Next Project. Sterling Models Li'l Roughneck. 22.5" span, 3 cells, E-Flite 180 and a 6 amp esc., 3 channel (rudder, elevator , throttle)
I have built this plane twice and never got it off the ground. Am aiming to correct history by making it again.
First attempt- 1968- single channel .020 Pee Wee motor- never got it off the ground but it was a cute plane. Looked like a small Astro Hog.
Second attempt- about 1990- again with an .020 but before GWS revolutionized miniature RC for the masses. Never got it off the ground and got frustrated.
This attempt- funny reading about the kit. Posts on the build described the rock hard balsa that was a Sterling Trademark. I will build it lightly using all the fine points I learned from the Guillow's Arrow.
The plan outline: https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=3102
The free plan. I still have the original plans and parts outline. https://freercplans.com/plan-lil-roughneck-1791.htm
The video- Bruce Tharpe's rudder and throttle version.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prk6S_w_lDQ
Have started cutting parts.
Frank
Cut out the main fuselage parts.
Keep going...
Photo 32- Notice the bottom of the servo has come apart.
Photo 033- same servo, bottom closed, dental floss wrapped and glued. It ain't coming apart again.
Photo 133 - the start of the fuselage
Photo 135- fuse sides joined
Photo 136- used 1/16 sq. stringers instead of 1/16" sheet. Bottom of the nose installed.
To save weight
- left out the fuse doubler on both sides.
- used 1/16" stringers on the turtle deck instead of 1/16" sheet.
- front fuse top is 1/32" instead of 1/16" on the plans.
- left out the fuse bottom sheeting behind the wing. Just used 1/16" square sticks.
- will change the wing from 1/16" fully sheeted balsa top and bottom to a regular open structure with covering.
Frank
Looks good Frank. I like the planking on the turtle deck. Are you using CA on this plane?
Rob,
Yes, I am using CA and some 5 minute epoxy. It is a bottle of thin CA that was given to me by John's Hobbies to use on the hinges for the 10cc Valiant.
Don't tell my wife. Our house is a CA-free zone.... most of the time. ;)
Frank
Fuse completed and sanded. Weighs exactly 1 oz.
Wing.
Changed the design because it was heavy.
The original design was twelve widely spaced 1/16" ribs between a top and bottom 1/16" wing skins. No trailing edge, no spars, only a 1/8" dowel for the leading edge.
Changed the design to a more standard two spar, trailing edge and 18 ribs and 3/16" square leading edge (rounded off).
The ribs had to be changed. Picked a flat bottom rib from my collection of about 30 rib templates.
Installed a trailing edge, placed a bottom spar where it was located on the rib and then filled in all the other ribs.
Once this assembly has dried, I will tackle the leading edge.
Frank
Installed the leading edge.
This wing has a fair amount of dihedral... a must to allow it to turn with only rudder and elevator.
I build both halves together but the LE, TE, and both spars are cut in the middle. Only 1 of the two center ribs was installed (right wing half).
The left wing half center ribs is not installed. This way I sand the proper angle into the spars until the proper dihedral is cut in, then make the center rib fit, then glue everything in place all at once when the dihedral is set. This way setting the center rib angle is not critical and all spars and LE, TE are perfectly aligned.
Frank
The wing dried over dinner.
- Removed the left wing from the plan, sanded the angle into the 4 sticks (upper & lower spars, leading edge and trailing edge)
- cut the center rib to shape.
- clamped some scrap balsa to a rib and determined the 2.25" dihedral.
- glued everything.
Frank
All bones. No skin.
next- have to figure out the landing gear.
Frank
looks really fun Frank. What motor will you use?
E-Flite 180 on 3 cells. The one in the video on the first post is a 180 on 2 cells.
Frank
Figured out the landing gear.
- drilled holes in the spar and embedded a plastic tube inside a soft balsa sheer web.
- formed the landing gear and added a smaller tube onto the wire where it will insert into the larger (white) wing tube.
Note: the reason for the two tubes is mostly to add thickness to the wire so it spreads the loads. Without them the wire will probably rip out on the first landing.
Two things about landing gear on tiny airplanes I learned from experience
1) undersize the wire. This way half the landing impact is absorbed by the landing gear and the other half by the plane. If the landing gear is too strong (thick) it will rip it out of the mounts.
2) Torque rods are better than coil springs to achieve the above. A torque rod is where the permanent mount into the wing is offset from where the landing gear leg first touches the wing.
- glued in the rudder and elevator servos.
Frank
ps: The second photo shows that the rib was stolen from a 60% size Junior Falcon I built about 15 years ago.
I hope, in a few years, to understand (or at least pretend) some of this.
David, David,
I guess it may come across to you as computerspeak is to me.... the guy with the flip phone. ;D
Let's try this one. (DavidSpeak in parentheses)
- built the tail cone (ass end) of the fuse. Made from 3 pieces of soft balsa on top of a 1/16" sheet to mimic the stab (horizontal ass-end wing). Photo 80.
- sanded it smooth to follow the contour of the fuse. (made it fit in.) Photo 83.
- covered the plane with film in my inventory (put clothes on it from my closet!). Photo 84.
Next- final assembly
Sorry David. Couldn't resist. ;)
Frank
I like the colours!
Thanks Michael,
A tribute to either Australia or Brasil.
Frank
That's an excellent green. I'd like to know what the process is for 2 colours on the wing... but I doubt I'd understand it. It is anything like shoes and socks?
That really does look great.
David,
There are only three things to keep in mind when applying two contrasting colours:
i) Dark over light. Always apply the lighter colour first.
ii) cut the overlapping edges with a sharp knife blade, use a steel ruler and most importantly do the cut in a single careful pass.
iii) start the second colour at the overlap. Tap the heat on one end to lock it then stretch it to the other end and tap the heat, then carefully attach the rest of the overlap edge.
Frank
Nice Frank. Great colour combination.
Thanks Rob.
The photo shows the tail end pieces. They go on either side of the fin. They are covered on the outside only. I have left the covering about 1/16" long at the edges so it folds and fills the glue gap. Once the glue has dried, I go over the edge with the covering iron.
Frank
Fin & rudder installed. The rudder is hinged with covering material.
The fin was installed after the glue dried on the stab. The fin is then set 90 degrees to the stab. The triangle holds the right angle until the glue dries.
The two tail cone pieces are in place on either side of the fin (with the pins in them).
Next
- motor installation
- pushrods
- landing gear.
Frank
The final entry! Yes!
The photos show:
Photo 87- The horns are glued in. The rudder and elevator are clamped neutral and the servos are neutral so the horns can only dry perfectly neutral.
Photo 88- The wheels. I did not want to use collars because they are wide and heavy. To secure the wheels I added a piece of waxed paper, put on a small washer and added 5 minute epoxy. The trick is to let the epoxy harden for 4 minutes and 30 seconds when it has become a bit firm and spin it around the axle on top of the washer. The waxed paper stops the epoxy from hitting the wheel bearing. After the epoxy has cured, rip away the waxed paper. The wheel on the left shows the waxed paper. The wheel on the right is ready to go.
Photo 89-I used a piece of 1/16" balsa as a spacer to keep the wheel away from the landing gear leg.
photo 94- the gear is held in place with screws that have washers built-in.
Photo 95, 96,97. Finished L'il Roughneck.
Total weight- exactly 5 oz with a 3 cell 180 mah battery and 9 amp ESC.
DONE!!!!
Frank
She's a stunner.
I think we're going to need a sign-up sheet with dates and times... not only for all the planes... but to make sure everybody gets a chance to see all the first flights.
She's a pretty little plane Frank. The orange prop is a tip of the hat to your heritage. Good job pal.
Maidened the L'il Roughneck on Saturday and it flew well despite the gusty cross wind.
It took off in about 3 feet and flew fine. The only problem was turning. Luckily I had installed at 72 meg transmitter which allows instant full trim adjustments. To turn, I had to give full deflection then jam the trim over fully. This was for both left and right turns. A little hairy.
It would have been difficult to fly on 2.4 gig with digital trim (slow).
Changed the servo horn with a longer one with an extra hole. That should solve the problem. If still a problem after the next flight I will increase the rudder size 30%.
The neat part was knowing the power was fun and fine. Did a loop from level flight. Used an E-Flite 180 on three 180 mah cells.
Frank
Update:
From the maiden flight report in the previous post "The only problem was turning." The second flight was little better with the increased throws of the longer servo horn.
The last time I checked, turning is kinda important. ;D
Made a new rudder that was larger and has a counterbalance on top to add to the lateral area (increased fin and rudder area).
Ran out of yellow covering so it is green. The photo shows the new rudder in place while holding the old one for comparison.
Will try it out this weekend. The change can't hurt.
Frank
June 4 2020
@Frank v B demonstrates the blistering performance of 600 watts per pound with an FM TX on his L'il Roughneck. :D
I knew the rips and gouges on the Geotex runway couldn't be just from prop strikes!
(These photos were made using Frank's photo techniques to enhance authenticity.)
Andy
Andy,
You call photographic failures "technique".
TSK TSK ;)
Frank