CF-18 Hornet build

[Tom M.]

  Just got a new super-duper phone and so started taking pictures of this process. I got the kit from KMP several years ago for 1/2 the price they're asking now.
http://www.kmp.ca/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=134&osCsid=38197767d33a0abd37b10b99b17fb67d
The model was released around 2005, sort of designed for twin 70 mm fans, or more likely as a pusher. I've only found one old build thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551569&highlight=haoye+f+18   Not much in the thread is useful, except that the thing flys so that's good to know.
Target weight is less than 9 lbs., though I'm just guessing at this point but will endeavor to keep it light. To that end I chose a fairly "hot" single 90mm 8 cell setup, the testing of which I posted about recently:     http://temac.ca/smf/index.php/topic,4254.0.html
  Making intake and exhaust ducting will be challenging- I'm making foam plugs, rhen applying glass/epoxy. This first required placing the fan, making reinforcements for the wing tubes and deciding on a spot for the ESC. Oh- and reshaping the intakes. That's done, and I've begun roughing out the intake plug. I'll keep y'all posted on progress- slow- as  their's lots of head-scratching involved.
Tom

[Tom M.]

 Almost forgot about the front half of the airplane with dinner looming! A network of foam braces that filled the lower half of the fuse were removed and the inside of both upper and lower were glassed prior to joining. CF tubing was run and bonded in to also help stiffen the structure. These tubes will also provide a base for the battery and radio trays. A bungee hook imbedded in hardwood is installed (hopefully in the right spot) and NACA ducts (from ParkFlyer plastics) are in place, top and bottom, to get some air moving through the fuse. A duct between the intakes allows this air to exit- I've also bored a bunch of holes in the  bulkheads (with sharpened tubing) behind the cockpit to help this happen. I hope the photos show what I mean.
  Tom

[bfeist]

Very interesting. Nice to see a very custom foam construction. So many foam planes are BNF.

[sihinch]

Looks like a complex build, Tom, but I have no doubt it will look and fly amazing when you're done.

Thanks so much for sharing your progress on the TEMAC forum.  Please do keep us updated with how it's going.

And I promise to try to get my Phantom done, so maybe we can fly them at the same time! 

[Wingnutz]

Tom,
Good thing you have a healthy head of hair...that head scratching you're talking about would cause even more of mine to disappear!
Good luck with "the Bug" ...fascinating build!
Have ordered another fan/motor for my Sabre and a replacement fan for the old motor unit. I am planning to put a screen over the cheater hole to curb the model's appetite for bungee rope...
Cheers!

[Tom M.]

  Thanks for the replies you three and I'm sorry not to have responded sooner ; life... Simon, we could have your Rhino, Bill's Sword, my Bug and who knows what else flying together! Oh, think of the mid-air possibilities! Bill- again I'm sorry that happened- who knew? It's got me wondering though about this model and it's intake position (s). Not hitting the throttle until the airplane is off the bungee would avoid the possibility of it eating the cords, but then I suppose you'd want more launching force. Maybe, as a compromise, half throttle then going to full after launch will be safe. Just thinking out loud...
  Made a bit of progress over the Turkey Day weekend and got the intake ducting made, using the "lost foam" method. After the foam plug was shaped it was wrapped in (red) packing tape (avoiding wrinkles). Epoxy won't stick to it and the tape gives the epoxy a nice smooth finish on the inside. I applied 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth and another layer of strips on the flat surfaces using West epoxy. When cured, acetone was poured into the mold to dissolve the foam, and then the tape was pulled out and the ducting trimmed and fitted. Still have to do the cut-out for the ESC- the ply frame for this is shown sitting there in the photo.
  I got a couple of orders in the mail recently for this build- products I've been looking at for years and finally decided to try. The first is Fliteskin, .010" glass/epoxy sheeting I'll be applying to the flying surfaces instead of cloth/resin- huge time savings with a better result (I hope).  http://www.fliteskin.com/Sheeting.htm
  Next is "Liquid sheeting 2" from Wowplanes, a 2-part coating pioneered for use with foam models by a good guy in Florida. Again, a real time saver on the curvey bits where strength isn't paramount. I'll still be using glass/cloth where it is- like the belly- but I'm hoping to avoid the tedium and endless sanding of using cloth/resin overall.
   http://www.wowplanes.com/product_info.php?products_id=130
Last is purely for bling, a couple of those afterburner LED rings:    http://shop.rc-electric-jets.com/Lighting-Systems_c37.htm
I watched the F-18 at the Brantford Airshow performing in Aug. and if he can have re-heat then I want it too.
  Tom

[sihinch]

Nice progress Tom.

I have some of the wow planes liquid sheeting but haven't used it yet. I was planning on using it for my FlyFly Phantom.  Is it easy to use (without making it look crap)?

[Tom M.]

  Don't know Simon as I haven't used it yet, but if we follow the directions I think we'll be fine. The stuff is actually from here:
http://www.industrialpolymers.com/product-list/styrospray-product-list/styrospray/
Seems that temp and humidity are important when applying.
  Tom

[Wingnutz]

Tom,
Love reading your posts! Not only do I usually learn something and get inspired in the process, but also usually enjoy a chuckle at your sense of humour!
I'm trying to decide on an EDF project for the winter without duplicating what Simon or you are doing and with some Canadian content and which lends itself to bungee launching or can take from grass without wheels...lots of those around!
I have two Avro Arrows, one the HK composite (already bifurcated) and a bigger foam kit...I think I'll do one or both of those...the big one would probably involve more bifurcating(sounds deliciously naughty!)...I think you explained the word when I was visiting...aren't you glad you did?
The other EDF I might try is less mainstream. I've done a bit of float flying this summer with an EDF powered Polaris (Quantock mod) and much to my surprise it worked well as a floatplane(flying boat actually).
I've always been fascinated with the Martin Seamaster...multi-engine cold war jet flying boat and the Handley Page Sea Victor (fantasy version of the Handley Page Victor) and may try to build a twin engine EDF powered flying boat by combining features from the two cold war jets and the Polaris model. If it works, the next step would be a serious EDF powered Sea Master or Sea Victor...
So many projects...so little time!

[Ededge2002]

Tom very nice work on the ducting.  I can imagine the time and effort required to measure and make the foam plug just to dissolve it away!  The result though is very nice and I commend you for your patience.  Im not into EDF's but its nice to see the steps involved in this conversion/project.  Please keep up the pictures we are all watching

[Tom M.]

 Bill, your post made me smile- I think an EDF seaplane (scale or fantasy) would be so cool. If you can come down next summer, there's lots of flyable water hereabouts...
Thankyou for the kind words Ed- I hadn't tried this before and it was actually pretty easy. I've inadvertently melted foam before- oops, wrong glue, wrong paint, wrong move with a soldering iron- you know. Doing it on purpose is... better! And, I've got more acetone waiting for the exhaust ducting. Getting the ESC installed in the intake ducting (with access through the top of the fuse) is this weekend's project.
The photo is our Shila biting off Carolyn's face- I told her not to tease the dog...
  Tom

[Tom M.]

  A furthur 12 hrs. of pondering for maybe 3 hrs. accomplished, but at least some progress! The ESC is mounted onto the ducting with the cooling fins protruding a bit into the duct; the capacitors are also in the airflow- the ESC was getting warm during earlier testing so I'm sure hoping this solution will be the solution. I'm doing a lot of hoping on this project.  Putting the ESC in the exhaust duct was also considered but CG issues (though that's an unknown at this point, really) and the need for much longer leads to the batteries had me go this route.
  An access hatch was cut for the ESC on the fuse top but this little compartment may prove useful for other equipment as well .
  The biggest deal of the weekend was commiting to glueing in all the parts I've made and had wobbling around for weeks- the fan mounting plates, wing tube supports, ducting etc. are in there for good now, with Gorilla glue. "Till next time 
  Tom

[Tom M.]

 A bit more done to the Bug. The exhaust ducting is finished using the same "lost foam" method as the intake but using less glass as it needn't be as strong. The exit area, for the 2 nozzles, is about 85% FSA which will hopefully not be too inefficient, which apparently bifurcated exhausts can be. I did some research, kept the curves as smooth as possible with attention to the changing shapes and so will hope for the best. I'm tempted to strap the fuse to the test sled and see what I've got re: thrust but the intake lips should be reinforced (glassed) first so that'll have to wait.
  Incidentally, the tailpipes are clear acrylic as the afterburner light rings fit over them. Unfortunetly I haven't as yet got them to work, and may not be able to- this is about the 3rd product from RC Lander I've had hassles with- never again.
The last photos are of the all-moving elevator pivot, a titanium rod I had lying around rotating in maple blocks. Eflite steering arms (along with tubing) will be bonded into the flying surfaces . allowing them to be removeable. This enables removal of the pivot rod, which passes through the ducting, and so the ducting can then also be removed. I like things removeable  )
   Tom

[Tom M.]

 The speedbrake is cut out, and I think the hinging will be similar to the all-flying stabs.
  Tom

[Tom M.]

 I decided to take a bit of a chance today and tape the fuse halves together and run 'er up on the test sled to see the thrust numbers. My concern was that the bottom half of the intake ducting might collapse, not yet being glued into the fuse, but all was well. Thrust peaked at 7 lbs. 12 oz., 8 0z. less than the previous (non-ducted) test, so not too bad. The ESC seems to be staying cooler than before with the heatsink exposed in the inlet, and the exhaust ducting didn't explode, another concern as it's built quite light. 
  Tom