Skywriter 2014 Build Class

[Papa]

Looking good Kevin. Nice straight and clean work.

Jack.

[Papa]

I mentioned I was going to build the lower wing as one wing and cut it later to build in the dihedral. To make this easy I wanted to have a complete plan. I started with the printed plan on one side of my board and added some blank paper for the second half of the wing. I used Banner Paper from Staples.

I measured the distance from the centre line to the outside of the wing tip rib and transfered it to my blank paper. I then extended all the spar lines etc.

I got a piece of card stock, lined it up with the centre line and marked the location of all the ribs. I flipped it and starting at the centre marked all the rib locations at the LE and then at the TE on my plan. I then connected the dots and I had all the major locations I need to build a single piece wing.

Jack.

[bfeist]

Very helpful, Jack. Thanks for posting that, I was wondering how I was going to manage that.

[bfeist]

I'm finally making a start and have already run into a problem. I guess this comes down to just how much I should be trusting the CNC cuts. Are these just rough shapes? The balsa laser-cut rudder is the wrong shape. The cut parts cover the vertical 1/2" x 1/4" structural piece in the plan. This doesn't seem to have tripped anyone else up. Am I being overly sensitive? I'll just get the saw out and get on with it.


Ben

[Papa]

That's not a 1/2" x 1/4" piece. It's two 1/2" x 3/32" one on either side of the rudder. They help to lock the rudder pieces together.

Jack.

[bfeist]

That's not a 1/2" x 1/4" piece. It's two 1/2" x 3/32" one on either side of the rudder. They help to lock the rudder pieces together.

Jack.

Well that explains it. How should I be reading these plans in order to know that?

[Papa]

Well that explains it. How should I be reading these plans in order to know that?

Hi Ben Sorry to take so long to respond. I have attached a PDF that shows where the information was but it is not very clear and you have to work out things for yourself. It requires a lot of "imagineering" and building in your mind.

Jack.

[bfeist]

Well that explains it. How should I be reading these plans in order to know that?

Hi Ben Sorry to take so long to respond. I have attached a PDF that shows where the information was but it is not very clear and you have to work out things for yourself. It requires a lot of "imagineering" and building in your mind.

Jack.

Thanks Jack. Wow! Somehow I had convinced myself that that was a picture of the stab in position. But of course it isn't. I guess it's pretty clear I didn't attend engineering school.


Ben

[Papa]

Neither did I so we're both in the same boat. many of these plans are designed for "experienced builders" but it's a catch-22. How do you become experienced? You just have to bash on. I find that reading the blog and the 8 page magazine article with the plan in front of me helps me visualize my next steps. Then I visualize building that piece and see if I encounter any problems and make sure I have all the tools I need.

Jack.

[sihinch]

I've been finding that the best way for me to visualize the errors I am making is to start building and then realize you've gone wrong! It's great for teaching you how to correct things and overcome mistakes!

[Wingnutz]

Looking for a piece of hardwood approx 2x1x3 inches so I can fabricate one of Jack's "groovy" sanding blocks with a groove 1/4-9/32" across. Please LMK if you have something.

[Wingnutz]

See you tonight

[sihinch]

Another awesome class tonight! Thanks so much Jack and Frank.

And also thanks to Ben for the build manual/memento!

I find the sessions so interesting and informative but most importantly this building lark is so much fun!

I will post notes and photos tomorrow (hopefully).

I can't wait until next week!

[sihinch]

So here are the notes from last night;

Recommend HS65 or similar for aileron servos.
Suggest add an extra rib at the middle of each wing, where they join.
Frank used 5/16 for trailing edge and 1/2 x 1/4 for leading edge.
Don't forget to add the 1/4 x 1/4 second spar under the ribs before you build - but line ribs up to main spar and TE.
L shaped aluminium 3/4 x 1/2 from Lowes for strut attach point.
If wood is bowed make sure you oppose the bow with the symmetrical piece - to form either concave or convex structure. Never parallel.
You can lick bowed wood - see picture of Frank!
Wing tips should be on center line of last rib, not flat bottomed.

Hope this helps and jogs memories!

[Papa]

Very good.


I added two ribs in the centre from soft 1/8" balsa.
Don't forget to add openings for the servo leads!


Jack