BUSA Dr-1 1/4 Scale

[Gregor77]

No way!   This is why I play with model planes..   

I have enough stuff to work on!

Ok, so back to the DR-1.... Sanded the leading edge and the lower wing is now done...  What a mess!  But looks good!

I have to now lay out the plans for the mid wing.  It is a funny process of splicing the plans together to make the mid and upper wing.   I am also going to need a sheet of drywall to underlay the plans.  The foam is not holding the pins very well.

The process is moving along well... I can get two hrs a night to work on it!

[Gregor77]

I got stuck with the "honey do" list last night and a "Can we go for a cruise" command.  So I could not go to training last night.. ;o(  I kept trying to drive by, but got a stern look each time..

But, I did have a few mins to slip out and see "Victor" at the Seaton Fly Club at 4:30.  I was told that he had a Balsa USA Triplane that was completed this winter / spring.  I didn't have a chance to see it fly, but man he did a great job building it! 

He was very helpful and answered lots of my questions.  It looks like I might have some issues with battery location on the plane and will have to be creative as the batts needs to sit up the nose for C/G.  The overall size was good and can allow me to be creative in other aspects. 

He did mention to make the stab adjustable as he had lots of down to keep the plane level in flight.  This is a known issue with the kit.

Enjoy the images!   Hopefully I can get mine framed up before the winter and can spend the rest of the winter detailing it.  I started the center wing, it's moving faster after doing the lower wing.  I can't wait to do the fuse... that will be fun!

[Papa]

If you use LiFe batteries you can arrange them in a ring under the cowl.

Jack.

[Gregor77]

I like the suggestion of the LIFe batteries.  I have a bunch of 5S, 4000's that I am going to use.  I spoke Dave from PIN and he suggested making a battery box in the nose cone.  There is lots of room there and I can make it slip under the cowl and make a small lockable box.   I will also add a connector for safety, not sure what it is called, just it cuts the circute so the ESC will not be armed.  I am also going to run a sep battery for the ESC to be safe.   I might even go with some even bigger batteries.  Maybe 2 5S 5000?  10S is going to be overkill like the pup.  But I should get some overscale performance if I need it.   

I also ordered the two Spandau machine gund and a sound module.  ;o)

[bfeist]

The 6S A123 pack I have posted for sale would probably fit in that nose nicely

[Gregor77]

Middle wing is moving faster than expected... but getting side tracked with other planes.. lol!

[wollins]

I will also add a connector for safety, not sure what it is called, just it cuts the circute so the ESC will not be armed.

You mean a shunt switch?    Good plan ... I use a shunt on all my big planes.  Don't want all that power going off on your bodyparts.    In a plane such as yours (where the packs will be close to the "big blade") it is an absolute necessity IMHO.  The cool thing about this setup is that the receiver is powered up and everythng its only your motor that's disabled until you "arm" it.  So you can check your control surfaces etc without the plane being armed. 

Colin   

[Gregor77]

That is the one.. I was going to make a panel near the pilot to be able to do all that...  Thanks for the images.

[piker]

Lookin' good, Greg.

I'm back in town now and hoping to get back to building, but I do need to do some "flying model" maintanance before the TEMAC FF on the weekend.

What's that sound module you're talking about.  Any that's I've seen in the past have added several pounds to the weight of the aircraft. Not worth it in my opinion.  Is there a better version now?

Robert

[bfeist]

I will also add a connector for safety, not sure what it is called, just it cuts the circute so the ESC will not be armed.

You mean a shunt switch?    Good plan ... I use a shunt on all my big planes.  Don't want all that power going off on your bodyparts.    In a plane such as yours (where the packs will be close to the "big blade") it is an absolute necessity IMHO.  The cool thing about this setup is that the receiver is powered up and everythng its only your motor that's disabled until you "arm" it.  So you can check your control surfaces etc without the plane being armed. 

Colin   

Colin,
Does that connector just disconnect the positive ESC wire, or is it more complex? Have you ever used bullet-type setup for that that can handle higher current?

Ben

[Tomahawk]

I will also add a connector for safety, not sure what it is called, just it cuts the circute so the ESC will not be armed.

You mean a shunt switch?    Good plan ... I use a shunt on all my big planes.  Don't want all that power going off on your bodyparts.    In a plane such as yours (where the packs will be close to the "big blade") it is an absolute necessity IMHO.  The cool thing about this setup is that the receiver is powered up and everythng its only your motor that's disabled until you "arm" it.  So you can check your control surfaces etc without the plane being armed. 

Colin   

Colin,
Does that connector just disconnect the positive ESC wire, or is it more complex? Have you ever used bullet-type setup for that that can handle higher current?

Ben

Ben,  If I need a shunt.  I usually put a bullet connector on the positive (+ red) wire from the battery to the esc. So far I have never mounted one on the outside.  I  locate the bullet near a quick access hatch.  If the battery plug is close to the quick hatch I won't bother with the shunt.

Chris

[wollins]

I will also add a connector for safety, not sure what it is called, just it cuts the circute so the ESC will not be armed.

You mean a shunt switch?    Good plan ... I use a shunt on all my big planes.  Don't want all that power going off on your bodyparts.    In a plane such as yours (where the packs will be close to the "big blade") it is an absolute necessity IMHO.  The cool thing about this setup is that the receiver is powered up and everythng its only your motor that's disabled until you "arm" it.  So you can check your control surfaces etc without the plane being armed. 

Colin   

Colin,
Does that connector just disconnect the positive ESC wire, or is it more complex? Have you ever used bullet-type setup for that that can handle higher current?

Ben

Ben it is as simple as that.  Like Chris my "break" in the circuit is on the positive battery lead of the esc.  However I connect my BEC before the "break" so that this way when I connect my pack it powers my receiver (via my BEC) but not the motor so that I can check control surfaces etc without arming the business end. No I haven't used bullets in this situation (or any other for that matter) as I really like Sermos and I use their higher amp ones.

Colin     

[Gregor77]

Due to the weather last night, I kept going on the mid wing.

Just going to side track a bit...

Rigging.  I have a plane that is rather semi scale and due to the round built up fuse, I have to take the wing off to install the battery.   It also has lots of rigging.  I was using thin metal wire.   Is there something that I can build that I can un-hook the wires to take the wing off when needed?  I was thinking of some Sulivan parts and a hook method.  All the wires are metal and someone "Jack" said to get some bungee type wire from Michaels.  But it doesn't look right... ;o(

I just wish my decals would show up before the event!

[Gregor77]

What can I use or where can I get very thin aluminum sheeting?  I need to make the side panels for the engine compartment. 

[Gregor77]

I got back to building this one after getting an N28c.   I am 80% into the mid wing.  I just have to do the tips and sand the leading edge.

The N28C on another note needs the fuse built.  So not too bad overall.

Both planes will be electric.