Have started building my Chica.
Done so far:
- drew the full size wing plans. The plans only show half a wing.
- cut out all the ribs and made 20 at once using the rib templates Rob used as well.
- the ribs are in place along with the two main spars and trailing edge.
Some decisions I have made along the way after carefully looking at the plans and talking to Rob:
- a bolt-on wing- I cannot store any more one piece planes. A personal storage issue. I will be using 4 nylon bolts so the wing actually holds the fuse together. When I saw Rob's fuse I decided it was deep enough below the wing to make the wing removable. Thanks Rob!
- changed it to a "D tube" wing from the full slotted main spar and slotted ribs which is very European and very control-line and difficult to cut accurately.
- eliminated the two centre ribs- I will be laying some carbon fibre veil between the main spar and the leading edge sheeting for strength.
- increased the sweep of the wing tips and matched the tail plane with the same swept tips. The stab, as designed, was a plain rectangle.
- two aileron servos in the wing to eliminate the torque rods. Much easier.
- battery hatch on top per Rob's plane to change batteries.
- A snarli-able motor. Will be trying an E-Flite .15 motor (DF) which has the same diameter as the Series 6 (28mm, 400 watt max.) but can go up to 4 S and 800 watts. Why not! Live dangerously. You can always throttle back.....if you have to! Will fly on 3S....but.... you never know. I could get Hinchcliffe-itis ;)
Have taken photos but will have to take the course from my son "Downloading photographs for idiots" before I can share them with you.;D
Frank
Here we go with the photos!!
Photo 1- drawing the full size wing plan: i) draw the main spar full span, in this case 39" ii) draw the rib location starting at the center. The middle two ribs are spaced exactly as far out as the fuselage sides. The ribs are drawn with a plastic triangle against the main spar and a one foot metal ruler against the other side to make the ribs perfectly perpendicular to the main spar.
The pen is pointed at the middle of the wing.
No need for the trailing edge or leading edge to be drawn in because the ribs are all the same. The ribs determine their proper location.
The stack of ribs is shown to the right.
Photo 2 Shows the ribs drawn in with 2" spacing, roughly equal to the original plan. This photo shows the left wing half. The angled line at the left end is the wingtip.
Photo 3 shows the finished wing plan. The two spars are up against a 3' steel ruler. The 1/4" spars were not straight. As long as the bends are opposed, the wing will be straight. The plan has been covered with a sheet of waxed paper to stop the glue from sticking to the plan.
Photo 4- start with the main spar. Regardless of what the plans indicate, pin the opposite ends (wingtip ends) of the spar in place, then put a metal yardstick to the bottom main spar and and pin the middle in place. The spar must be absolutely straight.
Wing build
photo 5- this mock-up shows how to build a symmetrical wing. The trailing edge needs to be raised so the main spar can be pinned to the board. Put a spacer underneath the trailing edge so the rib can rest on it. The spacer is wider than the trailing edge so the rib can rest on it. Note the waxed paper between the trailing edge and the wood used to raise the trailing edge from the board so errant glue won't stick to it.
photo 6: The trailing edge was glued together from two pieces (39" span, 36"wood!) using epoxy and a doubler used as a brace. Sylvester is pointing to the joint.
photo 7 : I used a 1/8" piece of balsa 1" wide as a false leading edge. It is pinned flat on the board and sticks out above the ribs until the glue has dried. This will then be planed and sanded even with the ribs. The real leading edge will be added after the top and bottom sheeting has been added.
Photo 8: the finished basic wing drying overnight. Note: I use carpenters glue because my wife is allergic to CA, luckily not model airplanes. ;D. Note the word "TOP" written on the top spar. This is so that the orientation will be correct so the bends in the top and bottom spars are opposed to make a straight wing. Also note the photo shows the leading edge flat on the building board.
Photo 9- The leading edge sheeting on the top of the wing. Note the carbon veil on top of the main spar. The sheet is put in place and pinned down.
Photo 10- the leading edge sheeting pinned in place. To avoid the sheeting getting wavy between the ribs, the metal yardstick is stood on edge and clamped to the false leading edge. This gives even pressure while the glue dries overnight.
Photo 11 The trailing edge is prepped for a 3/4" wide piece of 1/16 balsa. Note the carbon veil over the center section joint. This is all pinned in place.
Photo 12- the wing ready to dry overnight. Make sure the main spar, trailing edge and leading edge are pinned down to the board so the wing stays straight while it dries. Next step is to turn it over and do the same sheeting work to the bottom side.
Frank
looks good Frank. Different than mine a bit (by about 550 watts and 1S).
Strengthening the wing:
Photo 13 - re-inforcement of the wing centre part to allow the wing to be screwed in. It is lite ply with the center cut out. There will be 4 bolts. Two on the leading edge, two on the trailing edge.
Photo 14 Photo taken of the bottom of the wing. The parts to fill in the leading edge (2 pieces) and the trailing edge (1 piece). This fill is to make sure wing does not crush when the 4 wing bolts are tightened. Also visible is the doubler for the main spar that covers 7 bays. The little piece left of center at the bottom of the wing is a piece of rib I accidentally broke when cutting the slots for the spar doubler. I'm only human!
Photo 15 spar doubler epoxied in place with 4 clamps to hold it until it dries. Yes I slipped some carbon veil between the spar and the spar doubler.
Photo 16- For those of you who have never seen or used carbon veil, this is a photo of my hand under a sheet of carbon veil.
Now off to dinner while the wing dries.
Next step- shear webs.
Frank
Dinner's over! Back to work.
Photo 17- shows the shear webs in place. I did the overlap type because they are easier and faster.... unlike Rob's between the spar shear webs that are a lot slower to install. From Rob's post ".....and tomorrow will do the shear webs (I don't quite know why, but I hate installing shear webs, so tedious I guess)."
Photo 18 Trailing edge in place. A light sand, a 3/8" wide piece of carbon veil over the trailing edge and then the trailing edge sheeting on top. Pinned to the board and weighted down so it can dry overnight.
Next steps- bottom sheeting, center sheeting, wing tips and servo installation.
Frank
Photos below show the progress:
Photo 19- photo taken with wing upside down. Top sheeting installed, trailing edge glued to the centre portion of the wing, two servos installed. The servos are glued to the rib with 5 minute epoxy, then balsa wood webbing was glued around the servo to lock it in and re-inforce the rib. In my last several airplanes I have glued the servos in because it is lot easier. Servos are cheap. If one fails, I will cut it out and put in a hatch.
Also note the servo is put in with the servo arm parallel to the wing service. This makes for easy adjustment, easy arm replacement and push-rod adjustment. If the arm is perpendicular to the wing you can't get at the screw easily.
The trailing edge is glued to the centre portion of the wing.
Photo 20 Aileron edge photo- Killing two problems with one stone- I only had a 36" section of aileron stock but the wing is 39" wide. The centre section is from wider aileron stock. I glued triangular stock to the aileron's leading edge (shown as the darkened triangle). This extended the aileron by 3/8" and angled it at the same time. Saved a lot of sanding time and dust.
Starting the fuselage
Photo 21- tape the fuse plans together to make it whole. To transfer the fuselage to the balsa, I placed the plan on top of the balsa wood with the long edge on the datum line, used a pin to mark the corners, the former locations (double dots at the straight edge) and the rocker bottom.
Photo 22 - mark the pinholes on the balsa with a pen or magic marker.
Photo 23 - make the rocker bottom by placing a pin in the balsa at the start of the rocker and bend a metal ruler with one hand. Run your pen along once you match the dots with the bend in the ruler. Yes, it is quick and easy.
Photo 24 connect all the dots with a pen or magic marker. Also, mark the location of the formers with a double line and a rectangle against the datum line to make sure they are vertical.
Photo 25- cut out the first side. I do this free-hand with an Exacto 11 blade. Once cut out and marked, sand the edge smooth to take out any cutting errors. Now put the first finished side on a new section of balsa wood and trace it with a pen and cut it out. Cut this side inside the pen lines. Then put the two sides on top of each other and sand them to the same size.
Photo 26 - place the two beside each other and transfer the locations of the formers from the first side to the second side. By putting one above the other it automatically makes a left and right fuselage side.
Will be going back to work on the wing once it dries.
Frank
Frank, while I know you have just managed recently to be able to put the pictures in your post, is there any way you can make them bigger? I'm tired of getting out the magnifying glass to see what you are talking about.
I think, your build is looking good?
:-\
Careful Bruce,
You'll overload his cerebral CPU. 8)
Andy
Bruce:
re: " I'm tired of getting out the magnifying glass to see what you are talking about."
Skip the magnifying glass. Go straight for the white cane! ;D
Andy:
re:"You'll overload his cerebral CPU. 8)"
I have one of those??? ;)
Frank
Bruce,
Your own personal eye test:
1) print it out
2) place on wall at 20 feet
3) cover one eye and see if you can read it.
How is this photo?
Frank
Tsk, tsk...
More muddy grey...
Andy
Andy,
Now that was white. :)
Frank
Andy,
re:"Tsk, tsk... "
You set your standards waaayyyy too high. You are trying to compare my work to your work while you are trying to achieve the unreachable goal of a Pulitzer Prize photo.
Everything in life is relative. I compare myself to the woodpecker in the Flintstones' camera. I'm doing really well. ;D
Frank
I actually came very close to a Pulitzer with the photos below. The jury said I just needed to show more discretion in my choice of subject matter and I'd be a sure winner next time around. 8)
Your very good friend,
Andy
I am cured. You've done it Frank...
Your latest posted picture of my own personal eye chart can now be expanded to full screen (can now be easily seen) just by tapping on it, or really expanded by clicking on the expand button. I could easily see all the letters at 20 feet without the use of optical aids.
Frank, I hope you remember in the future how you did this. I trust everyone else can appreciate it too for the benefit of looking at Franks future posts.
Andy,
Nice photos... questionable subject matter.
After careful analysis, the CIA would conclude the following:
-Four photos prove I harvest model airplanes.... after years of careful planting ;D
-One proves I can bend over to tie my shoe laces.
-One proves I defend my territory against all interlopers....duel to the death or until the next coffee break, whichever comes first. Good thing you always carry a Thermos of coffee. ;)
Other than that, good framing and good colour balance.
Too bad Pulitzer doesn't stoop that low. ;)
Your buddy Frank
Today got back to the Chica build after the Christmas holiday:
Photo 27- shaping the leading edge- glued a 1/4" piece of balsa to the false leading edge to make it a proper thickness. Before planing it down, make sure you draw a line on the leading edge where you want the high point to be. This is so you can shave up to the line. As long as the line is in place, the leading edge will be straight.
photo 28- adding the cap strips on top of the exposed ribs. Glued and pinned in place.
Now back to the fuselage.
Frank
Back to the fuselage:
The photos have had the Weaver treatment ("Weaverized") so they can be seen without a magnifying glass or white cane. ;)
Photo 29- Two fuselage halves. Yes, Andy, I made a left and a right half. I used "squarish*" balsa on the bottom edge and large tri-stock on the top. Reason, I want to round off the fuse top and bottom after it is built.
Note the rubber band at the nose of the right fuse side. This square stock was a little wider and harder than the left side so it had to be coaxed into place to help the pins. The pins would have pulled sideways without the rubber band.
Also: I never cut a piece of wood like the tri stock to size until after the glue dries. In this case it was handy to leave them long to hold the rubber band. You may have noticed this in the wing construction as well. The spars, leading edge, trailing edge and wingtips were left long until the glue dried.
Photo 30 - The back end- glued and pinned.
Note the outline of the wing rib on the left fuse half (green dots). Have decided to cut out one rib hole, make it to fit the wing center section, then copy it onto the other fuse half by putting them back to back, then putting the balsa fuse doubler in place and cutting it out using the hole in the outside fuse.
For the removable wing, I will build the fuse in its entirety, then cutting through the fuse top to make the removable hatch.
Frank
* I called it "squarish" because it was from a SIG bundle of seconds.
Whatever Frank does in this and subsequent frames can be trimmed out on his radio!!! 8)
If he had used asparagus rubber bands the fuse would be straight and true the first time.
Andy
Andy,
re: "Whatever Frank does in this and subsequent frames can be trimmed out on his radio!!! 8)"
I have (need?) a very special radio. The trim levers cover 100% throw. ;D
Frank
Photo 31- making the formers: Made the two formers at the back end from balsa and not liteply* Lighter and easier to trim. The rest were made from liteply. I will make the notches for the top and bottom corners in place when they are fit to the fuse sides.
Photo 32- found a laser cut Speed 400 firewall. Will double it up but at least it has accurately cut vent holes and screw holes.
Note that this is an executive summary of 15 minutes of work. Bruce would have used 20 steps, with photo proof, starting with "Got up", "had breakfast", "pulled out the fuse plans", "laid wax paper over the plans" etc. You know these retired guys. Their motto is "if you can't be busy, at least look busy" ;)
Frank
* Bruce.... I still cannot follow instructions.
Fuse.... cont'd
Photo 33- opened the wing slot so it could slide in.... oops! made a mistake. Couldn't push it all the way through because....
Photo 34- the servo was in its way. Remember.... glued in place.
Photo 35- clamped to fuse halves together back to back in order to transfer the wing slot to the other fuse side
Photo 36- magic marker shows the cut line.
Photo 37- cut the longeron slot in the bottom of former 4, tri-stock angle cut into the top of the former.
Photo 38- 1/8" balsa doubler glued between the two formers at the front and back of the wing. Formers 3 & 4 are glued in place at 90 degrees to the fuse side. Note the angle of the top of former 4. This so that when if I crash, the wing can scissor and disconnect. If this Former were straight, the wing would not pop off..... in theory.
Notice two things in this photo: i) the doubler overlapped the wing slot. No need to waste time making it match. Can be cut out perfectly from the other side. ii) I have drilled holes in the bottom of each former just to get a start. I never open up formers until the fuse is finished. The hole is a start for my Dremel drum sander to open it up.
Next step- glue the two fuse halves together.
Quote from: Frank v B on December 31, 2017, 02:43:21 PM
Fuse.... cont'd
I never open up formers until the fuse is finished. The hole is a start for my Dremel drum sander to open it up.
Next step- glue the two fuse halves together.
I think I'm beginning to understand the sawdust collection in the back of Frank's van. 8)
Andy
Photo 39- The fuse is put together. I glued the sides together with only two formers in place... at the leading edge and trailing edge of the wing and let it cure (5 min epoxy). This is so that I can pull the nose and tail end together straight.
I pinned the fuse over a datum line (any straight line) on the board which was the original main spar line of the wing plan. The center of all formers were marked and the fuse was pinned over the datum line. The front and back were pulled together and pinned to the datum line.
Photo 40 Two areas were sheeted so that the fuse would stay straight and not rack* while it is going to be worked on for the wing hold-downs and radio/pushrod installation.
Note that the bottom sheeting is glued on with the grain cross-wise. The fuselage top will be with the grain running lengthwise.
Frank
* a structure like a cardboard box "racks" when opposite corners are pushed inward. The opposite sides stay parallel but the corners are not square.
It's now the New Year!! Time to power build.
Photo 41- Bottom sheeting in place. The front is left open so I can fiddle with the motor/firewall later on.
Photo 42- Bottom sheeting at the tail...post emergency call. I had just put glue on the fuse bottom and started all the sheeting from the front so it would start at the former. I quickly ran out for two hours*. Left a gap just to quickly pin the bottom in place. The small wedge piece was done after I returned.
Photo 43, 44,45- photos of the main hatch to cover the wing. Made a small former and pinned it in place. Marked the fuse in ink where the cut line is to be after the whole fuse is sanded. The white paper in between the front and back Former doublers is 4 layers of wax paper so errant glue will stay away from the gap.
The last photo clearly shows the back end of the hatch will be angled.
Frank
* a customer phoned me from Hawaii that his mother reported the heat was out at the house. There was ice in one of the toilet bowls! Our heating guy and I showed up within 45 minutes.
Quote from: Frank v B on January 01, 2018, 09:21:38 PM
...post emergency call. I quickly ran out for two hours*.
Frank
* a customer phoned me from Hawaii that his mother reported the heat was out at the house. There was ice in one of the toilet bowls! Our heating guy and I showed up within 45 minutes.
Hmm. I wonder if we have a similar problem in our Loo! Better call Graham... 8)
Andy
Andy,
re:"I wonder if we have a similar problem in our Loo!"
Ice fishing for a cell phone?
....now back to building. ;)
Frank
Photo 46- found a laser cut plywood Speed 400 firewall and doubled it up with lite ply so the glue has more bite.
Photo 47- glued one firewall on top of the other and then used the Dremel with a drill bit to duplicate hold-down screw holes and vent holes. Note: I decided to go with the Series 6 2700 kv. The snarlier higher KV motor had different mounting hole spacing. Yes, sanity set in... finally. ;D
Photo 48 screwed the motor to the firewall and wrapped waxed paper around the motor so errant glue doesn't grab it. Don't ask me how I know! :)
Photo 49- dropped the whole motor assembly onto the nose and clamped it. Let it dry with the fuse standing up vertically. The clamp is just to make sure the fuse sides are properly squeezed together.
Frank
Where is the seed dispenser?!! 8)
Andy
Andy
re: "Where is the seed dispenser?!! 8)"
You mean the balsa seed planting device. I used to plant balsa tree seeds but found it was waaayyy too slow.
I have perfected the technique of grafting balsa to ground cover (corn last year). A high speed dive fuses the balsa to the root structure and cuts the growth time in half. That's why I always refer to it as a "fuse". You may consider it a noun (fuselage), I consider it a verb (to fuse...).... actually a very active verb (to fuse at high speed..). 8)
Frank
You're right. You don't need a seed dispenser.
Your aircraft constitute the better way, as Refuse generators!
As always, I am in total awe!!
Andy
Photo 50- stab and fin/rudder. Angled the stab tips to match the wing tips.
Photo 51- wing ready for finish sanding, filling and aileron installation
Photo 52- Taped the spinner to protect it from the sanding block when rounding off the nose.
Photo 53- The look of the whole fuse. Rough sanding completed.
Photo 54- cut the fuse top to access the wing slot. Wing will be removable.
Photo 55- shows the wing bolt plate. Will be drilled and tapped.
Photo 56- did not like the gap between the spinner and the firewall. Inserted four pieces of 3/32" balsa around the motor vent holes and sanded it to match the nose contour.
Quote from: Frank v B on January 04, 2018, 11:18:32 PM
Photo 56- did not like the gap between the spinner and the firewall. Inserted four pieces of 3/32" balsa around the motor vent holes and sanded it to match the nose contour.
[/b]
Frank,
What do 'they say'? "Measure twice and cut once."
Quote from: bweaver on January 05, 2018, 09:05:09 AM
Quote from: Frank v B on January 04, 2018, 11:18:32 PM
Photo 56- did not like the gap between the spinner and the firewall. Inserted four pieces of 3/32" balsa around the motor vent holes and sanded it to match the nose contour.
[/b]
Frank,
What do 'they say'? "Measure twice and cut once."
I believe
@Frank v B opts for the speed build technique: cut now, (skip the measurements), cut some more, sand furiously, trim the rest in flight! 8)
And why get so precise about what you're going to plant anyways?!!
Andy
Bruce:
re: "Measure twice and cut once.". Measure?.... what is that? 8)
Andy,
re: "cut now, (skip the measurements), cut some more, sand furiously, trim the rest in flight! 8)"
Precisely. Action vs perfection! Oh, BTW, I hate perfectionists. They only hide behind the mask of "perfection" because they can't make a damn decision and never want to, or can, finish anything. :P
If you guys had any more building experience than you have ( ;)), you will have learned that spinners come in two types. One with a recessed back plate which would have covered the gap, and one with a flat back plate.... which was the only one of this size I could find in my collection of useless airplane parts.
... at least you read my post! Mission accomplished.
Frank
Oh, Bruce, where were you yesterday when BJ and I showed up for the Morning Crew lunch?? Are you that afraid of us that you couldn't make it. We don't bite. The Morning Crew were perfectly gracious hosts. ;D
RE - "Oh, Bruce, where were you yesterday when BJ and I showed up for the Morning Crew lunch?? Are you that afraid of us that you couldn't make it. We don't bite. The Morning Crew were perfectly gracious hosts."
Frank, obviously you do not read as you have repeatedly told me and others many times. However as I have said, I believe it just a matter of your comprehension. (Yes Frank, if you notice I used the words 'repeatedly' and 'many times' in the earlier sentence for your benefit.)
Also for you further benefit FRANK, I will repeat the reason for failing to attend the morning crew lunch on Thursday. Katie has the flu, so I did not want to bring the bug with me to infect my friends. (Frank the underlining is for you - to emphasize what you failed to comprehend.) If I had been less considerate and a less "perfectly gracious host", (please note I coordinate with others the morning crew lunches) I would have attended the Thursday lunch. Further, knowing now that you finally graced our table on Thursday, I would have sat beside you and shared your cutlery.
PS - Since Thursday I have only had to call Bulla a few times myself last night. I am feeling a bit better now..., thanks for asking.
Everyone please remember this is the Flu Season. As Katie now says, "wash your hands and fist pumps only for the time being".
Wow! This is like watching a manure spreader in the spring! I'll bet the airplanes will really grow well next season! 8)
Andy
Hey Andy,
re: "Wow! This is like watching a manure spreader in the spring!"
Do you have any experience putting manure back onto the spreader cart? I am a city guy.
How about putting brown genies back in a bottle?
Do you think I woke Bruce up from a very deep sleep or rescued him from the great white telephone or something like that? ;)
Bruce will be fine after some Mexican sun, a Warwing build class and a spring flying session. For me, two out of three would suffice.
Frank
By the way your Chica is coming along nicely.
:o Oh got to go back to the bathroom.... :-[
Back to building. The final touches before the final sanding.
Photo 57- adding the tips to the solid stab and elevator. These tips are to make sure the stab does not warp along the grain. They are wider and longer than they are supposed to be. Will trim them to the proper size (length and width) once they dry. Note that the elevator has not be separated from the stab yet. This way the whole thing can be final sanded so everything matches perfectly. The last step is to separate the elevator from the stab, angle sand one part. Plan to use SolarFilm hinges.
Photo 58- Installing the battery hatch magnets. I mixed micro balloons in with the 5 minute epoxy, put wax paper between the hatch and the fuse, gooped on the micro balloons, installed the hatch with wax paper between the two magnets and turned the fuselage upside down to dry. The stuff dried as you see it here, neatly embedding the magnet. Put a little piece of carbon veil on the inside of each magnet to help support and strengthen it. (barely visible). Note: I did not install the battery hatch in the bottom per the plans. I find it is easier on the top.
Photo 59 - the wing bolts were tapped into the hold-down block and the magnets were installed on the back of the hatch which covers the top of the wing. Added the balsa afterwards because the cut was not straight. It filled the space between the fuse and the hatch.
Photo 60- wing tips were added and ailerons installed (hinged with CA hinges). Hinges will not be glued in until after covering. The photo is of the bottom of the wing. The angled aileron gap shows.
Hey Bruce- notice the white TV remote control below the wing in photo 60 you so kindly donated to a good home a year ago. Works fine. :)
Spackling (a.k.a. filler) has been added to the open joints and gaps so it can cure overnight.
The dust devil will strike tomorrow. Sanding, sanding and more sanding. :D
Final details:
Photo 61- Capping the tail piece. Just glued a random piece of balsa across the tail end of the fuse because it is full of glue joints (fuse sides, top bottom, 4 corner balsa strips and tri-stock).
Photo 62- tail piece sanded to shape. Note: I have not cut through the stab slot because this keeps the spacing even during the covering process. Otherwise it squeezes the gap closed when the covering is shrunk. It is cut through once it is covered.
Photo 63- All the pieces sanded with final details. Note i) the slot in the fuse top for the fin/rudder. It was cut with an Exacto knife and then accurately squared off with a slot screw driver. Run it twice along the bottom of the slot and it will be completely square. Magic!. ii) The small hole cut into the bottom of the wing sheeting to extract the aileron servo wires. I ran a bead of 5 minute epoxy around the hole to stop it from splitting along the grain iii) The wing dowels are loose. I ran them through a pencil sharpener to make them pointy. The dowels are glued in place after covering. iv) the elevator servo installed. I glued it in place. Note: test and center the servo before installation. The first one did not work! I glued the servo in place. v) The stab has been trimmed to size. Have not cut the elevator yet.
Photo 64- Close-up of the servo. The green tape on the hatch is a temporary handle to open and close it. I make a small tab with the covering to make the permanent handle. I cut vent/cooling holes in after covering and use Wendy's spoons to make the vents.
The little piece of balsa stuck cross-wise in the fuse side above the servo is to fill an accidental groove from the sanding process. (Oops)
Ready to bring to the build class!!!!!!
Frank
Speaking of your photo quality again. 61 through 64 are so small now I can't even find them in order to try and enlarge them. :P
Bruce:
Just re-Weavered (re-Weaverized?) the photos. How's that?
Frank
They look great Frank.
It's nice to see how well you respond to positive reinforcement!! (I like that Weaver guy.) 8)
Andy
Back to this build again today. Just finished the Corsair. Now comes the covering job on the Chica.
Problem- the wing saddle was bigger than the wing. Remember I wanted to make the wing removable. The plan showed a fixed wing. For some unknown reason the root shape came out different from the plan.
Had to fill the gap between the wing and the fuselage. Normally I would build it up and sand it to shape until the wing fit. This time I did the reverse.
1)- put waxed paper around the wing
2)- cut 1/16" balsa cross-grain to fill the gap. Put carpenters glue on it and slipped the balsa strip between the fuselage and the waxed paper on the wing.
3) stuck toothpicks in the gap to bring the balsa filler up tightly up to the wing's waxed paper and let it dry.
4) cut the toothpicks off, filled the gaps with a light filler, let it dry and sanded it. The wing now sits perfectly in the saddle.
Photo 1- shows the toothpicks pushing the balsa up against the waxed paper on the wing
Photo 2- shows the filler sanded off. Ready for the final sanding of the fuselage.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 13, 2018, 10:24:09 PM
Back to this build again today. Just finished the Corsair. Now comes the covering job on the Chica.
Problem- the wing saddle was bigger than the wing. Remember I wanted to make the wing removable. The plan showed a fixed wing. For some unknown reason the root shape came out different from the plan.
Had to fill the gap between the wing and the fuselage. Normally I would build it up and sand it to shape until the wing fit. This time I did the reverse.
1)- put waxed paper around the wing
2)- cut 1/16" balsa cross-grain to fill the gap. Put carpenters glue on it and slipped the balsa strip between the fuselage and the waxed paper on the wing.
3) stuck toothpicks in the gap to bring the balsa filler up tightly up to the wing's waxed paper and let it dry.
4) cut the toothpicks off, filled the gaps with a light filler, let it dry and sanded it. The wing now sits perfectly in the saddle.
Photo 1- shows the toothpicks pushing the balsa up against the waxed paper on the wing
Photo 2- shows the filler sanded off. Ready for the final sanding of the fuselage.
Frank
I will provide more in-depth photo coverage of
@Frank v B's toothpicks after he does one of his flying master classes! 8)
Andy
Now that the plane is covered and assembled as outlined in the covering thread
http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6499.0.html
let's go back to the final details.
- connected the elevator pushrod/servo
- installed and bound the radio
- installed the ESC and battery with Velcro
- connected the ailerons via wire pushrods.
The photos below show the steps in making a "Z" bend in piano wire.
Step 1-bend 90 degrees where you need the bend to start. Photo 1439
step 2- Put the pliers across the 90 degree bend as in photo 1440. Push the left end down. See photo 1441
step 3- place the pliers on the tip as in photo 1442 and twist the point 90 degrees in line with the rest of the pushrod (counter clockwise in this photo).
Final "Z" bend photo 1443
Frank
Lastly, a provision for airflow over the battery and ESC. The scoop in the battery hatch was made from a plastic spoon.
step 1- cut off the tip of a plastic spoon- outline shown in photo 1435
step 2- place the spoon tip on the hatch and mark the outline with a pen
step 3- cut a slot on an angle with an #11 blade
step 4- cut out a hole in the hatch. I used a knife. Can use a Dremel with a drum sander.
step 5- glue the spoon tip in place.... yep, with 5 minute epoxy.
step 6- painted the balsa edge with white paint. Photo 1438
The last photo (1437) shows the hatch on the plane.
Finished!!!!!
Stats:
weight 28.4 oz
3 cell 2200 mah, 40 Amp ESC
300 watts
motor E-Flite Series 6 28 mm inrunner 2700 KV (34 amp max, 375 watts continuous)
5x5 APC prop.
Frank
Finished plane- viewed from the top
Frank
OK, Which is it?
:P
Quote from: bweaver on February 21, 2018, 11:27:30 PM
OK, Which is it?
:P
Oooooo! SO succinct! 8)
(But it is beautiful !! PLEASE let me photograph it -
before you fly it!)
Andy
Mr. Weaver, I cannot answer the question until I fly it. I need something to blame a crash on. If it flies fine, it is the one on the left. If it crashes it is the Weaverized version of the plane.
Yes Andy, I will let you photograph it before and after the first flight, however long or short it may be.
Rob D's Chica flew so he can coach me on what to do.
The Morning Crew had lunch today despite being Weaverless. Bruce, I am concerned you may be down a pint.
Frank
Frank, please don't worry. I am never down a pint, even after giving a pint... :-*
Bruce,
re: "I am never down a pint, even after giving a pint"
I'm not concerned about medical issues like giving a pint. You have a resident nurse to monitor that. I was concerned about you being a pint behind in the beer count. ;D
Frank