Min-E-Chili Breeze 30" span...rocket!

[Frank v B]

Glueing the fuse together.

Here are the steps I use:

1) draw a datum line on the building board- used a pen on my drywall building board. Photo 99.
2) mark the centreline at the base of several formers. Photo 00
3) pin the formers to the building board on the centreline.  Photo 01.
4) Glue the second side to the formers and pin it in place on the formers.  Note: I did not pinch the back end yet.  Pinned the first half in place where it ended up and matched the distance from the centreline on the second side.  Note the rubber band on the front to pinch it together.  Photo 04.
5) let the glue dry.

I learned never to glue fuselage sides together without pinning it down.  It was a banana.  It happens because of different densities of wood, amount of glue, bad luck,
Andy's hex, balsa revenge, etc.   

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

Da Fuse!
Cut the fuse out of 3/32 balsa.  Yes, Guy, a port and starboard side....I triple-checked.

Good to know, unfortunately, you will not have 2 planes...

[Frank v B]

Guy,  two fuses need two wings or I still only have one airplane.

Pinched the back end together.  Added the top outline and the turtle deck formers.

F.

[Frank v B]

How to make a vented firewall for an in-runner* motor.

step 1- take a random piece of plywood larger than the fuse cross section.
step 2- drill a hole in the middle for the shaft and measure the mounting hole centres.  Drill all 3 holes out.  Photo 43
step 3- mark the 4 vent holes on the perimeter of the motor housing- I used a pencil.  Mount the motor to the firewall and mark the hole locations on the back of the firewall. Photo 44
step 4- connect the dots with a pencil to get an "X".  Photo 44
step 5- measure the holes from the shaft and mark the X in that location.
step 6- find a drill bit the diameter of the event holes and drill through.  I used a drill press. Photo 45

Finito!

Last photo (49) shows the motor and firewall glued to the fuse with 5 minute epoxy (what else!).  Once dry, trim off the excess plywood.  I use a razor saw and a sanding block.  Takes 5 minutes.

Frank

* an in-runner is one that has a permanent magnet shaft and electro magnets on the outside housing.  Most motors we use are out runners with a spinning bell containing the permanent magnets.

[Frank v B]

Covering


Covered the wing in yellow at the covering seminar at Mark's place.
Covered the fuselage in red to match the first photo.  The photo on this post shows the first job was to cover the nose.  The second job was to cover the corners of the hatch.

The second photo shows the alignment of the stab while the glue was drying.  The toothpick is to help align it with the wing.  I push the toothpick into the fuselage until the stab is aligned with the wing when looking down from the firewall.

Note- the covering has not been shrunk yet, otherwise it would peel back when the center portion is cut out so the glue will adhere to it.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Hinging

step 1- cut the corners of each hinge so it easily pushes into the slots. Photo 21
step 2- put a pin in the middle of each hinge so it is guaranteed half goes into the wing and half into the aileron.  Photo 22
step 3- apply glue.  Most people use thin CA.  I cannot because my wife is allergic to CA*.  I use hinge glue which is looks like a watery carpenters glue.  CA glue is dripped on with the aileron in place.  This glue needs to be applied to the hinge, then slipped into the slots. Photo 26
step 4- make sure you tape the aileron in place so it does not move when the glue is applied (CA) or has to dry (hinge glue). Photo 25

Frank

* no problem.  The choice is either get rid of CA or get rid of model airplanes.  Easy decision.  "Yes dear"   

[GuyOReilly]

It must have been a rainy day in Toronto.
Great progress on your little rocket of  plane.
Guy

[Frank v B]

Installing the fin/rudder....straight!

I use a triangle with the corner cut off so it automatically holds the fin at 90 degrees to the stabilizer while the glue dries.

Also installed the aileron servo.  An HS 55.

Frank

ps: this photo was taken so Andy could mine the background.  Yes, my work desk looks like the back of my car.

[Frank v B]

Done!

Looks like the plane in the first post.
Still have to connect the servos/pushrods/control horns and install the radio but the building is done.

Will post the weight when everything is done and the plane is ready for its maiden.

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

Nice looking plane!
Looks fast just sitting there.

[Frank v B]

Maidened it on Monday.  It flew but made mostly noise and underwhelming speed-wise.
Also, ran out of trims so a little tough to fly.

Tried it again today.  It was a whole new airplane.

Increased some throws (aileron and elevator), decreased the rudder throw, moved the battery back an inch (max. possible) and changed the prop from a 6x3 (GWS-like) to a 6X4 (APC).
Very quick and flyable but the ESC got hot.  Will change the prop to a 5x5APC which is what I usually use with this motor (E-Flite inrunner- series 6- 34 amps).
Will probably be quicker* because it hits the motor's sweet spot.

Thanks to Simon Chapman for the hail-mary launch.

Frank

* increasing the pitch gives speed.  Racing props are "square" which means pitch is equal to diameter.  EF-Racing props are 8x8, Nooner racing props on high KV motors are 4.1x4.1.

[Frank v B]

Received these photos from Andy. 
He always takes great shots...and photos as well  ... but hardly ever posts them.
These are his photos.
Vadim did the launch.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Changed the prop from a 6x4 APC to a 5x5 APC. 
Flew it yesterday.  Wow!! what a difference.

The speed is now just below a Nooner.  That is quick.

Very flyable.  Neat project.

Frank

[msatin]

It flew great Frank - Congrats!