This is the second Savoia Marchetti S55X that I have built. The first was constructed of built up balsa wood. If you are interested in that build go to http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,4454.msg26337.html#msg26337.
The original had a 40 inch wingspan. It was scratch built from an old set of plans originally intended for a control line stand-off scale model of the plane. It flew with some success, but I think that the plane's weight and small wingspan had its limitations.
This model is going to have a 60 inch wingspan. I downloaded from AeroFred at https://aerofred.com plans for a 50 inch wingspan model of the plane. I took the downloaded file to Staples where I had it expanded and printed at 120%. Thus a 60 inch wingspan version can be constructed. A copy of the plans are attached below.
After looking at the drawings, you can see how I should build it with balsa wood and ply. I'm not doing that again!
I am going to use these full size plans as a guide to help me construct this model out of foam, depron, ply, spruce and some balsa where necessary.
My objective for the model is somewhat simple. It must fly from water. (Is that two objectives?) Anyhow the model will have to be strong, water resistant and float. I think I am using the right material to help it float anyways.
Initially I thought I would build the wing first, but after reviewing the plans over and over and over and over again, I have decided that I am going to build the twin hulls and the affixed booms first.
Then I will proceed to construct the center wing section, motor pylon and cockpit, horizontal stab, vertical fins and rudder control surfaces, followed by the two outer left and right wing sections. Some where in between I will install the motors, ESCs, battery compartments and water resistant hatch covers, receiver, servos and batteries. Oh yes, then finish the model in its original color scheme.
Let the construction begin!
That 60" wingspan is going to be a stunner. I agree that it's 2 objectives... that it must fly... from water. ;)
Thanks for the link to your last build... and to AeroFred. I think there might be a 3D printer somewhere in my future.
Awesome!!!! ;D
Looks Awesome Bruce
Please post build pics as you progress
I would add a 3rd objective...Land on Water
Which is actually a contradiction in terms.
How can you "land" on "water"? ;D
Quote from: msatin on October 18, 2019, 10:33:51 PM
Looks Awesome Bruce
Please post build pics as you progress
I would add a 3rd objective...Land on Water
Which is actually a contradiction in terms.
How can you "land" on "water"? ;D
Thanks for the nice comments.
I do intend on documenting the construction with photos as I proceed.
@msatin regarding your comment about the third objective 'Land on Water' isn't it a contradiction in terms? I have done it. I accomplished this by nose diving my original Savoia M... into shallow water from a high altitude. The plane easily penetrated the water and continued to plant itself in the bottom of reservoir before popping back up to the surface with mud attached to the front of each twin hull as evidence of this spectacular feat.
Now on with the build.
I have modified the bottom keel and top rear keel of the twin hulls from that shown on the original plans. This modification will serve multiple purposes.
First- The new design will be used for strength and for accurately securing the twin booms to each hull individually.
The one piece top and bottom keel consists of 1/4 inch ply, with portions of the ply cut out and lightening holes drilled in the rear portion to lighten the structure, but still retain its strength.
The first photo shows the original hull and keel design.
The second shows my tracing skills, and the sections I intend to cut out and the lightening holes I intended to incorporate.
The third shows show that I can cut the paper template and place it on the drawing. (Real neat huh? Don't worry I am using safety scissors.)
The fourth photo shows the finished keels and spruce booms with cut the ply portions cut out and lightening holes drilled into the rear portion.
The booms are not permanently attached yet, but will be once I add the brass fitting to the top and bottom of each boom and epoxy and solder in the music wire staples. Once this is done the booms will be permanently attached to the each hull and be perfectly aligned. (I hope)
Maybe this makes sense?
Love the level of detail... thanks Bruce. And that little saw is just about the cutest I've seen.
Did you cut the ply by hand... or with a power saw?
Quote from: davidk on October 22, 2019, 07:47:37 PM
Love the level of detail... thanks Bruce. And that little saw is just about the cutest I've seen.
Did you cut the ply by hand... or with a power saw?
It is interesting that you ask
@davidk .
The first photo depicts the cute little saw that you were asking about. It is a Stanley SHARPTOOTH FINE FINISH saw. Very nice little saw that cuts wood rather than tearing the wood apart. It leaves a clean cut finish on the surfaces of the wood that has been cut. I use it for straight fine cuts.
The other three photo's depict my homemade bench saw I built for cutting ply, balsa and other pieces of wood. This table saw consists of a jigsaw mounted upside down on a little table I constructed for the purpose of supporting the saw and the wood I am cutting. This table saw allows me to cut and shape wood easily. It is easier to use than a jigsaw for my hobby purposes. The wood is moved through and around the blade as desired. The shoe/base plate of the jigsaw was removed and is attached to the side of the table for use in winding the power cord around when the saw isn't in use. The saw is turned on and off by using a switch on a power bar that I place beside the work area.
The tool was very inexpensive to make and is very convenient considering I don't have a workshop. I keep my little Shopvac handy for quick clean-ups while in use and afterwards.
PS - I have yet to loose a finger while using it. If you can use a bandsaw, you can easily use this saw.
Those are a couple of fine tools. Big thumbs up on the topsy turvy jig saw... that's a sweet idea. If we had a thumbs up emoji here on the board... you'd get 2 on this post.
Gotta respect a man who makes his own tools... or to quote another TEMAC member... make it something you want it to be.
Quote from: davidk on October 23, 2019, 04:11:23 PM
Those are a couple of fine tools. Big thumbs up on the topsy turvy jig saw... that's a sweet idea. If we had a thumbs up emoji here on the board... you'd get 2 on this post.
Gotta respect a man who makes his own tools... or to quote another TEMAC member... make it something you want it to be.
@davidk It's not a topsy turvy jig saw, just because I mounted it to a table arrangement upside down. I know some people will have a problem with the concept. Think of it this way, using a jigsaw in its normal configuration; the blade goes up and down. Using the jig saw in my inverted tool, the blade goes down and up. Same excellent cutting results though.
Construction continues: Photos 1 & 2 - Instructions and illustration for bottom boom and hull keel permanent attachment method.
The pinching technique of the brass tube as outlined in the plans instructions wasn't worth a hoot. Alternatively, I cut the brass tube down the center with my Dremel, then pinched it and soldered it. Two dry fit brass fittings of this nature were made. The two fittings were epoxied to the boom ends after drilling the ends of each boom for insertion of the piano wire.
The piano wire was cut using the Dremel. The wire was also scored using the Dremel to ensure the epoxy will hold securely to the wire when glued in place in the spruce boom and keel locations. The bottom booms and keels were drilled out carefully for the piano wire to be inserted and epoxied in alignment. There are now two identical booms and hull keel frames ready for further construction.
The remaining photos are somewhat self explanatory, but...
The hull bottom was traced on paper for making a paper template. Two full size hull bottoms were cut from the foam. The bow (front) bottom portion was removed from the 'C' bulkhead forward. Note: A ¼ inch portion of the center was removed to make up for the ¼ inch ply keel. The two remaining pieces were cut into 4 pieces. Two front pieces [left and right sides] to facilitate the front of the hulls' bottom and the
'step'. The two rear pieces [left and right sides] facilitate the rear bottom of the hull behind the
'step'.) The step portion was reinforced with 1/8 inch ply.
(For those who might be interested, the
'step' is that notch or step in the bottom of the hull. The rear bottom of the hull slopes upwards behind the step allowing for the aircraft to rotate during take-off and landing without the back of the hull digging into the water. Digging in increases drag, which will prevent lift-off.)
A paper template was made of the side wall of the hull. Two outside hull walls were cut from foam and two inside hull walls were cut from foam. The inner hull wall wing saddles are larger than the wing saddles on outside walls of each hull.
Note: A solid piece of foam board will not bend easily, so the front and rear sides of the hull were scored partially through the foam with a saw to allow the foam to flex.
The bottom four pieces of the hull were glued on first. Then the sides were glued to the bottom.
The second last photo depicts the tools and adhesives I have used up to now.
The two hulls at this point don't look pretty, but they will get there. Just imagine...
Photo 1- foam blocks installed for start of bow construction. Balsa bumpers will be mounted on each side of the keel and everything to be sanded to shape.
Photo 2 – note the plywood keel extensions fore and aft coming out of the bottom of the hull. The reason for these extensions are explained next.
Photo 3 – the plans have a reference line drawn under the side view of the hull. The keel extensions sit atop this reference line and will keep the hulls in alignment for measurement purposes and alignment purposes during assembly. The extensions will be cut off after final assembly and before finishing the model.
Photos 4 – More tracing, then cutting out of the two plywood sides of the pylon legs
Photo 5 - The two sheets of the plans are taped together so that I can start the construction of the center wing section between the hulls.
Photo 6 - I cut and shaped multiple ribs 01 and 02 for the construction of the center wing section.
Photo 7 – depicts the rough shaped center section that at this time is just taped in place for the photo. Note that the center portion of the wing has been hollowed out to facilitate the wiring of components.
Photo 8 - The center section at this point consists of 4 separate parts. The four parts will be attached together after the pylon leg anchoring features are installed.
It's looking great, Bruce!
You're providing an excellent build log as reference for other builders and wanna-be builder to see how to create interesting models like this.
Robert
@piker Thanks Rob. This is another experimental project on my part. I enjoy the tinkering, adjusting the use the foam board and similar mediums as alternatives for this build.
Getting on with the construction, the next step was to make the twin motor mount pylon out plywood.
Photos 1 & 2 – Using the plans again, a template is made for the pylon motor mount. Then using my topsy turvy jig saw the plywood base was cut out. The notches where the three pieces will intersects and be attached were cut out with a hobby chisel and hammer. I use a sharpening stone to keep my chisels, blades and cutting knives sharp.
Photo 3 - Next, I shaped the airfoil of the pylon leg structures. This was accomplished using my 'Dura Grit' file, 'Dremel' power tool for corners and sand paper to finish. The photo shows one pylon leg shaped and the other, not shaped.
Photo 4, 5 & 6 - Using the plans again, a foam template was made for forming up the pylon angles. Note that I measured to make sure everything was right.
Photo 7 – Using 15 minute epoxy, clamps and assorted tools, the pylon assembly is rubed together. I'll let it cure overnight, before using the pylon assembly for establishing the pylon leg anchor points in the center section of the wing.
If the lines on that table top could talk... each cut part of airplane.
Quote from: davidk on November 05, 2019, 11:04:29 PM
If the lines on that table top could talk... each cut part of airplane.
This table has served the family faithfully for many purposes. Yes, 99% of the cuts, gouges and drill holes you can see are related to my model aircraft hobby activities.
David, you have to understand that when this table is needed for a family overflow dining activity, there's nothing a table cloth won't cover. :-X
Bruce,
I am impressed! Beginning to think of you as Mr Warwing, but for me, this is way better! I missed what happened to the first S55X (such a cool airplane!) ....or is that a closed topic?
Anyway, well done!
BTW, In order to lend a Canadian flavour to your build, I could bring a Canadian beer can to the next pilots' meeting to replace the A&W thing...do you need a regular size, or tall boy?
Cheers,
Bill
Quote from: Wingnutz on November 23, 2019, 07:13:24 PM
Bruce,
I am impressed! Beginning to think of you as Mr Warwing, but for me, this is way better! I missed what happened to the first S55X (such a cool airplane!) ....or is that a closed topic?
Anyway, well done!
BTW, In order to lend a Canadian flavour to your build, I could bring a Canadian beer can to the next pilots' meeting to replace the A&W thing...do you need a regular size, or tall boy?
Cheers,
Bill
Hi Bill,
The original balsa model cruised a number of times and flew once. When flying, it made a number of circuits at the Indian Line Campground reservoir. It needed a lot of up elevator trim to get it to fly without wanting to dive, but on a slow turn it tip stalled and spun into the water. That's where it met the bottom of the muddy reservoir. Minor damage, but I have yet to fly it again. I have felt that it would fly better if it was larger. (Hence, my current project.) The original still sits pretty on display in my home.
Regarding your offer for the beer can(s). Please note that I only accept beer cans containing their original contents. Once the contents have been personally disposed, I will then determine the suitability of the remaining vessel for use in my project. So, to answer your question, I don't know which size I need. I will probably have to try both sizes from an indetermanet number of brewers before coming to a final decision. :-[ ;) ;) ;)
"I will probably have to try both sizes from an indetermanet number of brewers before coming to a final decision. :-[ ;) ;) ;)"
Bruce, I would like to point out that most mainstream Canadian breweries sell beer in cans of one of two sizes. While I would love to be more generous at this time of giving, financial restrictions and my own propensity to consume the contents of beer cans obliges me to limit my gift to two cans (with contents), one of each size...burp...
The primary structure of the pylon is finished, shaped and lightened with lightening holes spaced relatively evenly throughout the motor mount base. The lightening holes will also allow air movement for cooling the motors and ESCs.
NOTE: The centre line of the electric motor shafts are going to be mounted parallel with the centre line of the plywood base of the pylon. This will require motor mounts to be installed front and rear on the pylon. Locations to be determined once I have decided on the motors to be used.
A battery will be installed in each hull to provide power to each motor independently. The battery wires and an esc wire will run up the inside of each of the pylon front struts.
The two motors and ESCs will be installed in a cowl enclosure. They will be enclosed in an engine cowl of some sort. (Refer to earlier posts with Billy Q above.) A tallboy just won't do it. I am going to have to have a drink and think of what I will do to enclose the hardware.
The ESCs will be connected with a Y harness with one of the positive wires disconnected, in order to operate both motors simultaneously with one link to the receiver. (See drawing)
The photo below depicts a dry fit (not glued) of
1 - the center wing component with the pylon sitting in its final position.
2 - two hulls - note I have started to shape the hull at the front of one of the hulls.
Now to carry on...
Impressed again...a unique and innovative build accompanied by a classy beer can (an oxymoron?), even if it's an import! Bruce I had no idea how big this model is and obviously even a tall boy is woefully inadequate as a cowling. I'm guessing a steel can large enough would be prohibitively heavy. Can you use the "firewalls"/motor mounting plates to stabilize the cowling cylinder? Perhaps "rolling your own" (cowling that is) out of depron or acetate like an EDF thrust tube would keep it light, rigid enough and still capture the character of the real cowling?
I'm sure you'll find a suitable solution and if the weather permits, I'll bring the promised beers to the Wed meeting...it'll add Canadian content to you beer menu, if not your model!
Thanks Bill,
I am hoping someone can provide some guidance on the rudder and elevator servos and receiver installations. :-\
My earlier model had the servos installed in the hulls and the pushrods ran through plastic tubes mounted to the side of each boom, with a clevis connected to the elevator and rudder control horns. They were dry but hard to get to when service/replacement became necessary.
As an alternative to this, I am strongly considering using 'thin wing servos', installing them in the horizontal and vertical fixed portion of the rudder and elevator stabilizers. This will shorten up the pushrods considerably and access to the servos will be readily available. The servo wires will be run along each boom to the individual servos.
In my earlier model I had installed the receiver in the central wing cockpit area.
As an alternative, I am thinking of installing the receiver in the pylon along with the motors and ESCs because there is a lot of space up there and it would make it easy to get to if/when needed.
If you have any thoughts on these installations, pros and cons would be appreciated.
Thanks, Bruce
"As an alternative to this, I am strongly considering using 'thin wing servos', installing them in the horizontal and vertical fixed portion of the rudder and elevator stabilizers. This will shorten up the pushrods considerably and access to the servos will be readily available. The servo wires will be run along each boom to the individual servos. "
Bruce,
My guess is that adding servos in the tail surfaces will make the cg problem worse. I read through your earlier SM thread (same beer can banter five years ago!) and if I've understood the first model, you put servos in the hulls and connected to rudder(s) and elevator with pushrods. I think you were on the right track. As a slight variation, how about using Sullivan cables to connect hull mounted servos to rudder(s) and elevator? At least then, the cable weight isn't all in the tail...I've done it on several models and as long as the outer shell around the cable is anchored, the system works well in a push/pull application.
If you locate the rx in the motor(s) pod, you'll have a pile of wires running up the pylons and the rx will be pretty close to the ESCs and motors...not sure that's a good location for reliable reception...it will also dictate a non metal cowling...
Keep us posted!
Back at it.
@Crazyflyer has kindly lent me his hot wire foam cutting tool. Not only that, he delivered it too. Thank you so much.
I have watched a number of YouTube videos on the subject of hot wire cutting and there was sure a lot of useful information and guidance in them.
Originally, I was going to use 5 layers of 1/2 inch blue foam to make up the foam core wings. But then I decided to break the bank and buy another 2 X 8 foot sheet of foam but this time the board was 2 inches thick. This way I will only have to use two layers of stacked foam to make each wing.
The wing shape was traced and transferred to the foam for cutting. I must remember that there is a right and left wing panel. This will require the wing template to be set up differently to make the opposite wing panel.
Ribs #1 and #10 were traced from the plans and transferred to the 1/8th inch plywood to make rib-end templates. Both were cut out and sanded to eliminate any burrs, so that the hot wire will not bind as it glides across the templates and cuts through the foam boards.
Multiple holes were drilled in each of the end plywood rib templates and finishing nails were pushed through them into the foam board to hold the templates securely in place. Tomorrow (duckling
@davidk ) will return to assist me with the actual hot wire cutting. The photos below depict the process.
Burn pictures posted tomorrow :D
It's today and the foam has been cut. Thanks Dave.
It will have to be filled and smoothed out, but it is really coming along.
Wooden trailing edges to be added to the wings and ailerons to be cut out and installed.
Beautiful... just excellent looking. And that Marchetti is also looking fantastic. ;)
That foam cutting bow worked perfectly... cutting through that foam... like butta.
Bruce,
I love your focus on built-in flotation. Blue foam all the way. 8)
Frank
Added more floatation to the outer wingtips and rounded them off to match the plan.
Determined location for defining the ailerons. Cut them out. Then installed balsa wood for hinge points on the top of the wing and ailerons. Filler added.
Aileron servo installations.
Servo wire passageway holes drilled through wing using a piece of tubing and electric drill.
On the bottom of wings, I cut out the servo placement compartments using a knife by making many small slices of the same depth into the foam surface. The smaller foam pieces were chipped out using a small chisel type tool. The base of the servo compartment surface was smoothed out using a Dremel Dura-Grit shaping tool.
I am using Thin-wing servos for mounting horizontally in the wing. The servos are going to be mounted (screwed) to a 1/8th ply base that will be varathaned and glued in place. (Varathaned to protect the wood from water.) A cover plate will be placed over the servo compartment later.
To protect the servo from water, I was going to completely paint the servos with this silicone conformal coating. Has anyone had any experience with this?
The pylon motor mounts have been constructed to accommodate two electric motors and escs.
The pylon has been varethaned to protect it from moisture. The pylon will be painted white before final installation into the central wing area. The external finish of the motor mount compartments and cowlings will be finished after the motors and ESCs have been installed.
The throttle control wire will be run down a pylon strut and fished into the rear wing receiver area. Each ESC battery wire will also run down a pylon strut and fished into each hull battery compartment. The battery wires from each ESC have been lengthened by soldering so that the only electrical battery connection in the wiring will be made at the battery compartment.
As you can see from the photos the foam construction technics have become more sculpting than building. It has been fun, but obviously it isn't a race. I'm pacing myself so that I can try to think ahead to ensure all components will be accessible in the future should repairs or replacements become necessary.
All servos are in place. I am going to take Billy's advice and use the Sullivan cables for the rudder and elevator pushrods.
I think the photos speak for themselves.
It's beautiful... and currently looks like something straight out of the mind of George Lucas and Star Wars.
The pylon looks like an Imperial Walker.
I can't wait to see the wings on.
I had to go look up what Sullivan Controls are... very cool.
Well it has been a couple of months since my last post involving this aircraft construction thread.
It isn't that I haven't been working on the plane, (most part bull) it's that the advancements haven't been worth pointing out up to this point (yeh, that sounds good).
So let's catch up. (let's get going)
I have shaped the hulls by trimming away larger pieces of foam with my trusty utility knife and by filing away foam with my DuraGrit medium and fine files.
I have Gorilla glued the center wing section to the inner wing saddle of each hull and to the center plywood former/boom assembly. This makes a water tight joint at the wing saddles. (refer to photo 1)
The outer wings have been glued to the outer portion of the outer center section of the wing with the desired dihedral. (refer to photo 2)
I have Gorilla glued the pylon motor mount struts into the wing center section, securing them to the 2 sets of wooden top and bottom wing longeron structural components provided for this purpose. (I am using the term 'wing longeron' because the center wing area houses the aircraft's cockpit and in my view would be considered part of the hulls/fuselage portion of the plane.)
The battery wires from each of the ESCs has been fished down the inside of each of the two front pylon struts and then into the wing section leading into each respective hull. As noted before, the hulls will be used as battery compartments.
The XT 60 battery connectors will be soldered to the battery wires at later point before gluing the wing sections on.
Each ESCs throttle wire is attached to a Y harness. The one Y harness throttle wire runs down a rear pylon strut into the wing and then into the receiver compartment. (Note: A 'positive red wire' from one of the ESCs throttle wire has been severed to ensure the two motors will respond to the throttle control as one.)
The motors have been secured to the pylon motor mounts with lock nuts and the loose wires and ESCs are secured to the pylon with quick ties.
The ESCs have each been water proofed by filling both ends of the ESCs with epoxy. I have done this successfully before. (I know from personal experience that this technique is works, because the motor/ESC arrangement on my Mentor float plane spent a significant amount of time under the water before the plane was retrieved. Once retrieved, I simply blew the water off of it and the motor and ESC have been running well when ever I have flown the plane since.) [refer to photo 3]
You may wish to refer to the Flite Test YouTube video demonstrating how easy it is to do. The epoxy water proofing segment of the video starts at around the 9 minute mark on the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4z8QMgTEA4
The horizontal and vertical tail components have been carved and filed to shape. Balsa wood has been used to beef up these components and to provide hinge point anchors.
The elevator has been constructed primarily of balsa, because I determined that a foam elevator wouldn't be strong enough to function on this plane.
I am in the process of fiberglassing each of these tail elements before hinging them.
I have not decided whether to use cloth type or pin type hinges. Would anyone have any suggestions as to which type of hinge they would recommend for this aircraft? Your suggestions and rationale would be appreciated. ??? (refer to photos 4 and 5)
Once these components have been fibreglassed and hinged, they will be secured together making one complete tail section. This tail section will then be affixed permanently to the booms. (The tail section will consist of 2 vertical stabilizers, 3 rudders and the horizontal stab and elevator)
I am constructing the tail section using this method, because I believe it would be too difficult to build the horizontal and vertical surfaces directly on the booms and instill the necessary alignments. (refer to photos 6 and 7)
All tail surfaces have been fiberglassed.
The photos below should illustrate the technique of how I am constructing the horizontal and vertical tail surfaces as one component for attachment later.
I removed fiberglass where necessary and used a file to remove foam to a depth required to accommodate the shaped pieces of the boom made for this purpose.
The last photo shows the horizontal stab just sitting on the booms. (not permanently attached)
Next steps will involve the positioning of the vertical stabs.
I used the same process to prepare for the installation of the two horizontal stabs. Everything in the photo below is just pinned together.
I am looking for suggestions on next steps? Would it be suggested that I hinge each component separately, then paint the horizontal stab/elevator and the vertical stabs/rudders. Paint the components then put together the final unit? ???
The center rudder is going to be equipped and mounted with a pivot point and brace running from the horizontal stab up to the pivot point on the top of the rudder. (There will not be another vertical stab in the center section) See photo of the actual aircraft and look at rear tail section.
I'm also still looking for suggestions on the type of hinges to use? ???
re: input on the tail unit.
If it is going to be painted, I would assemble everything with hinges in place. If you are using a covering film, assemble after covering.
The main reason is that if it gets painted, you can liberally (strongly) glue everything together and paint over the glue joints.
FWIIW
Frank
Thanks for the input Frank.
The aircraft will be entirely fiberglassed and painted at some point. All the tail elements with the exception of the center rudder are completely glassed.
Before I proceed with the remainder of the tail, I need to get the next steps organized for its completion established. Hinging? Painting now or later? Combining pieces into one unit?
Other steps include
the remainder of the receiver/electronics installation and soldering,
wing reinforcement,
wing attachment to center wing section,
cockpit canopy construction,
pylon motor enclosure and cowl,
control horns, push rod installations,
remainder of hull construction,
cosmetics and filler as needed,
battery hatch construction with waterproof hatch
fiberglassing remainder of components
painting and trim.
These steps should go along pretty quickly now once I get things for the rest of elevator/rudder tail section construction out of the way.
I have decided to experiment with the Robarts Pin type hinges. For advice on the hinging matter I went to YouTube. Lots of pros and cons and how to videos on the subject matter.
The hinge experiment worked meaning the hinges function and are well secured. Now to hinge the remaining rudder(s) and elevator. :)
I know you're planning on painting, but I think the fibreglassed finish looks really good as is. The contrast between the blue sheen and the balsa is very cool.
Thanks David
You can see the balsa wood through the fiberglass. The fiberglass has not added much weight but the added strength is tremendous.
All painting in the future will be completed in my garage when the construction is completed and the weather is more accommodating. I will likely add another thin coat of Eze-Kote resin and sand before painting.
I am experimenting with the design for the construction of the canopy.
I am going to use clear plastic sheeting (from the hobby shop intended for making canopies) for the principle canopy construction.
Based on the drawings of the canopy on the plan and from other sources, I have made a paper canopy as my first kick at it.
There will be 5 pieces of clear plastic making up the canopy. 1 top, 2 sides, 1 front consisting of front 3 windows and 1 rear portion of the canopy.
The aluminum structural out lines of the canopy will be made out of thin depron, painted silver (aluminum colour) then glued onto of the plastic sheeting.
The 5 pieces of the plastic sheeting will somehow be joined together to make the canopy.
A rough paper canopy has been made to test out making the templates for the canopy pieces. More of these template canopies will be made until I get the shape right and before cutting the clear plastic sheets.
My first model's canopy was made of ply and plastic sheeting. See photos at http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,4454.msg37404.html#msg37404
I may have to use this technique again if I don't feel that the depron will work.
I hope this makes some sense of how I plan to go about making the canopy.
Any other suggestions for alternatives are welcome?
Bruce,
Go, go. It's really coming together.
re: "Lots of pros and cons and how to videos on the subject matter." That is just proof that it is a totally personal decision. The only advice is to read about the options, take stock of your tools, your ability and your patience and pick one you think will have the highest probability of success. Remember what we said about our build classes. If you have a problem with a build, 8 people will give you 10 options. 8)
re: The canopy. This is a perfect candidate for a balsa sheet and stick built canopy, spray paint it the colour you want, then cover the whole outside of the canopy with clear Monokote. No seams to leak. I can give you the clear Monokote. Try it. You will love it. It is a breeze. (note: My Stinson Voyager, Noorduyn Norseman and Taylorcraft used this method for the windows).
Frank
Love the canopy idea Frank.
Awesome build Bruce.
In the interest of water-resistance, I would carve and shape the canopy out of solid styrofoam, and then paint to simulate the windows and structure.
(Your paper mock-up lacks the forward angle at the front windows.)
My opinion; sorry if it's different from yours.
Bruce,
re: canopy/hatch.
Regardless of which build method you choose, use the model boat design of a vertical combing around the hatch edge that sticks up from the deck. The hatch/canopy slips over it. The worst hatch for a boat/seaplane is a flush one as we traditionally build for battery hatches on planes that never see water. I'll post a drawing....once I warm up my drawing skills.
So much for my drawing skills.
Photo 79- A great hatch on a Graupner Pollux tug..... for my grandkids to use in our back yard pool....once I am done with it. ;D
Photos 80 and 81- a poor hatch. On a Dumas PT 109. Water will funnel into the hull. It was built this way to allow proper access for starting an IC motor. It was designed before electric starters became popular. We used to use leather shoe laces to start IC engines. You needed a wide opening for it.... or we would accidentally widen the opening. :D
Frank
Thanks guys for the suggestions and comments. :)
I was also thinking about vacuum forming or simply try heat shrinking the plastic over a plug. (never done that before but I have seen Vic do it with success.)
Based upon your suggestions, I am leaning towards making it out of painted balsa and clear monocote (Frank, what an inspirational source of useless useful information). I like the water resistance qualities that can be achieved using this technique. Note that the cockpit area is not housing any electronics, but it would be nice to keep water out of the area anyhow.
I am still undecided?
Regarding water proofing the battery hatches: The technique suggested by Frank is what I used the last time and it worked great. (Didn't it Rob P?) I think I can make it even better with this model.
Thanks. Now to carry on...
Bruce:
re:"(Frank, what an inspirational source of useless useful information)."
There is a first time for everythingone. 8)
F.
Michael, Rob(s), Frank, Billy, Guy, (just to list a few)
Your builds are/have put me to shame, but...
What did I mean by that?
I have been in this hobby since being around 10 years old. Since that time I have built balsa/tissue covered model aircraft, foam model aircraft, even a model aircraft built with a broomstick among other novel materials.
All of these models have flown successfully, to a degree. (Success was often measured in flight durations of inches, feet and multiple flights occurring before the aircraft's final demise or its retirement.)
What was important to me, excited me, gave me pleasure, was the actual building of the model and the anticipation of the aircraft's maiden flight.
Some of the aircraft I had built and continue to build were/are ugly (many). I could live with their appearance, because I was looking forward to their flights (or attempts at flight). Many of the models when they were finished looked reasonable (beauty is in the eye of the beholder). Many of the models when completed actually resembled the full size aircraft that I was trying to replicate. Many looked like other full size aircraft that I wasn't trying to replicate. Their final appearance and flight outcomes didn't discourage me from starting another. I was happy with what I had accomplished. I tell others who look at my aircraft with a smirk that I was trying to build a 'stand way-off scale' model aircraft.
As I have matured with each build, I learned to savor the final outcome of each model, regardless of how it ended.
I admire the craftsmanship of those hobby enthusiast that can build beautiful scale aircraft like many you can see currently and in past posts within the forum.
RC model aircraft hobbyist have different skill levels. Their skills are demonstrated in the aircraft they have built and correspondingly in the skills with which they can fly.
I treasure most of the memories of what I have built. I enjoy sharing what I am doing while I am building. Others in the club do as well. This is obviously demonstrated in the forum posts. I construct my aircraft within my abilities. I don't envy the skills of others. With time, practice and through osmosis I hope that I may absorb some of their skills. Their skills inspire me.
Share the hobby with others. That's what this club is for. That is what it has achieved for years. That is what I am sure it will continue to achieve in the future.
Bruce:
re: your "I treasure most of the memories of what I have built. I enjoy sharing what I am doing while I am building. Others in the club do as well. This is obviously demonstrated in the forum posts. I construct my aircraft within my abilities. I don't envy the skills of others. With time, practice and through osmosis I hope that I may absorb some of their skills. Their skills inspire me."
Well said!
Ditto, Amen. 8)
Frank
Bruce,
Your comments, like the build itself, are truly appreciated!
@bweaver , you have put into words how I felt for many years. I started building since the ripe age of 13. Encouraged by my parents as a child to do something "constructive". No time left to cause or be in trouble. I too have learnt a lot from club members and friends I made along the way. I am most proud when a bunch of balsa and sticks and planks and other material come together and achieve the wonder of flight. And I am always proud to say: "
I MADE THAT FLY!".
Thank you for inspirational words.
Looking forward to seeing you and all the members when we are allowed to come up for some fresh air.... soon...
Guy
I had a chance to converse with Mr.
@Andy Hoffer yesterday.
He was mentioning to me, about his concern involving the composure of my Forum photographs. He believes I fail to focus on the subject and that there are too many things that otherwise distract the viewer from the subject. I told him, I disagree.
How are these Andy?
I know the one I prefer.
(By the way, the tail component is finished.)
Bruce
re:"I had a chance to converse with Mr. Andy Hoffer yesterday.".
So he's picking on you now. Consider it a badge of honour. ;D ;D He's given up on me. 8)
Frank
Balsa experiments can go in the green bin can't they? ???
Or Recycling? The Blue Bin
Quote from: davidk on April 02, 2020, 10:25:30 AM
Re: Or Recycling?
The balsa originally came out of my balsa recycling bin/box. Doesn't everyone have one? I know Frank does... ;D
re: Bruce's balsa scraps "Doesn't everyone have one? I know Frank does... ;D"
Somebody said I had scrap balsa??
A photo of two complete drawers with balsa and plywood scraps.
I had a bank of 4 drawers custom made with 39" wide, 22" deep and 7" high drawers so that 36" balsa sheets and sticks could fit with room to spare.
Then Rob D. wanted one too.
Frank
Bruce,
A comment on the canopy.
You had the grain running horizontally so when you got to the back end and pinned it together, the window frames would have split along the grain (across the middle of the window frames).
It looked like a really good attempt.
Two options:
1) Do the window frame area out of 1/16 balsa with the grain vertical and then put two 1/16" sq hard balsa stringers from front to back (horizontal) on the inside, one at the top of the window and one at the bottom of the windows.
2) Cut the wood out the way you had it with horizontal grain but put 1/16 x 1/4" vertical braces on the inside between the windows from the below the roof line down to the deck. This is to strengthen the cross grain between the windows (portholes?).
Regardless of which option chosen, dampen the wood around the window area before bending it. I lay a wet blue shop towel on the balsa for 10 minutes and it will bend easily.
I kinda prefer option 1 because the window walls appear to twist towards the back end.
FWIIW
Frank
@Frank v B , Frank, Frank, Frank, Frank,
It was obvious in my post that I was 'experimenting'... !
I wasn't looking for instructions one how to make a better one!
I was only asking if it was OK to put my balsa experiment failures in the green bin?[/b]
Having said that, I will go with Option 1.Thx
BRUCE, BRUCE, BRUCE, BRUCE:
It was obvious you knew but I was trying to help the rest of the membership through the options and why the original one broke.
I misinterpreted it as your attempt at take the membership through your recycling techniques.
You throw the stuff away. I plant it and watch it grow! ;D ;)
Keep going. I will get the clear Monokote ready.
Frank
ps: it was a very good first attempt. 8)
At this time, after multiple attempts at constructing the new cockpit canopy, I finally have something that should pass the 50/50 test for the cockpit canopy detail. I have taken a liberal amount of artistic license in completing this. When the model is finished, viewers will be able to especially appreciate the scale like appearance of cockpit and canopy when viewing the model flying horizontally overhead (but not over the pits).
@Frank v B , I'll take you up on the clear Monokote to cover it.
For those interested in knowing what the actual aircraft's cockpit detail looks like, I have included two photos below depicting the actual cockpit area within the wing.
To accommodate my building skills and desire to achieve a high degree of scale-like appearance, I'm not gonna even try to replicate it.
To achieve my desired degree of scale, I might replicate the cockpit detail by colouring the cockpit area under the canopy 'black', because when looking into the cockpit area from outside, it would naturally be dark in the cockpit.
In order to enhance the scale like appearance a little bit, I might go so far as to install two pilot heads (maybe including shoulders too) in there, provided I can find the right size. :-\
Bruce,
Brilliant building of the cockpit hatch.
The Monokote is ready and eager to take up its place in history.
Frank
Impressive!
Awesome cockpit greenhouse! Very nice!
And those images of the full size cockpit! Amazing. What a blast from the past. You can see the pilots literally sat in the leading edge of the wing. So cool!
Robert
I do not know if you have seen this video, but it is superb, just not electric and a bit larger than yours...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGGHeaImuu8&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR32BRCr0OQN9LGQ0zhTSl2x5JKNnnCtsa5g83USPpSmIKVUeQs3_19mPBY
Enjoy!
Thanks
@GuyOReilly , I have watched this video and a number of other videos and photos people have made available in many ways on the internet. What a great resource for gaining ideas and seeing successes which encourage me to carry on. (Just like TEMACs Forum)
The photos below depict the evolution to date.
I am hoping to be painting by next week once all the fiberglass is completed and sanded.
The pill bottle base is going to be my new front cowl.
The last photo puts the plane size in perspective. Katie says she's not my personal photographer and it's going to cost me.
Everyone keep well and I hope to see you soon at the field or the water side.
:) :) :) :) :) :) :)
The Marchetti is looking fantastic, Bruce!
Looks awesome Bruce. Good job. Can't wait to see it fly.
Hail to the King of Blue Foam!
Thanks guys for your kind comments.
Photos 1 and 2 - The plywood hull center alignment tabs have been cut off. Everything is aligned and not going anywhere. They serve no longer any function, so begone.
Fiberglass done. Only minor touch ups here and there.
Photo 3 - Guess what these are? No, they're not blue foam futuristic speakers. No their not tomb stones for Bottom R and B.
If you guessed they are blue foam water resistant battery hatch covers, you are right. (Magnets yet to be installed.)
The plane is all set for painting provided we get good weather for doing it outside.
I have yet to finish off the front cowl and pylon decorative motor enclosure. (photo's to come as future progress occurs)
While examining the model, I have come to the conclusion that the booms as currently constructed will not have sufficient strength to withstand the stresses of multiple flights. The piano wire and the spruce pieces used in the construction were consistent with the expanded size of the spruce booms shown on the drawings that I had expanded by 20%. I am just not comfortable with it.
In order to strengthen the booms, I am laminating 1/16th inch plywood strips to both sides of the top and bottom spruce boom components. In order to reduce the lateral flexibility of each of the booms I am also going to apply a third plywood strip to the bottom of the laminated booms as well.
I have not decided if it will be necessary to install functional wire bracing in a similar manner as that used in the full size aircraft for structural purposes. (Any thoughts on this and/or tips on how to do it?)
Photo 1 - Depicts both sides of how the battery hatches and hulls will overlap to reduce water infiltration while taking off and landing.
Photo 2 - Depicts the original booms. The horizontal tail surface has a 20 inch span. (As previously mentioned, the tail while finished as a separate structure will not be secured to the booms until after painting.)
Also in the same photo one can see that the front cowl has been cut from the base of a plastic bottle. (The cowl is just sitting there, not secured yet.)
Photo 3 - Depicts the 4 plywood strips that I have cut from a sheet of plywood for use in reinforcing one boom.
Photo 4 - Demonstrates that I also have and use clamps when constructing models. ;) I am using thin CA to laminate the plywood to the spruce.
Bruce, Looking neat. I love the awkward elegance. ;)
Two observations:
The booms- The reinforcing strips look really good and should add a lot of strength. I am wondering if any side force during a landing when one hull hits the water before the other
will whiplash the whole tail assembly sideways. It may be worth adding some non-stretching line (spider wire fishing line) from the back end of one boom to the root of the opposite one. (a horizontal "X" pattern).
The hulls- from my hydroplane days way back, one of the rules on a planing hull was that the chines (bottom corners) had to be razor sharp and not rounded otherwise the water goes up the sides and sucks the hull into the water. It never gets on a plane.
I googled the SM X55S and saw this video of a large model of this plane that clearly shows sharp chines. Of course, if the first model got off the water, larger hulls of the same shape should be able to get off the water.
FWIIW
Frank
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGWXOHjjzQ0
Thanks for the comments and suggestions
@Frank v B .
My smaller original model was successful in getting off the water. Upon examining the bottom edges of the hulls ('chines' - I had to look that up) , they were relatively straight edges and not rounded like how I have shaped the foam hulls on this model. (Wish I had known about chines before.)
Considering I haven't painted the plane yet and the fact that the hulls are only blue foam board, I think I may modify the bottom edges of each hull to avoid the problem of the hulls being sucked into the water. (I am building an airplane, not a submarine, so your advice will be useful.)
I will also get some 'spider wire fishing line' and install it in the manner suggested to strengthen the structure as well.
YPWGFFT
Bruce,
re; the chines. I can think of two simple ways of adding chines to your hulls.
1) Add small balsa tri-stock to the transition point (where the hull sides become the bottom) on the hull. Glue the hypotenuse to the hull and let the corner stick out at 45 degrees. The bottom of the tri-stock will deflect the water away from the side of the hull. In boating terms, you are creating a cathedral hull, closer to the hull in the video.
or,
2) add a strip of 1/2" wide, 1/32 thick ply chine (or 1/16 but it will be tougher to bend) Slice a groove in the hull at a 45 degree angle with a #11 blade at the waterline and make it go up at the bow so it can get up on step. Slip the 1/32 ply into the groove and leave about 1/4" sticking out. Glue in place.
I will Google some photos of planes with chines (the CL 215 has them) and add them soon.
Found photos of a CL 215 and the Martin Mars.
Frank
ps. my alphabet soup sign-off was "For What It Is Worth". I have drawn a blank on your spilled alphabet soup.
Way ahead of you
@Frank v B .
Using my favorite foam shaping tool, I shaped the foam hull bottom/side area in order to apply another piece of blue foam. I then cut another piece of blue foam to apply to same area. I applied the foam glue. Made the glue tacky like you do with contact cement, then stuck them together when really tacky.
Once dry, I will shape the bottom to the side ending up with straight edges (a chine). I won't be able to shave with it, but it still should do the trick and still float. (Three more sides to go, then reapply some fiberglass to the areas before painting.) I will provide more photos after the shaping is completed.
ps. my alphabet soup sign-off was "Your Post Was Great Food For Thought". Just to help you get your mind out of 'blank' mode.
Great Job.
I forgot I was dealing with Bruce who can solve any problem........... he creates. ;D ;D ;D
Frank
ps: Love the Roger Mason "can sand anything" DuraGrit sanding tool. It is absolutely the best.
Right on... All of their hand and Dremel tools/accessories are fantastic for when creativity flows or you want to grind something down fast!
(Having seen others personal messages at the end of there posts, I have been motivated to add my own personal saying at the end of my posts. See below.
"When you don't have skill, you can try luck and/or experimentation. One should work, provided you try long enough." (A genuine Bruce Weaverism)
The following pictures depict my blue foam chine installation and hull shaping enhancement/experimentation.
I have 3 more hull sides and fronts to go. Then fiberglass the alterations as well.
So an old dog can learn new tricks.
You will probably be referring to them as "Frank's (expletive) corners". ;) from now on.
Sorry chief. ;D
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on May 20, 2020, 03:20:02 PM
So an old dog can learn new tricks.
You will probably be referring to them as "Frank's (expletive) corners". ;) from now on.
Sorry chief. ;D
Frank
First, I have updated the title of this topic by adding to it '...a never ending story'.
@Frank v B , please you needn't say 'sorry' for your thoughtful observations and comments about the missing chines.
For those who may be interested/care, when I start a topic in TEMAC's forum, I feel it is never too late to make recommendations or comment on the subject matter I have provided, because the information can always be taken FWIW. This time I took it, and I love the improvements I am slowly making to the model. It's a great hobby isn't it?
I have to say thank you again Frank, because what you brought to my attention about the hull shapes was what I needed to have to be brought to my attention. In my mind at the time, I new something just didn't look right each time I looked at my model. The foam model's shape just didn't have the appeal I had experienced while building my first model of the aircraft.
The photos below illustrate the changes made so far to one of the hulls. I'll get around soon to making similar improvements to the other hull.
Trust me, I am definitely striving to have this model get into the air and fly. Really, it will be sooner than later. (Rationale for why I have modified the topic title.)
It will fly... even if I have to rely on
@Andy Hoffer assistance to have evidence of it in the air. :) :) :) :)
Bruce,
Thank you for the thank you.
We all have experiences (mistakes we learned from?) in our past that can apply to stuff we see and do today. No different than your suggestion of a smoke alarm in Vadim's workshop. That was probably from some experience in your past*. We can all contribute in some way. .... and then there is Andy. Some day we will figure out what he.... ;) ;)
...and almost 3400 hits on this topic. We at least find your wanderings entertaining. 8)
Frank
* career fireman and 10 years in the Fire Marshall's office. 8)
Bruce knows his limitations so well he has a full fledged fire sprinkler system in his basement... or maybe because he knew that some day I was going to be doing some plumbing work in his house. ;D ;D
Still plodding away...
Back to using a beer-can approach to making portions of the pylon motors enclosure.
I reviewed a number of historical videos and took some screen shots to help me in this endeavor.
I cut the beer-can using my Dremel, safety glasses and a pair of scissors. The vertical vents will be made by using a rounded chisel to make the holes in the can and then bend the vent metal back to replicate the original venting.
I am still not satisfied with the cockpit canopy. I have put it on another diet. (see last photo) I may toss it out and try doing something else to make a more realistic representation of the canaopy.
@davidk has agreed to come over next week to assist when I paint the plane.
The maiden is getting closer.
Refer to previous post above. Screen shots.
Semi gloss white applied today.
Tomorrow, semi gloss black and semi gloss hunter green.
Absolutely Brilliant Bruce. I can't wait to see it fly.
Go Bruce!!
Keep telling Katie you are working on your insulation project.
Interesting to note in the 3 view:
- the under-cambered wing. The under-cambering starts aft of the balance point. It must act as wash-in at the back end.
- I calculated the positive incidence* of the motors at +10 degrees. I would never have guessed.
Frank
* yes, I got the protractor out.
@Frank v B , I am glad you never would have guessed, because the drawing illustrates an under-cambered wing. The construction plans for both of my projects didn't have any under-camber built in. Go figure.
When I built it, I didn't even get my protractor out. I just built each motor's platform aligned in the same incidence as that shown on the plans.
I assume you are saying that the rear under portion of the wing will be washed by the water as it crests above the water. (And it's not even dirty.)
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Too humid today to do two different colors. Only got the hull bottoms done in green (for those who may be blue green color blind).
(I didn't turn it over yet to see a proper side view, but... if you look closely, you can see the chines.)
:)
She is truly beautiful
@bweaver . I am looking forward to a portrait session of you and your Marchetti. Both you and the plane have exquisite lines, form and stage presence. (http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,7272.msg50687.html#msg50687) 8)
Andy
Thanks Rob (
@octagon ) and
@Andy Hoffer for your encouragement.
Now for some Dollar Store paint tricks.
Bruce, this is amazing work. Wow!
Thank you Simon (
@sihinch )
We know what we can do with blue foam.
If you can build an fly a beautiful Space Shuttle out of blue foam, then I ....
It's just fun to experiment.
Quote from: bweaver on July 04, 2020, 04:54:06 PM
Thank you Simon ( @sihinch )
We know what we can do with blue foam.
If you can build an fly a beautiful Space Shuttle out of blue foam, then I ....
It's just fun to experiment.
Hi
@sihinch Just to be clear, the foam is used in the
airplane, NOT to enhance the photos of
@bweaver . I never retouch perfection, physically or otherwise. 8)
Andy
Simon used my 2 adjectives
Amazing!
WOW!
I am bound and determined to maiden the plane this week finished or not.
I had trouble cutting the cables for the elevator and rudder pushrods. I finally went to my second source of reference for advice after Frank (YouTube) and found that a hammer and old set of wire cutters will do the trick. Just like a guillotine going through butter... (photo 1)
I had to make some brackets to hold the pushrod cables with the sheath in place along the booms. This was accomplished by obtaining very thin aluminum sheet. I cut it with what used to be a good pair of scissors. I drilled a large hole for the cable sheath to pass through and the smaller holes are for the epoxy to oooooz through and stay in place on the booms.
The last few photos depict how I am making the servo and receiver compartments water resistant. A piece of Depron was shaped to fit tightly into the openings. Then a piece of white trim sheeting was applied over top. A couple of black trim bits was added, then tape. If it leaks, it leaks.
The battery compartments need to be finished and hook and loop installed to retain them in place.
The model with batteries weighs just under 6 pounds.
I think I will maiden it without the cockpit canopy and motor enclosures installed. The canopy, because I am making a new one. The motor enclosure, because it is not finished yet, plus I want to see how warm the ESCs will get.
I can use 3 or 4 cells for power. I can use regular or 3 bladed props. I have yet to decide which to use to maiden the mode at this point.
This just keeps on getting better and better. Bravo Bruce.
Looking great
@bweaver !
Re cutting the cables, did you try a Dremel tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel?
Looking forward to your maiden flight.
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on July 27, 2020, 08:18:12 PM
Looking great @bweaver !
Re cutting the cables, did you try a Dremel tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel?
Looking forward to your maiden flight.
Andy
Thank you Simon. Thank you Andy.
The problem I have with cutting stranded cables is the fray. I did try the Dremel and it just didn't give me a clean cut. I tried applying solder to the cables before using the Dremel too and it wasn't much better. That is why I put the hammer/brick/plier wire cutter method to use and provided the tip on the forum to help others avoid the fray too. The hammer, the pliers and brick were not worse for the wear...
@Frank v B Please refer to the screen capture below.
There are few things I find more exciting and enjoyable than having my morning coffee and seeing that I have a TEMAC Forum email notification, indicating that Frank v B has posted a reply on my forum topic. (Oh what words will Frank provide to encourage and motivate?) ???
After clicking the link, my excitement turned to disappointment. :( :( Frank, your reply was gone. :( It was not there. Nothing was there, other than my post preceding this one. :'( :'( :'(
Now, all I can do is guess what words of wisdom/advice you had intended to provide and then revoked?
I can only think of a few and make by best guess at replying.
"Yes Frank, I had turned on the Dremel."
"Yes Frank, I was using the proper Dremel cutting tool and not a wet noodle."
"Yes Frank, I did try using just the handles on the cutting pliers, but I am not as strong as I used to be."
"Yes Frank, you can borrow my brick and cutting pliers any time."
"Yes Frank, it is blue foam and I expect it to float."
"Yes Frank, I made it, so yes, I expect it to leak."
"Yes Frank, it is getting closer to the end of the never ending story"
Hi
@bweaver ,
I was similarly disappointed that
@Frank v B 's posted reply had vanished. I was so salivating when I got the email notification.
But I think you have conjured up a superb set of anticipatory responsa that should fully tax his cerebral CPU for a good week or so.
Bravo Sir! I salute you. 8)
Andy
Bruce and Andy,
"I know Nothing!"
Frank
ps: Truer words were never spoken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HblPucwN-m0
Thanks to everyone that attended the model's maiden flight today as part of the Scugog Float Flyers.
The flying conditions were perfect for the maiden. Low onshore light breeze.
The model took off and flew great with some down trim required and a click or two of aileron adjustment. Once trimmed it flew hands off at about half throttle.
Many thanks Rob P for the assistance with the trimming and for his verbal guidance while managing the first flight. I used the 3 cell batteries for this first flight test. Seemed fine. Lots of power.
It was my fault on landing. I stalled it by failing to keep the power up. It tip stalled and plunged straight down from probably 20 feet into the water and popped back up like a life boat hitting the water and popping to the surface after ejecting from the side of an off shore oil rig.
The electronic waterproofing did its job because even after the motors and ESCs got soaked, I was able to power it up and return the model to shore. The only damage to the model was some fiberglass came loose off of one of the ailerons bottoms. The dangling fiberglass was trimmed off and the model was good to go for its next flight. I love blue foam. Solid!
The next flight, I used 4 cell batteries. It took off with more authority and flew uneventfully, finishing with in my opinion a much better landing. Not great, but I can work on that with more throttle management.
Anyways thanks to everyone for your support during this build. The final construction and decoration will be documented in this post.
It would be nice if some of the people that were there today who took some pictures will post them.
David Kates has a few photos. Thanks David. Here is a link. http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,7571.msg51104.html#msg51104
I am very fortunate to witness the maiden flight. The plane flew beautifully. The build is very detail and to scale. Very well done Bruce
Quote from: Oscar on July 31, 2020, 10:12:57 PM
I am very fortunate to witness the maiden flight. The plane flew beautifully. The build is very detail and to scale. Very well done Bruce
Thanks
@Oscar for your photos and kind words.
Adding the chines back to the hulls really made a difference in returning its replica appearance so that I can happily say with some confidence that it is a 'stand off scale' model of the original aircraft. (Standing way off improves the scale appearance significantly while understanding that the real aircraft wasn't made of blue foam.)
Your cheque is in the mail... ;)
@bweaver ,
Congratulations on a fantastic work of art and engineering. She truly is a beauty! You have really outdone yourself.
It's a real treat for all of us to see something that is unique and beautiful, and which has been lovingly crafted by one of our own. Nothing out of a box can match it. Thank you for giving us a huge dose of inspiration. Personally, you have inspired me to get my Pitts repaired and back in the sky. Thanks so much.
Bravo Sir!
Andy
Ending the storey
I was looking back at some of my old forum posts and noticed that I hadn't provided details of the finished pylon, cockpit canopy and decals. Here it is.
Pylon - The front motor cowling was cut/made from the bottom of a plastic vitamin bottle. The sides of the enclosure are simply sheet aluminum cut from a beer can, with vent like perforations chiseled through the aluminum and the flaps bent up as desired. The top of the enclosure is a blue foam base with more beer can sheeting with blue foam shaped motor stuff epoxied on top and painted with dollar store paints. The exhausts are plastic tube cut to the desired lengths and shape and epoxied in place. To access and service the enclosed motors and electronics, I can simply remove a couple of screws and the front cowling and the top of the enclosure can be easily taken off.
Canopy - I gave up on constructing a detailed cockpit canopy and went with what else, ... a canopy shaped out of more blue foam. This was covered with black and silver adhesive MonoKote trim sheeting, with silver pin-striping used for framing the windows. This method was suggested by Michael. I am happy with the end result. Thanks Michael.
Decals - The decals were made using Avery clear adhesive labels. Easy to do and inexpensive.
If when viewing the photo of the model you find it not looking that pretty or realistic, just move your viewing screen further away from you and its appearance improves significantly. (At least I think so.)
I'm looking forward to this white water around us changing into open water.
Here endith the story.
Hi
@bweaver ,
A great story with a happy ending!
But you've got to tell us what type of vitamins were used for the motor cowling (B100, C, D, E, ...)!!
Love the chiseled vents!
Andy
Quote from: Andy Hoffer on February 27, 2021, 05:26:24 AM
Hi @bweaver ,
A great story with a happy ending!
But you've got to tell us what type of vitamins were used for the motor cowling (B100, C, D, E, ...)!!
Love the chiseled vents!
Andy
@Andy Hoffer I can tell you what kind of beer can I used, but not the vitamins. (The vitamins obviously weren't for memory enhancement...)