OK, so I'm gonna log my winter build here. It feels like time for me to try a WWI warbird, and even though the BUSA Eindecker is far from scale it's nice looking and reputed to fly well.
(http://images.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/18912/Sn40603.jpg)
Along with the kit I acquired scale wheels, a Spandau machine gun kit, and Iron Cross decals. I am also looking for a pilot (hopefully no spiked helmet) and dummy engine. I plan to finish it with beige Coverite in the classic scheme, with rigging wires.
This will take time – my builds tend to sidetracked. Getting there is half the fun!
Electric conversion will be challenging. The kit has a very short nose moment and lots of lumber behind the CG, so getting it to balance without adding church roof looks difficult. My strategies for dealing with this will include:
• Replace 3/16" slab fuselage sides with Warren truss construction, starting at the rear of the wing saddle
• Change sheet tail feathers to all-stick construction
• Go heavy on the power system – looking for suggestions...
• Place batteries as far forward as possible -- likely underneath the cowl
I see this as an opportunity to learn some new building techniques and hope you guys will chime in at appropriate points... like when I mess up.
Gordon
I have been building that kit since last November. I have a Turnigy 4260 500 for it and plan on using a 4S or 6S A123 pack. Haven't done anything to lighten it.....yet.
However, I am not happy with the kit. Part of the reason for the long build is there are a number of issues. The latest is the ribs are 1/16" shorter (height wise) than they need to be so the upper spar stands proud. I ended up caping the ribs. If you don't have the kit yet I have alternatives, especially as you intend major changes anyways. Mine is going to be a Pflaz E.I and I am building it for Ben.
Stephen
Thanks for the heads-up, Stephen. I already have the kit so will muddle through somehow. What other issues did you experience ... and where are you placing the batts?
Mostly part fit. Many times I had to sand or trim to fit as needed/intended. Present plan is for batteries immediately behind firewall. Electronics to go above or just behind. Also have opinions on covering.
Stephen
This is also one of the kits that I had on the plate. But I am side tracked with a 1/4 DR-1 and a N28C.
I think the G46 Turnigy is also good for the model (40 size?). I have that in my Bristol M1C and on 5S it's perfect.
Looks like we'll have a quorum for a WWI funfly next year!
Stephen... please share your views on coverings...
Great to see you have another cool plane on the building board, Gordon. I look forward to seeing it flying next year.
Robert
Rob. Get working on your se5a. I am done the mid wing now. Starting on the top wing.
I'm giving you a false sense of a lead. I can have both wings built, covered, test flown and sold on E-Bay before you finish that top wing :P
But I AM torm... I have the SE5a on the board, calling my name, my CL-215 70% recovered caling my name, and a desire to work on my next flying boat build, the Supermarine Seagull. It's so hard to stay forcussed!!!!
But thanks for the reminder to move my ass.... ;D
Robert
Which Seagull? 1948 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supermarine_Seagull_(1948) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supermarine_Seagull_(1948)) or 1921 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supermarine_Seagull_(1921) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supermarine_Seagull_(1921)) ?
The later one (1948). I have plans from Electric Flight International. It's around 60" span. Cool plane, eh?
Robert
SE5a!
I am building Verner Voss's DR-1.
Here is a good recap of why I am building the DR-1 and your SE5a would be very fitting...
A lone silver Dreidecker stalked the evening sky. Below him, a flight of unsuspecting British fighters supporting a reconnaissance mission. Patiently he waited for just the right moment. As the mission wore on, two British SE5a's became separated. The pilot was just two kills short of his fiftieth victory. Few pilots would consider tackling two enemy aircraft alone but Werner Voss was no ordinary pilot. He liked the odds. Like a hungry leopard his Dreidecker pounced on his would be prey with deadly precision, forcing the two British SE5s to the ground.
Suddenly and without warning, the predator became the prey as seven SE5a's Dropped down upon the unsuspecting ace from nowhere. Hopelessly outnumbered it seemed like the only choices were to turn and run or fight to the bitter end.
As McCudden put it:
"We were just on the point of engaging six Albatros Scouts away to our right, when we saw ahead of us, Just above Poelcapelle, an S.E. half spinning down closely pursued by a silvery blue triplane at very closed range. The S.E. certainly looked very unhappy, so we changed our minds about attacking the six V-strutters, and went to the rescue of the unfortunate S.E".
For whatever reason Voss chose to fight. Perhaps he was unaware of the odds. Perhaps the enemy had him so well surrounded that he was unable to put the superior climbing ability of the Fokker Dreidecker to use. For what ever reason he chose to fight and he couldn't have picked a more dangerous group to fight. His opponents were not just any British pilots. This was B Flight of 56 Squadron. All seven of the pilots were aces. For the next ten minutes Voss would fly circles around his adversaries as he emptied his Spandaus and managed to pepper every enemy plane with bullet holes. In the meantime his enemy tried in vain to bring down this most noble opponent but the silver-blue triplane was simply too agile and Voss too talented a flyer for the British.
Suddenly Voss's airplane went into a shallow dive, it's propeller no longer turning. No one knows for sure why. The dreidecker had been flying for almost 90 minutes, the limit of its fuel endurance, so Voss may have run out of fuel. Or perhaps the fuel tank had been punctured and Voss was forced to shut off the engine to prevent the plane from catching fire. Perhaps, after ten minutes of fighting Voss had run out of ammunition and was attempting to surrender. Or maybe Voss had been wounded and could no longer control the plane and was attempting to surrender. No one knows for sure.
As the Dreidecker banked into the shallow turn, Voss made the fatal error of crossing the path of Arthur Rhys Davids.
"Eventually I got east and slightly above the triplane and made for it, getting in a whole Lewis drum and a corresponding number of Vickers into him. He made no attempt to turn, until I was so close to him I was certain we would collide. He passed my right-hand wing by inches and went down."
Voss's Dreidecker then went into steep uncontrolled dive which Flight Leader James McCudden described as:
"I shall never forget my admiration for that German pilot, who single handed, fought seven of us for ten minutes . . . I saw him go into a fairly steep dive and so I continued to watch, and then saw the triplane hit the ground and disappear into a thousand fragments, for it seemed to me that it literally went into powder."
The dogfight would become one of the best known aerial battles of World War I. It would also end the streak of the Red Baron's closest rivals. Voss's plane crashed in No Man's Land, The battle still raging in the area. Unlike Von Richthofen, he would receive no funeral with full military honors. He was quickly buried and the remains of his dreidecker were shipped back to England for analysis. His death marked the end of an era, the end of the "lone wolf" pilots.
Arthur Rhys-Davids would fall to enemy fire himself on October 12, 1917 with 25 victories to his credit.
James McCudden would later die in a crash when his plane failed him on take off. He had 57 victories to his credit at the time.
"His flying was wonderful, his courage magnificent and in my opinion he is the bravest German airman whom it has been my privilege to see fight." James McCudden
"If I could only have brought him down alive..." Arthur Rhys-Davids to James McCudden
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Participants
Name Survived? Victories
at time of
engagement Total Victories
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
James McCudden Killed in
flying accident
9 July 1918 12 57
Gerald "Beery" Bowman Survived
died 25 March 1970 16 21
Richard Mayberry KIA
19 December 1917 13 21
Keith Muspratt Died in plane crash,
19 March 1918 6 8
Arhtur Rhys-Davids KIA
27 October 1917 18 25
Reginald Hoidge Survived
Died 1 March 1963 22 28
Harold Hamersley Survived
Died in December 1967 2 13
Robert Chidlaw-Roberts Survived
Died 1 June 1989 5 10
Cronyn (unknown) ? 2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: Cronyn, Hamersley, and Chidlaw-Roberts were with 60 Squadron. Cronyn was forced down with heavy damage just as the fight got started. Hamersley and Chidlaw-Roberts would survive the Voß' attack with assistance from 56 Squadron, but only with heavy damage. The red nosed Albatros, most likely from the Jasta McCudden had spotted attempts to help Voß but arrive too late. Rhys-Davids will claim a second victory when we downs Karl Menckhoff of Jasta 3. Menckhoff survived this attack, will be shot down on two more occasions and survive the war.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Damage to B Flight
Voss managed to hit every SE5 in B Flight. Some of the planes received extensive damage as described in Aces & Aeroplanes 1" "McCudden's statement that Voss 'had put some bullets through all our machines' was understating the case. The havoc that Voss had caused had been considerable.
Muspratt force-landed at No. 1 Squadron's aerodrome with a bullet in his radiator; Chidlaw-Roberts' SE was considerably shot about, although he managed to return to St Marie Cappel and Maybery's machine was hit in the upper right hand longeron and badly damaged, necessitating its return to 1AD.
Hamersley managed to land his badly damaged SE at No. 29 Squadron's aerodrome at Poperinghe. In the brief flurry of the first encounter Voss had shot through the machine's bottom left hand engine bearer, two top planes and the centre section, spars, ribs, rudder and kingpost, the water jacket on the right hand side of the engine, radiator, propeller, CC gear, generator and oil pipes, and had put 'numerous holes in the fabric'. The aeroplane was a write-off and was eventually sent to 1AD.
"Cronyn's SE5a had also been considerably damaged, and he was lucky to be able to return to his aerodrome at Estree Blanche. Cronyn later wrote to his father:
'After Mess I went up to the hangar to have a look at my machine. It was a write-off and no mistake. The right lower longeron had a bullet hole through it, while the left lower was nearly cut in two, either by "Archie" or bullets, but there was only about a quarter of an inch thickness left in one place, while about 18 inches further along three bullets had cut right through. The main spars were shot through, and one of the ribs of the tailplane was fractured, by the only bullet he had got into me while on or nearly on my tail. There were also several other bullet holes in wings and fuselage. Besides these few details, the machine was all OK! It was a miracle he didn't hit me in the engine. As a matter of fact he got one in my prop. I went to bed as soon as I had a good look over the machine, but could hardly sleep a wink. I just lay in bed perspiring, though it was quite a cold night.' "
Thanks for the report, Greg ;D
I think 1/4 scale is large enough to carry BB guns!!!! :o
Hey Gordon! You'd better get some build progress up here before we forget what this thread was about :)
It will be cool to have some good representation from the "Great War" at the warbird FF next year.
Robert
as I take this even MORE OFF TOPIC.. are you doing the counter rotating props Piker? that would be the extra bling to make it a crazy cool model!
Perhaps I should. Contra's are available these days...
I'll plan for that.
Robert
I'll definitely be removing balsa from the Eindecker box tomorrow and will post a photo to prove it!
(Rob, I agree with Ed that a counter-rotating prop would definitely kick the Seagull into the cool zone!)
OK, so the EIII build is underway. Spars, main ribs, LE and TE for the starboard wing are glued in place. Tomorrow the false ribs and aileron structure will be completed. I am using Superphatic glue, as I have developed an intolerance to CA fumes. Great stuff, but takes awhile to dry, so I'll be moving slowly. So far all the parts have clean die-cuts and fit really well.
Dawn Patrol, here we come!
Looks great! ;D
What are you going to do for a power system?
I have a G46 in the Bristol with a 4S and it was not enough (15X7 wood prop)... too scale for me! lol! I run a 5S, 3000 and it should be good now. The Eindecker might be a better choice for an e-conversion with the boxy fuse. OG (oh god) Gordon... I might have to build one too! ha ha! To much on my plate to consider that! But maybe....
Stephen it was nice to see you at the field with your son!
Gonna try the G46 on 4 cells first, just because I have some packs available.
The EIII fuse may be boxy, but there ain't much room!
on a 15X7 it was marginal. There is a video on you tube that Jeff took.. It was a bit underspowered. My plane is a bit fatter than the Eindecker. :-X
Gordon
Kind of late but check all the ribs. Make sure they are all the same and the nose ribs match them. Then remember the centre section sheeting goes above the ribs. There are no ribs reduced in height to allow for the centre section sheeting. At least none of mine were. Also the upper spar sits with its top above the ribs equal to the centre section sheeting which butts up against it front and back. Now you have an upper spar flush with the centre section sheeting but proud of all the remaining ribs and nose part ribs. That was my main issue.
The other problem area I have had so far is the ply which goes below the spar between the fuse sides. It didn't match the sides or clear the bottom of the wing. Be very careful of all the sheeting peices as one mistake in size gets you behind the eight ball fast. Lucky for me I have lots of spare sheet stock, although I didn't need it (yet).
As to covering. Originally I ordered 'linen' Solartex. I felt after looking at it a lot the 'antique' Solartex would look better (slightly translucent). In the end my son decided he prefered the look of the Pfalz eindekker so we are building a Pfalz E.I. I have a 15 foot roll of 21st century fabric but in the end elected to go with Ultracote (Oracover)and will be using black film for markings, rib tapes, fuselage borders and all flying surfaces which were outlined with black as well as the metal panels and all metalwork. I will dullcote all the "fabric" areas.
We are also changing the LG and using 1/6 size Williams Bros white vintage wheels (larger than called for in the kit) which will get the covers painted black.
Hope any of this helps.
Stephen
Sorry. I tried to edit my last post but the site is not allowing me to. On the Pfalz E.I the covering is white.
Stephen
Stephen -- thanks, great advice. The upper spar in my kit seems to be flush with the ribs. I will double check the centre section ribs and trim them if necessary.
I can't wait till next spring... Is there an ETA on when we can expect all the WW1 planes to be done? Should we do a mans bet and say the next WB event?
Well I'm the last person to be comitting to build deadlines, but I was aiming for Kingston next summer, which is late June. I think the warbird event at TEMAC was a couple of weeks before that this year, so around mid June. So is that our deadline?
I'm aiming for construction completion (framing) by the end of December to allow the beginning of the year for covering, equipment installation, and detailing. That should allow plenty of time to be ready for the Spring. Sounds reasonable, eh? ;D :-[
Let's bring the framed models to the Christmas party :)
Robert
Ok, I can try!
But that means I have to take some days off work and build all day! But sounds do able.
Actaully the framed models to the X-mas party would be fun... But you know that we are dealing with 1/4 panes here... lol!
The Eindecker wing is all framed up. I didn't experience any of the issues noted by Stephen... maybe BUSA has improved. Now I've gotta find me some hard balsa longerons, 'cause I am definitely not going to use the heavy 3/32" sheet fuz sides included in the kit.
Q: What would you guys use to put a 'bashed aluminum' finish on the ABS cowl?
I haven't worked with the material yet, but Flight Metal seems to be the way to go for a polished aluminum finish. I have a roll for my Ryan if I ever get back to that plane. I assume you could put the Flight Metal on the ABS, then work it into the desired finish you want... I guess :)
Glad to hear you're moving ahead on the build. We seem to have quite a bit of good, old fashion, balsa bashing going on this year. Very exciting ;D
Robert
Quote from: gordonbw on October 15, 2012, 05:46:16 PM
The Eindecker wing is all framed up. I didn't experience any of the issues noted by Stephen... maybe BUSA has improved. Now I've gotta find me some hard balsa longerons, 'cause I am definitely not going to use the heavy 3/16" sheet fuz sides included in the kit.
Gordon
Well mine has 3/32" sheet sides and poorly fitting ribs. Mine is supposed to be brand new from BUSA so maybe a new generation. Turns out to balance well even though I built it stock (solid sheet rear fuse, and tail feathers). Just covering so lots yet to go.
Stephen
I was also considering getting this kit.. Where did you find it? I checked AJ and their price seems way off the path compared to everyone else. I picked up my Bristol kit for $80 at a LHS. They seem to be asking the same price for the 90 size for the 40? I am not bashing AJ's as I am not a customer of theirs due to my location being a few K away from Pin. Where and how much does this one go for?
Gordon, Stephen, post more pics to get our mouths watering! ;o)
Great Hobbies sells it for $107. http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=BUS419. (http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=BUS419.)
I got a sweet deal on RCCanada ... $75 including decals, vintage wheels and scale machine gun.
I had Pinnacle bring it in after seeing they were now carrying BUSA products. The price was within a buck or two of the US list (maybe less than list but don't remember, just happy). They also got in the gun and white tyre wheels. I wish Williams would do a putty grey not white colour as I think that is more correct.
Stephen
Gordon, any progress? ;)
Told you this would be slow!
I now have the materials on hand to build the stick fuselage. I'll be starting that tomorrow and will post another update on the weekend.
Gordon
I have both of the new Windsock books on the Fokker Eindekkers. If you need info let me know. I can copy plans etc.
Stephen
Thsnks Stephen! Info on colour schemes would be really helpful, if it's in the books.
I built the EIII fuselage sides this afternoon. I first cut off the 3/32" sheet sides from the kit just past location of the rear wing former. Then I built a stick frame for the LH side over the plan. The RH side was built directly on top of the completed LH side (wax paper in between the two assemblies) to ensure a match.
The fuse longerons are 1/4" x 3/16" basswood, uprights and diagonal trusses are 1/4 square balsa.
So far, so good.
Hey Gordon! Lookin' great. Keep up the good work.
Robert
I added 1/64" plywood gussets over each of the fuselage joints.
There's a huge amount of information about building techniques at the Airfield Models site: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/index.html (http://www.airfieldmodels.com/index.html). That's where I am getting help for this build. The author is way more of a perfectionist than me -- he sets a very high standard!
The fuselage is pretty much all framed up. It's not 100% perfect, but not too shabby either. The Warren truss framework is unbelievably stiff and I'm certain it's lighter than 3/32" sheeting. It should look nice under translucent Antique Solartex. A Turnigy G46 670kv motor is on order from the King. Predicted output on 4 cells with 13x6 prop is 394 W.
Now, must learn how to do laminated outlines for the fin, rudder and stab...
Looking good!
Today a 5' x 10" roll of aluminum tape arrived from srbatteries.com... to be used for finishing the EIII cowl and fuselage front. On inspection the material looks identical to the 2" HVAC aluminum duct tape available from Home Depot for $11.99. SRbatteries has some informative video tutorials showing how to apply it on their web site.
Looks like we are moving along. I am waiting for glue to dry. Tonight I have to mount the mid wing and line it up.
I laminated the outside edges of the fin today and rudder today. Will share pics when the framework for both is done ... work area is just too messy right now!
Good stuff, Gordon. The momentum is most excellent! Keep up the good work.
Robert
Well I just pick up the kit at graves Rc in Tampa Orlando area. Grabbed a 1/6 scale gun and pilot for it. What is the wheel size? They have tons on the Williams and Dubrovnik sets here. How is the build going?
:) Eindecker Progress Report! :)
The EIII framework is basically complete. Note the 1/64" ply gussets everywhere.
I did experience couple of D'OH moments. First, after completing the framed rudder I realized there was no attachment point for the control horn -- I had to go back and add structure. Second (and this is really lame), I forgot to add basswood reinforcements behind the wing spar for the wing bolts to go through. So, I had to open up the wing sheeting and install them. All's well now.
Next steps:
1. Complete the fuselage top, including cockpit
2. Build motor mount (Turnigy G46 arrived last week. Big honkin' motor!)
3. Install servos
4. Figure out how to mount the battery. I'm thinking about creating an access hatch directly under the nose, as it looks like the wing will have to come off to change batteries otherwise. That would not be fun with all the rigging wires I'm planning.
5. Create the scale landing gear (bending/soldering wire is my least favorite part of the building process)
On the shopping list:
- 2 rolls of Antique WorldTex covering
- 1/8" welding rod for landing gear
- Black elastic cord for rigging wires
- Aces of Iron WW1 pilot (which I will ask my artist spouse to paint)
- Some kind of dummy engine -- still have not found the right one.
Found a 1/6 scale dummy WWI engine at a reasonable price...
Dare Hobbies
http://www.darehobby.com/accessories/PDF/WWIRotar%20Engin%201028-2%20Instructions.pdf (http://www.darehobby.com/accessories/PDF/WWIRotar%20Engin%201028-2%20Instructions.pdf)
$17.95 + shipping
(and they refunded half the shipping after the order went through!)
Hey Gordon,
I mentioned a while ago that we should aim to bring our builds to the December meeting. Can you bring yours along for show and tell? Works in progress are intersting to people... I think.
What about you, Cadez, Hazelton, and Higgins? Anyone else doing some balsa bashing?
Is there enough room in the meeting room?
Robert
The bones of the EIII are done! Lots still to complete, but it sure feels great to have taken it from a box of sticks and sheets to something that actually looks like an airplane.
Next steps -- hinge ailerons, install servos, build battery hatch and tray, cover, and then lots of detailing.
(Don't look to closely at the landing gear -- my music wire soldering skills still need a lot of work).
Excellent Gordon! It looks like a real airplane now! Very cool.
Of course when you say not to look to closely at the landing gear, that's exactly what we do. Well I did and it looks really good to me. Lots of cool detail in there.
I've been working away too. I'll post some pictures soon.
Robert
wow that looks great
All ready to start covering! I worked on the darn thing at least two hours per day this week but it doesn't really look any different. Installing the cowl, battery hatch and tray, servos, arming switch, ESC and such proved fiddly and time consuming, as always.
Great work.
Today I covered the front of the fuselage and cowl cheeks with Flight Metal. After covering I burnished the aluminum, creating "engine turned" patterns using a small wad of steel wool attached to a Dremel brush.
The stuff is quite unforgiving and shows every flaw. Fortunately the burnishing process covers up a multitude of sins, and so the end result doesn't look too bad. I have a new level of respect for the Top Gun guys who use Flight Metal to cover their WWII warbirds and jets.
Next I will do the same to the cowling.
Very nice, Gordon. That effect worked out very well!
Did you put the Flite-Metal directly over the balsa, or did you glass the wood first?
What's the cowl made from? ABS?
Rob, I simply hardened the balsa with thin CA before applying the aluminum -- seems to work OK. The cowl parts are (unfortunately) ABS. I plan to reinforce the edges of the cowl with fiberglass before covering it.
I did a side-by-side comparison of the Flite Metal with aluminum sticky-back HVAC tape from Home Depot. Honestly, I can't tell the difference!
That is nice!
There's going to be a lot of really cool models at the field this year!
You bet! People seem to be building like mad this year! lol!
So here is the next question, how to we get everyone together to check all the planes out before someone takes them to the air. Just trying to be proactive and maybe see if the experts can assist in helping before we try to maiden?
The biggest thing is balancing a model. Power could be the next issue.. Watt test is the most important. ESC's, BEC's, Servo's, draw's, etc.
We all learned lots over the course of a few years. I know that I have! I can now work with wood (never before), I can cover (never before), I understand watts, amps, batteries, servo requirements and more.
I think it would be wise for anyone that never build before have someone look at the planes before they do a maiden.
I got side tracked, sorry..
But that would take the excitment out of the first flights! :o
How about the March "Pilots Meeting"?
I guess the problem is, staggered flight ready dates, then the desire to get out flying as soon as the weather starts to show promise (or sooner for some "Ice Pilots").
But I like the idea. We almost need a "Maiden Fest" ;D That would provide a meeting time to go over the models as you sugest. It would allow everyone to become more familiar with each other's models (which adds value to the experience and appreciation for what we're all doing), and would also be an awesome incentive for completeing the builds on time for that event.
Robert
The main thing is I don't want anyone to go home with a box of sticks! :'( We all spent too much time this winter on the planes..
Considering that we all themed them this year!
I think a new plane check-out would be a great idea for the March meeting! To speed things up, each of the builders could prepare a data sheet on his plane in advance, with the critical measurements including:
- All-up weight
- Wing area
- Wing loading
- CG location
- Motor KV
- Cell count
- Predicted power output (Watts/Lb)
- ESC capacity
- BEC or No
- #Servos
Got the fuselage and empennage covered today. Worldtex (aka Solartex) is the nicest covering material I have ever worked with! Shrinks around corners, trims without fraying, very easy to apply.
Gordon! That looks amazing! I got back to the DR-1 last night! Had some issues, I had working with ply.. I am starting to have a love hate with it. Back to Pin for some more materials..
Good Job!
Thanks Greg! I think I will need your advice in weathering it. Also, I bought this HobbyKing WW1 Pilot http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28230__Highly_Detailed_Model_Pilot_L77_x_W51_x_Hmm.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28230__Highly_Detailed_Model_Pilot_L77_x_W51_x_Hmm.html), which is going to need some additional work to look decent. How many beers?
That pilot is the right size for the model. Just order it. I can weather the model on my going rate of a 12 of lucky lager...
I did a few already for my own planes... I love them. If I could I would order hundreds!
Plus it is well worth the drive to the house.... The motivation factor is endless.
Once the DR-1 is done, it's time to get on the Eindecker too!
Yes! Looking very nice, Gordon. You're progressing very nicely.
That pilot looks good too.
Here is the same pilot with some "Cadez" weathering!
Ben's BUSA Eindekker 40 converted to a Pfalz E.I. At this point it is flyable and I need a break. Lots of details to be added over the winter. As is 4 lb 11 oz. Complete I figure it will still be under 5 lbs. This is with a Turnigy no-name 4260-500 and 6x A123 cells. I was hoping to use 4 cells and go with a 16" prop but need at least 5 cells for nose weight. I had a 6 cell pack and broke it up. I might drop a cell and see how it balances.
Stephen
Stephen, Happy New Year!
That looks great! You have been really busy! I like the crosses! ;D
Yes! Very Nice Stephen,
You and Ben will have to stop by TEMAC more often for some WWI flying this year!
Oh man, what beautiful work on the Pfalz! Now I really have to up my game.
Covering is all done! Next... finish connecting linkages, install radio and start detailing. I'll do the insignia first, then the machine gun, flying wires, windshield, cockpit coaming, and dummy engine.
Gordon, I really like how that cowling etc turned out ... amazing job!
Colin
It's all nice, but that brushed metal look is just fantastic!
Guys
Happy new year to you and yours. The crosses are from the guy who cut my short kit of the Sterling Fledgling. I don't know if he used a vinyl cutter or a laser cutter but they are Oracover/Ultracote so are nice and thin. They are just a little off the early war design but close enough. Great work improving on the HK rip off of the Aces of Iron figure. Ben wants that for his pilot and I will buy from AOI myself.
Yes, we would both love to stop by more for some fun. And please drop by KMAC anytime for a visit.
Gordon you have nothing to 'up' on your build is great. I used Oracover/Ultracote throughout. I will use a little Testors dullcote on the 'fabric' areas at some point. Note, however that WWI finishes were very glossy. All you have to do is see pictures of the era with the light at the right angle and it is amazing how much gloss those finishes had. I am not very much further along than you, just radio install and markings. Note the MG of the era (early war) is a little different than the Williams brother's standard kit. Although way off scale the span on this kit makes it about 1/6 for the Pfalz E.I so standard Williams Brother's 1/6 scale equipment is the order of the day! The Fokker E.III would be more 1/7 but who cares!
Here is a clipped shot I found quickly on-line of the LMG08 (as opposed to the LMG08/15). It shows how the back is square with the top and not cut down like on the /15. I don't know about other differences off hand. I have a mini datafile on the guns and either will modify accordingly or build a very simple wooden replacement. What on earth they were using for the basis of what is in my kit god only knows! In my case it only has to look good 10 ft. away.
Stephen
I guess. You are the winner. First plane covered in 2013! Great work. Looks amazing.
How did the cg turn out?
I have not balanced it properly yet (just finger tests) but I'm concerned it's gonna be nose heavy with the battery I am planning to use. Surprise, surprise!
If that is the case. Maybe get a g32? Reduce the weight?
I think I'm going to call it finished. I was going to add a Williams Brothers machine gun, but the plastic kit is just too fragile to stand up to transportation. As well, the dummy engine I bought will not fit under the cowl.
Nevertheless, even without those final fluffs, it looks rather nice.
Really nice!
I especially like the 'flying wires'.
Looks fabulous! Nice work.
Wow she looks great!
REALLY sharp Gordon! I really like how the cowl etc (silver parts) turned out.
Colin
Wow amazing!
Congratulations, that's a beautiful job. Well done!
Jack.
Thanks guys! Can't wait for WWI maiden day at TEMAC!
Yes! The Eindecker looks great, Gordon! Great job.
I just hope you're not the ONLY one with a WWI plane ready to go! I'm sure Michael will have his spy plane ready :)
In authentic hi-gloss finish!
Don't get me started on THAT! :P
Any more beauty shots?
Today I balanced the Eindecker -- it required 12 oz of church roof in the nose. I also set up the radio and ran the motor for the first time. With 4 cells and a 14.8 prop I am getting 703 watts at 43.5 amps. I think that's enough grunt.
Plenty of power!
Well did the maiden today at our Maidenfest. Flew great, not one click trim on any control. Whoo Hooo! I haven't bench tested this combo (hard to believe for me) but on 5S A123s, about 6 mins flight time at 1/2 throttle I had to add 1.25Ah for the second flight. Motor is some kind of Hobby King all black 4260-500 (discontinued sale last year) a 14x10 MA wood glow prop and a 50A Birdie ESC I won as a pilot prize at Jerzy's North Bay electric meet last year. Servos are two HS80s on ailerons and an HS85BB each on rudder and elevator.
Stephen
Gordon, not like I am trying to relive this post, but I am starting the eindecker now that the DR-1 is done... My work bench is now getting ready for the build.
I wanted to know how did you determine the location of the sticks for the fuse? I know that you cut the two panel at the wing area and then made the sticks for the fuse halves. I am going to do the same. I might not do a built up elevator, but tail for sure. I want to make mine a fun flier so that I can join you chasing the others around.
I just wanted to mention that I have not looked at the plans. If you bring the plane out again, can I take a look at how you mounted the battery. I wanted to do a 4S-5S and was wondering if you take the wing off to disconnect and install a new battery? Did you make a hatch? I can't recall! Looking forward to the build this winter...
Plus it gives me a chance to clean up!
I am going to make mine look like this one....
Greg,
The flight battery on my Eindecker goes just behind the firewall. There's a hatch for it on the underside. Lots of room for a 4 or 5s there.
Re the stick fuselage....I used the original fuse sides (sheet) to trace an outline plan, and then basically made it up as I went along. It was pretty easy.
Do the built up elevator. It's really tail heavy and you're gonna want to lose weight behind the CG.
Somebody needs to order the ARF Airco DH1 from Maxford so we can have an authentic WW1 dogfight!