BUSA Dr-1 1/4 Scale

piker · March 20, 2013, 10:57:52 AM

What's the plan? Paint , then apply the vinyl, then dull coat?

Gregor77 · March 20, 2013, 11:15:37 AM

I am going to paint the model light blue using Tamiya paint. Mask the white boxes, paint them white, then mask them up again, paint the model light blue all over. Then once dry, mix up a arcylic (Thinned) dark green / med green and brown and use an old 1" brush and do the streaked paint. Once that is dry, add the decals., Get the airbrush out and add some weathering here and there. Then dull coat it with a light coat from Kyrlon. Just light misting around the decals to lock them down and reduce the glare. The nose will be dark green as for the wheels.

Once that is done, it should be good. You past question on the covering of the sides. The instructions said not to press it again the sides that bulk out. They said just have it attach to the high point and let the rest stretch over it and not against it. If that makes sense. You can see it on the images of the real Fokkers.

sihinch · March 20, 2013, 11:33:58 AM

I'm absolutely sure it will look amazing when you've finished it.

Gregor77 · March 21, 2013, 08:42:21 AM

Lower wing is now covered. Tonight is going to be the Mid wing. I guess until the servo's are installing the top wing will have to wait and the fuse. It's nice to see it almost done.. The detailing is the best part.

Gregor77 · June 23, 2014, 11:47:10 AM

Well, back to this one again!

Gregor77 · June 23, 2014, 11:51:51 AM

So after we flew all the big planes last week, it gave me some energy to head back in the basement and bring the DR-1 back up to the front line. I ran out of steam when it came to installing the control surfaces and left the pull pull system wires hanging all over the place. I glued in the elevator and made sure everything was level and true. Measured and re-measured! I was always a bit worried about the thrust angle and it ended up being rather easy to mount the motor as the H9 Blue nose electric motor stand offs fit perfectly. So the install only was a matter of lining up the markings and drilling some holes. With that all done, I assembled the plane to make sure it didn't warp after stilling for a year or two. It seemed find and looks good. I just need to install the ESC / SBEC and make a battery tray for inside the cowl. The fun part will be painting this one.

piker · June 23, 2014, 11:55:24 AM

It's great to see, Greg!

I bet you're thinking... why didn't I do this a year ago. So easy!

Gregor77 · June 23, 2014, 02:50:08 PM

I got side tracked... lol! Here is one!

I have two mid wing screws where the guns generally mount.

How to I attach the machine guns?

1) Build a plate, mount the two guns and make a lip that the plate slides into and then use magnets to lock them down?

2) ? Any suggestions?

piker · June 23, 2014, 03:33:53 PM

Hard to picture exactly.

What do the plans/instructions suggest. The Balsa USA instructions are usually pretty complete. Don't they offer a method for this?

Gregor77 · June 23, 2014, 03:51:45 PM

This is where the instructions say "This is the time to add some scale details, but remember the more you add effects the flight characteristics of the model".. lol!

Gregor77 · June 30, 2014, 10:20:59 AM

I am getting closer to completion. What paints did you guys use or are planning to use on the solartex. I have seen some poor examples online and the plane that is at PIN right now. I was planning on using light blue from Tamiya spray as a base and then a watered down acrylic from HD. Apparently BEHR ultra premium acrylic in statin is a good product. I really need It for the camo type stripes.

Papa · June 30, 2014, 10:47:51 AM

from all I've read you need to give the solartex a tooth with 0000 wire wool or 600 - 800 grit emory.

If you use acrylic I would consider a flat clear coat if you plan on attaching decals.

Jack.

Gregor77 · June 30, 2014, 01:21:01 PM

Good suggestions, Yes, I a putting Cali decals on it when I am done.

Tomahawk · June 30, 2014, 01:42:03 PM

Quote from: Papa on June 30, 2014, 10:47:51 AM
from all I've read you need to give the solartex a tooth with 0000 wire wool or 600 - 800 grit emory.

If you use acrylic I would consider a flat clear coat if you plan on attaching decals.

Jack.

I covered my Vintage oldtimer in yellow solartex and used red paint for plastic out of the rattle can. The only surface prep I did was to go over the areas to be painted with rubbing alcohol to make sure the surface was absolutely oil free. Solartex takes paint well.

Chris

Gregor77 · July 08, 2014, 11:38:14 AM

So far the lower wing is painted. It took 3 can of Tamiya paint.. we are estimating about 10 cans to do the whole thing. Not cost efficient, but looks the part.

The camo will be a whole different challenge once the base colour is applied. I will need a template for this one to practice on.