Great choice of colour.
Looking forward to seeing it fly!

Looks amazing!

Starting the assembly
#33 - As I'm installing the motor and tightening the bolts, one of t-nuts pops out and is now turning freely, not allowing me to even unscrew the bolt. This is despite being super careful when installing the t-nuts and testing to make sure they were secure.
After fiddling with it I gave up, and using a Dremel cut-off wheel, cut the head off the bolt.
Once again Frank talks me off the ledge (This has become a 2nd profession of his )and provides some guidance on how to solve this. Eventually I got the t-nut back in place, and being VERY careful was finally able to get the t-nut to bite into the ply.
#34&36 - Assembly was easier than I expected, and only needed a little coaxing to get all the struts screwed into place.
#35 - Getting ready to glue the tail feathers into place, and using a level to make sure it's positioned correctly.

I had lined up the landing gear drilled holes for the strap screws.
#30 - Although hard to see, the circles show where one screw hit the plywood, and one missed. Good thing i found this, and was able to add another piece of ply.
#31-32 - I used the method to locate the LG holes in covering as I did with the straps.

Starting the covering.
I prefer to use UltraCote because of it's shrinking characteristics.
#26 - I had to figure out how to cut slots in the covering where the straps were located. I preferred to the make panel as a single piece to try eliminate seams.
The backing of the Ultracote is very transparent, so used that to create a template.
1st Cut the panel for the wing section
Next I cut a large slot in the backing only, approximately where the strap was.
I used tape to make the slot size and position more accurate. Then put the backing and covering and back together, and cut the slot in the covering. When I put the covering on the wing the slots matched up with straps. Not perfect, but quite good.
If someone has a better way of doing this please let me know - I would be very interested.
#26-29 Examples of how terrible the UltraCote looks when first ironed on. Then how it looks after using the heat gun

Some pics of the completed fuse.
#21-#23 are repairs and adjustments needed after the 1st sanding.
24-25 - Full dry fit

14 - Gluing the motor box to firewall. Another tip from Frank I've used is to wrap the motor box with dental floss (NOT used  ) and then cover it it all in epoxy. This increases the strength.
15&16 - Framing the nose.
17 - Sheeting the nose

#11 - Before drilling the holes for the wing bolts, I measured the wings to be square. Despite taking my time and doing this several times, I still messed it up. 
After Frank talked me off the ledge, he provided the instructions to fix this.
#12 - Battery hatch cover. Making sure the magnets all lined up,
#13 - I used paper to make the template for the cockpit sheeting

Dry fitting the fuse showed that I had to make allowances for the Cabane strut tabs.
Also some weights in the middle ensured the fuse came out straight

More of the same occurred in the ply that made up the fuse.
Again Windex, and weight got a lot of the bend out.
Once everything was glued and held in place with with clamps and weights, the fuse came out quite straight.
FYI - I use ceramic tile as weights because they're heavy but spread the weight evenly (so denting in the wood), and glue does not stick to the glaze.