the right (starboard) wing half on the plans while the left wing was propped up about an inch at the wingtip for dihedral.  It only took about an hour to build the second wing half and a hour to do the aileron.

Notice the carbon veil over the trailing edge center joint.

Also, cut through the cowl with a Dremel sanding drum so the prop shaft will fit.  Wanted to be able to remove the cowl front without removing the prop adapter.  Notice the 4 magnets and 2 registration pins.

Frank

The fuse is next.  Have to figure out how to attach the wing.  Will use two screws at the trailing edge but am just trying to figure out how to attach the leading edge.

The photos show the doublers at the leading edge and a balsa strip at the trailing edge for the hold-down screws.

Quote from: Frank v B on April 09, 2018, 09:14:14 PM
So.... I got a reminder from Andy that I better get back to building this plane.  His life must be getting boring. :D

I have an excuse.  Have spent my spare time on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and yesterday patching 4 storm damaged roofs for customers.  Below is proof.  The photos are of two roofs that didn't quite survive the storm last Thursday.

Frank

Am I old fashion, or is this a sign of mass production cost savings?  Where's the tar paper underlay on these roofs?  Also, did they use more than two nails per shingle tile?

Oh, and the plane it looking great!   ;D

Piker:

re: your post "Am I old fashion, or is this a sign of mass production cost savings?  Where's the tar paper underlay on these roofs?  Also, did they use more than two nails per shingle tile?"

Tar paper is only required 3' upslope the wall line (not the overhang).  Subdivision builders stick to code and that is an absolute minimum.  You and I would put Ice and Water Shield on the eaves, on each side of valleys and around skylights.

re: nails- I handled about 500 roofing insurance claims and was told by our roofer that subdivision houses use 15 year shingles* and 3-nail each shingle because that is the only way they can make money.  The difference between profit and loss is not what they do but what they hold back on.  If your roofer ever says he does subdivision houses stay the hell away from him.

Now back to building with balsa 2x4's. :D

Frank

* 15 years ago the industry made 15, 20 and 25 year shingles.  Then they arbitrarily changed 15 year shingles to 20 year shingles without changing the make-up.  Roofing and drain/foundation people are the worst cheaters in the industry. 
Acid test: if your roofer gives you a quote, ask him for his WSIB registration and manufacturer's installer's certificate for the shingles he is installing. 
WSIB (Workman's Safety and Insurance Board)The reason: if he falls off your roof while working and he does not have WSIB, you are liable. 
Installer's certificate: every shingle manufacturer has a qualification process for installers using their products.  If you have a problem and your roofer is not certified, your 20-25 year warranty is void.  The reason: roofers usually say they guarantee the installation for 5 years because they carry that warranty and the manufacturer guarantees it to the limit of the shingle warranty.  If it is not registered, you are S.O.L.

BTW - ask a roofer you are considering two more questions: 1) how long they have been a roofer? and 2) How long have you been operating under that name? If he has been a roofer for 12-15 years but been operating under that name for fewer than 5 years... run for the hills.  They declare bankruptcy every 5 years because it automatically voids all 5 year warranties.

Back to building.......

Getting ready for the Pilot's Meeting

Photo 76- installing the wing hold-down.  Cut the centre rib, used the cut-out to make the plywood tongue.  The plywood thickness was equal to thickness of the double centre rib.

Photo 77- installed two aileron servos.  Glued to the rib.  Will put a balsa plate around it so the covering has something to stick onto.  I glue aileron servos in place.  If I crash it or have to replace the servo, I will make a removable plate.  A waste of energy if I don't need it.  Note that the ailerons still have not been cut out.

Photo 78- always,always,always lock in servo extension connectors.  I use dental floss and a drop of glue on the knot.

Photo 79- the leading edge tongue glued in place with 1/32 plywood glued to each side of the centre rib.

Photo 80- The slot in the top of the cabin to keep the wing centred.  Note the wing saddle on the left (port) side.  Glued 1/32 balsa to the top to lift that side of the wing up a bit.  Will do it accurately once the wing bolt is drilled and tapped.

Hey Andy... notice how I have Hofferized the photographs by using two sheets of paper and slipping them in the camera field so you can't do the Rorschach test on the paint drops and pen marks in the background of each photo. ;D ;D  Now all you can do is critique the shadows in each photo. ;)

Frank

Quote from: Frank v B on April 10, 2018, 09:26:31 PM
Piker:

re: your post "Am I old fashion, or is this a sign of mass production cost savings?  Where's the tar paper underlay on these roofs?  Also, did they use more than two nails per shingle tile?"

Tar paper is only required 3' upslope the wall line (not the overhang).  Subdivision builders stick to code and that is an absolute minimum.  You and I would put Ice and Water Shield on the eaves, on each side of valleys and around skylights.

re: nails- I handled about 500 roofing insurance claims and was told by our roofer that subdivision houses use 15 year shingles* and 3-nail each shingle because that is the only way they can make money.  The difference between profit and loss is not what they do but what they hold back on.  If your roofer ever says he does subdivision houses stay the hell away from him.

\Now back to building with balsa 2x4's. :D

Frank

* 15 years ago the industry made 15, 20 and 25 year shingles.  Then they arbitrarily changed 15 year shingles to 20 year shingles without changing the make-up.  Roofing and drain/foundation people are the worst cheaters in the industry. 
Acid test: if your roofer gives you a quote, ask him for his WSIB registration and manufacturer's installer's certificate for the shingles he is installing. 
WSIB (Workman's Safety and Insurance Board)The reason: if he falls off your roof while working and he does not have WSIB, you are liable. 
Installer's certificate: every shingle manufacturer has a qualification process for installers using their products.  If you have a problem and your roofer is not certified, your 20-25 year warranty is void.  The reason: roofers usually say they guarantee the installation for 5 years because they carry that warranty and the manufacturer guarantees it to the limit of the shingle warranty.  If it is not registered, you are S.O.L.

What forum is this?  ROOFERS R US?

Andy

re: your question Roofers are Us. 

Only applies to those people who are singing Raindrops keep falling on my head..... ;D

Piker asked a question.... he gets an answer.  You might even learn something. :)  Scary thought!

Frank

Quote from: Frank v B on April 10, 2018, 11:46:20 PM
Andy

re: your question Roofers are Us. 

Only applies to those people who are singing Raindrops keep falling on my head..... ;D

Piker asked a question.... he gets an answer.  You might even learn something. :)  Scary thought!

Frank

@Frank v B - Congratulations!  You have just demonstrated that you are fully qualified to join the Morning Crew.

I've got a new steel roof.  Good for 100 years!   ;D

Oh, and nice plane Frank.

Quote from: Frank v B on April 10, 2018, 11:46:20 PM
Andy

re: your question Roofers are Us. 

Only applies to those people who are singing Raindrops keep falling on my head..... ;D

Piker asked a question.... he gets an answer.  You might even learn something. :)  Scary thought!

Frank

@Frank v B ,

I know @bweaver is a very tolerant and understanding guy, but it's awfully harsh to call him "Andy".   8)

Andy

Sorry Andy and Bruce,

You guys are so interchangeable.... just like Eric and Stephan. 8) 8)

So now we have 3 blind mice.

Frank

Got word from Andy that because of the ice/rain in the forecast this weekend I better keep building this so he can critique my work/photos/life/friendships/enemies/pets/car/lack of skill. 8)
Someone give this man a real job.... please! ;D

Servos- Installed the servos last night.  Used a fairly hefty balsa stick as servo rails.  It will strengthen the fuse since the rails are at the pinch point for hand-launches.

Wing bolt- Installed the wing hold-down bolt.  Threaded the balsa and put watered-down carpenters glue on the 10-24 threads.  Will re-tap it today.

Sanded all the parts, trimmed joints, added a windshield former.  Picked out the covering and the colour combo from web images.

Gentlemen... start your covering irons.


Frank

Quote from: Frank v B on April 14, 2018, 10:50:28 AM
Got word from Andy that because of the ice/rain in the forecast this weekend I better keep building this so he can critique my work/photos/life/friendships/enemies/pets/car/lack of skill. 8)
Someone give this man a real job.... please! ;D

Servos- Installed the servos last night.  Used a fairly hefty balsa stick as servo rails.  It will strengthen the fuse since the rails are at the pinch point for hand-launches.

Wing bolt- Installed the wing hold-down bolt.  Threaded the balsa and put watered-down carpenters glue on the 10-24 threads.  Will re-tap it today.

Sanded all the parts, trimmed joints, added a windshield former.  Picked out the covering and the colour combo from web images.

Gentlemen... start your covering irons.


Frank

SOOOOO many delicious choices!! So nice of @Frank v B  to give me a good starting point.  Now, where to begin.............!   8)

Andy

Quote from: Frank v B on April 14, 2018, 10:50:28 AM
Got word from Andy that because of the ice/rain in the forecast this weekend I better keep building this so he can critique my work/photos/life/friendships/enemies/pets/car/lack of skill. 8)
Someone give this man a real job.... please! ;D

Servos- Installed the servos last night.  Used a fairly hefty balsa stick as servo rails.  It will strengthen the fuse since the rails are at the pinch point for hand-launches.

Wing bolt- Installed the wing hold-down bolt.  Threaded the balsa and put watered-down carpenters glue on the 10-24 threads.  Will re-tap it today.

Sanded all the parts, trimmed joints, added a windshield former.  Picked out the covering and the colour combo from web images.

Gentlemen... start your covering irons.

Frank

It never fails to amaze me how much inspiration you can get from @Frank v B !  In today's episode the Secretary-Treasurer of TEMAC was so deeply moved by Frank's evocative Taylorcraft build presentation at the April Pilots Meeting that he ran out and scratch-built a scale freezing rain protective covering for his 1/3-scale Monster RC Transport Truck.  The best part is that the freezing rain is self-sealing and keeps the covering from flapping around in high winds!! (@Frank v B will be so proud of me!!!)  I am looking forward to providing dramatic proof-of-concept photos after Sunday's ice storm!!!   8)

Andy

Hey Andy,

Nice job matching the covering for your car with your garage door. ;)

It's the details in life that are important.

Frank

Getting ready for covering.

- painted the windshield area black (anti-glare) and added the braces.
- painted the area around the windows white to match the covering.

The paint is just the cheap stuff from the dollar store.

The first job is to cover the windows.  Will use clear Monokote instead of celluloid.  The clear covering will work its way around the compound curves of the windshield.

Now let's see if this is true.

Frank

Sigh...I'm just not getting through to @Frank v B .  (He needs to open up at least 1 stop when shooting a white subject on a white background.....)  If I could just get him alone for a couple of hours I think I could fix this........ ::)

Andy

Andy,

Taken out of context, your statement is soooooo tempting:

"He needs to open up at least 1 stop when shooting a white subject...."

You are such a white subject! ;D ;) 8)

Frank

Update!

Worked hard this weekend to finish the Taylorcraft.

- windshield and windows from clear Monokote are in place.  Worked great on the flat windows, a 5/10 for the windshield.  A few wrinkles in it. I will invoke the 50/50* rule.
- covered the fuselage, stab, elevators, fin and rudder, hatch and cowl.
- cut out the ailerons and sanded the edges.

Just have to cover the wings and ailerons.  Then add the trim colours.

The end is in sight.


Frank

* 50/50 rule: if you can't see the mistake at 50 feet and 50 miles an hour it is not worth wasting time fixing it.

Quote from: Frank v B on April 16, 2018, 09:39:05 PM
Update!

Worked hard this weekend to finish the Taylorcraft.

- windshield and windows from clear Monokote are in place.  Worked great on the flat windows, a 5/10 for the windshield.  A few wrinkles in it. I will invoke the 50/50* rule.
- covered the fuselage, stab, elevators, fin and rudder, hatch and cowl.
- cut out the ailerons and sanded the edges.

Just have to cover the wings and ailerons.  Then add the trim colours.

The end is in sight.


Frank

* 50/50 rule: if you can't see the mistake at 50 feet and 50 miles an hour it is not worth wasting time fixing it.

Andy 8)

Each one of those stalks has been fertilized with foam, balsa or fibreglass.  They got to 7 feet tall.  We sure worked hard last summer. ;D

Frank

ps: re: the photo: the bad news is "corn.  The good news is it is summer!.  This year "summer" will be from July 15-25. :'(

After three days of furious covering:

- all elements are covered, ready for the trim colour (red)
- elevator and rudder have been hinged.
- windshield and windows in place.

Now on to the trim covering, striping and aileron hinging.

Frank

hey @Frank v B ,

Where's Charlie?!!!!

Andy

Looking good Frank! 

Mayden Fest is just days away.  :)

Woke both of you up eh Bruce and Andy. ;D

Andy- Charlie is in the works.  He refuses to fly another plane for me until he has survived the Corsair maiden. Have to go to plan B.

Bruce: re:"Looking good Frank! "
That's two compliments out of you.  Are you going soft?

Tonight is trim colours and aileron hinging.


Frank

Hey Frank!  Can you explain how you cover a plane?   ;D

But seriously... are those rear cabin drapes?

Robert

Piker,

picky, picky.

When I did the post I saw them in the photo, put the stuff back in the shop and immediately cut the "curtains" at the back of the cabin.  They are gone. ;)  The plane should be Piker-approved now.

Frank

First assembly of the parts.  Looking like a plane.  Tail feathers pinned in place while the glue cures.

Still to do:
- connect the servos to the flying surfaces
- wheels
- tail wheel assembly
- prop, battery hold-down etc.
- working on a pilot figure.  Charlie refuses to fly this one.

There is a finish line.

Frank

@Frank v B ,The plane is looking even better now with some color.  But tell me,  have you moved into the kitchen or bathroom as part of your workshop?  Your time with Kate and I hasn't gone to waste.

:-*

Yes!  The planes IS looking very nice now that the covering is trimmed up properly and some colour is added.

I'm thinking laundry room as I assume that's the top of the washing machine to the right.

Quote from: piker on April 18, 2018, 11:40:57 PM
Yes!  The planes IS looking very nice now that the covering is trimmed up properly and some colour is added.

I'm thinking laundry room as I assume that's the top of the washing machine to the right.

Even if it is the laundry room, that's a step up too.

I think it looks lovely Frank.

Do you have any tips for cutting and applying trim pieces of covering?

Replies to your questions/statements:

- yes it is the laundry room.  I built the base cabinet with Ikea doors but built the countertop at exactly the same height as the tops of the washer/dryer.  Very useful feature to keep in mind when Piker designs and builds his.

- I took the picture in the laundry room because it was a clean horizontal surface.  The floor was taken.  The Corsair photos were taken in the laundry room as well.  Consistent at least.

- Simon, re adding trim:  The red trim on the fuselage was Solarfilm.  Only three things to keep in mind- cut the trim with a new #11 blade, use a steel ruler and cut on a hard surface.  The best cutting surface is a piece of glass.  It is flat and doesn't dull the blade.  The small trim stripe the length of the fuselage is Canadian Tire car striping tape.

Frank

  Frank
  She is a Beauty!
I have a Adrian Page 40" Super Cub I will have to get covered. It has been languishing for a couple of years in a state of "almost built". Time to change that. Then I can share the sky with you and the "T"-Craft!

  Glenn