This is a highly maneuverable low wing airplane originally designed for an .049 IC motor. This is an electric conversion.
The fuse is slab sided, no formers I am retaining the rubber band wing because it is the simplest way of attaching it and most forgiving when hitting the dirt.
Photo 41- cutting out the wing ribs- 14 of them out of 1/8" balsa
Photo 42- fuse parts cut out- 1/4" top, 1/8" sides, 1/8" bottom behind the trailing edge, 1/4" bottom between the motor and leading edge of the wing.
Photo 44- gluing the fuse sides and bottom in place.
Photo 45- gluing the bottom forward section. Wrong!! I glued it on top. Had to cut it off and glue it between the sides.
Total parts cutting time- a one hour TV show.
Total fuse building time- 1 hour.
Frank
Queue the wing.
Photo 46- stack all the ribs together and sand them together so they are even. Note the magic marker. I always mark the top of the ribs at the spar with a magic marker so I know which side is up. This is to guarantee that all ribs are oriented the same way. They may have started off as a symmetrical rib but the sanding may change the shape. This way all ribs are the same. The 4 ribs are for the centre section. The rest are standard ribs.
Photo 47- pin the main spar to the plan. I always put pins in the end, then line up a steel ruler beside it. note the bow in the spar. Then you push the ruler up to the pins and straighten the spar, then inset the pins between the ribs. You have to start straight to finish straight.
Photo 48- ribs in place. Glued onto the trailing edge and the lower main spar. The leading edge balsa has rubber bands on it to hold it in place while the glue dries.
Photo 49- leading edge in place. The rubber bands have been stretched and pinned to hold it in place while the glue dried.
Photo 50- the first wing is angled up and the second wing is started on the board. The dihedral brace will be installed later.
Frank
Da wing cont'd,
Photo 51- clamp used as a dihedral brace to give 4.5" dihedral (one-tip measurement)
Photo 53- brace on the wingtip- I leave the triangles big because it is faster to cut them down after the glue dries than analy cutting and fitting them before gluing.
Photo 59- the balsa is used to make a template of the rib angles. It is easier to sand and fit balsa than solid pine. The angles are then drawn on the brace.
Photo 60- the fully cut slot in the center ribs for the dihedral brace.
Photo 61- Slipping the cut dihedral brace into the slot so the bottom angle can be marked. I used Home Depot clear pine (1x2 or 1x3). Nothing fancy.
Photo 62- bottom angle marked with a pencil.
Photo 63- the finished (shaped) dihedral brace before installation.
Photo 64- balsa sheeting over top of the brace.
Photo 65- Plywood motor mount installed. Rubber banded to hold the firewall while the glue dries.
Frank
TADA!!!!
Motor installed, wheels on final fitting before final sanding and covering.
Frank
Covering completed.
Nice you make it look so easy
I like it, put me on the list to build one
Is there a list? Let's have a list
Great build Frank. This should be all sorts of fun to fly. Can I get a copy of the plans from you?
Thanks BJ and Rob. There will be a list and I do have the plans but I will make templates for all the parts (easier for the builder)
Gotta finish: making the pushrods. Made them out of left-over metal bits and screwy bits (clevises). I prefer to not make them out of one piece of piano wire because they flex. In the old days wire pushrods caused radio interference so wood was used as an insulator.
Caution- do not use screw-in clevises on both end of one pushrod. It will twist and unscrew until one end falls off. Don't ask me how I know. ;)
The stick was from a dollar store. To make the pushrod I put a 90 degree bend in one end, drilled a hole in the wood dowel about 2" from one end, inserted the metal and wound it with dental floss and glue. I rounded the wood dowel below the metal piece so it does not catch on anything and stop servo movement. Again, please don't ask me how I know. ;D
Photo 74- the pieces of the pushrod.
Photo 75- The dental floss holding the piano wire onto the dowel. The knife tip points to the rounded end of the dowel below the metal end.
Photo 76- finished pushrod.
Frank
The finished plane. The big reveal.
Photo 77- the finished plane. Ready to fly. I will mess around with the cockpit to add character.
Photo 79- close-up of the motor and nose wheel steering.
Photo 80- Looking up the butt. The elevator linkage is hidden inside the fuse.
Photo 81- the tail end details
Photo 82- the battery hatch closed
Photo 83- the battery hatch open.
Done!!!
Frank
Here are the stats:
weight- 19.2 oz with a 1300 mah 3 cell battery
power - 130 watts per pound
Time to build (rough- it was not a race!)
- Cut out the parts and sand 2 hours (2 episodes of "The Closer")
- each wing half 1 hour (2 hours total)
- joining the wing, making the block- 1 hour
- landing gear and motor installation- 1 hour
- covering 3 hours
- radio installation (servos) 1 hour
- covering- 4 hours
- final assembly (pushrods, re-install motor and landing gear, dowels for wing rubber bands, hatch hold-down) 2 hours
ps: most sport planes (40 size like The Norseman) take 40-60 hours
Looks great Frank. 40 to 60 hours. I think that is really optimistic for something like the Norseman. For me I think I would double that time!
I promised to "mess around with the cockpit".
In honour of Bruce's crashed PT 19 (see his earlier post http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6455.0.html).
That's Bruce in the rear cockpit. I am in the front cockpit. Bruce is giving me my flight test. ;D ;D Two blind mice.
The windshields are courtesy of the Coca Cola Company.
Frank
Wow Frank
I can't believe the resemblance of you and Bruce
Still the plane looks great.
The plane looks like great for first into balsa scratch build
Can't wait to get into it and learn and get my hands dirty
Even better flying formation with friends
Quote from: Frank v B on February 16, 2020, 04:10:58 PM
I promised to "mess around with the cockpit".
In honour of Bruce's crashed PT 19 (see his earlier post http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6455.0.html).
That's Bruce in the rear cockpit. I am in the front cockpit. Bruce is giving me my flight test. ;D ;D Two blind mice.
The windshields are courtesy of the Coca Cola Company.
Frank
I'm the handsome one. (I'm back! ;D)
Bruce:
re: "I'm the handsome one." Of course you are!
re: (I'm back! ;D) Great! I was starting to get worried that no-one was keeping me honest. ;)
Frank
I was impressed with Frank's Fun Stick build so I decided to build one myself. Found 1/3rd size plans on the internet and had them enlarged at a printing place. Frank is right in that it is a quick build and should be a good choice for the build class next fall, along with, or either than, the small flying boat that Michael is building to evaluate. I decided to give the tail feathers the classic Ugly Stick rounded tail and scalloped trailing edge on the elevator. I tried a canopy I had kicking around, but it did not look right with the classic tail, so my pilot will be open to the wind with scarf blowing behind. Tomorrow the firewall will be constructed and installed, the motor and servos installed and the battery hatch figured out, and with luck the landing gear added.
Boy, you guys build fast. I'd still be reading the instructions and figuring out where to get pins. By the way... where do you get pins?
Some more fun with the cockpit. I know the pilot. ;D ;D
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 22, 2020, 09:14:47 PM
Some more fun with the cockpit. I know the pilot. ;D ;D
Frank
I was so sure it was going to be "Rescue" and "Don't Rescue"... or "Rescue!" and "Rescue?"
My "Franks Joy Stick" (OK that sounds weird) is nearing completion. Just need to finish the covering and add insignias and it should be done.
So I have now finished the Joy Stick. One of the nice things about this design is that it allows one to kind of come up with whatever they like. I decided to go classic in that the original stick by Phil Kraft had an Albatross (ish) tail and a red German WW1 appearance. I have always liked that. So I made the tail round and put the battery hatch on the top of the fuse (Frank put his on the bottom, either works).This was a fun build and rewarding as the building goes quickly (I built the wing between periods of a Leaf game). I like Michael's sea plane for the build class, but honestly, both it and the Fun Stick go together so quickly, and so inexpensively, that anyone could build both in the time between the 8 weeks of not winter we have here in southern Ontario. I am really excited to try this little guy.
Nice covering!
Rob,
It's a riot!
Nice job.
Frank
Final photos of my Joy Stick. Ready for the first flight.
Frank
ps: Note the Canadian Air Force roundel on the wing. A tribute to my son Tom who is still with Canada's NATO commitment in Kuwait. He is a Captain the Canadian Air Force on the air base 30 km south of the Iraq border. He has been there since October and is set to return to civilization (Winnipeg, 17 Wing) in April.
So pretty. That'll look great in the air.
Winnipeg... civilization... ???
I'm glad he's coming home.
David,
re your "Winnipeg... civilization... ???"
Everything in life is relative. Winnipeg or Kuwait. I know what I would pick. Besides, Winnipeg is full of really nice people*.
Frank
*That's why Andy had to leave. ;D ;D Yes, Andy Hoffer used to live there.
I have had trouble bringing myself to commenting much on a post that refers to Frank's
'Joy Stick'.
Further, at this point I can't bring myself to judging
@Frank v B 's or
@octagon 's 'Joy Sticks'. It would be inappropriate to comment on how they measure up. :-X
Bruce,
re: "I have had trouble bringing myself to commenting much on a post that..."
Your restraint was noticed by the absence of "Weaverisms" on all posts.
I figured you were just warming up.
Frank
Actually Bruce, although they are the same size, mine is bright red, but Frank's is blue and yellow.
Bruce,
re: "Tiny heads much? "
We have no egos. That takes up most of people's "headroom". ;)
Frank
Maidened the plane today and it flew great despite the gusty conditions.
Changes:
- the plans showed right thrust because it was designed to be powered by a screaming Tee Dee .051 Nitro motor. I kept in some right thrust when I built it. It should now be zero. Will add two washers behind the mounting screws on the starboard (right) side.
- changed the prop from an 8x4.7 to a 9x6 and the draw went up from 9 to 15 amps, a 66% increase.
- needs more throw on both rudder* and elevator. I started off with mild throws just to fly it conservatively.
My conclusion: a terrific little plane made from left-over parts.
Frank
* this is a 3 channel plane. No ailerons. Rudder and elevator only.
Frank VB has asked me to post about my experience with the proposed winter build for next year (one of them anyway). The actual build was very strait forward and very affordable.. If this design is adopted as one of the build projects, either Frank and I will make rib kits available or I have a rib template that makes it easy to make your own. The motor I used is equivalent to a Park 370. The one I used was called a Suppo BL2298/17 and is rated at 1300 kv. I used an 18 amp ESC and a 9/6 prop. For anyone interested, here is a link to the perfomance http://www.flybrushless.com/motor/view/134.
The build is quick and strait forward and fun. I built the right wing in a hockey intermission and the left wing after the game and then joined them that night. The fuse is just a simple box design
So yesterday was time to maiden it. It was a bit apprehensive as it was a bit windy and gusty but pretty much down the runway from the north. I asked Frank what he thought, and he said he was absolutely going to try it, but to remember who I was asking if he thought it was ok. Anyway, taxied it out taxied down the runway and of it went. No trim whatsoever was needed (a first for a Dickinson built plane). I did use 2 washers under the left mount lug and one under the right to give the plane a bit of down thrust as well as right.
The plane handled the wind well and flew comfortably with just 1/2 throttle. Surprisingly to me, the rudder elevator only worked better than I had expected. The little thing loops and will do a nice stall turn. It is gentle to land and honestly I had a hoot with it. I would say total building time, including covering was probably something in the neighbourhood of 20 hours. I had the motor and ESC but the motor is online for about $15 and the speed control probably less than 20. Ad the prop, wheels and wood and covering and I think you would have one in the air for about $70.00. Perhaps one of the neatest things about this is that this plane is very similar to a plane I build when I was in grade 10. One of my shop teachers was a model plane enthusiast and gave me plans for it. I cannot remember now, but if it was not a smaller version of this plane it was very similar. That plane never flew as I could never afford a radio for it. So this one has taken that ones place in my mind anyway.
Awesome. I think I am going to try this. But with Sophia's input. It might have a frozen 2 flair to it.