Michael's Red Eagle glider build log

[Michael]

I've been away on a short vacation, and I relaxed a lot, but my mind kept wandering to thoughts of building model airplanes.

Since I won't make the next Red Eagle building class, I decided I would start a building thread to share my progress with the first time builders. I hope these images and words will be helpful, and I encourage anyone to ask any questions.

I had a smaller piece of 2" pink Styrofoam on hand, and although it isn't big enough to build the wing, it was enough to start work on the tail (stabilizer/elevator and fin/rudder).

I cut out the tail sections from the plans and taped them to the Styrofoam with green masking tape. I will tape those plan sections back onto the plans later if needed.

I covered the plan tail sections with wax paper and taped that down smooth.

I then cut out all the tail parts from the balsa sheets and carefully laid the pieces near where they will be assembled.

This all took less than 15 minutes.

[Michael]

I then took each piece and carefully sanded off the parts that were attached-to and cut-from the balsa sheets.

I used a rough or coarse piece of sandpaper glued onto a flat piece of wood.

I sanded all the parts and this took less than 10 minutes. The balsa is very light and soft, and sands easily, so be careful not to remove more than should be removed.

The last image was taken by my wife as I blew balsa dust away from my face. 

Seriously though, it is wise to wear some kind of working mask/filter to protect your lungs from the dust and glue odor and fumes.

[Michael]

I use T-shaped pins to hold parts down when building.

I started pinning parts down on top of the wax-covered plans, only pinning through the balsa if I was sure it would not damage nor split the wood. I then applied glue to an adjacent piece and then carefully attached it according to the plans. In some cases, where a piece sits between 2 other pieces, I did not pin it down. As long as the fit is snug, I didn't pin it down. In some cases, I placed pins along the outer edge to hold them in place.

There is no right or wrong way to pin things down, but you do want to make sure that parts fit well before gluing, and that the parts fit is snug but not too tight, or else the finished part could twist or warp.

In one photo of the stabilizer there is a red arrow pointing to a location where one part doesn't fit exactly as shown on the plans. In this case, the finished shape and the strength of the stabilizer will not be compromised, so it doesn't really matter. I don't want to fill a loose joint with glue, and I don't want to force too tight a fit.

On the fin and rudder section, I glued the outer shapes together first, and then fit the other pieces inside.

I used CA (instant glue for wood) and finished this work in less than 15 minutes. I haven't had a chance to buy the "Express" wood glue that Jack spoke about at the first Red Eagle class, but I intend to, and will use it on further stages of construction.

Feel free to ask any questions.

[Papa]

This is great stuff, thank you Michael.


With regard to the part not fitting. This happens often. As a designer builds the first model from the plans he makes adjustments that are reflected in subsequent kits but may not necessarily be corrected on the drawing.


It's no big deal just an opportunity solve a problem.


Jack.

[Oscar]

Just want to say THANK YOU for posting your build. I am really appreciated your explanation and posting the tips and advice. It really helps!!

My printed plan does not have the marker/notes and the printout is very light. I had a hard time looking at it. But I should be okay, I think. I followed your suggestion by cutting the plan to smaller size. Otherwise, I don't even know how I can fit to the board.

I also follow Jack's suggest shopping list and got the tools.

Right now, I am trying to figure out which piece of wood that fits to the plan and start cutting them.

I do have a question. Does it matter which side is the front, or which piece should be use on the left / right? One thing I notice is each piece of strip, it has a red marker. I assume this is the front. But I can't figure out which one is for the left and which one is for the right.

Maybe I can ask the instructor tomorrow.

[Michael]

I'm happy if this helps.

If the pieces of balsa are the same shape and angles when you turn them over, then it really doesn't matter which side is up or down.

However, before you glue anything, show it at the meeting on Monday.

I won't be there, so please take some photos of the meeting and post them in one of these threads.

[Papa]

Hi Oscar, my plan is feint for part of the print.


Does anyone else have a similar problem?


If so let me know and I'll take a good one to staples and make copies.


Jack.

[Michael]

I've started on the fuselage; nothing too difficult as long as I'm careful and test-fit the pieces before gluing.

I'll do just a few more steps and then I'll bring what I have done to the next building class.

I'll be able to do a bit more work there, and mostly spend my time offering help if anyone needs.

In the photo, we can see I'm using my ipad to show the instructions.
That's definitely NOT a good idea; I certainly don't want to drop glue on that. I'll move it out of the room.

[piker]

That looks nice.  I'm looking forward to getting to my Red Eagle fuselage. 


Right now I'm working on my SkyWriter fuselage.  Just took a break to stop my finger from bleeding.  Nothing major... just a skinned knuckle from hitting my band saw... 

[Michael]

Ouch! 

[Michael]

The following is my attempt/method of installing a motor in my glider. I'm using an E-Flite 480 motor, but any similar motor could be used. Originally, I had wanted to mount the motor directly to (in back of) the front plywood former, but there wasn't enough room to accommodate the wires protruding from the motor case, so I decided to mount the motor on (to the front of) a separate new plywood former.

Step 1: Screw the motor to the included mount.

[Michael]

There are many ways of installing a motor in this model, and my intention is just to show how I did it. Different motors may require different methods.

******************

2: Fabricate a new former. This was ¼" thick (I used 2 pieces of 1/8th plywood glued together), and measured 1 3/8" square, or maybe a touch taller. Then holes were drilled to match the motor mount and the shaft and collar on the back of the motor. Blind nuts were installed from the rear, and then ground to match the firewall/former.

[Michael]

3. The motor needed some clearance on the sides (inside fuselage sides) and at the front former. The new firewall/former was fitted to make sure it was snug. The former/firewall was removed and the motor was screwed on, and then test fit in the fuselage. Note: once the firewall will be glued in, the motor will difficult to remove. Holes will need to be drilled at the front to unscrew the motor mount from the firewall, but if installed reasonably well, there will be no need to remove the motor.

The wires from the motor fit easily under the new firewall, which does not reach the inner floor of the fuselage.

[Michael]

4. I purchased a European folding prop group (spinner, hub and blades) to match the shaft diameter of the motor, and with a blade size that I feel will be strong but won't overheat the motor. This was about $50. Any kind of similar prop can be used; there are cheaper alternatives. Even a non-folding prop can be used to save money, but a prop that folds will allow the glider to fly longer.

I mounted the folding propeller to the motor shaft, snug, but not tight.

[Michael]

5. I carefully placed 2 small pieces of 1/32" sheet balsa between the front former and the rear of the spinner, tightened the adapter/hub/spinner to the motor shaft, and then carefully centered and pulled the motor/firewall unit back to keep the balsa sheets in place. The firewall was then glued in place. The sheeting was removed once the glue dried, and there is now a 1/32" clearance between the rear of the spinner and the front former.