I still want to build a CL-215 (round engines rule!) but for now, a model of a Russian plane.
The real one is a twin turbofan powered amphibious water bomber.
Since my two passions in RC are EDFs and floatplanes, this was a natural...I am the moth drawn to the flame.
I purchased the kit from Germany and had it shipped home. I've dragged it with me on vacation (two months) and have started the build.
The model is constructed of depron with a few bits of 1/16"(1.5mm) and 1/32" (0.8mm) ply. I initially bought just the plans and subsequently the depron laser cut parts kit from scale-parkflyer. I'm glad I sprung for the parts kit...the number of parts is staggering and the precision of laser cut depron parts is both a treat and a challenge.
Wingspan is approx. 64"(1600mm) fuselage roughly 55" (1400mm) and the plan calls for 2x 70mm edfs on 3S for power. I've already decided to go with 4S and hope I don't regret that change.
Scale-parkflyer provides assembly instructions on-line but they're in German! 😳 Google translation leaves a lot to be desired...thank goodness for the pictures!
I've gotten far enough to realize; I have to cut the wood parts myself, several of the tools I need are 1500 mi away at home, the LHS does not have a good selection of large pieces of thin aircraft ply and the coping saw available at the local ACE hardware store is hopelessly coarse at 20 tpi.
But, I like building on vacation...I have ordered a large sheet of 1/16" ply from Balsa USA, finer coping saw blades from the manufacturer and waterproof 9g servos from HK. I like the whooshy sound of 12 blade edfs and have ordered 70mm units and ESCs from Motion.
I've fitted the depron fuse formers, "stringers" upper and lower spines together and cut the rear fuse/wing-saddle ply former using the finest blade I could find but it took a l o n g time and the cut edges are ragged. Not much more will happen to fuse or wings luntil the ordered bits arrive.
One photo of the partially assembled fuse, one of the full size and one of the hand cut ply fuse former.
The laser cut depron pieces arrived in a 9" (225mm)x 10" (250mm)x40"(1m) box which weighed less than 3 lb...most of which was the box.
Except for two, the pieces inside were in perfect shape and the three sheets of depron for covering were in almost perfect condition. I can only begin to guess how long it would have taken to cut these by hand.
Picture shows the box after all the fuse parts had been removed. Other photos, the real thing in action...
I'll work on the tail section while I wait for the ordered bits to arrive...ordered the motors and ESCs this morning
Sorted out all the small parts according to where they're going to end up on the model. I think the parts were sorted to fit them into a small package for shipping when they arrived.
Used foam safe CA to build rudder and frame up vertical stab. I've left one side of v.stab uncovered so I can install wooden or carbon strip supports, stabilator pivot hard points and stabilator drive. The BE-200 is a T-tail, with a stabilator, so stabilator drive is a little trickier than conventional tail. I'm toying with the idea of driving the stabilator with a Sullivan Golden rod, but still not sure how to connect drive cable to stabilator and not sure how much a stabilator needs to move compared to an elevator. Any thoughts appreciated.
Besides sticking my fingers to the model, CA on my fingers defeats iPad fingerprint recognition! Grrr!
Mr. Nutz,
Great to see you are back at building. I have seen the videos of the Russian water bomber. A weird but effective airplane.
Great to see you are continuing the tradition of beer can/bottles in your build photos.
Enjoy your stay. You stay warm. We will do the freezing for you. ;D
Safe home.
Frank
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 21, 2020, 08:23:48 PM
Sorted out all the small parts according to where they're going to end up on the model. I think the parts were sorted to fit them into a small package for shipping when they arrived.
Used foam safe CA to build rudder and frame up vertical stab. I've left one side of v.stab uncovered so I can install wooden or carbon strip supports, stabilator pivot hard points and stabilator drive. The BE-200 is a T-tail, with a stabilator, so stabilator drive is a little trickier than conventional tail. I'm toying with the idea of driving the stabilator with a Sullivan Golden rod, but still not sure how to connect drive cable to stabilator and not sure how much a stabilator needs to move compared to an elevator. Any thoughts appreciated.
Hey Bill, looks good. Re: the golden rod. How about running the rod up the space in the forward edge of the stab and simply fashion some attachment to the bar at the forward rod connecting stabilator halfs? Perhaps that rod could be a piece of copper with an eye of some sort soldered to it, to which the cable of the golden rod would in turn attach. Obviously it has to be permanent and secure, as getting to it after the stab is finished would require surgery of the depron.
This looks amazing Bill. Fabulous build.
Quote from: octagon on January 22, 2020, 12:58:56 PM
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 21, 2020, 08:23:48 PM
Sorted out all the small parts according to where they're going to end up on the model. I think the parts were sorted to fit them into a small package for shipping when they arrived.
Used foam safe CA to build rudder and frame up vertical stab. I've left one side of v.stab uncovered so I can install wooden or carbon strip supports, stabilator pivot hard points and stabilator drive. The BE-200 is a T-tail, with a stabilator, so stabilator drive is a little trickier than conventional tail. I'm toying with the idea of driving the stabilator with a Sullivan Golden rod, but still not sure how to connect drive cable to stabilator and not sure how much a stabilator needs to move compared to an elevator. Any thoughts appreciated.
Hey Bill, looks good. Re: the golden rod. How about running the rod up the space in the forward edge of the stab and simply fashion some attachment to the bar at the forward rod connecting stabilator halfs? Perhaps that rod could be a piece of copper with an eye of some sort soldered to it, to which the cable of the golden rod would in turn attach. Obviously it has to be permanent and secure, as getting to it after the stab is finished would require surgery of the depron.
Rob,
Thanks for taking the time to offer a suggestion.
While I was supposed to be sleeping last night, my mind was wrestling with how to attach the Gold-n-Rod to the stabilator and I came up with a plan that's a variation on your idea...it'll involve drilling a small hole in a piece of carbon strip which will be a cross bar between the two stabilator halves. I've done several T-tails with an h. stab/elevator configuration, but the stabilator/T-tail is a new problem and I wanted to try something different from the supplier's servo in the rudder/wooden pushrod configuration. I've opted for slightly bigger EDFs than recommended and since they sit slightly behind the cg, any weight I can remove from the tail will make balancing easier. As soon as my ordered stuff shows up, and I make another visit to the LHS, I'll start building it.
Simon,
Thanks for the kind words...hope I finish this one! I have two other builds started on this forum and they're both back in Bobcaygeon!
Sorted out the float parts and glued together the two left and two right halves...some serious sanding in the offing. Coping saw blades to arrive next Monday, so slow progress until then...
And all while doing the crossword... very cool!
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 22, 2020, 06:06:52 PM
Quote from: octagon on January 22, 2020, 12:58:56 PM
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 21, 2020, 08:23:48 PM
Sorted out all the small parts according to where they're going to end up on the model. I think the parts were sorted to fit them into a small package for shipping when they arrived.
Used foam safe CA to build rudder and frame up vertical stab. I've left one side of v.stab uncovered so I can install wooden or carbon strip supports, stabilator pivot hard points and stabilator drive. The BE-200 is a T-tail, with a stabilator, so stabilator drive is a little trickier than conventional tail. I'm toying with the idea of driving the stabilator with a Sullivan Golden rod, but still not sure how to connect drive cable to stabilator and not sure how much a stabilator needs to move compared to an elevator. Any thoughts appreciated.
Hey Bill, looks good. Re: the golden rod. How about running the rod up the space in the forward edge of the stab and simply fashion some attachment to the bar at the forward rod connecting stabilator halfs? Perhaps that rod could be a piece of copper with an eye of some sort soldered to it, to which the cable of the golden rod would in turn attach. Obviously it has to be permanent and secure, as getting to it after the stab is finished would require surgery of the depron.
Rob,
Thanks for taking the time to offer a suggestion.
While I was supposed to be sleeping last night, my mind was wrestling with how to attach the Gold-n-Rod to the stabilator and I came up with a plan that's a variation on your idea...it'll involve drilling a small hole in a piece of carbon strip which will be a cross bar between the two stabilator halves. I've done several T-tails with an h. stab/elevator configuration, but the stabilator/T-tail is a new problem and I wanted to try something different from the supplier's servo in the rudder/wooden pushrod configuration. I've opted for slightly bigger EDFs than recommended and since they sit slightly behind the cg, any weight I can remove from the tail will make balancing easier. As soon as my ordered stuff shows up, and I make another visit to the LHS, I'll start building it.
Simon,
Thanks for the kind words...hope I finish this one! I have two other builds started on this forum and they're both back in Bobcaygeon!
Another idea occured to me Bill. (Frankly I love the challenge of designing something that does not exist yet). Instead of drilling a hole in the carbon, how about using a carbon rod the same diameter as a ball link. You could slip the ball link over the carbon rod, thereby not risking weakening it with a hole. Then solder a brass threaded adapter to the end of the golden rod cable and screw it into the ball link. I built a Sagita sailplane 2 winters ago. It has a full flying tail similar to your water bomber, although the stabilator is only 1/2 way up the vertical stab. That kit came with the hardware to do what I have suggested with the ball link.
Anyway Bill, as with any free advice, take it for what it is worth. Good luck with the build. I will very much look forward to seeing it fly when you are finished.
Cheers, Rob
Quote from: octagon on January 22, 2020, 10:12:52 PM
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 22, 2020, 06:06:52 PM
Quote from: octagon on January 22, 2020, 12:58:56 PM
Quote from: Wingnutz on January 21, 2020, 08:23:48 PM
Sorted out all the small parts according to where they're going to end up on the model. I think the parts were sorted to fit them into a small package for shipping when they arrived.
Used foam safe CA to build rudder and frame up vertical stab. I've left one side of v.stab uncovered so I can install wooden or carbon strip supports, stabilator pivot hard points and stabilator drive. The BE-200 is a T-tail, with a stabilator, so stabilator drive is a little trickier than conventional tail. I'm toying with the idea of driving the stabilator with a Sullivan Golden rod, but still not sure how to connect drive cable to stabilator and not sure how much a stabilator needs to move compared to an elevator. Any thoughts appreciated.
Hey Bill, looks good. Re: the golden rod. How about running the rod up the space in the forward edge of the stab and simply fashion some attachment to the bar at the forward rod connecting stabilator halfs? Perhaps that rod could be a piece of copper with an eye of some sort soldered to it, to which the cable of the golden rod would in turn attach. Obviously it has to be permanent and secure, as getting to it after the stab is finished would require surgery of the depron.
Rob,
Thanks for taking the time to offer a suggestion.
While I was supposed to be sleeping last night, my mind was wrestling with how to attach the Gold-n-Rod to the stabilator and I came up with a plan that's a variation on your idea...it'll involve drilling a small hole in a piece of carbon strip which will be a cross bar between the two stabilator halves. I've done several T-tails with an h. stab/elevator configuration, but the stabilator/T-tail is a new problem and I wanted to try something different from the supplier's servo in the rudder/wooden pushrod configuration. I've opted for slightly bigger EDFs than recommended and since they sit slightly behind the cg, any weight I can remove from the tail will make balancing easier. As soon as my ordered stuff shows up, and I make another visit to the LHS, I'll start building it.
Simon,
Thanks for the kind words...hope I finish this one! I have two other builds started on this forum and they're both back in Bobcaygeon!
Another idea occured to me Bill. (Frankly I love the challenge of designing something that does not exist yet). Instead of drilling a hole in the carbon, how about using a carbon rod the same diameter as a ball link. You could slip the ball link over the carbon rod, thereby not risking weakening it with a hole. Then solder a brass threaded adapter to the end of the golden rod cable and screw it into the ball link. I built a Sagita sailplane 2 winters ago. It has a full flying tail similar to your water bomber, although the stabilator is only 1/2 way up the vertical stab. That kit came with the hardware to do what I have suggested with the ball link.
Anyway Bill, as with any free advice, take it for what it is worth. Good luck with the build. I will very much look forward to seeing it fly when you are finished.
Cheers, Rob
Rob, if we keep quoting each other, one post will soon take up a whole page!
I really like your latest idea. The threaded shaft in the Gold-n-Rod is 2-56 and Du-bro makes a ball joint with 2-56 threaded shaft...cost, $1.98.
I'll only have to spend $98.02 to get free shipping!
Hey Bill! This project is Awesome! So cool. I'll be watching with huge interest!
Thanks Rob,
It'll be slow, and I'll have to wait until we're home to finish...in one piece, it's too big to go in the car with all the stuff from our stay!
Rough "carved" the float halves using an Olfa utility knife. I'm convinced the black blades are sharper than #11 hobby knife blades.
Sorry davidk, the crossword's not done...yet!
Using Rob D.'s idea, I put the stabilator drive together. Sullivan Gold-n-Rod, Du-bro ball link, aluminum tube and carbon rod. Picture shows one half of the stabilator and the v.stab with one skin removed.
There're no hard points for pivots yet, but it still seems to work.
https://youtu.be/5qY0Jnm5OQw
Bill,
my earlier post "Great to see you are continuing the tradition of beer can/bottles in your build photos."
Two posts with photos but without beer cans. Soooo disappointing. ;)
Keep building and get home safely. 8)
Frank
Sorry Frank,
My failure to include my traditional size reference in recent photos should not be taken to mean I have stopped drinking Canadian beer. I will try to maintain the tradition in my posted photos, but it will have to be cans, not bottles,...great special on cans at duty free when we came down and they take less space when you're travelling! Tune in for the next post!
That's a great model, I wanted to see it fly for a long time, they assemble the actual airplane in my hometown, "Irkutsk" .
where have you found the blueprint? can you please share it with us?
How will you handle the CG when it picks up water... and then drops that water? Or does it stay balanced during that process?
David,
re: your comment "....and then drops that water?"
The builder is Wingnutz! This plane will be dropping Canadian beer. ;D
Frank
Quote from: VadimKirillov on January 27, 2020, 03:41:26 PM
That's a great model, I wanted to see it fly for a long time, they assemble the actual airplane in my hometown, "Irkutsk" .
where have you found the blueprint? can you please share it with us?
Vadim,
Great to have an Irkutskian following the thread! I do not have a digital copy of the blueprint but paper copies are available at scale-parkflyer.de. I have a paper blueprint at home...but right now, that's 1500 mi away...yeah, as a proud Canadian, I should use km, but right now, I'm in the US and mi it is!
I've been on a bit of a Russian ( east bloc?) kick recently and bought an L-39 Albatros to fly at the local RC club. Sorry, PNP, no build!
Quote from: davidk on January 27, 2020, 04:01:24 PM
How will you handle the CG when it picks up water... and then drops that water? Or does it stay balanced during that process?
Davidk,
Like most RC water bombers, this one will not have any water carrying capability. If I can make a scale EDF take-off and land from water, I'll be more than thrilled! I have a converted to EDF Polaris which will take off and land from water, but it's hardly scale. It has an older tortured leaf blower generation EDF and has earned its nickname Hoover. The Beriev will have 12 blade EDFs which I hope will sound more realistic.
Quote from: Frank v B on January 27, 2020, 05:36:40 PM
David,
re: your comment "....and then drops that water?"
The builder is Wingnutz! This plane will be dropping Canadian beer. ;D
Frank
Frank,
Drop beer on a fire? :o...only if there's any left! Only minimal progress on the "beer bomber" so no picture with appropriately patriotic size references, but today, the last ordered stuff was delivered, so I now have servos, motors, ESCs, coping saw blades and a 1/16"x1'x4' sheet of aircraft ply from Balsa USA...silly expensive, but I now have no excuses and will post "referenced" photos of progress soon.
Mr. Nutz,
re: "Drop beer on a fire?"
Well, they drop fire retardant foam on a fire. Beer has that in spades. ;D ;D
It will get the volunteer firefighters out in a hurry. Five thousand firefighters fighting a brush fire as soon as a water bomber is called into action. ;)
Safe home.
Frank
Frank...marvellous idea for motivating firefighters! Drop beer on them!
Got back to building the beer bomber yesterday...worked on the hard points for stabilator shaft as the first try left a lot to be desired in terms of a stable stabilator and I'm concerned about getting the shaft level and straight. Re-built the 1/16" ply on one side and added ply "donuts" outside on both sides of the v.stab. With careful final assembly, I think this will allow a straight, level, stable stabilator :)
Off to the LHS to get another Sullivan Gold-n-Rod for the rudder...think I've figured out how to route the cable so it will run freely in the correct direction.
Started framing up one wing. The wing is built on a pre-cut and marked 1/8" (3mm) depron sheet. The main spar and "drag" spar are built from 6mm depron (also cut and marked) glued to a 1/16" (1.5mm) piece of aircraft ply approx 32" (800mm) long. Cutting the wooden spars without a scroll saw has been a treat...don't ask about the food cutting board that has served as a cutting "bench"! I'm planning to hinge the aileron with hinge tape applied to the upper surface of the wing and aileron itself, so the upper surface of the built up aileron protrudes about 1/16" ahead of the aileron leading edge. I'm hoping the right tape will help stiffen the aileron by tying it to the wing. Repeated the preceding for the second wing.
Cut a 1/16" deep recess in the inner half of each float. This will allow the float halves to seat properly around the 1/16" ply float support.
Also cut a slot in the leading part of the fin and sunk the Gold-n-Rod outer tube where it will sit to drive the rudder.
So... are airplanes designed around the width of Canadian beer cans? Just wondering! And... what was used before cans??? A Stubby?
Quote from: davidk on February 15, 2020, 08:45:23 PM
So... are airplanes designed around the width of Canadian beer cans? Just wondering! And... what was used before cans??? A Stubby?
Perhaps we should add "Canadian"(beer can as the standard linear and volume unit) to metric, imperial and US measure, then we could really confuse things instead of just confusing them...good idea!
...and, BC?(before cans?)...BO (bottles)!
... and BS?(before stubbies)...BO
...actually this is all BS...
I should stick to trying to build model airplanes instead of aspiring to heights of bad humour like the masters; Frank, Bruce and Andy. I'll go glue some ribs...
David,
I don't think you have met Mr. Nutz.
He is the most patriotic Canadian modeler who, just like you, spends cold days in Florida to stop from going mad. All his models have a Canadian flavour (taste) and he is a patriotic beer drinker as well. He thinks hell is the place where you have to drink American beer all day. ;D
When he announced he was building a Beriev it could only mean the Cold War was definitely over. It could indicate he is considering switching over to Vodka as the fire fighting liquid of choice.
We certainly hope he comes to visit us more often this coming season. We missed him last year.
Frank
Quote from: Frank v B on February 17, 2020, 04:12:08 PM
David,
I don't think you have met Mr. Nutz.
He is the most patriotic Canadian modeler who, just like you, spends cold days in Florida to stop from going mad. All his models have a Canadian flavour (taste) and he is a patriotic beer drinker as well. He thinks hell is the place where you have to drink American beer all day. ;D
When he announced he was building a Beriev it could only mean the Cold War was definitely over. It could indicate he is considering switching over to Vodka as the fire fighting liquid of choice.
We certainly hope he comes to visit us more often this coming season. We missed him last year.
Frank
I will test the solvent qualities of vodka on depron and my stomach soon, but as to the likelihood the Beriev which became the beer bomber, becoming the Bolshoi bomber...nyet (Russian contraction for not yet).
As for adding some Canadian (or maybe Soviet) content over ROGO field, I'll do my best, especially for jets day...I miss the ROGO gang.
The assembly I can do is limited to structures small enough to pack for the trip back to Canada, so I can't put the wing or fuselage halves together or start skinning them, but I have actually done some work on the beer bomber starting on the engines and mounts. I had purchased a pair of 70mm edfs mistakenly thinking they were the recommended size. Turns out they should have been 64mm, and trying to fit the 70s would create new problems...so I've ordered two 64s...arrival end of this week. The plan is to use them with the ESCs ordered for the 70s and keep the 70s as backups if the model proves underpowered on ROW attempts(a couple of other builders have had this experience) I will post when I've made some progress and before heading home at the beginning of next month.
The 9g slim wing servos for the ailerons showed up yesterday. I originally ordered 9g waterproof servos for the model, but the wing tapers and where the aileron servo mounts, the wing is thin enough that a reg sized HK 9g servo won't fit. The slim wing 9g fits nicely...hopefully Corrosion-X will waterproof it. ???
I haven't decided whether to put the aileron pushrod on the bottom or top of the wing. Recommended is on top and the opening for the servo arm seems less likely to admit water if the hole is there, BUT, I'm still tending towards putting the pushrod and servo arm hole on the bottom so once water gets in, it can drain out. I'll add some pushrod/servo arm fairings wherever the hole is cut...thoughts appreciated...
Hand cut and glued the 1/16" ply wing saddle to the matching depron piece.
Speaking of depron, my inquiries indicate depron is getting very difficult to find in NA...anybody confirm or refute this? ???
The 64 mm EDF units arrived yesterday...12 blade for 4S...they look great...time will tell. Fabricated one engine nacelle out of a sheet of depron. The assembly instructions I've found are minimal, in German (or a rough translation), leading to lots of head-scratching and at least one mistake. This is definitely not a first build...even if you speak German (I don't)