Honker Bipe

[GuyOReilly]

The plans for the Honker Bipe were in my "collection" since 1989.
Needless to say that this build was long overdue.
The plans were yellowed with the passage of time (see picture 172), but workable as everything is square, with rounded corners.
The accompanying pictures were taken along the build should be in order and are self explanatory.
Cabane struts were cut first out of plywood and sandwiched with fibreglass - quite strong (see pictures 164 and 167).
Most of the material was already in my scrap heap (see #169 and 171).
This represents approximately one and half week of part-time, evening work/play-time.

[GuyOReilly]

Here is a picture of the tail section.
The hinges are stitched with fishing wire and then a drop of CA fixes it in place.
The tail wheel is glued to the rudder, again with added stitching for strength.

[msatin]

Look Great Guy!
Out of curiosity - Are you doing the hinges in stitches for nostalgia, or another reason?

[GuyOReilly]

Hello Mark ;
Stitched hinges were selected as the balsa for the elevator and rudder is only 1/8 inch thick.
The same method will be used for the ailerons.
Stitching is very durable and solid; a drop of CA in each hole adds strength by penetrating into the balsa.
Furthermore, there is no alignment issue because each stitch passes between the fixed and moving surfaces (e.g.: between the elevator and the stab) in a figure "8" pattern.
Nostalgia may have something to do with it, but that is another story.  I used it a long time ago for control line models covered with tissue and dope. Ah... the good old days...

[msatin]

Very interesting Guy - Thanks for explanation.
I have to say it does look very cool!
Again just out of curiosity 
Would a tape hinge using blenderm also work, or do you think it wouldn't be strong enough?
 

[GuyOReilly]

@msatin the original instructions called for Monokote hinges.
Surely the tape idea would work, but...

1- make sure the tape does not split lengthwise.
2- ensure that when applying the tape, there is no gap as this could result in the control surface being pushed up or down at its leading edge.
3- apply tape on both top and bottom.
4- tape work best is the edges are sharp - not rounded.  For example, vertical trailing edge of the stab and a 45 degrees added to to leading edge of the elevator.

Easier to make or show than to try and write it down. 

[msatin]

Thanks Guy.
I've made several hinges (and repaired foamies whose hinges have torn) with blenderm, and you're right about about the care needed to make them work well.
Like I said, I just curious about the pros and cons one method over the other.

[GuyOReilly]

Some progress on the Honker Bipe.
Fuselage covered, tail epoxied in place.
@Andy Hoffer; to answer your question: yes, the tail weight will be removed prior to the first flight.
Next cover the wings and ailerons.

[GuyOReilly]

Honker Bipe ready for Maiden Flight!
Although I might replace the windscreen as CA fogged it up and some stripe on the top wing for visibility.
All done, only needs a battery and a receiver.
Looking forward to some clement weather for the fright... er... flight.

[GuyOReilly]

Some form of pattern should be used for visibility on the top of the top wing at least.
In my collection of unused material from other projects, I came across roundels and checkered pattern as well as big black crosses from the Coverite Fokker.
What would you think should be used against a yellow-covered wing?
Any suggestion welcomed.

[msatin]

I vote for Roundels.
She looks terrific Guy!

[GuyOReilly]

Votes have been tabulated and the winner is: ROUNDELS!!!
With some checkered stripes on the wing tips.
Thank you Mark.
The eagle-eyed observers amongst you will note that I also added a head rest behind the pilot.
Spring; where art though?!? 
 

[piker]

Nice little Bipe, Guy!

I look forward to seeing it at the field, when the weather turns to warmer temps.

Robert

[Michael]

Looks like fun!

[GuyOReilly]

For the inquiring minds: RTF weight is 2 pounds 14 ounces or 1.29kg.