I crashed my much cherished Northstar. I had repeated radio problems causing uncontrollable rolls. Despite getting it safely on the ground, I stupidly tried for another flight and then smashed it into the ice.
It was not totally destroyed, but I decided to buy and build a new one, as there were a few problems in the previous one that were inherent in the build.
It was not water-proof (there were holes for landing gear, and the aileron and rudder linkages were low and would have been submerged if placed on water), thus unflyable from water, the elevator had slop (would slip up a down a bit on its own), and the rudder wasn't very effective on the ground.
Here I go. I will post photos, but basically I will concentrate on, and point out, the changes I make to suit what I want.
The wing is started.
I'm slowly working on the wing.
First modification: No landing gear. I flew my previous version for 4 years without landing gear, so I will not build any of the landing gear supports in the wing.
Since this is something I'm not doing, photos of my non-work are not necessary.
Initial wing construction is done. All parts and construction for landing gear were left out.
Work on the fuselage commences.
Michael,
Regarding your modifications: "Since this is something I'm not doing, photos of my non-work are not necessary."
Here is the photo support.
Frank
ps: sorry Michael. It has been a long and miserable winter ;)
The funniest part... I actually had to reduce the photos of nothing in order to be able to post them. Ben F. had the last laugh. 8)
Fuselage construction under way ....
Modifications include cutting (mostly rectangular) holes in the formers to allow for the power system wires, and no bracing for the (not-to-be-used) front landing gear.
Although I haven't yet decided on how to install servos, I did drill holes in the formers, for flexible pushrods, as per instructions, in case I follow the intended plans/instructions servo installation.
More work on the fuselage, as per instructions, except:
The instructions call for vertical balsa supports for the former onto which the front landing gear would attach. Since I'm not installing landing gear, the supports are being omitted.
Okay, I'm at a crossroad.
Do I install the linkages as per instructions, meaning that some will exit the fuselage under the water-line, or do I make significant changes.
Things to consider:
- Many of these planes have been built as per instructions and they function well. (I suppose I could try to water-proof the linkages as best as possible.)
- Installing linkages above the wing could/would bring them close to the spinning propeller.
- The standard installation doesn't swing the upper rudder.
- The standard installation leaves slop (looseness) in the elevator deflection.
I think I will install the flexible pushrod tubes as per instructions anyway, but I think I will install smaller servos in the tail for the elevator and upper rudder.
Bell crank it at the top of the wing? Servos at the middle of the fuse?
Quote from: Gregor77 on March 02, 2022, 12:59:48 PM
Bell crank it at the top of the wing? Servos at the middle of the fuse?
I don't understand.
Bell crank
what at the top of the wing?
Servos at the middle of the fuse for
what?
All flexible pushrod sleeves installed, except of course the throttle cable for a internal combustion engine.
They're secured very well, and I don't think there's any 'slop'.
Front plywood former cut open so the battery can be placed forward, to help with balancing.
Cut-outs in a fin former for power and radio wires.
Nose block glued on and mostly shaped.
Wing fitted to the fuselage.
I've been spending a lot of time and effort on the wing.
There's a fair amount of measuring, cutting, sanding, shaping and curving parts. It's a bit challenging at times, but the built-up structure is really beautiful, and worth the effort.
In my previous model, the propeller came off the motor shaft a few times, and the spinning cut a series of slashes through the top wing and fuselage. Although these were easy to repair, there were also cuts to the radio and power wires. In order to avoid that, I've decided to put all electrical wiring (to the rear of the plane; the motor will be at the rear on the front of the fin) in the bottom of the fuselage, under the wing.
Other than planning where the wiring will be, there have been no modifications to the construction of the wing.
Sorry, I was trying to say, keep the two alerion servos in the center fuse, use a bell crank set up to run the rods to the outer wing. keeps servos dry!
Quote from: Gregor77 on March 07, 2022, 06:33:43 PM
Sorry, I was trying to say, keep the two alerion servos in the center fuse, use a bell crank set up to run the rods to the outer wing. keeps servos dry!
OK, makes sense, but I think I'll stick with the recommended linkages, based on the success of so many others built and flown.
Wing and ailerons are finished, and ready to be glued onto the fuselage, but I think I'll sand it smoother a few times first.
Wires for motor and speed control in place.
Power pod on fin. Modified with a hatch, and a new firewall, which centers the motor about a half-inch higher, allowing for a bit more propeller clearance.
Front (battery and radio) hatch held on with magnets.
Ready for covering. I will use a combination of fabric-textured iron on covering (for the open wing construction area), and fiberglass cloth and water-based polyurethane (for everything else). That will be followed by a water-based paint finish.
Another great build
@Michael .
Thanks, Guy.
Fabric-textured heat-shrink covering on the open structure.
Fiberglass-cloth covering started.
White flat primer is being applied. When dry, it will be easy to see if any areas need to be further sealed/waterproofed.
Colour being applied. Acrylic paint out of a tube, mixed about 50/50 with water, hand brushed.
More paint, hand-brushed.
Masking tape (green) really helps with the paint colour separation.
Finished. 6 weeks; not bad.
Motor shimmed a bit forward to give just a bit of clearance in front of the fin.
Radio components installed including an electronic stabilizer. The stabilizer is connected to an on/off switch for safety.
The motor shaft does appear to be slightly bent, causing some vibrations. It`s not so bad, so I'll try to maiden the model as is.
Modifications:
The instructions call for a good amount of lead weight to be added to the nose, but I didn't do this, as there would be no (8 to 10 ounce) fuel tank in the tail, and there would be a heavy battery in the nose. The model balanced perfectly with no other added weight.
I added an air scoop (see image in post above) to allow air cooling for the speed control.
Really beautiful work Michael. You should be proud!
I'm happy to report the maiden flight went really well. Only minor trim was needed, and I was confident enough to do several rolls on the maiden flight. Took off smoothly and landed gently on grass. No repairs nor adjustments necessary.
It (my second Northstar) flew great for a year, until I flew high-alpha at too-low altitude, made a mistake, and totaled it, early 2023!
I was lucky enough to buy a mostly built model a couple months ago. I finished the construction, converted it to electric power, and have begun to finish it.
I started fiber-glassing with water-based poly-urethane. I'll post more images as I make progress.
Let me know if you run short on fibreglass. I bought 10 meters and I can spare some.
Great looking model.
Thanks Guy, but I have enough.
In the mean time, I started painting the model (fiber-glassed where I felt it was needed) with a white-primer. When dry, it'll be easier to see any areas needing improvement. I'll then improve what's needed, and start the colour painting.
I made a modification to the tail. The fin and stabilizer are supposed to be glued to the nacelle (at the rear). I decided to make it detachable (like many ARFs) in case I need to work on stuff that's in there: wiring, the speed control, elevator connection, etc.).
Painting ...
Looks great, looking forward to seeing it fly.
Painting mostly finished.
I added a thick coat of epoxy on the bottom of the front-fuselage and the tip-floats; the areas that will slide on the grass, or takeoff area.
Also, a skid was installed at the rear bottom to protect the rudder from being pulled off by grass.
Very nice Michael!
Since I bought this plane with most basic construction completed, not everything was built as I would have done. The ailerons, formed as per the kit instructions, taper to a thinner width towards the outer wing. They would probably function alright, but thinner ailerons are not as effective as wider ailerons, especially at the outer wing area. So, I constructed new non-tapered ailerons instead.
Finished, and ready to fly!
Triple-rates programmed for the 'flippy' surfaces; electronic-gyro-stabilizer installed, model is balanced, one more coat of high-gloss clear-coat, and decals applied.
The power system reaches 60 amps at full throttle with a 5-cell 5,000mah lipo battery pack, 60amp speed control, and a 3-blade 11/8 propeller, which produces 1,100 watts of power.
Note the raised motor for propeller clearance, and the neat radio installation.
Now I'll wait for a nice soft layer of snow, or I'll wait for spring.
Congrats on finishing the rebuild!