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Recent Posts

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1
Guy,
They are 6" props so they may fit.  I'll take buy them from you.  Even if it is just for the official photograph that Andy will take before the first flight.
I'll do a reading on them.  The motors max out at 7 amps.
Thanks for the offer.
Frank
ps, They are counter-rotating too.
Frank;
1- They are free. Let me know when you want to pick them up or how we can proceed wit the exchange (I might not be able to get to the field this or next week.)
2- Hopefully they will fit for flight and will look great for the official photos by @Andy Hoffer
3- The diameter is 6 inches, I measured them.  I do not know the pitch.
4- One is right the other left - just make sure the prop-nut does not come loose - guess how I found out about that one...
Have a great day!
2
Guy,

They are 6" props so they may fit.  I'll take buy them from you.  Even if it is just for the official photograph that Andy will take before the first flight.
I'll do a reading on them.  The motors max out at 7 amps.

Thanks for the offer.

Frank

ps, They are counter-rotating too.
3
Andy,

re; your "...with complete background paper coverage to banish the supporting washing machine...."

I went out to Dollarama last week to buy two sheets of white Bristol Board as background for these photos... just to keep you quiet. :)


Frank
4
Beautiful @Frank v B  (the build, I mean)!  And I fully appreciate your extra effort with complete background paper coverage to banish the supporting washing machine to the dark recesses of one's imagination.

Bravo Yousuf!

Andy
5
@Frank v B please let me know if you would like to have these 2 propellers for your DC3.
No painting required.
6
The bones are coming together.

Photo 3312- the motor inside the nacelle and glued onto the wing, the aileron servo glued into the wing, the ESC will stay on top of the wing inside the fuse.  The hole in the front nacelle former was drawn around a Toonie.
Photo 3313- Only working on the starboard wing. 
Photo 3314 - The photo shows how much I moved the nacelle outboard.  The nacelle is designed to be in the middle of the two ribs.  The prop clearance is now about 7".  More than enough since a 6" prop is the maximum on 3 cells. 
Also note:
- the out-thrust in the motor.  About 2 degrees (never measured it.  It's "just enough").   Andy will probably calculate it to 10 decimal places.
- the dental floss and drop of glue on the servo extension where it joins the servo lead.  To make sure it does not disconnect.
- the yellow on the trailing edge dihedral joint.  It is 5 minute epoxy with fibreglass cloth for strength.  All 4 joints were treated that way (two leading edges, 2 trailing edges)
- the notch in the trailing edge in the middle.  That is how much I shifted the trailing edge backwards to increase the wing area (reduce wing loading).
Photo 3315- The servo tray is hard 3/32 balsa.  Its main purpose is the act as a cross-brace since I cut the bottom out of two of the formers.  The servos are Hitec HS55's.

Frank
7
Trading Post / Re: NIB Electrifly Rifle
« Last post by pmackenzie on Yesterday at 08:37:38 PM »
I saw Ed fly his Rifle at the COGG field one day (while he still lived down this way). Very aptly named model!
I don't know what he had for power but it was very fast.
I do recall that a lot of guys on RCG put more power than stock in them, and promptly folded them.
8
Trading Post / Re: NIB Electrifly Rifle
« Last post by Frank v B on Yesterday at 01:21:15 PM »
A little context re: Ben's "I disagree with Frank..."

Ben is one of the two Kilowatt Brothers at TEMAC*.  For them, anything less than a kilowatt per pound* is called "idling". :D :D

Frank

* the other is Ed McMann (Ededge) who moved to Ottawa.
** my set-up was a whopping 250 watts per pound.... or, insane for normal people. ;)

9
Trading Post / Re: NIB Electrifly Rifle
« Last post by bfeist on Yesterday at 11:43:03 AM »
I disagree with Frank...

Good luck with the sale!
10
Wing wigglers.

Those of you who have read my build/repair posts before know that I first build/repair  the model correctly (true, straight, etc.) and then later add the strength.  Same here.  I am adding all required elements first (aileron servos, ESCs, motors, landing gear) on one side.  If everything seems OK., I copy all the elements onto the second side then I go around and strengthen all joints, holes and mistakes.

The first assignment is the aileron servo.  I rejected cables (sloppy) and torque rods (difficult to fit into a small, thin wing). 

The first set of matched servos did not fit (GWS Nano).  Opted for the really tiny Bluebird 303.  How tiny are they... see photo of two servos next to a quarter.  They are good servos but they have one nasty habit.  The cases are not screwed together.  They are friction fit and come apart.  That's why the dental floss and one drop of CA.  Standard practice.

More than enough space in the wing (see photo).  Will have the full servo horn exposed for easy adjustment.

The motor and esc are next.

Frank

Hi @Frank v B ,

Elegant technique.  I take it the servo on the left "wiggles" more than the one on the right, hence the need for a whole spool of dental floss to bind the left one versus just a couple of loops on the right one!   8)

Andy

Andy
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