24.5" e-tugboat model- Bare bones, no photos, no plans, no parts, no instructions

Started by Frank v B, November 29, 2025, 09:01:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Crash

Amazing work on that boat, I need more knowledge on the boats. You have a real knack for building...anything that flies or floats!

Andy Hoffer

For anyone who wants to see @Frank v B 's building flaws I can loan you my microscope!  Have to admire his killer devotion to perfection, the antithesis of my painter's tape repairs!!😂😂

Andy

Frank v B

Thank you Mike B. and Andy.  Andy, are you OK? That sounded like a compliment.

ARGHHHHH

Sanded the Tremclad on the hull to smooth it out.  About 50% of the imperfections disappeared.  It reduced many of the low spots (shows up as shiny grey stripes- photo 40).  Decided to paint another coat because it takes about 3 days to cure so I can get back to it after the holidays.

Within 30 minutes it started to react and cratered the surface. (Photo 41- red arrow). No choice but to let it dry/cure and re-sand it.  No idea why it reacted the way it did.  No problem on the first coat.

Executive summary- one step forward, two steps back.  Arghhhh.

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

PG54

Frank - I have had the same ugly result when spraying a second or third coat on an epoxied surface. My experience with problems with epoxy on pool surface usually comes down to poor adhesion of the under lying coats. The solvents in the newest coat attack the underlying coat - causing orange peel or blisters.
This can be traced back to
1. Underlying coat applied to
an improperly prepared surface
2. Underlying coat had not cured properly due to temperature or improper paint mix
3. The surface of the underlying coat had areas of dampness or pits that were contaminated
4. The underlying coat was exhausted - too old to be recoated
Even knowing all the potential
problems and taking the best measures sh*t still happens!

Frank v B

Thank you Paul.  Great Advice.

I let it dry 3 days but my shop is cold.  Guy said the Tremclad on his big sailboat took 5 days to cure because his shop was cold..... so I will give the next coat 5 days to cure.  Conclusion: Guy lives in an igloo as well.

I had sanded it thoroughly and cleaned it off before re-coating but I think I will clean it with alcohol and then leave it overnight before the next coat.  Still have enough paint for 20 coats. ;D

If I keep messing up and re-coating it the finish should be mirror-like but weigh less than a ton. 8)

Frank

"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

Finally found it! Close enough.
https://www.vintagemodelplans.com/collections/tug-and-fishing-boat-plans/products/full-size-printed-plan-semi-scale-1-16-norwegian-trawler-for-two-channel-radio-control

Was sent a link by Paul of small electric boat plans.  Found a Norwegian trawler model that fits the bill.  This will give me the size of the masts and their location.  Also the size and location of the smoke stack.  The wheel house is 100% on the design.

Frank
"Never trade luck for skill"

Frank v B

Combining Paul's advice and a professional detail painter* -the paint prescription is:
- wait for at least 5 days and let the current paint cure.
- sand the craters and make the hull smooth
- spray paint about 3 coats of gray paint- 3 very light coatings done outside with about  3-4 minutes between coats.
- brush paint the final coat immediately.  Guess what- it needs to be warm outside!!

While it is curing:
- made the two masts.
- added painted life rings, black engine exhaust pipe, port and starboard running lights.
- drill the two mast positions and glue in the mast steps.  I opted to use telescoping brass tubing so the masts are removable.  The mast steps extend about an inch above the deck.
- made up a windlass from left-over pieces of a donated kit.
- varnished the cabin top and hatch cover (final coats)

Starting to look like a boat.


Frank

* my daughter repairs damaged high end carbon racing bikes and spray paints the repairs to an exact match.  The bikes she repairs are worth $10,000-$15,000.
"Never trade luck for skill"

piker

Hey Frank!

That's looking Awesome!  Nice work as always.

But I was reading your first post, on the subject again, and saw that you're working to the 50:50 rule.  First, I'm not sure anyone will have to stand 50 feet away to appreciate this beauty, but second, I'm a little concerned about the second part of the rule... 50 MPH?!!!!!  What are you going to power this boat with?!!

Robert

msatin

You never fail until you stop trying

Frank v B

Thanks Rob* and Mark.

finished model- except for the hull painting.  Will choose a bright colour but cannot do it until it is warmer outside (spray paint).
Will add the steadying sail on the stern.

The final touches:
- hatches to cover up the outlines printed on the deck.  Note the cover in the stern.  It covers the rudder tiller and servo connection.  Installed it with one magnet so it can move if it has to.  Otherwise it would be too big.... and too fiddly.
- masts and booms installed as well as rigging.
- found brass stanchions to make the railing on the second floor deck. Used thin piano wire to make the lifelines.

Frank

*50/50 for a boat is at 50 foot distance and 50' per minute.
"Never trade luck for skill"

piker

Very nice, Frank!

And a fast build too!

I hope to get out to the pond this summer to see her go!

Robert