Holey Laminated Warwing Batman!

Started by bweaver, August 03, 2018, 07:07:54 PM

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bweaver

Hey @vicwhit , remind me why I am doing this?  I got the drill and hole maker out and went to town.  While, not perfect, I think it will do... Remind me again Vic, why am I doing this?

Refer to the pictures below:

vicwhit

Don't know. Copying is a very high form of flattery, I guess. And you are so very flattering.

Strength, durability, performance all come into play. Just solve the motor coming off issue while you're at it. Then I can flatter you. 😉
Do it while you can.

Frank v B

Simon, your foam slayer prop will have fun with this Swiss cheese Warwing. ;D

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

sihinch

I was actually think we could strain spaghetti with it!  ;D

But I might copy it too!!!  :D

bweaver

Saved them just in case I change my mind.

bweaver

@vicwhit Re: Strength, durability, performance all come into play. Just solve the motor coming off issue while you're at it.

One of the drawbacks we haven't considered is that during an aerial entanglement, the pleasure of seeing shredded foam float down to the ground will cease to occur when it involves 2 Warwings of this nature.  This could be considered a disappointment for some (including me). 

I am also going to have a crack at solving the 'motor coming off issue' as well.  The trusty old orange crates will come into play.  After applying the laminate to the fuselage and before installing the triangular motor mount stock, I am going to install plywood reinforcing not just on one side, but on both sides of the front portion of the fuselage.  (Each piece of plywood will be lightened using the same hole boring technique that was used on the foam.)

BACK THE BUILD:

Before applying the reinforcing plastic laminate, I got out the Dollar Store paint and applied MY COLOUR SCHEME to the Warwing. This time I am using a foam brush (isn't that fitting?) to apply the paint. 

I always use red wing tips on the top side of the plane along with a black cockpit canopy.  This helps for orientation purposes and I have a better chance of routinely identifying my plane while flying in heavy traffic and to avoid trying to fly someone else's plane by mistake.  (This has been known to happen, without success, might I add.)

Now I am going to go look for that heavy warm thing that Katie used to use to remove wrinkles from fabric clothing and other textiles.  (Boy, I haven't seen that thing in a long time!  I hope it is still around.)

Refer to the photos below.



vicwhit

True. Those floating foamy bits are a crowd-pleaser.
Do it while you can.

bweaver

I found the heavy heaty thing that Kate used to use.  I dusted it off, plugged it in, put on an apron and it readily laminated the wing and fuselage without any problems.   

The wing was laminated with a heavier grade of plastic laminate, and the fuselage was laminated with a thinner laminate.  I think the amount of strength built into the wing is OVER-KILL and the strength of the fuselage is about right.  Next time I will use the lighter laminate for both purposes.

The laminate was overturned on all edges of the wing.  The elevons were separately laminated top and bottom to allow for free movement of the hinges. The bottom of the fuselage remains exposed foam.

I have tested the functionality of the Gorilla glue for attaching the foam to laminate and find that it isn't worth a s--t.

For this reason, I plan on pre-drilling holes in the laminate to allow using Gorilla glue to attach the fuselage to the wing and for the reinforcement ply panels and motor mount pieces.   The drilled holes in the laminate will expose the foam underneath so that the glue will effectively be able to bind foam to foam and foam to wood.

So far I think the Warwing is going to be indestructible, as Vic's has already demonstrated, but with plywood reinforcing for the motor mount.   I am not going to use the plywood on both sides of the fuselage as previously indicated.  I am now going to use plywood on one side of the fuselage only and apply plywood reinforcing to the opposite bottom foam skid after laminating it.  Then the quarter stock motor mount pieces will be cut and glued and the firewall attached.

Refer to the photos below.




vicwhit

Gorilla loses to laminate. So true. There is no surface "fuzz" on the laminate for the glue to hold onto.
I recommend cutting a slot in the top and bottom surfaces of the wing wide enough for the fuselage pieces. You will have a foam to foam surface for the gorilla glue to grab. Cut out any ooze and the you can iron in a 1 inch strips to cover the joints. That will reduce side strike vulnerability.

Oh, and laminate the bottom fuselage too. It slides on the grass nicely.
Do it while you can.

Crazyflyer

BTW, this type of laminate does not stick well to house paint (house paint takes years to fully dry). I made that mistake on a few wings.
If you have already painted the foam, you may want to spray 3M77, let it dry and then apply the laminate, it will definitely help.
For my EPP wings (chemical resistant) I learned that the strongest laminate bond is done by first applying 3m90, letting it dry, spray painting it, then applying the laminate. It makes it very difficult to peel off.
Not sure if this will work with the blue foam, but the 3M77 will definitely work and help stick. 3M90 is a much stronger glue, harder to find in stores, not sure how it reacts to blue foam but I can try it and let you know.
Stephan

bweaver

Thanks @Crazyflyer (Stephan) for your suggestions.   

I use 3m medical tape for the elevon hinges.  I think that is enough quality for any Warwing I build.  The dollar store paint adheres very well to the blue foam and the laminate appears to be holding to the paint as well.  Time and a few rough challenges will tell how reliable the laminate bond is.

Refer to the latest photo below.  Before gluing the fuselage to the wing. I drilled tons of holes (as if that's possible) in the laminate on the wing and as previously mentioned the bottom of the fuselage was not laminated.  I similarly drilled more holes in the laminate where the plywood reinforcing is attached.  I will do the same with the laminate where the wooden triangular motor mounting stock attaches as well.  I think this will make a fantastic bond resulting from the Gorilla glue expanding into the holes and creeping under the laminate beside the holes.

I hope to have the Warwing ready for a maiden pre-student night later today.

bweaver

Finished!  Ready to maiden.

The first photo depicts what I mean by a ton of holes.

The second photo depicts the precision tools used to finish this aircraft.  (Aren't you glad you have some Richard?)

The last picture reflects the finished product.  I simply transferred all the electronics from what was left of Warwing 1 (Simon's Revenge) to the new airframe.

Pretty ugly huh? But how will it perform?

Time and a few challenges will tell.

Frank v B

It flew!! I saw it.  It needs some battle scars.... quickly.  Simon, go get him! :)


Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

bweaver

Yes, it did fly very well with only the need for some minor right trim.  (I might of missed drilling a hole or two on the left side, and the battery is mounted on the left as well.  I mounted the battery higher on the fuselage than directly on the wing.  I might move it down and see if that makes a difference.

Where was your Warwing Simon?

sihinch

After the success I had covering my first foam plane with "Towercote" I've followed through on my promise of copying this construction technique....

The deadly game of cat & mouse continues!  ;D