Scratch Building Class - Norseman Build

[piker]

That DOES look great, Bill. 

Of course I agree with you.  The Norseman does need floats 

[gmcnic]

Very nice, Bill.
Hope you keep it lighter than this one in the video 

http://youtu.be/e3MrKt1yh3E

[piker]

If Bill's Norseman takes that long to take off, I think we're going to need a bigger bay!

Nice video though.  nice calm water 

[Frank v B]

Interesting video.  Have a look at the position of the elevator during the entire take-off run.  He puts it down once and the plane does not react. 


Frank

[Papa]

Notice  how he lifts the right float first to break adhesion and then the left. They all seem to do that on take off.


jack.

[Wingnutz]

Wow! What a cool video!      The fact that the vid's shot from the moving boat takes away the boat's speed from the Norseman's apparent speed which wasn't very high to start with...found myself wondering if the end of the lake or lift-off was gonna happen first or if the guy had an RC prop on a full -sized plane! Thanks Graham!
Reading the TEMAC analysis of the take-off run is like a short course in float-flying...gonna check my weight, amps and prop again!
Jack...will do a flight with a 2 blader but the 3 blader looks good on a floatplane!
Ed, will re-take the photos to you taste.
Happy Float Flying this weekend! May you lift-off before the end of the bay!

[Wingnutz]

Want to put floats on my Norseman and with that in mind, not sure where to put the ESC so that it gets air for cooling and is as protected as possible from spray and/or immersion.
Photo shows the motor and battery where they're going to be, with the ESC hanging loose. Any suggestions or thoughts about where to put the ESC appreciated.

[Papa]

Just spray the esc with Corrosion X and put it on the side of the cowl above the battery.


Jack.

[Wingnutz]

Thanks Jack. After trying the ESC in a variety of places, I've decided your suggested location will allow me to plug and unplug the battery with the least fuss. Hopefully the Corrosion X will address ESC waterproofing concerns. I'm still going to have to take the prop off to connect the battery as I'm not anxious to stick my hands through the prop arc to plug in.
Picture below shows the components test fitted to the firewall. Heineken is for Ed.
Don't think I'm going to have too much trouble getting the CG far enough forward!

[Papa]

If you put a master switch in the battery loop going through the prop is no problem.


Jack.

[Wingnutz]

Jack,
Again thanks. A switch sounds better than removing the prop! How do I find out about switches?

[gmcnic]

Firstly, I am NO expert!
I was thinking to put a switch in the Beaver before replacing the DX6i with a toggle switch for the throttle cut which originally had a hold-down push button.

The Apprentice S does use a switch between the ESC/BEC and the receiver on the (+) lead.  (So nothing works until the switch is turned on as the receiver is getting no power.)

A good place for small slider switches and other electronics is SAYAL.
There is one on the south-east corner of Woodbine Ave and 14^th Ave which might be convenient for you, Bill.

I think if you put a switch between the battery-ESC or the ESC-motor, it will have to be quite large due to higher current rating required.  (This is where I'm hoping the "experts" jump in...)

Here's a link to SAYAL website and some photos of the Apprentice S setup.

http://www.sayal.com/STORE/ActionIndexP.asp?ID=180302

[Wingnutz]

Yeah, I know...this is a really old thread. But my Norseman finally flew after two years in the build process AND thanks to Graham McNicoll, I have video to silence the skeptics (Andre the skeptic, but who's naming names?) who claim it never flew!
Thanks again to build class instructors Jack and Frank!


http://youtu.be/LG2LH8z6IYQ

[sihinch]

Very nice Bill. 3 bladed prop looks fab!

[Michael]

Fantastic!

That looks like an amazingly stable model!