Frank- trying to make an 80 year-old retired pilot smile- a 50" span Tiger Moth

[Frank v B]

OK Guy, here is my solution to the problem.

- Hoped to do it in 2 halves and join them in the center stringer.  Couldn't do that because of the angled cabane struts.
- wanted to do 2 layers but that would have been too complicated (double the work).
- a single layer meant bracing all the way around, especially where it joined the existing fuse.  That's why the blocking in photo 09.

Final approach: single layer, 4 pieces, try to cover it in Monokote.  If too much trouble, paint it.

Photo 08- the two pieces cut for the starboard half.   Soaked them for 15 minutes slipped between a water soaked and folded shop towel.
Photo 09- blocking in place above the covered fuse portion.
Photo 10- the two pieces glued and pinned in place.
Photo 11- photo showing the two pieces in place on the right side.

Let it dry overnight.

Frank

[Frank v B]

How to make a joint in two pieces of balsa.

Just in case you think making the fuse top out of 4 pieces is difficult at a joint, here is how to do a random joint.

This is the way we do joints in wallpaper.

Photo 12- overlap the wood that have to be joined in the middle.
Photo 15- cut through both pieces of wood in a single cut.  Throw away the two scrap edges.
Photo 17- the pieces fit together like a glove.  ps: the small gaps that show are because I did not hold the knife completely vertical.  The thicker the wood, the more important it is.

This is a squigley joint just to show you how easy it is.  Straight joints are even easier.  Overlap the balsa, metal ruler, one knife cut.  If there is a small gap, I use wood glue because the moisture in the glue swells the wood and closes the gap.


Frank

[msatin]

Very nice Frank.
I presume you soaked the 2 pieces of balsa to make it easier to bend?

[bweaver]

Very nice Frank.
I presume you soaked the 2 pieces of balsa to make it easier to bend?

Obviously Frank would have used a 'wet blue shop towel' to accommodate this dampening practice. I understand it has to be a blue one.   See Frank, sometimes I pay attention. 

[Frank v B]

Mark,

Thanks.

Quick explanation of two of my assumptions:
1) Damp wood: absolutely so it can be bent without cracking.  My main worry was the sharper bend just at the bottom where its meets the yellow fuselage.  I glued the blocking there earlier.  The sharp angle change at the top end of the blocking is where the break would occur.  Absolutely no problem bending it.
2) Blue shop towel: these towels stay damp a lot longer than regular paper towels.  I fold them around the balsa so both sides are dampened.

Do you know this bweaver guy?  Me neither. 

Frank

[Frank v B]

Now for the port other side.  There had to be a better way.

Please remember that this whole job was made much more difficult because I wanted to preserve as much of Ray's work as possible.  I got the plane with the cabanes in place. They appeared quite solid.

This time I made a paper template then transferred it to balsa.  It is soaking in the same re-damped blue paper towel while I do this post.

Photo 18- On the paper template, note the 4 little cuts around the forward cabane strut.  These 4 cuts were there so I could fold them back around the strut and get an accurate template without an extra 3 or 4 trial fits.  Two were folded back, two stayed in place.  The long folded back part was left on so just in case the cut was too long, I could fold it back and mark the true cut line. 
The pencil mark at the top right hand corner is where the joint is located .  The piece of balsa I used was shorter so I will just make a filler piece later.

Photo 19- how the paper template fit around the struts.  Note the 4 little cuts around the cabane on the left.  Two are up, 2 are down.  The long cut was marked as well.
Photo 20- the template and the balsa piece.
Photo 21- The balsa is happily soaking up moisture.  Back soon.

Frank

[Frank v B]

The aft insert on the port side.

[Frank v B]

Filled, sanded, covered and the black instrument panel installed.

Next- clean the canopy and attach it.

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

@Frank v B , concerning you comment: "... the black instrument panel installed."
Are you not planning on adding decals or an image of a compass, turn & bank coordinator, etc. 
These would be just an added touch, you are so close!
Great job!!
Guy

[Frank v B]

Guy,

re: "... the black instrument panel installed."

There is always a critic in every crowd.     It represents a scale instrument panel after the electrical system shorted out while night flying!  So there.
I will come up with something to keep you happy. My brain is revving in neutral now but hope to find "forward" soon.

Thanks Maximoa,

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

@Frank v B  I did not want to leave you in a bind.  Here is a picture that you can scale down as needed to fit.

[Frank v B]

Guy,

Considerate!

I tried to expand it and print it and couldn't.  So I Frankensized the problem and made my own with a hole punch and peel and stick film.
6 round dials per cockpit plus a student brain wave indicator for the instructor's cockpit.  It is red, indicating non existent brainwaves.

Cleaned the cockpit canopy.  Just have to install the panel trim and screw it in place.


Frank

[GuyOReilly]

Excellent!
When I fly, if I see a needle in the red, I start to worry...

[Frank v B]

Photo 26- Cockpit instrumentation in place, including the brainwave indicator (red)
Photo 27- Cockpit canopy joint outlines in place, screwed in place.  The overall look.  Fine for the 50 foot test.
Photo 28- Close-up of the canopy.

Next: the interplane struts.

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

Good job @Frank v B , the plane looks AWSOME!!   
But, who will fly the plane?  It has no pilot inside...