Top Flite Cessna Skylane Kit build thread

Started by frajolex, January 07, 2015, 05:45:07 PM

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frajolex

Update: Hibbico will send me new die cut parts for the fuselage  8)


I hope I can get this ASAP so I can continue building the plane.


I think the wing is really fine now, I'll keep it out of the weights until tomorrow to check if the warp returns.
Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

frajolex

Okay, I finally had some time to work on the kit again, Hibbico sent me the new fuselage parts, and I was able to build the bottom section yesterday night... overall, I'm quite happy with the results...  according the manual, I should cover this section now before building the upper section.




Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

frajolex

Lower fuselage is covered, I gotta say, this thing hurts... I broke at least 3balsa sheets trying to bend them....
Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

Michael

It really looks good.


Did you wet the balsa sheets, at least on the outside, before bending them?


That usually helps.
Michael

wollins

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Three things are certain ... Death, Taxes and CRASHIN'!

frajolex

Yes, I wet the sheets, but it seems it wasn't enough. I hard a real hard time to sheet the curves, I could not align the pieces at all due to the curves. I gotta get some advices from you guys on how to improve this technique....
Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

frajolex

Guys, question about patching and sanding...

1 which patch /gap filler do you guys use?
2 do usually pre-sand the wood before patching?
Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

battlestu

I use polly filler light and yes i do a bit of sanding before patching. I don't think it matters since you'll need to sand afterwards.
"I'm disrespectful to dirt. Can you see that I am serious?"

Papa

I use this product as I find it the lightest.


http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=136&SubcatID=23


I leave it overnight so it's fully dry.


I only sand down visible high spots first. You have to sand to get it to a final finish anyway.


I find I usually have to come back and do second filling job to get the spots missed the first time around.


Jack.
A motto to live by:
"What other people think of me is none of my business"

wollins

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Three things are certain ... Death, Taxes and CRASHIN'!

piker

That's looking really good, Andre.

I have used the Dap filler in areas where I need to use a lot of the stuff (like my Sandringham repair), but I'm not completely sold by it.  I find it kind of soft and a little difficult to get a nice, smooth, finish with.  For filling on balsa planes, I use Model Magic from the hobby shop.  It's expensive, but when not using much, it last a long time and I find it much better for sanding and more stable.

frajolex

Well, now it really looks like a plane.... As Michael said to me, now the fun begins....

I stopped by pinnacle today and Ron suggested a nice push rod set... Already installed and ready to go...
Andre Albuquerque

Be careful... it's always too close, no matter how far...

Michael

Michael

electroflyer

   Hey Andre,
   That is shaping up real nice!
   For bending balsa sheet, a mixture of Ammonia and warm water is what I have used. Check on line to find a good ratio.
  As for filling joints, my favourite product is Le'pages latex wood filler found at Canadian Tire in the paint section. It comes in different colours and squeezes out of a tube. It goes on smooth, sands nicely and actually has some strength. As with any water based product though, it should be put on in thin coats if filling a large depression as the balsa will act like a sponge.
http://www.lepageproducts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=112

   Glenn
 

Papa

Does this not add extra weight? I have always thought wood filler to be very heavy.


Jack.
A motto to live by:
"What other people think of me is none of my business"