TEMAC Nooner racer build thread!!

[Polecat]

Looks good Ed, what motor are you running, kv and prop. Should really move.

[Ededge2002]

I haven't totally set on my motor choice yet. The airframe requires a 28mm motor and with some care even an outrunner could be made to fit.  As this is Simon's plane I'm not going to give away what motor he will be using...... 

[sihinch]

I don't mind telling people - it'll be so lite and flown so well that it won't matter!!!

It's a 2836 inrunner, 2200kV. I think I got it from headsuprc last year (for a project that never happened!). I was planning to start with a 5x5 prop and see what the current draw is.

[Ededge2002]

Glued the two wing half's together tonight and installed the wing peg in the wing and the mounting hole in the fuse.   You might see some overlap of epoxy on the covering around the center section but im going to remove that covering when I put the glass cloth around the wing joint.

I drilled the hole out in the fuse by hand keeping the long bit level on the rear wing hold down block.  once done I put some thin CA into the hole and did it again..  Then i did it one more time.  each time i let the CA sit for a bit then hit it with kicker.  there is a nice solid bead around the hole now.  Then I installed the wing making carefull measurments that it was perfectly straight and taped it in place measuring to see if it moved once done.  Through the motor opening i used a 12" long 1/8" dril bit to slowly drill a nice straight hole into the leading edge of the wing.  Once all done that i cleaned everything up and installed the wing pin into the leading edge with epoxy.

[Ededge2002]

I WOULD show the progress that I made tonight glueing in the firewall but.....  I just knocked it out and will start again tomorrow!!   If you hold your ear up to the screen you will likely be able to hear the screams!

[Ededge2002]

Cleaned up the mess from last nights battle and redid the mount...  all was perfect till i ran a little bead of thin CA around the inside of the mount last night!  It kicked off in a huge bump on one side of the mount and when I installed the motor it was crooked!! 

added a thin layer of glass cloth to the mount aas it took quite a bit to knock it out.  It looked fine but with all the horse power Simon is running I figured it needed it.

Put the epoxy in the fuse. push the motor/mount into it and align.  wait till the epoxy 3/4 dries then remove the motor carefully so it dosent get glued in there. Cut cooling hole.

[thehaze]

Looks great!

Can't wait to get started on mine 

[Frank v B]

Make it lite, Ed!  Diet Nooner! 

[/i]

Ed,

Hey buddy, since you are building Simon's plane, don't forget to:

- put the big wing on the back.
- put the rudder/fin combination on the bottom of the fuse just behind the prop and tell him it is a skeg.
- put the motor in backwards with a chopped down prop and tell Simon it is a ducted fan.
- since you are putting two servos in the wing, carve a new canopy out of solid lead.

May you make all the mistakes on this plane and then make even more on yours.

Your friendly competitor,

Frank

ps: on a serious note, I found this plane flies very well nose heavy and has a very wide CG range.  I have flown it with 1300,1600 and 2200 mah batteries and never shifted the batteries to check the CG.

[Frank v B]

Guys,

re: motor choice.

I bought the Castle Creations 18 about 6 weeks ago and did some tests.  All were on 3 cells:

A 28:36mm inrunner 2700 KV
- just makes the 18 amp cut-off but only with an APC 4.1x4.1.
- draws 25 amps on a 5x5 APC
- any inrunner greater than 2700 kv would not be able to make the 18 amp cut-off on 3 cells.  It would have to go down to two cells to make the 18 amp cut-off.  Note: I did this on my little Shoestring.  It has a 28 mm inrunner at 3900 kv.  I cut it down to two cells and put on a 6x4 APC.  I believe it draws 25 amps on 2 cells.  It was drawing 50 amps on a 5x5 APC on 3 cells!!

Note: the 4.1" prop is the smallest prop APC makes.

I suspect the 2200 KV motors that Simon and Ed picked would be safer bets. It also allows you to do some prop work.  I suspect it would hit 18 amps with the APC 4.75 x 4.75 prop and may be over the 18 amp limit for the 5x5 (un-trimmed).

For what (watt??) it is worth.

Frank

[Ededge2002]

Quote"May you make all the mistakes on this plane and then make even more on yours. "

Im actualy thinking i might have used up all my energy/motivation on his and mine will be slapped together!!  Although building the first one has given me the chance to think and think again about what my plan for total domination is....  Oh and Simon's motor is 2200kv but mine........isnt!    I did run and measure amps/volts/rpm on Simon's motor and it will be a good performer so far as the numbers look!!

If only the shipment had arrived one day earlier and we could have the servos he ordered it possibly could have flown sunday!!  As it was i took the time to finish the Pyro!!  14.5oz (410g) 440W ready to fly!!  Think 485W/lb is enough??  the Rifle was only 390 on the same set up...

[Frank v B]

  Quote: Think 485W/lb is enough??

Ed, I commend you for your conservatism in powering model airplanes.  Keep in mind that when Rogo and Piker started in electric they had exactly a tenth of that power to achieve electric flight.

For years Rudie Nagelmakers and I have always recommended to newbies "always overpower an airplane.  You can always throttle back ... if you have to".  You have just redefined "overpowered".  I guess it is a relative term.

You and Ben will now officially be referred to as "Temac's Kilowatt Twins".   Also, we call them ESC's.  They are proportional you know.  You use them as glorified "on/off" switches.

Frank

[Ededge2002]

Simon has chosen to go with dual aileron servos.  this will enable him to flap them back and forth rapidly to make the plane go faster.  you may chose to go with a single servo...
Measure how far the fuse/wing mount goes up the wing cord.  you want the servo as far back as possible to clear the canopy.  On his model it was 17mm so I cut at 19mm to give a tiny bit of space.
Make the cut out the exact size of the servos.  The forward of the servo will sit flush with the wing and not occupy any fuse space with thse servos..  Others might a little.
Slavage some Great Planes Rifle aileron control horns.  (if you dont have any buy a Riffle fly it for 100 flights and crash it like these ones..  +-99 flights.)  This is something you and now I will need to purchase for there planes lol.
Cut slots and drill holes into the ailerons as shown.  The rods must countersink flush into the aileron so as not to reduce throw travel. 

Now take everyting off and move on to the next step.

[Ededge2002]

As the ARF comes covered there is no space to fiberglass the center section unless some covering is removed. Cutting the covering back to accomplish this WILL damage the wing sheeting in my opinion. The alternative is to cut it back with your soldering iron. The glassing process is to join the wing sheeting. This is the wings "spar" with a foam core wing.

Using tape make a line just outside how far you want to glass. In this case I did 1 1/4" or 33mm.
Burn  line and remove the covering.
Cut a strip of THIN glass cloth 1" wide (or what you feel will work)
I always spray cloth with a light coat of adhesive and lay the strip 12"(30cm) around the wing joint.
Thinning epoxy with a 50:50 ratio with rubbing alcohol makes great bond. Paint this into the cloth trying to fill the weave and make a good light bond.

[thehaze]

Thanks for the build thread. It's been very helpful.

Some questions..

1. Why go with two servos with that setup, when it could have been accomplished with one? I was thinking of going with a single servo setup provided I could find a linkage like the one you used to save weight. If I was to use two servos, I was thinking I'd just bury them in the wing further outboard and have a direct linkage instead.

2 what did you use to level the servo? Is that foam?

3. I'm guessing you'll need to recover the glassed section at the wing joint.

[Ededge2002]

[quote Some questions..

1. Why go with two servos with that setup, when it could have been accomplished with one? I was thinking of going with a single servo setup provided I could find a linkage like the one you used to save weight. If I was to use two servos, I was thinking I'd just bury them in the wing further outboard and have a direct linkage instead.

Two servos because it gives the ability to have flaps/spoilers and is easier to set up with minimal actual weight gain.  This wing was covered already and adding outboard servos would have been quite a pain.

2 what did you use to level the servo? Is that foam?
I did not level the servo I cut the hole on that angle so that the servo landed in that position.

3. I'm guessing you'll need to recover the glassed section at the wing joint.
Yes that portion will be recovered.
[/quote]