CL-415 group-build thread

electroflyer · November 25, 2018, 05:24:56 PM

Thanks Rob!

Michael · November 25, 2018, 06:07:55 PM

Tip floats done. These will be smoothed, fiber-glassed, and painted.

Michael · November 25, 2018, 06:08:40 PM

Nacelle formers assembled.

Be careful to glue the correct tops to the correct bottoms.

Michael · November 25, 2018, 06:13:47 PM

There are no instructions on how to build the nacelles (or anything else for that matter), so after careful observation and consideration, I decided that the nacelle sides need to be made first, onto which the structure will be built.

I extended the former locations on the plans with a ballpoint pen, in order to transfer them onto the sides, as well as outline the inner plywood doubler location.

Once done, I made 3 other sides, and marked them similarly, but 2 right sided and 2 left sided.

Michael · November 25, 2018, 06:16:41 PM

The plans simply say that the nacelles will slide onto the wing between specific rib locations.

I didn't want to weaken the wing structure, so I cut appropriate slots into the nacelle sides so that they fit and slide down onto the wing, preserving the wing spars.

Tested for fit.

octagon · November 25, 2018, 06:28:06 PM

Glenn, looks great. I started on the wing this afternoon. After much consideration I have decided to do flaps and also to sheet the entire plane, and then fiberglass is with 1 oz cloth and epoxy resin. Because the wing, as on the plans, is sheeted from the leading edge to the main spar, and then covered in monocote, the "middle" section of the ribs needed to be trimmed 1/16 both top and bottom in order to allow full sheeting front to back. It is a nice touch that the ribs have round holes in them that accommodated a couple of pieces of brass tubing. I then drew a line 1/16 of an inch below the existing top of the rib and simply sanded them all down together. Worked well. Glenn, how are you going to hinge your flaps? Do you think something like the plans use for the aileron hinge would work well for the flaps. Seems to me it would be a simple solution to use pin hinges near the upper surface of the flap/wing.

octagon · November 25, 2018, 06:32:30 PM

Quote from: Michael on November 25, 2018, 06:13:47 PM
There are no instructions on how to build the nacelles (or anything else for that matter), so after careful observation and consideration, I decided that the nacelle sides need to be made first, onto which the structure will be built.

I extended the former locations on the plans with a ballpoint pen, in order to transfer them onto the sides, as well as outline the inner plywood doubler location.

Once done, I made 3 other sides, and marked them similarly, but 2 right sided and 2 left sided.

Thanks Michael. I have been stewing about those nacelles. Your plan makes a lot of sense. Make sure to check the cowling for proper fit before you finish the whole nacelle.

Michael · November 25, 2018, 07:08:03 PM

I didn't cut down my ribs for the center sheeting section. I should have. I'll figure out what to do when I get to that step.

piker · November 26, 2018, 10:45:53 AM

I just wanna say how much I'm enjoying following along with you guys. It's like balsa porn!

All three builds look beautiful!

Robert

Michael · November 26, 2018, 08:29:08 PM

As I am getting ready to build the nacelles, I am noticing more differences between the plans, the parts, and how it will be constructed.

My nacelles sides were a bit to big, so I made them a little smaller.
The plans call for 3/8" triangle stock, which I bought and will use, but I think 1/2" would have been better.

I test fit, filed, sanded and adjusted the nacelle sides until they fit nicely on the wing. I also cut away wood from these sides (and the plywood duoblers) so electrical wiring will pass through, lining up with the holes in the ribs.

I will also have to trim the formers a bit thinner. so the finished (and covered) nacelles will fit between the appropriate ribs.

I notice the plans show the plywood motor mount between the plywood doublers that protrude forward of former 1, but the laser cut piece is too big (as if to be mounted on the front edges of the doublers. I'll leave that for later, after the nacelles are further under construction.

There is a lot of fidgeting and adjusting; more than I thought.
Note to everyone: If you want to fly a Waterbomber, it is a respectable option to buy a stryrofoam ARF.

octagon · November 26, 2018, 09:45:40 PM

Good Job Michael.Thanks for the detail and the photos of how you built your nacelles. I started the wing tonight and as I have decided to sheet the entire thing, I had to cut 1/16 off the top and bottom of the "middle" ribs. I did that by joining them with brass pipe and clamps and drawing a 1/16 line on the side of the outside rib and then sanding them all down at once. Because if I put a sheet of 1/16th down I would not be able to see the rib locations I cut strips of balsa to lift the ribs off the building board. I used 1/8th plywood for the main spar and next I will cut and fit the rear main spar, which is also 1/8 ply. I plan to build flaps and am pondering how to hinge them. I quite like this kit as it make me improvise and figure out ways to do things different from the plans.

bweaver · November 27, 2018, 07:38:48 AM

I am thoroughly enjoying this build.

It is full of great advice - like how to evenly reduce the size of each rib quickly and efficiently so that the wings can be skinned and the best advice to people with more than two thumbs - 'consider buying an ARF if you wish to fly a Waterbomer' which is advice I personally would take to heart.

Carry on guys, you are doing an impressive job. I can see you love doing this and the results will prove it.

electroflyer · November 27, 2018, 08:41:00 AM

Some really fine work here!
Michael, what wood thickness did you use for the Nacelles? I plan on using 1/8th so that I have strength and the ability to sand and round it off slightly.
Rob, that 1/8 ply spar will definitely have a lot of strength. Where did you purchase the proper length or did you rip it yourself?
My flap hinges will be similar to what is shown on the drawings. Have not decided what material to use yet. May be plywood painted and sealed.
Glenn

Michael · November 27, 2018, 09:29:28 AM

I'm using 1/16th sheet.

I am building my model as a large 'park-flyer', to be as light as reasonably possible, to fly in a scale and slow manner.

I'm aiming for a flight style like my Albatross.

octagon · November 27, 2018, 09:35:58 AM

I bought a sheet of 48 X12 X1/8th aircraft grade ply. Because my table saw was destroyed in the fire a couple of years ago, I had Ron at Pinnacle rip it for me. I joined the 2- 48 inch spars in the centre area, and they siamesed the joint with another piece of the extra length of spar from the end of the wing. Next step will be to add the rear spar and then build boxes for the servos for the ailerons and flaps. after that I will install the front part of the ribs and then sheet the entire wing with 1/16 before fiberglassing with 1 oz cloth and finishing resin. By the way guys, I bought some stuff the US Army uses to stop water leakage and corrosion. It is a spray on product, and it completely waterproofs things. There is a You Tube video of them spraying a little helicopter and then putting the thing in and aquarium. They start it up underwater and it "flies" to the top of the water and then takes to the air. I am going to spray my servos with it and you guys are welcome to use my spray can to do the same if you feel you want to.