How to cover a plane- Frank's Chica

[Frank v B]

Have decided to make covering a separate topic because several members are tackling the issue soon on their own projects (incl. Moshe, Nathan and BJ).

The post will outline the major steps common in all covering projects using the Chica as an example (build post is http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html).
- covering the airplane
- how to make and apply trim stripes
- how to twist wings (wash-out) when the covering is completed.

A few words up front:
1) colour selection- My name is not Andy so I mostly fly in the spring and summer.  You will notice most of my planes are white with contrasting trim, usually red on the leading edges.  The reasons are so the plane is visible in the sky.  When the sun reflects off a white plane, it makes it look bigger (most of my planes are small) and is a good contrast with the trees in the background when taking off and landing either way.
The red leading edge is so it contrasts when coming in for a landing, especially coming from the north.
A contrasting stripe on the top of the tail.  To help me determine right side up from upside down.  You may laugh, but a mid-wing airplane like the Chica is symmetrical. There is no motor and muffler as on a gasser to indicate up or down.  The tail determines up or down.  Remember, if you cannot see it, you cannot fly it (camouflage?)
2) Covering type- There are many brands and many have pro's and cons.  SolarFilm is the lowest heat shrink which is good for foam but will sag faster in the hot July sun.  Monokote is strongest but shrinks less and requires higher heat to shrink.  My choice- whatever I have lying around.  I usually buy covering at swap meets and have about 25 rolls in my shop.
3) Covering Tools- For the first 5 years I only used a sealing iron for both covering and shrinking.  A heat gun is not a requirement but makes some shrink jobs easier.
4) Cutting Tools: Use a new blade when you start covering- whether you are like me and use a #11 blade or Piker who uses single edge razor blades.  Get a good pair of scissors, a steel rule and a cutting mat.

The next post will start with covering the wings, the fuse, the tail feathers and the hatches.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Have decided to make covering a separate topic because several members are tackling the issue soon on their own projects (incl. Moshe, Nathan and BJ).

The post will outline the major steps common in all covering projects using the Chica as an example (build post is http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html).
- covering the airplane
- how to make and apply trim stripes
- how to twist wings (wash-out) when the covering is completed.

A few words up front:
1) colour selection- My name is not Andy so I mostly fly in the spring and summer.  You will notice most of my planes are white with contrasting trim, usually red on the leading edges.  The reasons are so the plane is visible in the sky.  When the sun reflects off a white plane, it makes it look bigger (most of my planes are small) and is a good contrast with the trees in the background when taking off and landing either way.
The red leading edge is so it contrasts when coming in for a landing, especially coming from the north.
A contrasting stripe on the top of the tail.  To help me determine right side up from upside down.  You may laugh, but a mid-wing airplane like the Chica is symmetrical.  The tail determines up and down.  Remember, if you cannot see it, you cannot fly it (camouflage?)
2) Covering type- There are many brands and many have pro's and cons.  SolarFilm is the lowest heat shrink which is good for foam but will sag faster in the hot July sun.  Monokote is strongest but shrinks less and requires higher heat to shrink.  My choice- whatever I have lying around.  I usually buy covering at swap meets and have about 25 rolls in my shop.
3) Covering Tools- For the first 5 years I only used a sealing iron for both covering and shrinking.  A heat gun is not a requirement but makes some shrink jobs easier.
4) Cutting Tools: Use a new blade when you start covering- whether you are like me and use a #11 blade or Piker who uses single edge razor blades.  Get a good pair of scissors, a steel rule and a cutting mat.

The next post will start with covering the wings, the fuse, the tail feathers and the hatches.

Frank

@Frank v B,

Wow!  You could cover your whole house and make the cover of Hangar Magazine!!  Maybe we could borrow an old Orenda from the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum and do the shrink in one go! 

Andy

[Andy Hoffer]

Have decided to make covering a separate topic because several members are tackling the issue soon on their own projects (incl. Moshe, Nathan and BJ).

The post will outline the major steps common in all covering projects using the Chica as an example (build post is http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6445.0.html).
- covering the airplane
- how to make and apply trim stripes
- how to twist wings (wash-out) when the covering is completed.

A few words up front:
1) colour selection- My name is not Andy so I mostly fly in the spring and summer.  You will notice most of my planes are white with contrasting trim, usually red on the leading edges.  The reasons are so the plane is visible in the sky.  When the sun reflects off a white plane, it makes it look bigger (most of my planes are small) and is a good contrast with the trees in the background when taking off and landing either way.
The red leading edge is so it contrasts when coming in for a landing, especially coming from the north.
A contrasting stripe on the top of the tail.  To help me determine right side up from upside down.  You may laugh, but a mid-wing airplane like the Chica is symmetrical. There is no motor and muffler as on a gasser to indicate up or down.  The tail determines up or down.  Remember, if you cannot see it, you cannot fly it (camouflage?)
2) Covering type- There are many brands and many have pro's and cons.  SolarFilm is the lowest heat shrink which is good for foam but will sag faster in the hot July sun.  Monokote is strongest but shrinks less and requires higher heat to shrink.  My choice- whatever I have lying around.  I usually buy covering at swap meets and have about 25 rolls in my shop.
3) Covering Tools- For the first 5 years I only used a sealing iron for both covering and shrinking.  A heat gun is not a requirement but makes some shrink jobs easier.
4) Cutting Tools: Use a new blade when you start covering- whether you are like me and use a #11 blade or Piker who uses single edge razor blades.  Get a good pair of scissors, a steel rule and a cutting mat.

The next post will start with covering the wings, the fuse, the tail feathers and the hatches.

Frank

This is an enormous help to @Frank v B, particularly when he is doing a precision landing in the trees!

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

Re:  "This is an enormous help to @Frank v B, particularly when he is doing a precision landing in the trees! "

I can tell you with 100% certainty that I have never landed in a TEMAC and environs tree.  Have landed everywhere else.   I have helped get other people's planes out of TEMAC trees.  Are you speaking from experience? 

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Andy,

Re:  "This is an enormous help to @Frank v B, particularly when he is doing a precision landing in the trees! "

I can tell you with 100% certainty that I have never landed in a TEMAC and environs tree.  Have landed everywhere else.   I have helped get other people's planes out of TEMAC trees.  Are you speaking from experience? 

Frank

Hi @Frank v B ,

I am thinking forward - to the 2018 flying season and your pursuit of new horizons, with your new, short-coupled Corsair!!

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re: "I am thinking forward"

Oh, so you want me to be a complete pilot by landing everywhere possible.  Only trees are missing from my CV.  Very thoughtful of you.  Of course you must speak from experience.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Andy,

re: "I am thinking forward"

Oh, so you want me to be a complete pilot by landing everywhere possible.  Only trees are missing from my CV.  Very thoughtful of you.  Of course you must speak from experience.

Frank

Why of course!  I have many photos of creative arboreal landings, made possible by the indomitable pilots at TEMAC!!  I speak from the experience of others who are more talented than myself.

Andy

[Frank v B]

Back to covering:

Prep work
1) change the blade in your knife and get a good pair of scissors
2) do the lightest colour first.  Dark over light, not the other way around.
3) make sure there are holes in the ribs so air does not get trapped in a rib bay when shrinking the covering. (Photo 1376) If a bay is hermetically sealed, it will puff and pull the covering off the ribs.  See photo.  The air escape is through the aileron servos.
4) Cover the bottom first.  That way the top covering overlaps the wing and the edge is on the bottom and not visible.
5) cover the entire wing first before shrinking the covering otherwise you can build in warps.
6) cut the covering about an inch larger than a half a wing.


Start covering:
- do the 4 inside corners of the ailerons first. (Photo 1377) Any small pieces will do.  If you don't do this, raw balsa will show in the corner.  Cosmetic for electrics, an oil soaker for internal combustion engines.
- tack the covering on the centre first with a heat seal iron.  A Loonie sized spot is fine.  I did the leading edge first.
- gently pull the covering at the wing tip so the overlap is even.  Tack the tip covering down to the wood.
- Cut an "X" where the servo protrudes so it will not pull the covering.
- Tack the trailing edge at the centre, then the trailing edge at the tip.  Now all 4 corners are stuck down.
- Cut the overlap at the leading edge so it wraps around about 1/2", tack it all down.
- do the trailing edge so it is all tacked down.  Cut a 45 degree slit at the aileron corners. Photo 1378
- the tip is done last.  Pull the covering and tack it down as far as you can before it starts to pucker.  Stop there.
- cut the covering at all the puckers. Photo 1381
- secure the strips starting at the trailing end of the wing tip. Photo 1382.  This is so that all overlaps are down wind.  You don't want the wind catching an edge as you approach the speed of sound.
- leave the covering un-shrunk until all four pieces of covering are in place. Photo 1383

I will do all 4 sections and then get back to you.

Frank

[Frank v B]

All 4 panels covered per the last post.

Covering the ailerons- I use the aileron cut-outs from the wing to cover the bottoms of the ailerons.  This requires a seam but it is on the bottom. (photo 1386) Two reasons i) 50/50 rule and ii) I am cheap! (waste not! )  Notice from the earlier photos that when the wing was being covered, I left the hinges in the ailerons.  Now that the wing is covered and so are the hinge slots, I transfer the hinge locations to the wing (photo 1385) so I will be able to use them to find the hinge slots in the ailerons after they are covered. (photo 1384)

The aileron is a solid balsa structure and not open like the wing.  Lay the covering on top of the aileron, line it up and tack it on one end with the heat iron.  Slowly move the iron from the tacked end towards the loose end without skipping a section. (photo 1387).  The purpose of not lifting the iron is not to trap an air bubble.  As you move it along to attach the covering, hold the covering in line with your fingers until the whole thing is covered.  If you accidentally trap an air bubble, puncture it with a #11 blade (or small pin) at one end of the bubble and squeeze the air out with the iron (or your finger) so the hole is at the unheated end.  The air needs to escape.  If you trap an air bubble, you must puncture it or the covering will not stick.

Once the aileron is covered, use the hinges in the wing to find the hinge locations in the newly covered aileron.

It is best to do all the same colour covering first on all parts of the plane (wing, fuse, tail feathers) before switching to another colour.  Colours like red and blue have a bad habit of sticking to the iron and stain the lighter covering, especially white.

The basic wing is covered and the ailerons are temporarily attached (photo 1390- bottom view, photo 1389 top view of covered wing).

Note: the covering still has not been shrunk.  Will do it just before the coloured trim is added.

Next steps, cover all other white areas (fin/rudder, stab/elevator, fuse).

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Hey @Frank v B,

Is that you ironing your pants with the heat sealing iron in the fourth photo (#1387) above (http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,6499.msg42382.html#msg42382)?!!

And is that "Port" I see on the bare part of the aileron in the first photo (#1386)?!!  That is SO nice!

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re: the pants- yep, but ironing will not fix them
re: "port" on the aileron.  Yep.  So nice you noticed.  Once a sailor, always.....

Bruce is using a magnifying glass to be able to say "Is that an aileron?" and you see the finer details of background and writing.

Frank

[bweaver]

Re: Bruce is using a magnifying glass to be able to say "Is that an aileron?" and you see the finer details of background and writing.

Port? Aileron, I'm still looking for the bottle>>>   Must only be a swally, the size of a thimble, because I can't see it?

[Frank v B]

While Bruce is looking for his wine (port!), let's cover the fuselage.

Normal fuse covering order is bottom first, sides 2nd and 3rd, top last.  Because I am using white and red I have to do the light colour first (white on the top half of the fuse).

Tack the covering on the front, stretch is straight and tack it at the back.  Slowly work the iron towards the tail without trapping air bubbles. (Photo 1391)  Do the flat side first, then curl it around the top and trim it.

At the wing saddle and hatch, cut slits on the curved surface and bend them over individually and tack them down inside. (photo 1392)
At the nose, cut as many slits you need to make the curve.  Pull each piece and tack it on the flat nose ring. (Photo 1393)
At the tail, curve the material around the fuse, trim it and seal it.

These photos show the two side pieces.  The next post will deal with the top.  A lot of the top will be cosmetic only to make the covering look symmetrical.

The wing saddle is now filled with small strips of covering.  Take a #11 blade and cut the long pieces.  Photo 1395 shows it after it is trimmed.  I usually coat the covering inside the fuse with some 5 minute epoxy later on to lock the covering in place.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

While Bruce is looking for his wine (port!), let's cover the fuselage.

Normal fuse covering order is bottom first, sides 2nd and 3rd, top last.  Because I am using white and red I have to do the light colour first (white on the top half of the fuse).

Tack the covering on the front, stretch is straight and tack it at the back.  Slowly work the iron towards the tail without trapping air bubbles. (Photo 1391)  Do the flat side first, then curl it around the top and trim it.

At the wing saddle and hatch, cut slits on the curved surface and bend them over individually and tack them down inside. (photo 1392)
At the nose, cut as many slits you need to make the curve.  Pull each piece and tack it on the flat nose ring. (Photo 1393)
At the tail, curve the material around the fuse, trim it and seal it.

These photos show the two side pieces.  The next post will deal with the top.  A lot of the top will be cosmetic only to make the covering look symmetrical.

The wing saddle is now filled with small strips of covering.  Take a #11 blade and cut the long pieces.  Photo 1395 shows it after it is trimmed.  I usually coat the covering inside the fuse with some 5 minute epoxy later on to lock the covering in place.

Frank

Looks great @Frank v B.

Do you get these from Cynthia or do you buy your own at the MAC, Revlon or Cover Girl counter at the local pharmacy? 

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re:"....or do you buy your own at the MAC, Revlon or Cover Girl counter at the local pharmacy?  "

Dunno.  You probably do! 
Just for you, the last photo of this plane will have lipstick on it.  Not mine of course... borrowed.

Frank