Adrian Page Super Cub

[electroflyer]

   Hi Michael,
  The build is coming along very nicely I see. I have one suggestion, lose the Nyrods and go pull/pull on the rudder and possibly old school square balsa with wire attached at either end for the elevator control.
  I had trouble with vague control on those two control surfaces. I switch the rudder to the pull/pull and gained a lot of rudder authority. The plastic flex issue means that pushing away will ultimately result in bending which reduces the control of the surface.

  Crap, this means I've got another item for my things to do list.   

[Michael]

Thanks, Glenn.


The instructions do call for the stiffest 'nyrods', but those weren't at the hobby store when I went there.


Since I've already started with this, I'll continue to use it. If I detect any flex, I might install a stiff wire inside the inner-flex-rod.


If it becomes a serious problem, I'll change it later.

[wollins]

You are just motoring along on this ... looking really good so far!

Colin.

P.S. What's this ... your fourth build this winter? 

[Michael]

You are just motoring along on this ... looking really good so far!

Colin.

P.S. What's this ... your fourth build this winter? 

Lost count! 

Imagine how much faster it would go if I wouldn't be posting photos and descriptions!

[Michael]

Photos:

61. Balsa doubler tapered to top edge. This was because of my modified/added window. If built as per the plans, this would be unnecessary.

62. Pushrod sleeves trimmed and dowels sanded at fuselage rear.

63. Although not on the plans nor in the instructions, I added corner braces behind the firewall.

64 and 65. The instructions ask for square hardwood sticks under the wing-hold-down-plate and the fuselage sides, and then the rounded doublers. I measured and found that the blind nuts wouldn't fit, so I glued the sticks on the sides of the doublers. See the photos for my solution.

66. A balsa doubler behind the plywood for the wing mount.

67. Front fuselage top sheeted.

[Michael]

Braces (some plywood, some 3/16" square hardwood) glued on the inside of the window-doors, and then sitting in place. These braces are cut and positioned so as to avoid inner frames and former edges. I still have to hinge the window and door, but I'll think about how to do it (the instructions are not as simple as I would prefer), and I'll get to it in a day or so.

There is a small overlap of plywood on the inside lower edge of the folding window, so the lower folding door can hold it shut when closed. I still have to build a door-locking/opening lever.

[Michael]

This a reminder for myself; I still have to make window frames for the top of the fuselage just behind the wing.

[sihinch]

Don't forget to make window frames. Just a reminder.

[Michael]

Thanks Simon, I'm working on it now. 

[Michael]

My wing was built with too much dihedral on one side. Before committing to a fixed position on the fuselage, I test fit it. I can see a little unevenness in the photo, but in person, it's basically not visible, so I'm leaving it as it is.

First I drilled the holes for the wing-hold-down screws using the holes in the wing as guides (the wing was on the fuselage in the right position, so these holes were where they should be). I then enlarged the holes so the blind nuts would fit, pushed those in place, and then pulled them in by screwing the wing on tightly. I added a little water-based 'Express' glue on the edges of the blind nuts to keep them attached.

I built the structure behind the wing on the fuselage as per the instructions with scrap balsa, and used additional scrap to frame my added/modified top window frames.

Still to do:

- stabilizer/elevator
- fin/rudder
- sanding
- more door installation
- wing struts
- cowl

then:

- radio installation
- power system installation
- covering
- assembly
- decoration

[Michael]

Stabilizer and elevator.

The plans and instructions are straight forward, and the work as seen here took less than an hour.

The parts of the front of the stabilizer are sanded to fit a dowel as a leading edge, by using sand-paper wrapped around a dowel. It worked well.

[Michael]

Horizontal tail construction finished.

The first photo shows the parts pinned together so the whole thing (especially the where the curved edges meet) can be sanded evenly. A good idea.

The second shows the completed structure, with elevator balances (the curved tips which overlap the edges of the stabilizer) cut off and glued to the elevators, hinges installed (not glued until later), elevator wire connector installed, and unusually, the trailing edge of the stabilizer beveled (probably easier than beveling the leading edge of the elevator between the elevator balances).

[Michael]

One of the reasons I'm posting about this model construction, is so that this can be a guide to anyone who may build the same kit in the future. (Jack is considering, among other kits,  this as a group build for next season).

If anyone has any questions, or if I'm not clear on any steps in the construction, please feel free to ask in this thread.

[Michael]

Vertical tail (fin and rudder) was easier to construct than the horizontal tail; much of it fit together like a puzzle.

The tail is simply pinned in place in the photo; it won't be glued until after covering.

I'll have to make tapered fairings for the top of the stabilizer at both sides of the fin. There is a laser cut base and front part that ensures everything fits straight.

I used the dowel with sandpaper to make clearance for the elevator connecting wire.

The instructions and plans have a simpler tail wheel suggestion, but the instructions also say a commercial tail wheel can be used. It's easier and looks more scale, so that's what I did. It is not installed permanently yet.

[Michael]

Wing struts - modification

The instructions/plans have a different method of making struts, but since I already have these 1/5 scale struts from another (crashed) model, I'll be making changes to the wings to support these struts. (That was a pun.  )

The main work will be to construct secure areas in the wing to hold the older hardwood mounts.