Building a 105" wingspan Minimoa.
The first part was to build the full flying rudder.
Happy with the results so far.
I love watching this stuff... thanks.
Elevator started yesterday, but I did not get too far...
At least all material is sourced and ready to be cut and shaped.
A lot of sanding will be required when I get back...
A bit more progress.
Stab and elevator done.
The full flying rudder is light, IMO. ;)
A suitable wheel has been selected for the fuselage. The plans only call for a 1/2 wheel made out of balsa. There is sufficient room in the fuselage to hide the full wheel.
Now on to the fuselage.
Jig was made, wood added and glue is setting.
The stab support plate was made out of ply wood, but I cannot remove the paper from it... HAAARRRRRGGG
Any suggestions?
A bit of heat with a hair dryer? Warm it up and slowly peel it off... maybe employ an extra set of hands.
Half a wheel... but that wouldn't roll very well... would it.
Beautiful progress. The 3 colour rudder covering is really nice.
Guy,
Great going. Love the "Kraft" servo drawing on the plan. It dates the kit. 8)
I will bring you a clean, 2" light foam, narrow profile wheel on Wednesday. Please bring parts of the plane to this Wednesday's Build Class.
Anything else you need?
Frank
@Frank v B , I will bring the plan and the wheel I have. See you Wednesday!
@davidk Thank you! Fun build so far.
Today's progress, wheel and fairing.
Need to cut formers F4 and F5 for fitting; that will be a little later in the new year.
More work on the Minimoa.
Not happy with the quality of the plywood I used.
The assembly is only temporary as I might buy a laser cut short kit.
I do not understand why the pictures look that way.... Frank? Andy??
Guy,
re: "I do not understand why the pictures look that way.... Frank? Andy??"
It's just Andy messing with you from a distance. He has the ability.... and the interest... to mess with us from the left coast. ;) ;)
Frank
I use "rotate left" on my "photo" program.
Guy, don't listen to Frank. If you rotate left, the pictures will be upside down. I say rotate right, or rotate left 3 times. ;D
The project is really coming along, regardless. :)
Guy,
Like this:
Frank
Bruce's advice is good though ("don't listen to Frank"). He knows I'm a Technonerd. Heck, I still have a flip phone.;D
Quote from: Frank v B on December 13, 2019, 11:37:15 PM
Guy,
Like this:
Frank
Bruce's advice is good though ("don't listen to Frank"). He knows I'm a Technonerd. Heck, I still have a flip phone.;D
Guy, no, no, no.
Frank is so knowledgeable I emulate his technical and communicative practices. I also have a flip phone. But mine is new. ;D ;D ;D
Further, I still have my fishing pole transmitter and receiver with an exceptionally long piece of wire that would trail behind an aircraft. (In this context the word 'would' is used in the past tense. I have moved along a little more than Frank in this regard. I keep them only for nostalgic purposes only.) ::)
And Guy, please feel free to ignore us, or for that matter you can ask/tell us to go away.
PS - As I said your project is really coming along. I look forward to following the progress.
The formers F4 and F5 need to be redone as the plywood was very poor quality, as you can see by the now correctly oriented pictures.
Two wrongs do not make a right, three rights make a left...
Thank you Bruce and Frank for your technological insights.
The other things I noted with this build include:
1- Do not use cheap wood, you will have bad results
2- The alignment of the landing gear needs to be adjusted
3- The wheel needs to sit lower
4- The fuselage crutch is corrctly aligned (I was shocked too :o )
5- Make copies of the plan BEFORE you start cutting into it...
6- Gluing plans and patterns to the wood to assist with cuting helps, but is a pain to remove.
All the best,
Guy
ps: Payment for the annual membership on its way soon...
Guy,
re:The other things I noted with this build include:
1- Do not use cheap wood, you will have bad results
2- The alignment of the landing gear needs to be adjusted
3- The wheel needs to sit lower
4- The fuselage crutch is corrctly aligned (I was shocked too :o )
5- Make copies of the plan BEFORE you start cutting into it...
6- Gluing plans and patterns to the wood to assist with cuting helps, but is a pain to remove.
An expert has made every mistake once and learned.
An idiot makes each mistake more than once.
See the difference? ;) ;)
Keep building! Looking good.
Frank
More progress:
1- re-cut the formers F4 and F5.
2- cut all formers in 1/8 balsa
3- glued all formers except F1
Oh My, Gosh Darn It!! What have I done now???!!??
I glued F-10 upside down. :-[
Will need to cut another one...
C'est la vie!
Wait... but won't that help with inverted flight???
Plywood 1/16 ribs done. Many more to follow...
Progress on Minimoa, rib construction.
The first photo shows the center punk used to, you guessed it, center the location of the hole for the wing joining tube.
#2 shows the brass tube, sliding over the center punch.
#3 shows the result after the the brass tube is lowered.
#4 shows the results after the spar has been cut.
The spars (top and bottom) should be 1/8 by 3/8. I have 1/4 by 3/8.
Question: Should I cut the spaces in the ribs deeper and use the 1/4 or should I sand/plane the wood down to 1/8?
Thank you for your suggestions.
Guy
One more question concerning the ribs.
The holes for the connecting rods are very close to the edges.
There is little room for reinforcement to increase the rigidity.
As his area will be subject to high stress (duh) how can it be strengthened?
Thank you for your suggestions.
Guy
Quote from: GuyOReilly on February 27, 2020, 10:39:23 PM
One more question concerning the ribs.
The holes for the connecting rods are very close to the edges.
There is little room for reinforcement to increase the rigidity.
As his area will be subject to high stress (duh) how can it be strengthened?
Thank you for your suggestions.
Guy
Take larger pictures and it will increase the space between the rods and edges. (At least in theory.) :-[
Guy,
A stab at your questions:
1) spar- my personal comment about glider design is that the old balsa and ply ones are tender. I would split the difference. Going from 1/8 to 1/4 " is radical. 3/16 would be a nice compromise. If you want to be really cute, taper it to 1/8" per plan at the tips.
2) ribs with punched holes. If it has any kind of sheeting over it ("D" tube wing) or even cap strips I would not worry about it.
3) If your concern is over the strength of wing joiner tubes I would recommend fibreglassing the center section (1.4 oz cloth) with either epoxy of water-based urethane over the center sheeting.
Frank
Guy,
re: Bruce's "Take larger pictures and it will increase the space between the rods and edges."
A cut-and-paste from my Build class post
Guy,
Sorry you missed it.
Ask the question about the Minimoa and between the answers supplied by Bruce, Simon, Michael and myself we will have you totally messed up by the time this post is done. 8) 8) ;D ;
Bruce is back in spades. :D We are well on our way. :D
Frank
Update on the Minimoa.
Here is a picture of the left inboard portion of the wing.
I changed the wing joining and will be using a cabin fixer rod sliding inna brass tube.
I did not like the 1/8 piano wire construction shown on the plan.
Guy
PS: With this self isolation thing going on, more progress is expected soon...
I am running out of clamps...
@GuyOReilly , clothes pins could work in a pinch (pun intended). ::) If the clothes pin's tension is very strong and you are using soft balsa you may wish to avoid crushing the balsa in some way.
The construction is looking great.
I am running out of 1/16 sheets of balsa... :'(
Need to order, but where would be a reliable source?
Is going to the hobby shop needed and are they considered essential services? If not why not?? ;)
Sanity check needed. :o
These guys say they are still shipping
https://www.nationalbalsa.com/
Great Hobbies is also shipping, but no 1/16" sheet in stock
Thank you for the source of National Balsa
@pmackenzie So, here is the cost breakdown:
10 sheets of 1/16 X 3 X 36 cost: $15.40
8 sheets of 1/8 X 3 X 36 cost: $9.76
Total : $25.16
Lowest cost shipping option: $38.35 :P
Checkout total: $63.51
Above are in USD.
Converted to Canadian funds: $90.29 at the current posted rate, not the rated of the credit card companies.
Add the GST/PST/HST or taxes on the Canadian side: @ 13% of 11.74.
GRAND TOTAL: $102.03 Canadian. :o
I guess I need to find another option to keep me busy for awhile. ::)
Same order from Great Hobbies (if they had stock) would be about CDN$75 before taxes.
So the wood is cheaper, just the shipping cost versus time + fuel for driving.
The answer is to order more wood, to dilute the shipping fees :)
The other advantage of places like National Balsa is that they offer light/contest wood.
I don't know how National ships, but if it is UPS then that will make things a lot more expensive due to the brokerage fees they charge.
edit - just checked and they ship USPS to Canada.
Quote from: GuyOReilly on April 04, 2020, 09:46:17 AM
Thank you for the source of National Balsa @pmackenzie
So, here is the cost breakdown:
10 sheets of 1/16 X 3 X 36 cost: $15.40
8 sheets of 1/8 X 3 X 36 cost: $9.76
Total : $25.16
Lowest cost shipping option: $38.35 :P
Checkout total: $63.51
Above are in USD.
Converted to Canadian funds: $90.29 at the current posted rate, not the rated of the credit card companies.
Add the GST/PST/HST or taxes on the Canadian side: @ 13% of 11.74.
GRAND TOTAL: $102.03 Canadian. :o
I guess I need to find another option to keep me busy for awhile. ::)
Guy Send me a PM
I have a good stock of 1/16 balsa here, about 60 sheets and all good lite stuff, also could ship to you.
Ken Fluney
Guy,
Contact Ken (Polecat). He is always at the swap meet and we race pylon balsa with (against?) him. I have bought balsa from him before. If you are unhappy with his service then just let me know. I'll finally have a reason to make his life miserable since I can't beat him around a pylon course. ;) ;) ;D
Frank
Whilst waiting for Canada Post deliver, I figured out how to install the servo mount. A bit of trim here and there, and it will fit well.
BTW, before anybody asks, the bolt will be removed prior to the first flight.
Guy
Nope... Revised rudder servo location as it is a pull-pull configuration. Now where to put that elevator servo so it does not interfere with the wing mounting and the cockpit.... Think, think, think....
Quote from: GuyOReilly on April 11, 2020, 07:01:20 PM
Nope... Revised rudder servo location as it is a pull-pull configuration. Now where to put that elevator servo so it does not interfere with the wing mounting and the cockpit.... Think, think, think.... If not wait for further guidance from Frank...
Braggart! (Just because you can.) ;)
I would consider you put it somewhere else in the fuselage where it fits best and can still be functional. Also make sure that the new servo location won't interfere with the cockpit and wing mounting stuff. I hope this is helpful. :-\ If not, wait for further guidance from Frank. ::)
Bruce,
re: "If not, wait for further guidance from Frank. ::)"
The two of us helping Guy? .....the blind leading the blind. ;)
Frank
One more step and 4,738 more to go...
Attached the 1/16 plywood fuselage saddle ribs.
Now it's beginning to look like an airplane! ;D
Centre section glued. Had to try the wings on for size.
That looks amazing!
Project advances, temporary installation of the rudder with pull/pull cables.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfEmRT781xw&feature=youtu.be
Excellent. One of the by-products of seeing all these builds is getting to see a number of working areas and equipment.
I have to know, Guy, what's the "Danger" sign pointing to? Is that "Danger" on a stick? A re-useable, mobile warning?
The "DANGER" sign is because an Exacto #11 blade is mounted on an 18-inch stick. :o I needed that for a project and just kept it.... just in case... ;)
Is this pilot size too small or not?
Now...be kind...
Let me introduce to you, Captain Jack!
Construction can resume... ;D
Parcel arrived today. :o
Thank you Canada Post >:(
Temporarily installed the motor. ;D
E-flite Power 25 @870 Kv.
Should be more than ample power.
Propeller is 14X8, but I think it is too large a diameter and should probably be using 11.
Battery would be 1800 or 2200, to be determined later. :-\
Guy,
Looking good! A Power 25 is more than enough. It will fly fine on 3 cells. Pick the battery pack to balance.
Keep going. There is a finish line.
I am getting back to the Minimoa after a bit of a hiatus.
Here are a few questions for the more knowledgeable people in the club about a pull-pull rudder set-up:
1- Can the cable have some stretch? - I plan on using kite strings and it does have some stretch.
2- Can a fishline swivel be used to prevent the cable from twisting? These are small, see the picture. I would put one on each side of the rudder.
3- Should the line be one continuous loop from the right rudder to the servo to the left rudder or should there be 2 lines, one for each side. Someone told me that having loop is easier when it comes to ensuring both sides are of equal length. The adjustment is done at the servo to block the string. I need a second or third-fourth opinion on this matter.
Thank you for your guidance and assistance.
Guy
Guy,
An attempt at answers to your questions:
1) stretch is bad. It makes for a sloppy response. Fishing line like Spider wire is terrific since it has very little stretch.
2) the fishline swivels are handy for connect/disconnect and line adjustment. The swivel action is not needed.
3) No need for the line to be continuous since it needs to be fastened at the arm. The adjustment knot can be at the rudder horn.
Note: the larger the airplane, the greater the need for a tiller arm. This tiller arm is moved by a pushrod to the servo. I believe it can be attached to the servo arm directly if it is a ball bearing servo, otherwise it will require a tiller arm.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on August 25, 2020, 05:59:50 PM
Guy,
An attempt at answers to your questions:
1) stretch is bad. It makes for a sloppy response. Fishing line like Spider wire is terrific since it has very little stretch.
2) the fishline swivels are handy for connect/disconnect and line adjustment. The swivel action is not needed.
3) No need for the line to be continuous since it needs to be fastened at the arm. The adjustment knot can be at the rudder horn.
Note: the larger the airplane, the greater the need for a tiller arm. This tiller arm is moved by a pushrod to the servo. I believe it can be attached to the servo arm directly if it is a ball bearing servo, otherwise it will require a tiller arm.
Frank
Thank you
@Frank v B for your insightful reply and comments.
1- I thought so... Just did not want to buy 150 yards of line for the 5 feet I will need... Perhaps I can pick-up fishing as an additional hobby... NOT!!!
2- Okay, I will use the ones I have.
3- I preferred to have separate lines rather than a continuous loop. Great minds think alike....
4- Tiller arm?!? Too late for that :-( all framing done and I do not see how I can arrange that at this time. ???
5- BB Servo ;D One can always use a BB Servo! ;D
Have a great evening.
Guy
Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do... ::)
I broke down and bought 150 yards of braided fish line, but I only needed approximately 10 feet... :o
Oh, the sacrifices we do for the hobby. ;)
Hey
@GuyOReilly,
Just bring a fishing rod to the next float fly at Lake Scugog and you can catch some dinner. Or you can do some control ling flying from a boat in the middle of the lake. Either way that will take care of the excess 147 yards of braided fishing line. 8)
Votre ami,
André
Guy,
I am happy to buy some off you for my 3 RC sailboat models
10 yards. Name a fair price.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on September 04, 2020, 09:23:36 PM
Guy,
I am happy to buy some off you for my 3 RC sailboat models
10 yards. Name a fair price.
Frank
A few flying lessons will do! ;)
Perhaps a flight test on a few airplanes too... ;D
I will put some in my car and I will drop at the field in the "Lost and Found".
Guy
You'd have to come float flying to understand that you do not want to eat anything out of that lake... yikes.
Quote from: davidk on September 04, 2020, 11:45:11 PM
You'd have to come float flying to understand that you do not want to eat anything out of that lake... yikes.
Is that from the fish eating too much CA, epoxy and foam from tanked planes? Help me to understand. ;D
Andy
Okay, slowly getting back to the Minimoa.
Fuse reading for major sanding. :o
Quote from: GuyOReilly on October 20, 2020, 09:43:34 AM
Okay, slowly getting back to the Minimoa.
Fuse reading for major sanding. :o
Bonjour
@GuyOReilly Your shop is way too neat and organized. I hope TEMAC members' spouses do not see this or we will all be in trouble! 8)
Andy
More progress on the Minimoa.
Fabricated the motor cover using scrap pieces of 1/4 sheet and 3/8 square pieces of balsa. ;)
Needs more sanding (obviously!) prior to covering with 1/16 wet balsa using
@Frank v B technique. ;D
Hopefully that will work for me too... ???
Bravo
@GuyOReilly !
It looks like your Shop-Vac has really been huffing and puffing to keep up with all of your sanding!! ;D
Keep up the great work.
(
@Frank v B will be some jealous when he sees all of your
perfectly focused progress photos!)
Andy
Minimoa progress.
@Frank v B, thank you for sharing your method of bending wood.
It appears that the "Green Towel" also works and it seems that the suggested balsa bending method is colour agnostic. ;D
The final result, minus more sanding and fitting.
Next, add magnets for firewall mounting.
@Andy Hoffer hopefully these pictures are reasonably in focus... ;) Kindly note that the shop vac is
FULL of balsa dust... ::)
@Frank v B would you have any suggestions on cooling? ??? I was thinking enlarging the front opening (toward the bottom) and adding holes to the sides of the cowling, but I hesitate to cut into my fabrication at this time... :-X
Guy
re: suggestion on cooling
I use the plastic spoon cut-off for an air vent.
On the left is the battery hatch to my .60 size pattern plane. On the right is roughly where the spoon is cut to create the scoop.
Cut a hole through the fuse or cowl and glue the spoon end in the groove around the hole.
Frank
First coat or primer.
Will need more sanding and another coat, perhaps more...
A bit more progress.
Fuselage painted, canopy and cowling constructed.
Not scale, but it will do.
More progress.
Very nice hatching of the hatch! :D
This will also do nicely as a stealth bomb bay!!
Bravo
@GuyOReilly !
Andy
Rudder installation. It works!! ;D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB7WTDYh7fg&feature=youtu.be
Eh Bien! Tirez-tirez! C'est très jolie!! 8)
Andy
I was not happy with the cowling I previously made, so I made another one using
@Frank v B balsa wetting method.
The prop can now fold properly.
!st photo, unpainted.
2nd view from the top.
3rd front view to show the air circulation to cool the motor.
I must say I am happy with the results.
More sanding and more painting needed when this coat has cured.
Bonjour
@GuyOReilly ,
Ou est le reste du pilote qui va avec les chaussures en photo #7562?!! Est-ce qu'il disparu en shop vac?? 8)
Andy
Now that the Spitfire is completed, back to the Minimoa.
The wings will be re-done completely.
The existing construction as shown on the plan is not satisfactory as it does not allow for ailerons.
Also, the wing brace shown is small and weak (IMHO).
Step 1 salvage whatever balsa I can from the existing construction, including spars and sheeting.
Step 2 will be to cut ribs... many, many ribs...
Step 3, well I have not thought about that yet... I will keep you posted.
A bit of progress, the spoiler were added.
These were not included in the original plan.
The movement is limited due to space and the servo arm hitting the spoiler when closed.
They should provide some assistance with the spot-landing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngG3EbD_G6o
Guess I should change the name from Minimoa to Sortamoa.
Made multiple changes and modifications along the way.
Should be ready for wings to be covered in a week or so, depending on amount of sanding done.
Guy,
Kinda-Moa, pseudo-Moa, Franken-Moa, Chernobyl-Moa....
Seeing the photo with the head-on view it is so expected that the wings flap. 8)
Keep going. Easily surpasses the 50/50 rule. ;D
Frank
Got back to the Minimoa (renamed "Sortamoa") and covered the wings.
Is that plane ever large!
Hey
@GuyOReilly Looking good! I like the pilot's straw summer flying hat on top of the U-Haul box. Very trendy! 8)
Andy
Oh Oh... The aileron servos jitter. Is that fright of the flight?!? ???
I found the following article : http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/flying/tomhoopes_solvingservojitters.htm
Which suggests the following solution, my highlights:
"... little math and collecting of empirical data (testing different values) indicates that a small monolithic or ceramic disk capacitor of 150 pf to .001 uf (pf=picofarad, uf=microfarad) will do the trick. Solder the capacitor as close to the servo as possible and connect it from the signal lead to the ground lead. Remember to use heat-shrink tubing to avoid short circuits. ... The capacitors are generally cheaper and easier to acquire. At your closest Radio Shack, look for P/N 272-125 (470pf) or P/N 272-126 (.001uf). ... Remember, solder the capacitor as close as possible to the servo and place across the signal and ground lead."
Did anybody use capacitors to solve this type of problem?
Thank you.
Guy
Hi
@GuyOReilly Great article. I haven't used capacitors for this purpose but the theory makes sense to me. You might want to check some other servos with equivalent length leads to see if the problem still occurs, to determine if lead length really is the problem. You want to be sure the problem doesn't lie with the controller or potentiometer in the aileron servos, as opposed to radio interference.
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on April 29, 2021, 02:46:52 PM
Hi @GuyOReilly
Great article. I haven't used capacitors for this purpose but the theory makes sense to me. You might want to check some other servos with equivalent length leads to see if the problem still occurs, to determine if lead length really is the problem. You want to be sure the problem doesn't lie with the controller or potentiometer in the aileron servos, as opposed to radio interference.
Andy
Thank you
@Andy Hoffer for the suggestion.
I swapped one of the servos and the problem went away.
Bad servo was causing the issue and that one will be cleaned for another use at some other time.
Now, onward with the build!
@Andy Hoffer nope, still bad...
:(
@Andy Hoffer I took a few minutes off work (do not tell my boss please) and tried the servos.
Both work, no jittering whatsoever!!
I will use your 2 Topfire servos.
Thank you so much for taking the time and for your generous offer.
Hopefully the "problem servos" will be diagnosed and will be suitable for use in the DR-1.
That's fantastic news
@GuyOReilly ! So glad to help out, especially someone who so willingingly helps me to keep
@Frank v B (a.k.a. De Vliegende Hollander) under control! ;D
Alpha November Delta Yankee
On the scale, 4 pounds 4 ounces, with battery, ready for Maiden Flight... or fright... :o
Maiden flight completed. ;D
Winds 15G30/35 if one is to believe
@Andy Hoffer .
More pictures from Andy to come later. ;)
Happy with the flight performance, landing needs some improvements... :o
Also, Andy needs to know right from left as the rudder was reversed (I did not notice it either, but we are talking about Andy here, not me... ???) ::)
Congratulations!
Both planes are nice!
Quote from: GuyOReilly on May 23, 2021, 04:32:54 PM
Maiden flight completed. ;D
Winds 15G30/35 if one is to believe @Andy Hoffer .
More pictures from Andy to come later. ;)
Happy with the flight performance, landing needs some improvements... :o
Also, Andy needs to know right from left as the rudder was reversed (I did not notice it either, but we are talking about Andy here, not me... ???) ::)
Sorry
@GuyOReilly . My brain toggled into français when you were calling out the rudder directions. At least I got the launch direction right! ;D
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on May 23, 2021, 08:31:25 PM
Quote from: GuyOReilly on May 23, 2021, 04:32:54 PM
Maiden flight completed. ;D
Winds 15G30/35 if one is to believe @Andy Hoffer .
More pictures from Andy to come later. ;)
Happy with the flight performance, landing needs some improvements... :o
Also, Andy needs to know right from left as the rudder was reversed (I did not notice it either, but we are talking about Andy here, not me... ???) ::)
Sorry @GuyOReilly . My brain toggled into français when you were calling out the rudder directions. At least I got the launch direction right! ;D
Andy
No worries
@Andy Hoffer , I did not use the rudder during the landing. :-X.
I should have checked by placing myself BEHIND the plane. My rookie mistake. ::)
Quote from: GuyOReilly on May 23, 2021, 04:32:54 PM
Maiden flight completed. ;D
Winds 15G30/35 if one is to believe @Andy Hoffer .
More pictures from Andy to come later. ;)
Happy with the flight performance, landing needs some improvements... :o
Also, Andy needs to know right from left as the rudder was reversed (I did not notice it either, but we are talking about Andy here, not me... ???) ::)
Beautiful maiden flight by
@GuyOReilly (see "WANTED" poster in last photo!) (And why wouldn't you believe Andy???! ;D)
Andy
Thank you
@Andy Hoffer for these beautiful in-flight pictures and moral support.
Thank you
@Michael for your compliment.
The green and blue plane will fly next time I am at the field.
The repair to the center section is minor, but will require a new carbon fibre rod as the right one has splitered.
Also the part holding the rod was balsa and will be replaced, possibly by a piece of 2X4 pine.
In sumary, flight characteristics and maiden flight summary:
1- flies great on 1/2 power.
2-
@Andy Hoffer can hand-launch anytime for me, perfect departure.
3- no trim needed... how could I trim with all that wind ;D
4- responsive to all control inputs, no need to change amount of movement, except for rudder.
5- rudder needs to operate in the correct 😌 direction... DUH!!
6- need to add motor hard breaking to stop the prop from windmilling.
7- happy with results, perhaps consider a dolly to launch when Andy is not available. ;)
Quote from: GuyOReilly on May 23, 2021, 10:32:11 PM
Thank you @Andy Hoffer for these beautiful in-flight pictures and moral support.
Thank you @Michael for your compliment.
The green and blue plane will fly next time I am at the field.
The repair to the center section is minor, but will require a new carbon fibre rod as the right one has splitered.
Also the part holding the rod was balsa and will be replaced, possibly by a piece of 2X4 pine.
In sumary, flight characteristics and maiden flight summary:
1- flies great on 1/2 power.
2- @Andy Hoffer can hand-launch anytime for me, perfect departure.
3- no trim needed... how could I trim with all that wind ;D
4- responsive to all control inputs, no need to change amount of movement, except for rudder.
5- rudder needs to operate in the correct 😌 direction... DUH!!
6- need to add motor hard breaking to stop the prop from windmilling.
7- happy with results, perhaps consider a dolly to launch when Andy is not available. ;)
@GuyOReilly I think you want hard
braking on the motor. Hard
breaking usually means expensive repairs. ;D
Andy
Damage was more extensive than previously estimated. :o
Repair required extensive centre section modifications.
Photo # 86 - Entire centre section gutted.
Photo # 87 - A pine block of 2X4 cut down to size and drilled to accept 1/2 inch brass tubing.
Photo # 89 - Brass tubing temporarily in place. Hole was drilled at 10.5 Degrees from vertical to mach dihedral.
Photo # 90 - Block temporarily in place, bit of sanding needed for better fit and to adjust dihedral and rake.
Photo # 93 - Front view showing the angle.
Still more to do, such as reducing the weight of the 5.2 ounces (149 grams) of the pine block. ???
Alignment with wings on and final attachment of the pine block.
The idea of using a pine block came from
@Frank v B judicious use of this method for landing gears. Thank you Frank, it works great for this application.
Repair underway. ;D There was no damage to the wing on account of solid wing spar box construction using hard wood.
Metal pieces on top of wing are temporarily placed to help ensure good epoxy bonding of central block.
Still need to figure out how to program the engine brake. ???
Reading the instructions and doing it are 2 different things ::)
Hey
@GuyOReilly All it needs now are gun turrets and bomb racks! ;D
Andy
Fibreglassing the fuselage at the wing root.
Should be strong enough for the suggested power plant
@Andy Hoffer . ;)
ESC problem located. :o
A new ESC was plugged in and everything works fine now. ;D
Nice smokin'
@GuyOReilly ! 8)
Andy
TEMAC Flight June 20, 2021
Thank you
@Frank v B for saving the plane.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6-9M4VuaGA
Set-up to identify the wing warping issue.
The right wing has a positive incidence that will be twisted out... I hope :o
Guy, itsa my job. :)
A little background.
The reason I called "landing from the south" was because it was a downwind landing. On a left turn, the plane wanted to flip on its back. A right turn was manageable. This way the landing approach was with a right turn but downwind. The only cause I could think of during the flight was a warped wing but my job was to get it down in one piece. No style points requested or required. The finesse of a Glenn-type landing went out the window ;D
Frank
It just hit me. Guy took the landing video so he couldn't lose.
If the landing were successful, he would have his airplane back.
If the landing were unsuccessful, he could sell the footage for the TV program "Mayday".
The outcome is always predictable..... it is always "pilot error". ;)
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on June 25, 2021, 12:35:12 PM
It just hit me. Guy took the landing video so he couldn't lose.
If the landing were successful, he would have his airplane back.
If the landing were unsuccessful, he could sell the footage for the TV program "Mayday".
The outcome is always predictable..... it is always "pilot error". ;)
Frank
No
@Frank v B , you got it wrong: I will admit that it would have been Builder's Blame in this case.
The video, I must confess, did provide some exciting, suspenseful and riveting footage of your extraordinary piloting skills.
Unfortunately,
@Andy Hoffer was not there to witness such aviation skills firsthand, the unedited video however proves for posterity your prowess.
Your humble servant, Guy
Twist taken out of the right wing.
Set-up both ailerons with reflex/up to hopefully assist with slow speed and prevent tip stalling.
Reduced the movement to 50% for rudder, elevator and ailerons (it was too much movement).
Added exponential to rudder, elevator and ailerons (should improve sensitivity).
Battery charged up.
It is now ready for a second test flight as soon as the weather improves..
Hey Guy. I want to thank you for posting the picture of the Mimosa in your workshop. I noticed your solution to storing clamps by hanging them from a wire. I never thought of that and had all my clamps in a cardboard box. Your method makes so much more sense. I have emulated your method. Thanks
Guy,
I'll be there tomorrow (Sunday) 10-1 if you wish a spear chucker's hand. ;)
Frank
Good luck
@GuyOReilly !
I would SO love to be there to watch
@Frank v B launch your Minimoa! ;D
Make sure he fully inflates his cheeks before he throws, otherwise ABORT the takeoff. He needs full maxillofacial inflation and pressure to ensure that his catapult musculature works.
Andy
The death spiral result.
Will not fly again.
Notwithstanding rumours to the contrary, it was not
@Frank v B 's fault.
Parts were salvaged and will proceed to another project.