Box Fly 20- electric build

[Frank v B]

How I align the wing and tail feathers.

Approach:
Step 1:  attach the wing to the fuse.  Measure from each wingtip to the back of the fuse.  Make sure both distances are equal. Mark the centre line.
- drill the wing for the bolt (I used two).  Drilled into the fuse's ply plate and tapped it for two 12-24 nylon bolts.
- adjust the wing saddle until the fuse sits upright on the wing.
Step 2:  slip the stab/elevator in place.  Measure that it is in the centre (equal sized stab on either side of the fuse) and from the stab tips to a point in the centre of the fuse (I used the cockpit front panel). Remove the covering from the centre of the stab top and bottom (photo 162) so the glue joint is balsa to balsa and not Monokote. Note photo 163- I slipped a toothpick between the stab and fuse to align it with the wing. (eyeball measurement, green arrow photo 163)
Step 3: install the fin/rudder 90 degrees to the stab.  I actually tape a right angle triangle to hold it while the glue dries.

Trick- when a fuse pinches into a point at the back, I slide the stab backwards in the slot about 1/4" (green arrow photo 161) and cut the covering with a sharp #11 blade on both sides of the fuse, top and bottom.  This is so that when it is finally glued in, the fuse sides will completely cover the edge of the covering (top and bottom).

The fin/rudder happens tomorrow.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Setting the fin at a perfect 90 degrees.

Here's how I do it. 

I have a plastic triangle and cut off the 90 degree corner to clear the fuselage. Photo 165  It is taped to the fin and the stab and guarantees a 90 degree fin placement. Photos 166 and 167.
This triangle has been used for 20 years and about 80 planes. 
A great investment.

Letting it cure overnight.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Houston- we have a problem

This kit supplies 2 types of rudders (photo 174 compares them):
1) the DR1 type circular fin with the semi circular rudder (the one I picked)
2) a more normal fin and rudder.  See photo of the two rudders.  photo 174, 176

I picked the circular one because this rudder has area below the stabilizer so I can easily add a tail wheel and tiller.  This plane is a tail dragger

Two problems
- the rudder hole to clear the elevator was too high (photo 171).  I cut the bottom of the hole deeper, inverted the cut-out piece and attached it to the top of the hole (Photo 172)
- the rudder extends about an inch below the fuselage.  Once the rudder patch dries, I will trim the bottom of the rudder in line with the bottom of the fuse.

Frank

[Frank v B]

photos of the tail wheel bearing and the rudder in place.
Second photo shows how much was trimmed off the rudder.

Frank

[Frank v B]

The landing gear.
This is a (n ab) used Apprentice main gear.  Cut out 3 pieces of good ply (not lite ply) and am sandwiching the wire between 3 layers.  It then slips into the slot just ahead of the leading edge of the wing. The glue is drying now on the first sandwich layer.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Finished

Final assembly, control horns installed, pushrods, landing gear, servos connected.
The landing gear block was glued and finished and fit perfectly in the slot.  Glued in place with 5 minute epoxy (what else!)
Oops, pilot installed in the cockpit.

Looks great.  It feels like it will be a joy to fly.

Frank

[GuyOReilly]

Looks great; should fly great too!