Frank's 1/2A Taylorcraft build- stick build

[Frank v B]

Why not build another airplane!!  It has been a while.  I was shocked to find I had only 51 RC airplanes* in my shop when last week's photo contest was run.  Need one more to have a stable of aircraft so I can crash one per week and survive a whole year.

This is the 1/2 A Taylorcraft from Micro-X.  38" span, 200 sq inches, and designed for an .049 gas engine.  Bought the kit from Ken Rawlins last year when he was weeding out his shop.

Photo 1- shows the cover of the box
Photo 2- inside the kit.  The ribs and formers are die-cut.  The thicker balsa for the fuse and wing tips are 3/16" balsa and need to be cut out.
Photo 3- the plan on my work table with wax paper over top.

So far have cut out the ribs and fuse parts.  Will start glueing on Sunday since I will be busy with family stuff on the weekend during the day.

The thought is to power it with an Astro geared .010 Mighty Micro bought from Michael several years ago.

Frank

* plus 2 R/C submarines, 2 R/C tugs, 2 R/C sailboats and a 34" PT109 in progress

[Andy Hoffer]

Hi @Frank v B ,

While I fully endorse your decision to round out at your stable at "52", which was a superb vintage year for pilot nativity, I am terribly concerned that the aircraft you have selected is not suited to the anticipated mission.  Attention to the box cover indicates that while this Taylorcraft model performs "loops, spins, stalls, Immelmans and Cuban eights", the capability roster does not include the most important requisite maneuver, i.e. the "Van Beuren", more commonly known as the "face plant", "Post Hole" or "Hot Dogger Auger".

Please consider donating your model to someone who can provide the appropriate care and feeding of this wonderful aircraft, or at a minimum building it out of ballistic sponge rubber.  As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI, @bweaver , to avoid overstressing the airframe.

Most respectfully yours,

Andy Hoffer

[BJROB]

Are your sure @Andy Hoffer 
This plane has sort of a pointy cowling.... good for digging deep into the terra-firma( the earth)
and with the wheel pants that look like plows... this plane cold make some awesome furrows as it skims the surface trying to stay aloft   
It does have a solid    framing that looks like it could take it on any type of landing

[bweaver]

Re - @Frank v B s comment: Why not build another airplane!!  It has been a while.  I was shocked to find I had only 51 RC airplanes* in my shop when last week's photo contest was run.  Need one more to have a stable of aircraft so I can crash one per week and survive a whole year.

Frank, it is unlikely that you can resist yourself to only bring one plane to the field once a week. Having said that, I am glad to see though that you are posting another aircraft building post outlining your construction techniques.  I have learned so much from them...  PS you also need to be considerate of Mayden Fest.

Re - @Andy Hoffer s comment: As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI, @bweaver , to avoid overstressing the airframe.

Overstressing the airframe, nothing - overstressing the CFI, absolutely.

Re - All of @BJROB s comments. You've got the ticket... I am glad to see someone else admires recognizes Franks abilities skills.

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re:"Attention to the box cover indicates that while this Taylorcraft model performs "loops, spins, stalls, Immelmans and Cuban eights""
I noticed a major omission when I took the picture.  Apparently it cannot do straight and level flight.  Neither can I.

re: "As a last resort, you might consider a buddy box master class with our CFI..."
Bruce is so wanting to change the word "Buddy box".  I am sure you can come up with other names.... like "Foe Box"

re: Bruce's "stress" comment.  Enjoy it Mr. CFI!!   My job is to dish it out.  Your job is to take it in stride.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

I think I have a solution which will put @Frank v B  at ease.  If we simply augment his prop spinner with the illustrated appliance, which is covered by a Technical Standard Order (TSO), we can then get the necessary Supplemental Type Certificate (STC) for the plane.  Then Frank can plant at will in full regulatory compliance, and save wear and tear on his props, accruing savings which will allow further aircraft acquisitions and masterful construction blogs. For extra peace of mind @bweaver can supervise the maiden flight as act as Frank's spotter to facilitate recovery.   

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re: " If we simply augment his prop spinner with the illustrated appliance"

That photo is of an ice auger for ice fishermen.  Clearly an implement you use for winter flying.  I don't fly in the winter for two reasons:
1) I am twice as sane than you are....... two times zero is still zero.
2) real farmers don't plant in winter.  A spade would be more useful for me than an ice auger.

Frank

[Frank v B]

Let's build!

Hopefully you will see a few new tricks on the way.

A few decisions before we start gluing stuff... to our fingers.

1) am building with wood glue Lepage's Express glue- not 5 minute epoxy... for once.
2) the wood sticks in the kit are on the heavy side.  Will use it on the outside corners and new lighter stuff on the cross braces .... just because it feels good.
3) Will change it to 4 channel by adding ailerons.  Hope to show you how to add barn door (not strip) ailerons to a 3 channel wing.  That means reducing the dihedral as well.  Note: A 3 channel airplane uses dihedral to turn.  A 3 channel plane without dihedral will not turn.
4) the wing hold-down will be a nylon screw and not rubber bands as shown on the plan.
5) it will have wheels... to make furrows during low passes.  After all, we fly off a farm.

Photo 87- cut the main longerons  and cross braces to length.  Two of the longerons have to be bent.  Did this by adding pins to the plans on the inside of the curve first before installing the wood strips.  Then bent the longerons around the pins and then added a few pins on the outside to maintain the bend.  Trick: when cutting the formers (vertical sticks), start with the most forward one first.  Why- if you cut wrong, you can always trim it for the second one closer to the tail because they get smaller.  If you start with the smallest one first, you have to scrap it.
Photo 88- Notice the top strip at the trailing edge of the wing is left long so the wood can bend and hold the bend.  The plans show it cut at the top of the upright at the training edge.  Also, the strip for the wing seat is left long at the leading edge of the wing just in case the pin splits the wood.
Photo 89- The cross braces have to be cut to points.  This is important to add strength.  Trick:To make the cut at the correct angle, lay the wood on top of the plans and make two cuts along the lines on the plans.  This forms a "X" as shown at the point of the XActo knife.  Cut along the X and you will have a point with perfect angles.
Photo 90- All the sticks in place.  Will let it dry overnight.  Note: I added the "X" brace behind the windows after the picture was taken.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Hi @Frank v B

I'm having trouble making out your Morse code with the pins.  Could you brighten the photos please.

Thanks!

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re: "I'm having trouble making out your Morse code with the pins."

Let me quote the RCAF*

" - - ..  - ... - .. -. .. -. . -.." 

RE: "Could you brighten the photos please."

Please use one of these.  See photo below.

Your best friend.

Frank

* Royal Canadian Air Farce.

[Frank v B]

Building the second fuselage side:
1) remove all the pins and sand the fuse top so there are no glue bumps.  See photo 91
2) lay waxed paper over the first fuselage side and build the second fuse side directly on top.  Make sure the two halves match.... regardless of what the plans say.  Make all mistakes symmetrically and it will be fine. Photo 93
3) let dry overnight. Photo 94.

[Andy Hoffer]

Building the second fuselage side:
1) remove all the pins and sand the fuse top so there are no glue bumps.  See photo 91
2) lay waxed paper over the first fuselage side and build the second fuse side directly on top.  Make sure the two halves match.... regardless of what the plans say.  Make all mistakes symmetrically and it will be fine. Photo 93
3) let dry overnight. Photo 94.

Much better @Frank v B, except for the sneeze in Photo 91.   

Andy

[Frank v B]

Taking a stab at the stab.

Always start at the trailing edge..... because it has to be straight for the hinges to work properly.

Photo 95- start by putting a pin at each end.  Never in the middle.  Then push a metal ruler up to the wood and push against the pins.  This will make the trailing edge absolutely straight.  Then put pins in the middle and along the way to hold everything straight.

Photo 95- shows the pins in place.  Andy please note....all matching red pins.

Photo 96- shows the completed stab so it can dry overnight.  Note that I leave the ends long so I can nicely contour the corners when everything is dry.  No need to waste time during the building.
Total elapsed time... 15 minutes.

Frank

[Andy Hoffer]

Taking a stab at the stab.

Always start at the trailing edge..... because it has to be straight for the hinges to work properly.

Photo 95- start by putting a pin at each end.  Never in the middle.  Then push a metal ruler up to the wood and push against the pins.  This will make the trailing edge absolutely straight.  Then put pins in the middle and along the way to hold everything straight.

Photo 95- shows the pins in place. Andy please note....all matching red pins.

Photo 96- shows the completed stab so it can dry overnight.  Note that I leave the ends long so I can nicely contour the corners when everything is dry.  No need to waste time during the building.
Total elapsed time... 15 minutes.

Frank

Hi @Frank v B,

Much, much better!  But isn't the glue supposed to go on the wood instead of the work bench?? 

Andy

[Frank v B]

Andy,

re: "But isn't the glue supposed to go on the wood instead of the work bench??  "


Lemme splain.  That is not glue.  This is an old person's solution to a problem.  Just cover up a problem with a new surface.

The damaged area you circled is the old sheet of drywall used as a building board.  It was the edge of the original drywall building surface...after 15 years of abuse.  The new surface is drywall taped on top of an Ikea door and is the new building surface.  It was for the RedEagle build class so I could build during the week and bring the board to the class.  The RedEagle was finished but the board stayed.  It nicely covered the old beaten up surface.  The edge you circled is butchered original drywall.
This is just like old people when they redecorate a house.  Three layers of paint and two layers of wallpaper...wallpaper to hold everything together.  I am building on the 3rd surface.  Two to go. 

I am not changing it until it looks like the back of my RepairMobile.

Frank